sixgear

I have been posting in a couple of threads, Porus Block and LDK Swap List. I started having temp problems when I was getting coolant in my oil, possible because I was using so much coolant out of my overflow tank and possibly getting air in the system. This afternoon I got my new LDK running and let it run a couple of times till it reached 225 then I would shut it off. I did this with the cap off hoping any trapped air could escape. My LNF use to run between 194 and 198 so I am hoping its only air in my sytem.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Did the fans come on at all?

I found that squeezing the upper rad hose got a lot of the air out of the system if I squeezed quick enough.

sixgear

Fans came on around 200*

exninja

iTrader: (1)

225 is pretty toasty. Air bubble or tstat stuck closed seem the likely culprits. Air bubble being first. The new engine came with a new tstat, correct?

Sl0wbaltSS

I run 190-198

QuickSilver_SS

When i changed my tstat and coolant. I had a hell of a time getting the air out. My car was running a lot hotter then normal ad well. Like also mentioned above. I had to squeize the rad hoses alot. As fast as i could. As well i had to have a second person in the car holding the car at 2500 rpm for a few minutes will i squeized the hoses with the cap off as well. It seemed to work for me. Its what my local chevy dealer told me to do after i couldnt get the air out in almost a week !

sixgear

Yes it came with a new Stat, I will try squeezing on the radiator hose and see if that helps.

sixgear

I may have my coolant problem fixed, I removed the return line from coolant tank and plugged fitting on tank, then I pressurized my system and forced coolant and I guess air through the return line into a bowl, so far temp has only gotten to 194.

Grave

iTrader: (7)

Did you completely fill the block and radiator before you started it?

sixgear

I don't think there is an absolute way to completely fill the radiator and block by just pouring it in the radiator hose and coolant tank, I did the best I could.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

For future reference, I like to drill a tiny hole in the T-stat, it will allow the system to self-bleed and not air-lock and it doesn't adversely affect anything after that. On cars like these where bleeding is a pain, it makes it much easier. Just fill it and go.

southal cobalt

iTrader: (3)

was it a long block with a tstat already installed, or did you use your stocker? i know the cruze and sonic turbos run about that temperature for efficiency purposes. robs performance a bit, but helps mileage. 220-225 is not overheating by any means.

but if youre using a stock tstat and its a bleeding issue, id recommend what joe said ^

sixgear

Long block with stat pre-installed and drilling the hole sounds like a good idea

Grave

iTrader: (7)

You can pour coolant directly into the cylinder head if you take off the upper radiator hose. You should be able to get nearly a gallon in. Fill there, then the radiator and recovery tank. The coolant level should only drop about an inch or less after the first drive, then you can top it off and it's good to go. I've done that a few times and have had good luck.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Very true, if filled properly like this you get coolant sitting on the t-stat which lets it open. If there's air around it it usually won't open until the engine is too hot.

Stock fan turn-on without a/c is 227+ degrees, so that's not a problem. With the A/C running the fan should be on all the time and if you're tuned, most tuners lower the fan turn-on to around 200* or so.

LNFTX

this is what i did when i replaced my radiator
i was worried with some of the stories of this car being har to get air out of but i think getting that extra gallon or so in at the top makes a huge difference
it was a little messy as some antifreeze will be spilled but worth it
i was surprised it was so easy actually it was much more of a pain to dismount the intercooler just to get to the damn drain

QuickSilver_SS

How big of a hole are you guys drilling in the tstat? Just an 1/8th or a 1/16 ? And how many holes ? Just one or two ? And does the placement of the holes matter at all ?

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

I should probably replace my coolant soon

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Usually smaller than 1/16, one and towards the top of the tstat, air rises so you want to get as much out as you can

forced induction ss

If you have coolant in the oil then you have a blown head gasket. Dose it build pressure after a few minutes running.

sixgear

Sounds like you are unfamiliar with the porus block issues the Turbo cars have, I had no pressure in my coolant system, did compression test, leak down test, car ran fine no missing, no steam, and after countless threads with the same problem and people and dealerships replacing heads and head gaskets to no avail. Cracked block/Porus block.

forced induction ss

Only Time I've ever seen any oil look like a milk shake is because of a blown head gasket. In any n/a or turbo

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Well heres a new one for you then, like he said a lot of people have had head gaskets replaced and it didn't fix the issue. Its related to a reduction in casting of the coolant passages combined with the styrofoam loss casting, pretty much only effects the LNF and GM has updated the block to a sand cast and increased metal between the passages and the internal engine.

sixgear

I think we may have caused someone to start worrying.

forced induction ss

My car runs 176 to 183 no need for worries. I should have read the whole post