Front and rear brake informational thread
03-29-2010, 06:55 PM
#77
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Yeah, I'm thinking one of the keys the kit I bought came with was supposed to fit the pistons but for whatever reason the "teeth" won't fit in - they're too fat. I'll probably just end up grinding the teeth down so it'll fit.
10-21-2010, 12:09 PM
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I didnt read all of the posts, but I have the part number for the front pads from brembo and he gave me a gm part number.... Also I have brembos's how to guide for pad replacement but it is in a pdf file...sorry if this old news or not helpful....
Nic:
Unfortunately Brembo does not offer a rear braking system the Cobalt SS.
Front pad kit is GM 25808929, available from your local Chevrolet dealer.
See attached pad replacement procedure.
Regards,
Brembo - Brake systems
Nic:
Unfortunately Brembo does not offer a rear braking system the Cobalt SS.
Front pad kit is GM 25808929, available from your local Chevrolet dealer.
See attached pad replacement procedure.
Regards,
Brembo - Brake systems
Last edited by Robb M.; 11-19-2010 at 04:04 PM.
11-21-2010, 05:03 PM
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For the piston tool issue...I just used two allen wrenches..stick them in the holes...cross them up so they make an X and twist...simple...might not work after a few years and grime but it was pretty effortless at 20K miles
01-29-2011, 09:28 AM
#84
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Wagner (Federal Mogul) part numbers:
Rotors
Front: BD180235 *Lists Cobalt, HHR, and E-350 Super Duty as applications for this part number.
Rear: BD180305 *Cobalt application only.
Brake Pads
Front: MX1379 (ThermoQuiet); ZX1379 (QuickStop) *Cobalt and HHR applications.
Rear: PD1095 (ThermoQuiet); ZD1095 (QuickStop) *Lists Cobalt, Solstice, Sky, and 9-3 for the rear pad applications.
Welcome to the Federal-Mogul eCatalog Resource Center
Rotors
Front: BD180235 *Lists Cobalt, HHR, and E-350 Super Duty as applications for this part number.
Rear: BD180305 *Cobalt application only.
Brake Pads
Front: MX1379 (ThermoQuiet); ZX1379 (QuickStop) *Cobalt and HHR applications.
Rear: PD1095 (ThermoQuiet); ZD1095 (QuickStop) *Lists Cobalt, Solstice, Sky, and 9-3 for the rear pad applications.
Welcome to the Federal-Mogul eCatalog Resource Center
Last edited by ttypecamaro; 01-29-2011 at 11:05 AM. Reason: typo
01-29-2011, 06:52 PM
#86
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Of course, after 20,000 mi, I am running into the issue now. I am on Tirerack looking at some HAWK HPS Street pads, but I am also looking for new rotors as well. They have the Power Slot Power Alloy rotors listed, Cryo treated is also there. Anyone try the Power Slot Power Alloy rotors?
Also, do the pads and rotors just need to be fixed or do I need to replace the whole caliper?
Thanks
Also, do the pads and rotors just need to be fixed or do I need to replace the whole caliper?
Thanks
01-31-2011, 08:27 PM
#87
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Wagner (Federal Mogul) part numbers:
Brake Pads
Front: MX1379 (ThermoQuiet); ZX1379 (QuickStop) *Cobalt and HHR applications.
Rear: PD1095 ZD1095 (QuickStop) *Lists Cobalt, Solstice, Sky, and 9-3 for the rear pad applications.
Welcome to the Federal-Mogul eCatalog Resource Center
Brake Pads
Front: MX1379 (ThermoQuiet); ZX1379 (QuickStop) *Cobalt and HHR applications.
Rear: PD1095 ZD1095 (QuickStop) *Lists Cobalt, Solstice, Sky, and 9-3 for the rear pad applications.
Welcome to the Federal-Mogul eCatalog Resource Center
I would recommend the Wagner Thermoquiet CERAMICS QC1095A for the rears..I have them on and they perform very well..are listed as a SAAB application, but are exactly the same as the PD1095s which are ORGANIC pads.
Wagner Fronts:
The MX1379s are semi metallic. They don't offer a ceramic front, but I got the Power Stop ceramics instead 16-1379. Haven't put those on yet, but I will. I think they're the only ceramics available for the fronts now.
Link Power Stop Front Ceramic Pads:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/5521892-post6.html
Last edited by ronn; 01-31-2011 at 08:41 PM.
03-07-2011, 10:25 PM
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I thought I'd ask my question here rather than start a new thread, but if I don't get a response I may just start one.
I have under 10,000 miles on my car and I'm wondering if I should get hawk pads and call it a day. If not, I'll chew these rotors up with my stock pads and buy new rotors and hawk pads. Also when I'm getting pads, do I get HPS or HP+ or Ceramic pads
Now I know most will say, "get R1 Concepts", but are Power Slots any good or the Genuine Saab slotted rotors any good?
I don't like the look of drilled or dimpled so I just want slotted.
Thanks
I have under 10,000 miles on my car and I'm wondering if I should get hawk pads and call it a day. If not, I'll chew these rotors up with my stock pads and buy new rotors and hawk pads. Also when I'm getting pads, do I get HPS or HP+ or Ceramic pads
Now I know most will say, "get R1 Concepts", but are Power Slots any good or the Genuine Saab slotted rotors any good?
I don't like the look of drilled or dimpled so I just want slotted.
Thanks
03-29-2011, 03:33 PM
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So it's time for some new rotors for me and it seems as though there are a lot more options now days. What are the thoughts of the guys that auto-x/track & DD their cars for rotors:
For Blank Rotors we have:
Stock GM Rotors
Power Slot (Blank)
F: Powerslot Front OEM Replacement Rotors 08 Cobalt SS - Brakes
R: Powerslot Rear OEM Replacement Rotors 2009-2010 Cobalt SS - Brakes
Centric
F/R: Centric Premium Rotor
Brake Performance
F: BRP-62116 Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
R: BRP-62079 Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
R1 Concepts
Blanks?
Slotted Rotors:
Brake Performance
F: SB-62116 Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
R: SB-62079 Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
Genuine Saab
F: GenuineSaab.com
R: GenuineSaab.com
R1 Concepts
Slotted?
I didn't mention Cross Drilled rotors as personally I don't like them, but out of the above what would the guys that really drive their SS/TC's recommend? I'm seriously thinking about going slotted as these brakes really perform poorly in the wet for the first few split seconds.
For Blank Rotors we have:
Stock GM Rotors
Power Slot (Blank)
F: Powerslot Front OEM Replacement Rotors 08 Cobalt SS - Brakes
R: Powerslot Rear OEM Replacement Rotors 2009-2010 Cobalt SS - Brakes
Centric
F/R: Centric Premium Rotor
Brake Performance
F: BRP-62116 Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
R: BRP-62079 Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
R1 Concepts
Blanks?
Slotted Rotors:
Brake Performance
F: SB-62116 Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
R: SB-62079 Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
Genuine Saab
F: GenuineSaab.com
R: GenuineSaab.com
R1 Concepts
Slotted?
I didn't mention Cross Drilled rotors as personally I don't like them, but out of the above what would the guys that really drive their SS/TC's recommend? I'm seriously thinking about going slotted as these brakes really perform poorly in the wet for the first few split seconds.
03-29-2011, 04:01 PM
#91
FYI: R1Concepts does blank, slotted, drilled, dimpled, or any combination of slotted/drilled/dimpled, so you can pretty much put them as an option for any category I'd imagine. You call and tell them what you want, and they go make them.
I've never heard of the part number(s) though. Being that they're made to order, they may not really have one besides for maybe the blank rotor.
I've never heard of the part number(s) though. Being that they're made to order, they may not really have one besides for maybe the blank rotor.
03-29-2011, 04:13 PM
#92
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FYI: R1Concepts does blank, slotted, drilled, dimpled, or any combination of slotted/drilled/dimpled, so you can pretty much put them as an option for any category I'd imagine. You call and tell them what you want, and they go make them.
I've never heard of the part number(s) though. Being that they're made to order, they may not really have one besides for maybe the blank rotor.
I've never heard of the part number(s) though. Being that they're made to order, they may not really have one besides for maybe the blank rotor.
03-29-2011, 04:37 PM
#93
I wouldn't recommend the stockers anyway. They're too soft IMO.
The backs got all messed up due to the stock brake pads.
The fronts didn't have enough life left after the first pad change to be able to use them again. We're talking like having trouble getting the pads removed because they wouldn't slide off due to the deep pad-width valley they had made in the rotor. lol
So far the R1s have served me well. I've got R1s (slotted) with HPS all around. It does feel different at first. No scoring on the back anymore, and the fronts seem to be doing okay too. Will have to wait to report wear life.
The backs got all messed up due to the stock brake pads.
The fronts didn't have enough life left after the first pad change to be able to use them again. We're talking like having trouble getting the pads removed because they wouldn't slide off due to the deep pad-width valley they had made in the rotor. lol
So far the R1s have served me well. I've got R1s (slotted) with HPS all around. It does feel different at first. No scoring on the back anymore, and the fronts seem to be doing okay too. Will have to wait to report wear life.
03-29-2011, 04:48 PM
#94
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I wouldn't recommend the stockers anyway. They're too soft IMO.
The backs got all messed up due to the stock brake pads.
The fronts didn't have enough life left after the first pad change to be able to use them again. We're talking like having trouble getting the pads removed because they wouldn't slide off due to the deep pad-width valley they had made in the rotor. lol
So far the R1s have served me well. I've got R1s (slotted) with HPS all around. It does feel different at first. No scoring on the back anymore, and the fronts seem to be doing okay too. Will have to wait to report wear life.
The backs got all messed up due to the stock brake pads.
The fronts didn't have enough life left after the first pad change to be able to use them again. We're talking like having trouble getting the pads removed because they wouldn't slide off due to the deep pad-width valley they had made in the rotor. lol
So far the R1s have served me well. I've got R1s (slotted) with HPS all around. It does feel different at first. No scoring on the back anymore, and the fronts seem to be doing okay too. Will have to wait to report wear life.
04-06-2011, 03:45 AM
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I wouldn't recommend the stockers anyway. They're too soft IMO.
The backs got all messed up due to the stock brake pads.
The fronts didn't have enough life left after the first pad change to be able to use them again. We're talking like having trouble getting the pads removed because they wouldn't slide off due to the deep pad-width valley they had made in the rotor. lol
So far the R1s have served me well. I've got R1s (slotted) with HPS all around. It does feel different at first. No scoring on the back anymore, and the fronts seem to be doing okay too. Will have to wait to report wear life.
The backs got all messed up due to the stock brake pads.
The fronts didn't have enough life left after the first pad change to be able to use them again. We're talking like having trouble getting the pads removed because they wouldn't slide off due to the deep pad-width valley they had made in the rotor. lol
So far the R1s have served me well. I've got R1s (slotted) with HPS all around. It does feel different at first. No scoring on the back anymore, and the fronts seem to be doing okay too. Will have to wait to report wear life.
I'm pretty sure R1 uses Centric (Stop Tech) Premium Rotors. I have them (Centric) on the rear (Plain) and will get the Fronts (Plain) soon. Rock Auto is cheaper ($105 Pair Shipped) than Tire Rack, but it's listed in their cataloge under the 07 SS in error. PN is 120.62116. They are 12.4".
Here..I found this:
R1 Concepts/Stoptech rotors = same (Centric blanks) who was recently bought out by Stoptech i think.
Both companies use same exact blanks, then drill/slot in an almost identical process. Both have chamfered (if spelled right) holes if get drilled, only R1 uses diamond slots and Stoptech rounded ones. (Curve at end of slots).
Both are Zinc plated to prevent rust, and both (if premium R1's) come with painted hats.
MY350Z.COM Forums - View Single Post - stoptech vs r1concepts (rotors)
Last edited by ronn; 04-06-2011 at 04:10 AM.
05-12-2011, 01:05 AM
#96
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Pricey Brake Pads
Recently I had my 2006 SS serviced....at 21,000 miles.
The dealer replaced front brake pads and machined the front rotors. He charged me $200.00 for a set of new front pads. I have stock (non-Brembo) brakes.
$200.00 seems a tad expensive to me for a set of brake pads.
Is thus price normal?
The dealer replaced front brake pads and machined the front rotors. He charged me $200.00 for a set of new front pads. I have stock (non-Brembo) brakes.
$200.00 seems a tad expensive to me for a set of brake pads.
Is thus price normal?
05-19-2011, 07:46 PM
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Other than CED.....and dealerships....eBay and the like.... Where else can I find the brembro calipers and hardware...I have an 06 ss/sc with powerslot rotors....and aftermarket rims...
06-19-2011, 04:06 PM
#98
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man i spent a whole bunch of time researching rear rotors and went ahead and end up buying them from CED. I wish i would have found this before then i would have bought them from Modern Performance. But o well i guess, learning lesson for me. From what i read these rotors were a national hold back. Do you think i will have any prob if i ordered them from CED?
07-04-2011, 04:14 AM
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Hey guys just bought a 2009 SS coupe and drove it for about 3000 miles. It has a total of 20000 miles and well the rears are gone to **** now.
My question is will changing the disks and pads solve the issue or is the problem coming from the caliper? Dont wanna spendmoney on nice r1's and hawks only to have them go bad. I searched and didnt find a direct answer on this.
My question is will changing the disks and pads solve the issue or is the problem coming from the caliper? Dont wanna spendmoney on nice r1's and hawks only to have them go bad. I searched and didnt find a direct answer on this.
07-04-2011, 04:31 PM
#100
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Hey guys just bought a 2009 SS coupe and drove it for about 3000 miles. It has a total of 20000 miles and well the rears are gone to **** now.
My question is will changing the disks and pads solve the issue or is the problem coming from the caliper? Dont wanna spendmoney on nice r1's and hawks only to have them go bad. I searched and didnt find a direct answer on this.
My question is will changing the disks and pads solve the issue or is the problem coming from the caliper? Dont wanna spendmoney on nice r1's and hawks only to have them go bad. I searched and didnt find a direct answer on this.