ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Put the car in 4th and roll it to close the valves for the port you're working on.

califcarm

Similar case for me.

Mine seems to idle reasonably well even when cold, hardly a stumble and not "that" rough. Seems perfect when warm.

I am sure there is a few HP loss when they get dirty and start to restrict airflow some, but the car runs like a BOH still, so I have not seen it worth my time until something gets more affected. At 149,300 miles now (HP tuned).

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

The only real reference we have is an Audi that dynoed before and after. Gained 55hp and 25 torque on a 350 HP engine. I would think 10-20 HP depending on age is definitely possible. The 1-2mpg increase is enough for me to do it every 3 years. First time I did it I used walnut blasting. Second time I used GM Top end cleaner only and let it soak for an hour. I much prefer the soaking method. Half the time half the work. Similar results. I just buy a good cleaning cut and go to town

exninja

iTrader: (1)

They are not all fully closed at once, and it is safe to rotate by hand. You can do three at once.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

BYT recommended mopar combustion cleaner. Works the same as seafoam top engine cleaner. Spray into the vacuum line on the intake mani and let it soak with the car off for 10 mins. I'm buying some tomorrow to try it out. He said it should smoke a good bit after the 10 mins of soaking.

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

I personally wouldn't do that. Major reason is that the oil crud on the valve is rock solid. You would think soaking it would dissolve it into liquid again. It doesn't. It flakes off in hard chunks. I have seen pictures of cylinder walls that get scored by people that clean their engine this way. It gets caught on the rings and eats up the cylinder wall which could lose you some compression.

You are much better off to remove the residue and vacuum/pick it out than ever let it enter the cylinder. Especially when you spray and at least one of your cylinders is open.

Don't be lazy. This job can be done for $100 including beer

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

I ran seafoam top engine cleaner through the center of the intake manifold and either I did it wrong or they're not dirty cause there was hardly any smoke. Even let it set for 15 minutes.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

I let mine soak overnight and used brushes. Probably didn't get it as clean as walnut shells would have but it did make a huge difference in idle and responsiveness.

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

oh there should be smoke lol. Smokes coming from the seafoam not the filth your trying to clean

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

So what did i do wrong lol

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

You didn't do anything wrong. Several times when I did it I only got a few puffs of smoke.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

So either they're clean or there's so much stuff caked on seafoam didn't do much

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Or the likely difference, the wideband pulled enough fuel from the injectors that it wasn't running pig rich.

Seafoam doesn't do much in the short term, the stuff crc makes for direct injection makes a bit of a difference, but thats only if there isn't a thick layer caked on already. Buy a cheap borescope and pull the brake booster line and take a look.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

Borrowing a borescope tonight. Was going to go through the throttle body but the brake booster is a better idea 💡

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

You take the brake booster hose off, then unscrew the nipple for that hose and you will have a big enough hole for a borescope through the manifold. Much easier than pulling the throttle body.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

I was just going to take the lcp off and rotate the flap

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

I have never had a lot of luck/fun getting the pipe off. Never enough room to work my fat hands in there.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

rotating an electric throttle body's blade is a good way to make you have to buy a new one. some people get away with it with no issue, others end up buying a new throttle body.

Going through the brake booster nipple you'll have a straight (damn near) path to the intake valve runner

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

if you rotate the blade with the harness unhooked, it should be fine. That has been my experience, with the three different throttle bodies i've had.

the issue is when you rotate it with power

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I rotated a 2.2tb disconnected and my old car wanted none of it

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

I rotated it unpowered before when I cleaned it two weeks ago and it was fine.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Seafoam isn't stout enough to cut the carbon buildup without letting it just soak around the valves. You may wash the oil off the valves but it won't cut the baked on crap off.

T-Man

iTrader: (3)

Pull the IM off yourself and clean it by hand. It's easy. Time consuming but easy.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

Using what cleaners? Don't want to ram carb cleaner in there just to find out it wasn't the right one to use lol. Probably going to end up going this route. It's the most cost effective and I can do it on a weekend. Now to protect oil from getting back in? What kinda catch cans do you recommend? Not using powells system solely because it costs a small fortune.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Not sure if carb cleaner will eat through it. Powells costs what it does because it works and is quality parts. Other baffled systems may help but they're not going to remove the oil as well.