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Light Throttle Stumbling

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Old 09-07-2012, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by lockdownlegend
i know everyone says search but could you list the part number for the sensors?
To be clear, these are electronically controlled valves, not sensors. The cam position sensors are mounted in a different location and have a different part number.

Intake solenoid: 12646783
Exhaust solenoid: 12646784
Old 09-07-2012, 07:40 PM
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Are they the two sensors that go into the valve cover almost side by side pointing straight up?
Old 09-08-2012, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by QuickSilver_SS
Are they the two sensors that go into the valve cover almost side by side pointing straight up?
No, that's these valves. The cam sensors are on the driver side end.
Old 09-08-2012, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Stamina
No, that's these valves. The cam sensors are on the driver side end.
Okay, so you replaced the two parts at the end of the cams on the side of the head. I miss read and thought you meant you replaced the two up top that point straight up side by side.
Old 09-09-2012, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by QuickSilver_SS
Okay, so you replaced the two parts at the end of the cams on the side of the head. I miss read and thought you meant you replaced the two up top that point straight up side by side.
No, you had it correct originally. As stated, I replaced the solenoids, which are electronically controlled valves. I never said anything about replacing sensors, so I don't know why people keep bringing up sensors. These solenoids are located together on the top of the head, on the passenger side.

People kept bringing up sensors or perhaps confusing them with sensors. These are not sensors. These solenoids control the oil flow from the head to the phasers. If people are wanting to know where the cam sensors are located for some reason though, they are on the driver side of the head, near each cam end.
Old 09-20-2012, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DPveritasGold
I'm having major issues with this. My car will stumble so bad sometimes that I can press the throttle pretty hard and it will just keep stumbling and not accelerate.

I did a boost leak test last weekend to 25 psi and I couldn't hear any sort of hissing except coming from that black hose going to the intake manifold that's about 3/4" in diameter.

I'm throwing P0101, P0106, and P0236 codes which are for the MAF and both TMAP sensors.

Is it possible this is occuring because of the fuel filter 'sock' needing to be changed? I still don't know how you're actually supposed to change it though. If I knew I would totally change it.
THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING TO ME RANDOMLY FOR MONTHS NOW, but I do not get any codes..I was thinking it was a fuel issue as well.
Old 09-21-2012, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by AARON-SS-TC
THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING TO ME RANDOMLY FOR MONTHS NOW, but I do not get any codes..I was thinking it was a fuel issue as well.
He ended up selling his car.
Old 10-22-2012, 06:21 PM
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I just got a P0011 Code pulled today that said: Camshaft Position/Timing Over Advanced, My Tuner says that thier the Solenoids that you speak of(I think lol), The Symptoms are: Cold Start Stumbling/Hard Starting when Cold, Running Crappy, Just seems like something is off. Hopefully these Solenoids fix the issue im having .
Old 10-22-2012, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Sully20
I just got a P0011 Code pulled today that said: Camshaft Position/Timing Over Advanced, My Tuner says that thier the Solenoids that you speak of(I think lol), The Symptoms are: Cold Start Stumbling/Hard Starting when Cold, Running Crappy, Just seems like something is off. Hopefully these Solenoids fix the issue im having .
Yeah, a few of those symptoms sound similar to what I was having happen. If those don't fix it then you may have an issue with the physical phaser hub(s) being broken on the inside.
Old 10-26-2012, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by spiketc2
same thing that's happening to my '08 tc(stage2) right now, don't now what to do...gone to the dealership few times,change the fuel injector, sensors..they can't seem to pin point the problem..now it's worse, stalled me on second gear..doing this crazy sound like "toooododododo",,scary..need help?
mine does this as well, and only from 1-2nd or 2-3rd gear...
Old 10-29-2012, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Stamina
Yeah, a few of those symptoms sound similar to what I was having happen. If those don't fix it then you may have an issue with the physical phaser hub(s) being broken on the inside.
Yeah well I just got my car back from the dealership and they replaced the Intake side Camshaft Solenoids under my powertrain warranty, So lets see if that cures the symptoms that I was having. I'll keep you guys updated!
Old 10-29-2012, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Sully20
I just got a P0011 Code pulled today that said: Camshaft Position/Timing Over Advanced, My Tuner says that thier the Solenoids that you speak of(I think lol), The Symptoms are: Cold Start Stumbling/Hard Starting when Cold, Running Crappy, Just seems like something is off. Hopefully these Solenoids fix the issue im having .
Your tuner told you huh?
Old 10-29-2012, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Stamina
To be clear, these are electronically controlled valves, not sensors. The cam position sensors are mounted in a different location and have a different part number.

Intake solenoid: 12646783
Exhaust solenoid: 12646784
Do you have to remove the valve cover to change these solenoids out?
Old 10-29-2012, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 09CobaltSS1
Your tuner told you huh?
Yep, I count YOU as my Tuner too.....Even though we havent met yet, I consider you more of my Tuner than my actual Tuner, If that makes sense, lol. We spend more time talking then I do with my actual Tuner, So its like your Both my Tuner but I consider you as my Go to guy for any issue/questions, Just wish you lived closer to me thats all and I would use you and only you.

Last edited by Sully20; 10-29-2012 at 09:19 PM.
Old 10-29-2012, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by AngelTiger82
Do you have to remove the valve cover to change these solenoids out?
Nope.. They're right smack dab on the very top of the engine right near the cylinder #1 coil pack. SUPER easy job. 2 10mm bolts (1 per solenoid), a connector on each valve (solenoid) and they just pop out.

Originally Posted by Sully20
Yep, I count YOU as my Tuner too.....Even though we havent met yet, I consider you more of my Tuner than my actual Tuner, If that makes sense, lol. We spend more time talking then I do with my actual Tuner, So its like your Both my Tuner but I consider you as my Go to guy for any issue/questions, Just wish you lived closer to me thats all and I would use you and only you.
lol.... yeah? So does that mean i get half of Nick's cut then?


I keed I keed
Old 10-29-2012, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Sully20
Yep, I count YOU as my Tuner too.....Even though we havent met yet, I consider you more of my Tuner than my actual Tuner, If that makes sense, lol. We spend more time talking then I do with my actual Tuner, So its like your Both my Tuner but I consider you as my Go to guy for any issue/questions, Just wish you lived closer to me thats all and I would use you and only you.
Just go ahead and set the status to "It's Complicated".
Old 10-30-2012, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Sully20
Yeah well I just got my car back from the dealership and they replaced the Intake side Camshaft Solenoids under my powertrain warranty, So lets see if that cures the symptoms that I was having. I'll keep you guys updated!
Hopefully that did the trick, Sully20! I'm available to follow up on this if need be - just send a private message with more information (your contact info, the last 8 of your VIN, etc).

Sarah, GM Customer Service
Old 10-31-2012, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Stamina
Just go ahead and set the status to "It's Complicated".
, It is Complicated, John's one of the Best Tuners out there and he has spent a lot of his spare time talking to me and helping me through issue after issue. He genuinley cares and isnt just concerned about taking your money. Shi* I havent given him a dime and he's spent more time talking with me and helping me out then most Tuners would, Thats Troof lol. Thanks for all your help brotha!
Old 12-15-2013, 08:56 PM
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Just an update on this for anybody who's had this happen or perhaps enjoys puzzles... lol

The stumble is still happening only at cruise throttle. It idles, decelerates, and accelerates perfect.

The car has:
- New crank sensor
- New cam position sensors
- New phaser solenoids (the ones in the head, not the phaser hubs themselves)
- New upstream/wideband O2 sensor
- New injectors/rail/pressure sensor
- Cleaned MAF and MAPs
- New stock/gapped spark plugs
- Heck... a whole new six speed transmission, clutch, flywheel, and axle since last time... lol

No misfires or knock, does it on both the Trifecta flash and stock flash, and even with the MAF disconnected (ruled out MAF issue or intake issue). The spark advance fluctuates when the stumble is occurring. Checked the throttle pedal position sensor, throttle position sensor, cam phasing, fuel pressure, coil packs, etc. There appears to be no other cause-effect signs on logs I've done for myself or for Trifecta.

It only does it at part throttle, and seems to do it less or not as bad when the car's heavy (like more people in the car and/or full tank of gas), and more when the car's lighter (just me and/or a light tank of gas).

This means it's probably not airflow metering related, not fueling related, not spark related, not tune related, not sensor electrical related,... what else is there it could be that's causing this? At this point it's almost like it could be suspension related due to the weight and throttle things changing it, and the only suspension thing I can think I changed around the general time this started popping up was going to the Powell CABs. Could it be that this is a case of the ECU being too smart for its own good, picking up on the car maybe moving around in the solid/stiffer CABs, and trying to quickly adjust spark advance?

I'm stumped. I feel like I've ruled out, checked, or replaced just about everything that traditionally causes this kind of thing.

Last edited by Stamina; 12-16-2013 at 12:59 AM.
Old 12-15-2013, 11:25 PM
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mine does it when i shift into 2nd gear at low rpm. like its sputtering
Old 12-16-2013, 12:17 AM
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Mine will stumble right after cat warm up mode at idle. Had a few misfire cels at one point and then a flashing cel at WOT in third. Dealer told me it was the valves and that because the car was outside and cold that it was the problem. I cleaned the valves and the car now sits in a heated garage. The third gear misfire is gone which is not surprising (the valves were pretty nasty) but the post cat warmup idle stumble remains.

Gets to about 1000k rpm and starts doing it. Not every time I start the car but probably about a third of the time.

I did some of the same logging as you but I didn't look at the cam phaser solenoids, just timing, afr, and knock. Didn't see anyone weird. No boost/vacuum leaks, gms1 tune with MAPs I crimped/plugged myself. Stock everything.
Old 12-24-2013, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Stamina
I see you're an old school 7-bit kinda girl. Living life without a checksum... a risk taker too I see! That's hott.
Ok, I laughed. More than I should have...
Old 01-06-2014, 03:04 PM
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Update on this:

I had started getting some rattles when going over small bumps, and after some inspection I found that the passenger suspension spring had relaxed a bit and the rear control arm bushing bolt seemed a bit loose when I checked them. I tightened up and preloaded the coilover springs 5mm, and re-tightened the rear CAB bolts to spec, and not only have the rattles gone away, but the spark timing jumping / car bucking has also.

What may have been happening was that the CAB bolt(s) were just loose enough for the control arm to move around too much in the subframe cradle it sits in, and the movement slack caused a back and forth jerking between between the control arm (basically the car's wheel) and rest of the car. This would explain how the car would do it's bucking/jerking/spark timing jumping thing independent of any tune flash or general powertrain changes, and wouldn't do it when accelerating or would do it less when the car was loaded down with people or gas.

I've tested it out for a few days now, with no spark timing jumps when it would normally happen every few seconds, so it appears it may be fixed now. I'll post up again if that's not the case, but this appears to be closed now. So if you have similar issues, check that your rear control arm bolts are tightened to spec. It also helped first gear on-off throttle transition to be smoother.

Last edited by Stamina; 01-06-2014 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:12 PM
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So Let Me Get This Straight. Sarahs Not A Bot?
Old 01-06-2014, 04:44 PM
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lol... Everybody thought she was for so long, but now it's questionable.

I like how that's what people get from this thread.


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