shawn

Did you find a solution, I'm having the same issues

Aleksey

iTrader: (6)

had my ebrake readjusted twice already, good luck lol

SSlobalt

SomBrody else on here figured it out and I confirmed it: you have to pull your rear calipers off the pads, screw the positions all the way in, then reassemble and pump the brakes back up with the pedal before driving. Your ebrake should work great after that.

deeoh

This^^. I just finished replacing the rear pads also. It fixed both the hand brake problem as well as the pedal height problem that others have been experiencing. In my case, adjusting the parking brake prior to replacing the pads did not fix this problem.

chickenbop

I have had three calipers replaced in a year! and Chev Cust Service did NOTHING to help out with cost. They actually charged me 3 hours service to change this latest caliper even though it's a one hour job because it took them so long to diagnose the noise.
Before this, they charged me to change out an exhaust shield which did nothing to help the noise that ended up being the rear caliper. Amazing. GM really should have a grip on these problems by now. Expect no help from user Chev Cust Service online here either. I contacted her but received nothing but a repeat of the dealership's spill.

Naotakun148

So what if the cable has been adjusted to the max and I want to fix this problem? The prior owner already maxed the adjustment on the ebrake cable so should I readjust, then do the rear brakes? Would that fix my e brake problem still?

I hate to bring it in because the dealership in my area( the only one certified for warranty work) constantly denies me warranty work on covered parts all the time. Biggest ****** I've ever worked with, and the only modifications to my car are exterior cosmetic mods, not even suspension work.

While I'm thinking about it, does anyone know if an untrue wheel would be covered? I'm about 100% positive it is but they tried getting me to pay for a brand new one, with mounting & balancing they wanted $679 for one wheel! They insisted it was cosmetic and not covered, although we all know we need 4 wheels to drive safely. Oh and the wheel is so badly untrued if it was on the front of the vehicle it would shake so violently you can't exceed speeds of 30mph.

Basically I want the money I spent on a refurbished wheel I bought from detroitwheel since GM couldn't hold up on there warranty.

SSlobalt

I'm out of the bumper-to-bumper range but I'm only at 24K miles. I wonder if they would actually replace mine. I doubt it.

m0ore4ustin391

+1 me too, I am taking it in for the recall on monday for the fuel pump recall (2009) and this same e-break issue. This is all covered under warrenty so we will see what happens and report back here as soon as I my car back.

insylem

Yes I did.

One of my rear calipers was not fully releasing the parking brake. This caused the cable on that side to go slack, and fall out of the balancer under the center consul where you adjust the brake at. This let the balancer tilt all the way in one direction and it was unable to put enough tension on the remaining side as a result.

I replaced the caliper and bled the brake system. Reconnected the parking brake cable, readjusted it and it works great now.

Chevrolet Cust Svc

m0ore4ustin391,
How did everything go yesterday?
Sarah, GM Customer Service

Chevy_tuner

iTrader: (1)

Just to confirm, to fix i need to compress the pistons on the rear calipers and pump them back out. And that should do it unless its worse then replace the calipers and adjust ebrake?

Rebel

Just had mine fixed at the dealer last week. Only cost like $30 so it wasn't a big deal.

SSlobalt

Yeah. Compressing the pistons is kind of tough, though. You have to apply a lot of pressure while slowly turning the piston back in. It's easier with the correct tools.

Chevy_tuner

iTrader: (1)

I have a c clamp. So just compress the piston in like when changing out the pads? And i should remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir. Assuming this lnf has one, everything is different on it.

krispy

If you want to make it really easy to screw them back in you crack the bleeder while screwing in; just make sure to tighten it before releasing the pressure.

I've determined the same thing, gotta run the brake piston in/out a few times to free it up then e-brake and brake pedal feel is back to normal. Mine freeze after ~4 days so I half deal with it by just doing some hard braking which seems to partially free them up.

insylem

That happened to me.
My right brake caliper parking brake part got stuck in the SET Position, When the brake lever was lowered, it caused the cable to come disconnected from the balancer, so when the lever is repulled, it cant tighten EITHER side.

Do like the others sugested and check your balance under your center consel by your brake lever, but also check to make sure the brake is fully releasing on your calipers. On the calipers in the back in the inside (Side towards the middle of the car) where the parking brake cable attaches, it will lift up and go down. See if one is tuck up and if you can pull it down with pliers.

If it gets stuck up, replace tha caliper.

09FullBoost

I have this same issue. I just adjusted the cable on the handle but I guess I gotta do some more work than that.

Ben.Reilly

Just to circle back around (sorry for bringing back an old thread) but I can confirm that taking off the offending caliper and resetting the piston back into the caliper solves the issue. I did it this afternoon and it worked perfect!

SSlobalt

Yeah, I've had to do it twice, now. I really need new calipers, but who wants to replace trash with more trash? I want an alternative caliper.

Pitbull2o08

iTrader: (2)

I want an alternative car.

robertmichaels

iTrader: (1)

is there any way to free up the parking brake mechanism on the caliper? both of my rears are locked solid after sitting in storage all winter, got it out pulled the ebrake and now both sides are stuck and wont budge

insylem

Yes,
Get some WD-40 and spray on the hindge. Get some Pliers and grab where the cable holds and pull down till it hits the metal stop.

Set and release the parking brake to make sure it's not stuck. If it's stuck, get the pliers again and pull the lever down (On the inboard side of the calliper) until it contacts the stop. THe cable attaches to the lever. at the caliper. I was able to get mine with no lift and leaving the wheel on.

If they keep getting stuck up, dont use the brake and replace the calipers.
Make sure your parking brake handel is lowered though.
ALso note: Once you lower the handel if the calipers are still stuck in the set (up) position, the cable will go slack and the balancer may fall off.

robertmichaels

iTrader: (1)

ya thats what happened, the passenger got stuck on and the balancer came off but it was time to put it way for the year, but now i just got the car out of winter storage and the divers side is locked off

Wired

iTrader: (3)

Also wanted to confirm that resetting the piston works great. My left caliper was so loose it was rattling as I drove. Resetting the piston made the rattle stop and my brakes now feel more powerful than ever! I should have done this a while ago.