bri2203

iTrader: (10)

I bought my TC brand new and three weeks ago turned the front rotors and replaced the pads with the OEM A/C Delco brake pads.

Ever since installing them they squeak with light pressure around 10 mph. I have performed many panic stops to get them hot but this only band aids the issue for a few miles.

I talked to the supplier and they said they would warranty the pads but I would prefer to ID the issue. I know some performance pads squeak but my original pads never squeaked I the 65,000 miles.


Ideas?

slvrred-

iTrader: (2)

if you didn't clean the rotor good you could metal fragments stuck in the pad material causing your squeak. when you turn or machine a rotor you should use a mix of warm water and dish soap to clean them off before using brake clean to spray them off. brake clean alone will only do half the job and you get a squeak. Just as an FYI my front brembo's squeak from time to time anyway. just the way the game goes.

Cobalt_Daddy

performance brakes + street use = squeeling sometimes.

mine did when i first got them and still do from time to time.

bri2203

iTrader: (10)

I guess I will take them apart and do a close inspection of the pads.

It just makes no sense because the original brakes never sqeaked.

LNFTX

If you clean and lube properly squeaking should be minimal
Clean caliper lube behind shim and on the pad bridge and on pins should be good

Wired

iTrader: (3)

I just did mine and have no squeaking, although I replaced rotors as well.

I made sure to use all the brembo grease on the back of each pad and plate as well as added some brake grease to every metal contact point including the sides of the pins and retainer.

Then lots of hard braking for the break in process.

svt

you probably need to burn them in. Mine were very squeaky when I replaced them, but after several quick stops/hard braking, the squeaking is minimal.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Your new pads are "broke in" yet, look up pad break in, or just keep driving and they'll eventually "break in"

Pasierbek

2 year bump, Im in the same situation. I bought the SS/TC in December with brand new replacement OEM rotors and pads. 8000 miles later they are squeeling and screeching when approaching a slow stand still. They are silent when i first start the car and brake for three red light stops and then the screeching sounds terrible that everyone at the intersection starts shooting me dirty looks. Im also getting steering wheel wobble when I brake. My guess is that the rotors are gone. But all I hear Brembo this, Brembo that... But do you hear Challenger R/T's rolling up screeching like that to a stop sign? No. STI's? No. and even a lot of you arent having that chalkboard screeching noise, so whats going on here?

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Could be you warped your rotors

LNFTX

Properly lubing the pads is very important. it should be easy to pop them out lube the contact area and check the slider pins for wear.

Pasierbek

Not so easy to get the slider pins out... I tried to get them out to lube them by using a mallet to pop them out and they didn't wanna come out. Ive been reading that they do get seized up a lot so mine are probably seized as well. But shaking steering wheel while braking means the rotors are warped no?

LNFTX

Stuck pins suck glad i dont live near salt.
Generally a shaking wheel on braking will indicate a warped rotor. How it got warped is important, stock rotors should not warp. Make sure that you dont have a pad that is sticking check for even thickness across all four pads. I had one that got stuck because i didn't clean all the brake dust from the calipers and ruined a set of brakes in a few thousand miles.

Pasierbek

I gave the car to the Midas guys to diagnose. The tech told me there is nothing wrong with the brakes lol and just recommended buying cross drilled rotors cause stock rotors are gonna warp. I think I may have an excuse to buy my R1 premiums now...

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

Worst advice ever. Stock LNF rotors don't warp. At least not routinely. They are quality rotors made in Germany. Please don;t get cross drilled rotors, especially R1Concepts. They use cheap Chiwanese blanks and give them a fancy powder coat. Cross drilled rotors WILL crack. My advice is have your stock rotors turned at a NAPA for 20 bucks, and you should be good to go. I've had to do mine several times (but I road track my car)

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

I think one of the problems is that GM has muddied the waters here;
GM sells several lines of "OEM" brakes - to the point, that I would suspect most people don't have a clue what replacement parts they have on their car.
The actual OEM (all european sourced) brakes are going to be VERY hard to beat in quality from a driving standpoint.

I made the mistake of using a GM recommended replacement rotor (raybestos) and they seemed to warp almost immediately - a little over a year later, I was fed up, and I ponied up for the expensive stuff - now it brakes like it should with no fuss, and no noise.

That midas advice was terrible - if you take it, the joke will eventually be on you.

LNFTX

As stated above twice oem rotors made in Germany are great quality and they only cost about $50.
Crossed drilled rotors are not recommended for use with oem ferrodo pads they will most likely crack.
The midas guy is full of it colodude races his cobalt with an efr turbo on big boy courses and he uses stock rotors....

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

I have drilled and slotted and i will not recommend ill be going stock next time i need them. And yes i had to turn the rotors because they warped

Pasierbek

Ok Ok guys you gave some fair sounding advice. Ive researched all about cross drilled rotors being weaker cause youre breaking down the surface area of the rotor, that I can understand and turning your rotors is only a temporary fix. Looks like my rotors are some OEM raybestos stuff and I highly doubt my pads are Ferrado but some other econoline OEM pads. But hating on R1 premiums? Ive read all about their top quality stuff on here and the group buy thread is full of happy customers. So I wont get cross drilled but just slotted cause hey I dont track my car, all I want is a silent roll to stop. Is that too much to ask for from a stock "german" rotor? I guess so. Also, I want to run Hawk pads on the slotted fyi.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

The "OEM" acceptable Raybestos are not the German rotors, hence the not sounding nice and warping. Don't run Hawk pads if you want quiet, since you don't care about tracking brake performance get slotted rotors to help with stopping in the rain these here http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...autoModClar=SS
and these pads http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...autoModClar=SS

Pasierbek

I appreciate the input but Im so lost, so many different opinions on this site that its crazy. Ive read so many good reviews about the R1 premium rotors drilled or slotted and now I have people here saying dont get them. Whats wrong with R1? Can I get a reason? The group buy quote they gave me was insane. I like spirited driving on the street, thats it. I dont want to be squeeling like a pig going into slaughter everytime I stop cause its killing my enjoyment of this car, is that too much to ask for? Now onto Hawk pads.Ive heard from guys at my local meet that they are quieter than stock from those that are actually running them. Im gonna take another stab at lubing everything up tomorrow and see where that gets me.

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

Left: OEM rotor. Right: R1Concepts "Premium" rotor



What ultimately happened to both my front R1C rotors. Granted I beat the **** out of mine at the road track. But OEM rotors last and last. In fact, I'm still using my original front and rear rotors from 2010 today.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

You can always try a few good hard stopped from 100-10mph in a row to heat everything up. But if you have warped rotors I dont recommend this.

R1's are cheap crappy chinese steel. The set I linked I run for DD'ing (currently at about 15k on them haven't squeeled once), but will swap to the stock pads for racing (not that I've done much of that lately), I think it was like 275ish shipped to my door. Granted you are in Canada, but a drive to the US from Missisauga maybe worth it

Pasierbek

Colodude, Okay I see what youre showing me. But you sound like you drive it hard on the track and youre putting out way more power than me. So maybe R1's are not for you. But for someone like me that just has it as a fun DD, I cant see them getting that bad. But I might be taking your advice Ecaulk cause those Stoptech rotors are exactly what I want. Was 275 the price for all 4?

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

The Stoptechs sound like a much better deal, price/quality wise. My issue with the R1's is why spend that much money on an inferior rotor? If you like the black finish you can simply paint your stockers. I've done it and the paint holds up fine for normal street driving.