umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

Is that sarcastic? Cause sometimes even a woman needs her ass kicked

I need to study the DashHawk more.

UPDATE

I figured out the DashHawk. The factory wideband PID is Wideband 1 and works perfectly on the DashHawk. I am very happy to see this work. So I setup mine to display Commanded and Actual right next to each other.

peachpuff

By low rpm i meant 2000rpm, but ya at idle its 14.7.

cmiller8006

iTrader: (3)

my car is stock and have black soot build up on the back end after just a few days and am constantly washing it, why would they not have it tuned to not do that from the factory?

Hotshot768

I was unaware about my LNF having a factory wideband but its alright though. I checked to sensor on the AEM today and compared it to the factorys wideband through my aeroforces. The AEM is much more accurate than it was yesterday. I'm guessing that the O2 sensor wasnt tight enough on the downpipe. I noticed that the factory wideband isnt as active as the AEM. When it comes to full throttle the AEM picks up much quicker than factory does so I'm actually pretty glad I bought the AEM. I appreciate the help from everyone. At full throttle I sit at about a 12.3 and at idle anywhere from 14.5 to 15.7(this is the AEM having its bouncing around fun .

Motorway Justice

If you're interested, here's the cosmetic workaround:

"My car is making a lot of soot, is this normal?
Yes, like the ticking the soot is an unfortunate side effect of running a SIDI engine. Using a metal polish or long lasting auto wax on the tail pipe will help make cleaning easier."
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...85&postcount=2

Best of luck to you.

cmiller8006

iTrader: (3)

yea i aready wax every thing on the car even the tail pipe. thanks tho

WaRRioR-StaTuS

I have a dyno graph and its shows my car at 12.8 after bolt ons and a tune, then drops around 12.5 towards HIGH rpms Di is leaner for us so its SAFE lol

2k8turboSS

wut colour wire do you have to tap into to get a air fuel gauge to read

originaladrian

wow thts slick...

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

That's what she said.

MapOfTaziFoSho

I love SIDI...

I recall past cars that would got to 10.9 - 11.5 at WOT...

Terminator2

Stock is around 14:1 A/F average. Stock tune is way leaner than your tune trust me on that. Max power seems to occur right at 12.4-12.8 A/F.

jwhitten

I have both my stock and performance tune and my stock tune reads 12.04 I own HPT and can read my own AFR and my stock tune is indeed 12.04

Terminator2

Why is your car so rich stock? Everyone who has ever dynoed or tuned their car has seen that it starts at 15:1 in the lower revs and goes to 14:1 then finally to 13.4 at 5500 rpms. Ask Area 47 and Psychostevo. I think your scanner is not reading properly or something because you are the only one who has ever posted an A/F that rich stock. IDK. Ask anyone was has seen the stock A/F while dynoing the TC. It is way leaner than your tuned A/F.

Motorway Justice

Why is this a problem?

Witt

The reason the AEM is quicker is that the factory o2 isn't a true wideband. Its simply a high res narrowband that lacks the resolution and constant stream that a true calibrated wideband provides. The LNF factory o2 is still a 0-1v sensor unlike a higher res 0-5v wideband.

Stamina

Richer mixture = more gas used = worse gas mileage

DI also allows for safe leaner mixtures than previously capable. I think that's what he's saying.

On the other subject, I'm pretty sure it's normal for tunes to go rich under acceleration. In DI it helps keep engine temps down while also protecting against pre-ignition/detonation. Also, when you get off the throttle and certain conditions are met, it'll go lean or even cutoff fuel to save gas while coasting. Idle seems to be around the 14.7 stoic ratio, but my guage jumps around +-0.5 or so.

To the guy with the rediculously rich mixture: Try disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting to reset the ECU. Either that or take another reading after a few days. Maybe it's trying to adapt to something going on with the car.

Motorway Justice

I'm just trying to keep up here. I still think is some confusion on the threads as to what number value is rich and what is lean. If you're at wide-open throttle, I'm pretty sure the last thing on your mind is fuel economy, UNLESS you're in an endurance race. Keeping the fuel mixture rich, as you said, would aid in combustion chamber cooling and prevention of predetonation.

Stamina

Yeah. It just sounded like some of these guys were talking about mixture being on the rich side on a normal basis, regardless of throttle position. If that's the case you're just going to blacken you exhaust and make fewer miles per tank.

Turbo06Sedan

Higher the number = Lean
Lower The number = Rich

Stamina

Turbo06Sedan is right.

A 14.7 Air-to-Fuel Ratio is the correct ratio for all of the air to react with all the the fuel in the combustion chamber... or anywhere for that matter.

If you are higher than that (>14.7 A/F Ratio), then you have a leaner mixture. This causes a hotter burn and better fuel mileage, but the heat from the hotter burn can cause damage to the engine if it is not designed for the hotter temperatures.

If you are running lower than that (<14.7 A/F Ratio) then you have a richer mixture. This causes a cooler burn and worse fuel mileage, but the cooling action allows for protection of the engine during high throttle/boost/load applications when pre-ignition/detonation/"knock" have the highest probability of occuring. The side effects of a rich mixture would be getting worse gas mileage and having extra black smoke come out the exhaust. You would also notice a blackening of the exhaust/tip and perhaps rear bumper.

Now knowing that, most stock tunes are designed to run about 14.7 when at idle, lower than 14.7 (rich) for hard acceleration, and slightly higher than 14.7 (lean) for light throttle. For those that have a wideband/factory RPD you can view the AFR and watch your car change the ratio under different circumstances. To further save fuel, you vehicle has a fuel cutoff that engages during coasting/no throttle at speed when in gear (so you're not "sitting" on the idler). When this happens, you will notice that your AFR will peg at 18+ and your engine is essentially windmilling.

Cool, huh?

JPizzle

Very very informative post!! Thank-you kind sir!!!

jwhitten

My scanner is fine, and steve is the one who tuned my car. at idle and lower revs it does read 14-15 and under full throttle is does get all the way down to 12.04 on my stock tune I have checked this several times Now with my tune I am running 12.8 in my 3rd gear full throttle runs and my AFR is flat all the way across the scale. I have never had any problems with my car at all but it does in fact run a 12.08 stock tune and that comapered with 2 HPT scanners.

Area47

12.0 is not a stock afr for the lnf cars.

peachpuff

There's no voltage output from the stock sensor, this isn't like a typical narrowband sensor.