HooniganRB

Hi guys, I've got a 2008 SS/TC and earlier today my intermittent boost issue seems to have become a permanent one. I made a post elsewhere and was told I should try here. I'll just copy/paste from my original.

Simply put, my car isn't building boost. Up until today what would happen sometimes is when I put my foot down(not always WOT) it wouldn't boost. I'd let off the throttle, give it a second, and then give it throttle again and it, typically, went on like normal. There was one time where I was taking off from a stop, like normal, and it did this but before I could left off it suddenly spiked right up to full boost, which I think is around 13-14psi(?).

However as to earlier today, it's not boosting at all. Here's a brief video I took of the boost gauge to give you an idea of what I've attempted to explain. I am at WOT in that clip.

The car is stock other than an Injen intake and muffler delete. I have a code for inefficient cat and, as of a week ago, a misfire in 3 & 4 (which has returned after being fixed a couple months ago). I also just had the timing chain done two weeks ago(the boost issue existed prior to this).

Also, just to come clean from the get-go, my mechanical know-how is kinda slim. I'm young and haven't had a ton of experience outside of the more basic stuff(the most "complex" thing I know how to do is brakes), so sorry if I don't have the answer to some questions you may have!

Thanks in advance!

HooniganRB

Wow, and to think I was directed here by someone saying this may be a good place to get some help regarding the issue.

Thanks for nothing.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Bitching really won't get you help.

Your first post contains very little information, the video seems like a boost leak.

rnjmur

There aren't any real meaningful codes, aside from the misfires, to go off of.

Are you getting a flashing CEL at all when doing the pulls?

Watching the video it doesn't seem to be acting like a boost leak to me. It looks more like a wastegate or BPV (the recirculating bypass valve) issue to me. Normally you expect to see a code for these issues but not always. I would probably start by looking at the wastegate actuator to make sure it is working properly then move to the BPV if the wastegate looks fine.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

These can be tricky things to figure out. Can you hear your bpv open and close?

HooniganRB

First off, apologies for the bitchy-ness in my post from yesterday. Wasn't in the best of moods, my bad.

Anyhow, since I posted originally I have got a code. P2099. Based off some further research I did I've narrowed it down to the wastegate actuator. It seems to be the most common reason for this code.

Now, with that said, how do I access it? Again, based on my "research", it cannot be access and fixed with the engine in the car. Am I wrong about this? Someone please tell me I am.

rnjmur

So if you look at this post, the wastegate actuator is the rod connected to the silver cylinder. (This isn't our exact turbo but it looks very similar) The vacuum lines connect to the black rectangle which is a solenoid (don't remember it's exact name) which could also cause the wastegate to not work.

HooniganRB

Would this be accessible without removing the turbo? I've seen some other pictures showing these parts and all of them show the turbo off of the engine.

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

I have not tried messing with my Wastegate actuator myself but I believe you can reach it without removing the turbo. unless your really short or have really short arms.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

You can reach it on car but you may have to find the right wrenches. I had to cut one of mine in half to he able to get it in there.

Jaizero

That looks like a boost leak, check all your clamps, couplers, charge pipes. If the boost control solenoid or wastegate was shot, you'd still be able to build boost pressure up to the wastegate spring pressure. If the wastegate actuator was seized, you would just boost to infinity (ask how I know). It's possible the bypass valve is shot and isn't closing properly bleeding boost. Check all your vacuum lines and make sure there aren't any cracks or cuts. There is also another boost control solenoid on top of the intake manifold toward the passenger side. That may be failing as well causing the bypass valve to stay open.