efactor

iTrader: (2)

I was wondering the techniques of the no lift shift. Somehow I don't think I'm doing it correctly. I have read a couple of fourms. I started to be in competive mode and started "no lift shift" @5500rpms at 2nd gear to 3rd gear, but some say you should be at the redline to "no lift shift" , which makes me think that is too much for the car to handle at higher rpms. The moment my foot is on the pedal flooring, I shift to 3rd from 2nd and see my RPMs jumping from 5500rpms to 6500rpms. Is this normal or am I suppose to be at @ 6000 to engage correctly w/o blowing up the clutch quickly?

swazzees

im interested in a professional expanation.....not something stupid
I haven't been in my car for months.....but from what I remember
When I did it at or near 6000rpm, I lost half my boost so 15psi no lift shift it falls to about 5 to 8 psi....

Im not sure if this is normal or i was beating the hell out of the clutch...
I only did it about 5 times since i had the car, I was nervous because it didnt seem right and i like my car, not hate it.


Thanx for a serious reply, Ill speak for the OP aswell

northvibe

iTrader: (1)

you want to nls right before redline close to 6k, if you do it at redline you'll get the rev limiter and it wont nls right and you'll cel.

The faster the clutch engages the less wear, so slipping it slow will burn it out faster than letting it grab quickly. The car was meant to take the "beating", you just need to complete the nls properly.

fingerling

1st to 2nd WOT slam the clutch slam into second as fast as possible lift off clutch repeat for other gears
if done right takes a half a sec at the longest to shift

efactor

iTrader: (2)

so basically being close like @5600 stabbing the clutch in from 2nd to 3rd and out will engage the "nls" before 6000? can you give me a life scenenario example how you would do it?

fingerling

shifting closer to the redline as you can get will make it quicker because youll hold more boost

i try to get to shift at 5900 or 6000 because i can nls less then a half a sec so just do what you feel comfortable at first
slow is smooth, smooth is fast and consistancy is better than being lucky

shifting closer to the redline as you can get will make it quicker because youll hold more boost

i try to get to shift at 5900 or 6000 because i can nls less then a half a sec so just do what you feel comfortable at first
slow is smooth, smooth is fast and consistancy is better than being lucky

efactor

iTrader: (2)

so the RPM's not suppose to jump? Just quick split second. Here is the video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISPnUlcWOcU he doesn't sound like his RPM's jumped at the end, which makes me stracth my head for a sec.

fingerling

right and if you hit the rev limiter dont fret over it to much thats what its there for just try not to do it again

cardelino18

iTrader: (3)

i read that you have like 0.7 seconds to do a full throttle shift... thats when the NLS is engaged... do it close to 5700RPM so you dont hit the REV limit... also dont take your clutch out slow...just shift and take the clutch as fast as you can so the clutch wont burn...

good luck!

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

you CAN no lift shift at any gear, but I dont recommend doing it below 5400 rpms.

YES the rpm will jump up to redline once you throw the clutch in, this is normal. Whats different between doing this while NLSing and doing this in another car than cant NLS or doesnt have the parameters is that the rpm will hold at the redline briefly without cutting fuel.

For instance if you were to redline in any other car, you'd notice power gets cut immediately and the rpm falls to a safe speed before it starts rising again. That DOES happen in the cobalt if you hold your foot on the gas too long and dont shift quick enough.

basically holding the foot on the gas keeps the turbo spooling, MANIFOLD pressure may drop once you put the clutch in but trust me that turbo is full spinning. as soon as you disengage the clutch the boost builds back up to full boost because of the resistance of the transmission. You should still maintain boost with the clutch engaged, even though its not 15psi. (Whats causing the boost to rise and drop would be the BPV + the internal wastegate. waste gate maintains how fast the turbo spins (exhaust side) and the BPV maintains how much pressurized air enters the intake manifold/engine.

Lets take a look at whats happening inside the engine as you "NO Lift Shift".

you are accelerating at an alarming rate ready to NLS.

you approach rpm "x" and engage the clutch.

A parameter senses the gas pedal is 95% compressed or more and the clutch is engaged and manages fuel to prevent over revving for a brief second for NLS to complete.

As the clutch was engaged the wastegate closes to keep the turbo spinning at its desired setting.

While this occurs, the BPV opens up and air runs from the intake manifold through the breather hose and back into the intake before the turbo. With the BPV open, the boost will drop because there is no "controlled closed system" so pressure can build fully but the turbo still spools.

Once the clutch is disengaged and the next gear is selected, the BPV closes and the spooling turbo immediately applies its boost.

^^^ Like I said this will work at any RPM except, when you do it at lower rpms you could be stressing your motor. If you do do it at a low rpm pay attention to the "sneeze" the car will make as a rush of charged air is injected into the breather hose on the intake side. This should really cover any questions what so ever, lol.
The NLS DOES NOT MAINTAIN BOOST, IT MAINTAINS SPOOL OF THE TURBO

HB_SS/TC

iTrader: (1)

It's supposed to hold the rpms at redline which for you is 6500rpm

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

bingo, this guy gets a cookie, let me find an E-cookie.



***WONKA VISION ENGAGED***





okay, theres your cookie, now reach into the screen and grab it.

BlackMamba08

F no lift ****. I just save time and start driving in 5th gear. That was i don't have to shift. Sometimes I have to spray with a 100 wet shot of NAWWWWZZZZ to get off the line

tom.g

iTrader: (4)

I onwed my Cobalt since June and my first time trying a NLS was 2 weeks ago I knew what it was and how to use it just never did. I think I did it correctly because I heard the pop from the exhaust and I didn't grind any gears lol.

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

yes, another sign if done correct is your engine will run rich during the NLS for that split second causing a small backfire, or small explosion of exhaust gasses. I have been told I showed a blue flame and I have a high flow cat on. without a cat, you WILL get flames.

The reason it runs rich is the parameters change the fuel trim for the injection of charged air back in the intake. As soon as the BPV closes after the shift, the engine will be burning more fuel than air for a 10th of a second. POP!. You will only get a pop if you NLS at around 5900 to 6000 rpms. if you wait till redline, you may get multiple pops in a row. Ive had this happen, it sounds like madcatz firecrackers. 3-4 pops in a row. Its not bad for the car, it just means your timing was a little slow.

You ask why you get 3-4 pops? I'll give you a hint, a Supra will do about 6 pops in a row under the same circumstances. Thats right, its the number of cylinders.

SuperchargedSS

I rarely use it.... It's neat though. I would use it more if I was on the stock tune, but around here I don't need to use nls to get the job done.

Leveecius

I usually do my NLS around 5900 rpm's and I get a pop. But I get a pop anytime I do it. I also don't lose any boost either (on the mechanical or stock boost gauge). From what I've heard (I could be wrong for saying this), but when you do a NLS, the car actually backfires slightly to keep the turbo spooled (as when you push your clutch in, it's basically putting it in neutral and most know you can't really build/hold boost in neutral). That is why you only have .3-.5 seconds to do the NLS. At least that's the way it was explained to me, and that also explains why I get a pop (but so does the rich fuel trim). Again, I could be wrong, but both make sense to me as I've seen people use Nitrous/propane to "pre-spool" turbos before so I figured it was the same concept.

Permafried-

1) Run the motor up to about 6000rpm (if you have the Stage Kit installed you can go a little higher, maybe 6200) to get it close to redline and take into consideration that the tach may not be 100% accurrate
2) Clutch in, shift gear, clutch out

I'm not sure why people are concerned with blowing their clutch; it is exactly what it says "no-lift shift". Just do it and don't worry about it; the only thing to keep in mind is your tires cannot be spinning when you attempt it. Hit the redline and attempt it will fail miserably from what I've read. Also like Leveecius said, you have about .4 seconds to complete it before you're pushing the software to its limits so far as how it is handled.

Wrong your boost should not drop that far. I'll take you for a ride in the Spring and you can watch mine; it stays solid at whatever the boost was before the shift more or less. If you dropped to 5/8 my guess is you're either doing it wrong, or maybe too late and the turbo's falling on it's face for some reason. Either case it doesn't sound right.

mongorat427

iTrader: (82)

I shift at 6000 rpm stock tune and 6400 rpm on the tune with rev limiter set at 7000 rpm. The higher the better up to about 6400 rpm as this keeps the engine in the best power band.

Permafried-

I hope by "best powerband" you mean after the shift . For people's reference who may not know, the redlines are as follows:

Stock: 6300RPM
GMS1: 6500RPM

jarhead

Thanks for posting this My rev limiter is set at 7,000 rpm and I was wondering where I should shift at, Have only done NLS on the stock tune at 6,000 before, I will try the 6,400 NLS When on the 7,000 limiter tune.

Shibito

Tuned or not your RPM's may jump above redline when you shift. Nothing to really worry about, they come right back down. I've seen it happen in many stock and tuned cars. Worst I've seen is a guy waited almost to 7k to NLS and it almost hit 8k! My redline is 7k but I always NLS as soon as I get over 6k. If I shift normally I can run the gear out a little more.

kretty

on a fully stock car i can shoot a 1 ft flame out the back... i love my NLS capability.

swazzees

sounds made up

do tell

beast10007

Yep I can to I love it

My buddy with a modded WRX and a tune say's everytime we are on the freeway he can see a flame out the back I have a catless but no tune....I think its funny because I am ahead of him.