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Well I pulled my old powdered cover apart from same company, baffles were fine but had blasting sand all over them. And here I have been blaming royal purple for my old engine failure. I'm sure that was the cause. I apologize to royal purple, I was wrong. All the gray stuff is sand. I will not be using a powdered cover, if anything I will bolt new cover to old head and high heat paint it myself.
If someone pcs a valve correcrly the biscuits wont melt.
There's still sand that gets jammed in the biscuits. Look at toms pics above. The only proper way to powder coat a valve cover fool proof is to pull the biscuits, powder coat it then reinstall them.
There's still sand that gets jammed in the biscuits. Look at toms pics above. The only proper way to powder coat a valve cover fool proof is to pull the biscuits, powder coat it then reinstall them.
I don't know how u would re assemble. the rivits look like they are welded to the cover. unless u tig spot weld it back in. I'm just gonna bolt my new cover to old head, and use metal etching primer, give it a good cleaning and paint with high heat paint.
ya, I talked to john powell about this to, he advises to paint and not powder. and when paint, make sure its good and sealed. like bolting it to an old head.
I don't know how u would re assemble. the rivits look like they are welded to the cover. unless u tig spot weld it back in. I'm just gonna bolt my new cover to old head, and use metal etching primer, give it a good cleaning and paint with high heat paint.
Ya I'm not sure what Powell was doing to put the seperator covers back on. But he was doing it. Shoot him an email this way you won't have to waste your cover.
Ya I'm not sure what Powell was doing to put the seperator covers back on. But he was doing it. Shoot him an email this way you won't have to waste your cover.
I already talked to him, he said he bolted to rocker cover to a head and blasted and pc like that. which would be the only fool proof way. I am doing the same thing but just painting. I'm sending the one I bought back.
Well I pulled my old lnf apart cause I sold crank. After 2 years of heavy abuse at 28psi on kmo43 and term2 tunes. Engine looked like it never saw abuse in its life. Pistons , rings, rods , bearings , all looked mint. Props to kmo43 and term2 for awesome tunes
Ah interesting. He won't do then anymore though otherwise I'd get him to
You don't need him to do anything other than ask What he used to hold the biscuit covers on. Take it apart, clean them or replace them out of your other cover if they are damaged, then reassemble the cover.
The only reason he stopped doing it is because it's time consuming to make money off of.
I asked him, he said its not possible and he didn't do that. Only took one apart to see why an engine failed. The pins are cast into the block and then cover is out on and they are flattened. Can't be replaced
There's still sand that gets jammed in the biscuits. Look at toms pics above. The only proper way to powder coat a valve cover fool proof is to pull the biscuits, powder coat it then reinstall them.
Thats an improper job then......
Unfortunately theres nothing dave can do to see if there is sand in the valve cover. When i worked there they got rinsed before being shipped but we never had a pc booth in house. It was always sent out and you cannot control prep. Dave has switched powdercoaters more then a few times due to poor quality and lack of prep and care i can tell you that.
When i use to prep valve covers i run valve covers in a solvent take for 2 to 3 cycles to clean out any oil, mask off the inside and exterior ports and blast away. I never once have had sand in my biscuits nor in my engine. Matter of fact my valve covers been on for 65k. Even shaved the turbo ecotec logo off and no aluminim particles were ever inside.
Its the responsibility of the powdercoater to make sure that prep is done properly as well as the temps do not exceed the biscuit melting point. There are lots of low temp low bake powders out there.
I dont like to paint lnf valve covers because its next to impossible to prep around the bolt holes properly with some of the valleys near them. That alone is enough for heat to blister the paint and ruin the paint job. I dont ever use spray paint on things so i cant really vouch for that. However rehardless paint will never hold up like powder in terms of hardness and scratch resistence.
Lsj valve covers were never an issue to paint.
For the record tom. Royal purple is not a good oil and its been proven plenty of times. Generally motors though will fail and not because of an oil brand. Maybe because theres not enough, oil, lack of oil pressure, wrong viscosity, contaminated oil etc etc. I dont really recall what happened with yours.
Unfortunately theres nothing dave can do to see if there is sand in the valve cover. When i worked there they got rinsed before being shipped but we never had a pc booth in house. It was always sent out and you cannot control prep. Dave has switched powdercoaters more then a few times due to poor quality and lack of prep and care i can tell you that.
When i use to prep valve covers i run valve covers in a solvent take for 2 to 3 cycles to clean out any oil, mask off the inside and exterior ports and blast away. I never once have had sand in my biscuits nor in my engine. Matter of fact my valve covers been on for 65k. Even shaved the turbo ecotec logo off and no aluminim particles were ever inside.
Its the responsibility of the powdercoater to make sure that prep is done properly as well as the temps do not exceed the biscuit melting point. There are lots of low temp low bake powders out there.
I dont like to paint lnf valve covers because its next to impossible to prep around the bolt holes properly with some of the valleys near them. That alone is enough for heat to blister the paint and ruin the paint job. I dont ever use spray paint on things so i cant really vouch for that. However rehardless paint will never hold up like powder in terms of hardness and scratch resistence.
Lsj valve covers were never an issue to paint.
For the record tom. Royal purple is not a good oil and its been proven plenty of times. Generally motors though will fail and not because of an oil brand. Maybe because theres not enough, oil, lack of oil pressure, wrong viscosity, contaminated oil etc etc. I dont really recall what happened with yours.
see what you just said, rinsing the covers scares me. because what happens when you add water to sand? it gets wet and sticks. wet sand would not come out. if u have ever taken a biscuit out, ud see that on top of them are groves that will not let wet sand to come out with washing. over time it will come out I'm sure, like has happened to others people who have engines fail for that reason, but water is not a good idea, blowing compresses air threw until ur sure there is non left in or hooking it up to some kinda super strong vacuum system would work a lot better. but water? that's just crazy. I will not risk it. those vc groves u talk of can be prepped properly, if u have patients and take the time to do it, just need the right tools and take the time and don't rush or get frustrated.
I asked him, he said its not possible and he didn't do that. Only took one apart to see why an engine failed. The pins are cast into the block and then cover is out on and they are flattened. Can't be replaced
Oh I thought he was separating the plates. If GM can install it there's no way it can't be replaced. Just gotta be creative. Like drill out the pins and put something in its place.
Oh I thought he was separating the plates. If GM can install it there's no way it can't be replaced. Just gotta be creative. Like drill out the pins and put something in its place.
It would require rig welding new pins and flattening them again, u can't weld the plates on with a tac because they are aluminum and the plates are steel
It would require rig welding new pins and flattening them again, u can't weld the plates on with a tac because they are aluminum and the plates are steel
You're over thinking it. Just drill the holes, tap threads and screw or bolt it down.
see what you just said, rinsing the covers scares me. because what happens when you add water to sand? it gets wet and sticks. wet sand would not come out. if u have ever taken a biscuit out, ud see that on top of them are groves that will not let wet sand to come out with washing. over time it will come out I'm sure, like has happened to others people who have engines fail for that reason, but water is not a good idea, blowing compresses air threw until ur sure there is non left in or hooking it up to some kinda super strong vacuum system would work a lot better. but water? that's just crazy. I will not risk it. those vc groves u talk of can be prepped properly, if u have patients and take the time to do it, just need the right tools and take the time and don't rush or get frustrated.
Im a professional painter and chassis fabricator. I know how to prep. Theres no way to insurr you have gotten all the knooks and crannies in those tiny voids. When i offer a limited lifetime warrenty on painted parts all it takes is a little corner not being prepped to cause a blister or failure. Thats why even if i paint them i still blast them. Ive gotten dozens of valve covers under my belt and i dont have sand issues.
My point is there should br a grain of sand if prepped properly. If the biscuits absorb oil thats a lot worse then absorbing water. Absorbing oil will cause it to stick and oil and water do not mix. If you add enough water to sand it will rinse put providing you have asequate current. When your at thr best and you make a small mound of sand and the ocean water takes flattens and moves it easily. Thr real issue is the oil residue preventing water from taking it.
If the prep is done right there shouldnt be any sand in the cover. I run a side shop now and i prep all my own stuff for powder to insure that doesnt happen. I havent worked at werks in over 2 years so i cannot tell you what goes on therr now.
You're over thinking it. Just drill the holes, tap threads and screw or bolt it down.
u have any idea how small those pegs are? good luck finding a bolt or tap that small. the one peg I drilled is so short I drilled in a little and it went threw the top of the cover. its not as easy as u think. and I don't think id want a bolt screwed in that could potentially back out and f something up. I'm guessing that's why gm didn't just do that
u have any idea how small those pegs are? good luck finding a bolt or tap that small. the one peg I drilled is so short I drilled in a little and it went threw the top of the cover. its not as easy as u think. and I don't think id want a bolt screwed in that could potentially back out and f something up. I'm guessing that's why gm didn't just do that
I have a tap set for my rc truck with 3mm bolts... But whatever I don't really care if you don't want to make it work. Just a suggestion so you didn't have to **** money away powered coating your valve cover.
I have a tap set for my rc truck with 3mm bolts... But whatever I don't really care if you don't want to make it work. Just a suggestion so you didn't have to **** money away powered coating your valve cover.
U do realize ok can return it right? They told me if I'm not comfortable using it I can do so. I'm not dumb u know lol
So I'm sending this vc back and John Powell will be wet painting me one candy red. I trust his work completely so ya. Suspension is being built for my also by John. Koni's painted black with high heat paint and yyz springs powdered red. All assembled and ready to install. Yes I know I could do this myself, but I don't wanna so no need to point that out Lol. Motor is done and should be shipping out this week sometimes
02-10-2017, 07:14 PM
