lnf cam removal
05-28-2015, 10:47 PM
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lnf cam removal
Does anyone have a write up with pictures how to remove the cams in the lnf and replace them. Im going to be replacing my zzp intake cam and was looking for a walk through with pictures
05-29-2015, 06:19 PM
#3
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I'm in the middle of a cam and spring job for a customer right now actually. Anything in particular you're looking for while I've got her cracked open?
05-29-2015, 08:50 PM
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I'm just looking for How to do it I know I have to do valve cover off I was wondering when I take the caps off if I need to put them in any particular order. And how to get the cams aligned to take out
05-30-2015, 11:36 AM
#5
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Cap order and direction is crucial. They must go back in the same way they came out. The same goes for the cam followers. If you are reusing the cam followers, particularly if you are reusing one or both cams, they must go back on the same corresponding lash adjuster and valve they were removed from.
You're also going to need a special tool to lock your cam phasers in place to hold your set timing. There are ways around it, but the tool works great and makes your life a whole lot easier with disassmly/reassembly. The cam phaser bolts are also not reusable, so be prepared to purchase 2 new ones. While you're getting the new bolts, you'll also want to purchase a new fuel pipe from off of the hpfp to the rail. This is also not reusable and will need to be replaced with a new piece. You'll also want to consider getting a tube of the grey GM rtv to reseal around the hpfp and rear cap, as this is an area prone to leaking.
If you have any more specific questions just let me know.
You're also going to need a special tool to lock your cam phasers in place to hold your set timing. There are ways around it, but the tool works great and makes your life a whole lot easier with disassmly/reassembly. The cam phaser bolts are also not reusable, so be prepared to purchase 2 new ones. While you're getting the new bolts, you'll also want to purchase a new fuel pipe from off of the hpfp to the rail. This is also not reusable and will need to be replaced with a new piece. You'll also want to consider getting a tube of the grey GM rtv to reseal around the hpfp and rear cap, as this is an area prone to leaking.
If you have any more specific questions just let me know.
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05-30-2015, 01:06 PM
#9
You can 're use the cam bolts one time. I have never had an issue with over stretching them. Anymore then that I wouldn't reuse them.
Also the specialty tool does not really work super good to hold the gears to change the cams. I find you still need to clamp the cam gears to avoid having them slip off.
The pipe is not resuseable and reusing them can Lead to cracks. Also the correct sealer for the hpfp cam cap is anerobic sealer which is red. But I recommend using gray on the hpfp gasket to head gasket even if it's new and getting a new hpfp boring and boring gasket for the 3 bolt cap on the back of the head.
Also the specialty tool does not really work super good to hold the gears to change the cams. I find you still need to clamp the cam gears to avoid having them slip off.
The pipe is not resuseable and reusing them can Lead to cracks. Also the correct sealer for the hpfp cam cap is anerobic sealer which is red. But I recommend using gray on the hpfp gasket to head gasket even if it's new and getting a new hpfp boring and boring gasket for the 3 bolt cap on the back of the head.
05-30-2015, 07:51 PM
#12
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Get yourself a gm service manual for the LNF. That will give you a good idea on whether you will be able to handle the job. I used this stuff called reinzosil for sealing around hpfp cap. And end cap. No more oil seepage in that area now.
06-03-2015, 03:43 PM
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I got the cylinder at tdc do I need to remove the yellow cap at the End of the cam gear to be able to zip die the chain to the gear? Or how would I do it l?. Also how do you remove the yellow cap if it needs to be removed
I know I gotta loosen the tensioner.
I know I gotta loosen the tensioner.
Last edited by paintballerr78; 06-03-2015 at 04:42 PM.
06-03-2015, 04:43 PM
#16
I thought about writing on up and even took pictures but I decided against it because it's not the easiest job nor the hardest job and I feel if you have to ask and don't have a service manual a shop should be doing this.
Plus what you have to remove kappa vs cobalt to access the timing chain is different. Don't want to do 2 different ones.
Plus what you have to remove kappa vs cobalt to access the timing chain is different. Don't want to do 2 different ones.
06-03-2015, 07:09 PM
#20
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You're not clamping the chain to the gear, you're clamping the phasers with the chain on to the cam phaser locking tool. That's how you're locking your cam timing in place. He apparently uses c-clamps while I simply use zip ties. To me, the ties are just easier to work with but I can see how the clamps would work well too.
06-03-2015, 07:22 PM
#21
What 09cobaltss1 said is fine. I have modified clamps I use
Doing it this way you need to be extra careful getting the cams out and remember their orientation so you don't have to do much spinning.
Make sure you have anaerobic sealer for the hpfp cap and also make sure the hpfp slider is installed properly. I've had guys not seat it and crush the slot in the head
Doing it this way you need to be extra careful getting the cams out and remember their orientation so you don't have to do much spinning.
Make sure you have anaerobic sealer for the hpfp cap and also make sure the hpfp slider is installed properly. I've had guys not seat it and crush the slot in the head
06-03-2015, 07:30 PM
#22
What 09cobaltss1 said is fine. I have modified clamps I use
Doing it this way you need to be extra careful getting the cams out and remember their orientation so you don't have to do much spinning.
Make sure you have anaerobic sealer for the hpfp cap and also make sure the hpfp slider is installed properly. I've had guys not seat it and crush the slot in the head
Doing it this way you need to be extra careful getting the cams out and remember their orientation so you don't have to do much spinning.
Make sure you have anaerobic sealer for the hpfp cap and also make sure the hpfp slider is installed properly. I've had guys not seat it and crush the slot in the head