LNF PCV Anti-coking drain back system
11-29-2012, 09:39 PM
#77
this system is integrated into the PCV. Unless something is weird, or I am missing something, the BOV has nothing to do with the PCV. If you have changed the K04 to an S256 for example, more work is required but its not a deal breaker, Saturday BLRT is getting one installed on his S256
11-30-2012, 07:25 AM
#80
^^^Hey Vahdyx, thats a good price. Let me know how it works.
To use it, take the hose off the brake boost connector to the front right of the inlet manifold, unscrew the fitting and go in therel lotsa room. You should be able to see the valves fine,and check out the pictures posted here of what coked up valves look like... if you are not under warranty, removing the inlet manifold and blasting the valve stems with walnut shell media and vacuum to clean will work. It is a common practice in the industry, as all the DI engines do this and BMW et al recommend this service and charge way too much for it. Of course, its a BMW.
Funny thing is, a friend opined that GM engineering recommended the walnut blast procedure, but GM service under warranty (at least up here) strip the head off the car and do it the long , expensive, way. For what ever reason.
Its not a big deal (well other than coking makes the car run poorly,and the PCV system upgrade from me will help rectify the situation) - along with tier one gasoline of high octane, low ash engine oil, and paying attention to driving cycles...
I use 0w40 euro spec Mobil 1 oil in my wntrbtr2 but it is not as low ash as Mobil 1 esp. I pay about 12 dollars a litre. Before everyone goes crazy about oil prices, I pay about 3.69 dollars for french alps Evian bottled water (1.5 ml) well....not anymore, I fill a water bottle at home for nothing haha.
Its all pretty exciting for you to find things like the 38 dollar boroscope. I nearly sprung big bux for the snap on tool, but Gloria in the office threw a fit lol Hope what you found works..
To use it, take the hose off the brake boost connector to the front right of the inlet manifold, unscrew the fitting and go in therel lotsa room. You should be able to see the valves fine,and check out the pictures posted here of what coked up valves look like... if you are not under warranty, removing the inlet manifold and blasting the valve stems with walnut shell media and vacuum to clean will work. It is a common practice in the industry, as all the DI engines do this and BMW et al recommend this service and charge way too much for it. Of course, its a BMW.
Funny thing is, a friend opined that GM engineering recommended the walnut blast procedure, but GM service under warranty (at least up here) strip the head off the car and do it the long , expensive, way. For what ever reason.
Its not a big deal (well other than coking makes the car run poorly,and the PCV system upgrade from me will help rectify the situation) - along with tier one gasoline of high octane, low ash engine oil, and paying attention to driving cycles...
I use 0w40 euro spec Mobil 1 oil in my wntrbtr2 but it is not as low ash as Mobil 1 esp. I pay about 12 dollars a litre. Before everyone goes crazy about oil prices, I pay about 3.69 dollars for french alps Evian bottled water (1.5 ml) well....not anymore, I fill a water bottle at home for nothing haha.
Its all pretty exciting for you to find things like the 38 dollar boroscope. I nearly sprung big bux for the snap on tool, but Gloria in the office threw a fit lol Hope what you found works..
11-30-2012, 11:14 AM
#82
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i just realized gloria never got back to me.. i was originally "suppose" to be on that list of the first few sent out but never heard anything since then regarding payment
11-30-2012, 01:48 PM
#83
So short answer please send her another email with your shipping address, so it can not get missed, I think you will be very happy with the result. Dont forget to cross reference "padlock" with your real name cheers and thanks John
12-02-2012, 05:50 PM
#84
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Hey fellows,
I started working on this at 2ish and it's close to 4pm right now and I'm currently waiting on John's response on my current problem.
Anyway, here's my problem...
As you can see I either did something wrong for it to not fit, or it's just not gonna work for me at this moment. I haven't tightened anything down and I'm currently at a loss.
****Edit****
John and I just spoke, his customer service is unreal! I've never experienced customer service this good in my entire life! I'm super happy with John Powell
Anyway, he's making a different bracket for me to help with some clearance for me and he'll get it out as soon as possible.
I started working on this at 2ish and it's close to 4pm right now and I'm currently waiting on John's response on my current problem.
Anyway, here's my problem...
As you can see I either did something wrong for it to not fit, or it's just not gonna work for me at this moment. I haven't tightened anything down and I'm currently at a loss.
****Edit****
John and I just spoke, his customer service is unreal! I've never experienced customer service this good in my entire life! I'm super happy with John Powell
Anyway, he's making a different bracket for me to help with some clearance for me and he'll get it out as soon as possible.
Last edited by vahdyx; 12-02-2012 at 07:28 PM.
12-03-2012, 01:31 AM
#85
Senior Member
Is anybody going to do a check up on their gunk buildup after installing this? Like a before install and after install kind of progress. Not doubting John's work or anything...just me being curious
12-03-2012, 07:24 AM
#86
I am monitoring Loki's and Wangspeed is checking his, but the problem is its hard to ask folks to go find a borescope to do that; based on what we are seeing, now that there is no oil going up to the intake from the rocker cover, things will be better. But no doubt, each and every one sold I really want the feedback to see how the inlet valves are doing. Loki has not had his valves cleaned and he has a lot of time on the car; nor has Wangspeed.
For packaging there appears to be variation on the K&N stuff, some tubes touch the stud on the tower, some dont,and it may be that the way its attached to the lower connector tothe tube affects that. Never mind, I will rework the bracket and move the seperator.
Also, the way we designed it, the sustem integerates into existing lines. I may offer an option to remove the hose and line from the rocker cover, tap the cover to accept an 90 degree AN6 elbow, and eliminate one connector. If I make it an option, those folks who are brave enough to thread their rocker covers can do that. (Tap supplied I found a good supply last night on eBay lol)
On BLRT's S256 conversion the seperator clears the ZZP humungous tube and air filter, (even though the smaller K&N does not, go figure) but there are changes needed as the fresh air inlet is blocked off on that conversion and the nipple on the inlet tube wont accept the check valve connector. Lucky for me, Todd is an inventor of sorts and is having a good time reworking his plumbing, but it works at the moment no problem.
To be continued...
For packaging there appears to be variation on the K&N stuff, some tubes touch the stud on the tower, some dont,and it may be that the way its attached to the lower connector tothe tube affects that. Never mind, I will rework the bracket and move the seperator.
Also, the way we designed it, the sustem integerates into existing lines. I may offer an option to remove the hose and line from the rocker cover, tap the cover to accept an 90 degree AN6 elbow, and eliminate one connector. If I make it an option, those folks who are brave enough to thread their rocker covers can do that. (Tap supplied I found a good supply last night on eBay lol)
On BLRT's S256 conversion the seperator clears the ZZP humungous tube and air filter, (even though the smaller K&N does not, go figure) but there are changes needed as the fresh air inlet is blocked off on that conversion and the nipple on the inlet tube wont accept the check valve connector. Lucky for me, Todd is an inventor of sorts and is having a good time reworking his plumbing, but it works at the moment no problem.
To be continued...
12-03-2012, 09:16 AM
#87
John, the K+N comes with two different mount styles in the box because there are two different LNF valve covers. An early and a late. If we can go back and find the original topic discussing the K+N prototyping that a member here did with them there were pictures of both valve covers and mount styles posted within the topic.
The upshot of it is that yes, the K+N sits differently for a 2008 than it will a 2009 and 2010.
The upshot of it is that yes, the K+N sits differently for a 2008 than it will a 2009 and 2010.
12-03-2012, 09:16 AM
#88
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I'm going to hold off my order then until this K&N issue is resolved incase new parts need to be included. I have the exact same setup as vahdyx (same gen valve cover for the intake mounting locations)
12-03-2012, 09:19 AM
#89
John, the K+N comes with two different mount styles in the box because there are two different LNF valve covers. An early and a late. If we can go back and find the original topic discussing the K+N prototyping that a member here did with them there were pictures of both valve covers and mount styles posted within the topic.
The upshot of it is that yes, the K+N sits differently for a 2008 than it will a 2009 and 2010.
The upshot of it is that yes, the K+N sits differently for a 2008 than it will a 2009 and 2010.
Good to know this information, so thanks...Loki's is a 2008, and I bet Michael's is a 2010 or something like that.thats fine. I wont ship until I have it right for everyone.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 12-03-2012 at 09:19 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
12-03-2012, 01:04 PM
#94
In any case, John stated he would be making a new bracket so that should fix most problems ppl have with the mounting site.
12-03-2012, 01:22 PM
#95
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any reason to not just mount it to the engine side of the K&N heat shield? there seems like a good amount of space in that area if other options dont work. just throwing that as an idea out there. not sure of the viability of it
12-03-2012, 01:23 PM
#96
esentially with anything like that you want it as car away from heat source as possible is one thing imho.
but i think realistically where its at was the easiest place to mount it from a customer stand point. not everyone has a k and n so they wouldnt have a heatshield or anything to mount it to.
but i think realistically where its at was the easiest place to mount it from a customer stand point. not everyone has a k and n so they wouldnt have a heatshield or anything to mount it to.
12-03-2012, 02:52 PM
#99
I made a new bracket and shipped it out to Michael this morning;the location that Padlock points out, with a little movement to the center of the car, is the location for the stock air cleaner box. The problem is, two holes have to be drilled in the radiator tie bar and the bar itself is not perfectly flat. So our concept is to make an installation that requires no drilling, or modification to the rocker cover.
\
This new bracket moves the seperator. I could have just have easily said "drill two holes" but the same logic applies, try to make it easy and not drill any holes.
The hose lengths will be different I expect so I sent Michael another hose as well so he has options and then we can setttle on the correct lengths for his job.
If you look carefully at the picture, you can see a nutsert just to the left of the bracket. If I was to install these here, (and I will) I would probably use nutserts and eliminate the bracket.But the seperator would have to have spacers for that as the inner fender is not flat in this area there is a return out for the hood seal area. Same for the rad tie bar option I would probably use nutserts but it would still need a bracket. But I bet few, if any here , have an expensive nutsert install tool etc.
I have an idea to make an 1/8 pipe option; remove the entire dirty side hose connector and braided hose out of the rocker cover, and then tap with a 1/8th tap I can provide with each kit. Then a 90 deg AN6 fitting can be used and the install gets a little cleaner. This would eliminate the efi adaptor that I provide to interface with the stock braided hose.
But if you think about it, this means tapping the hole in the cover ( it is already the right size with the nipple removed) but that means risk of alloy debris getting in the cover, if care is not taken.
and that goes back to the "KISS" concept, installation and no extra work like drilling holes etc required.
So once Michael has tried the prototype new bracket we can continue on selling these units. Well priced I think,and good value.
Thanks for the help and advice folks.
\
This new bracket moves the seperator. I could have just have easily said "drill two holes" but the same logic applies, try to make it easy and not drill any holes.
The hose lengths will be different I expect so I sent Michael another hose as well so he has options and then we can setttle on the correct lengths for his job.
If you look carefully at the picture, you can see a nutsert just to the left of the bracket. If I was to install these here, (and I will) I would probably use nutserts and eliminate the bracket.But the seperator would have to have spacers for that as the inner fender is not flat in this area there is a return out for the hood seal area. Same for the rad tie bar option I would probably use nutserts but it would still need a bracket. But I bet few, if any here , have an expensive nutsert install tool etc.
I have an idea to make an 1/8 pipe option; remove the entire dirty side hose connector and braided hose out of the rocker cover, and then tap with a 1/8th tap I can provide with each kit. Then a 90 deg AN6 fitting can be used and the install gets a little cleaner. This would eliminate the efi adaptor that I provide to interface with the stock braided hose.
But if you think about it, this means tapping the hole in the cover ( it is already the right size with the nipple removed) but that means risk of alloy debris getting in the cover, if care is not taken.
and that goes back to the "KISS" concept, installation and no extra work like drilling holes etc required.
So once Michael has tried the prototype new bracket we can continue on selling these units. Well priced I think,and good value.
Thanks for the help and advice folks.
12-03-2012, 03:05 PM
#100
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Looks like I misunderstood you over the phone last night. What's the best way to turn my unit around lol.
Also thank you for sending me the new bracket. I really appreciate it.