When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok so here's my situation. Owned the car for almost 9 months and it went down about two months ago. Long story short, the car needs pistons and turbo. Turbo seal is slightly blown and exhaust side is cracked. I'm gonna go with weisco pistons and the ecotec connecting rods, super tech valve springs, the oversized valves for intake and exhaust valves and in the market for a turbo. I already know the EFR is the turbo I want. Seems like it will hold the power I want safely with these supporting mods. Already purchased zzp down pipe with cali cat, injen intake and intercooler pipes, treadstone tr8 intercooler and rocking dual aeroforce and stock boost gauge. Is there anything worthwhile running besides the efr. Seems like it is the smartest choice for power and it claims bolt on but I feel like something is missing. Just a heads up I've been looking at builds and information for months now on this forum. I'd just like to see if anyone is running the setup similar and if so what am I missing besides change the fuel pump and running e85 and cams. Any info is cool. Thanks.
If I was you I'd also get a gen3 block. The lnf block is prone to porus block and I wouldn't waste a penny building it. Gen3 is ldk sand cast block and stronger.
Ok I'll have to take a look at the ldk. I haven't even looked into that. Thanks for that info
The rebuild is in parenthesis cause it's not or a full rebuild to me for the fact that I am still stock everything when it comes to the transmission. Budget is 4-5k and I'm not really sure about the heat soak. My car stays pretty cool on the stock turbo. Would you have any recommendations? I feel the tr8 will be good enough to keep up with the upgrades I want. Then again I've never ran anything by stock turbo. My goal is a safe 400 whp dd that isn't gonna die on me so I'm just trying to run good Parts and collect some opinions and knowledge from you OG's
Last edited by Scubasteve88; 01-09-2017 at 08:45 PM.
Reason: Forgot something.
The GEN 3 lnf is compatiable with all the missing parts that it doesn't come with?? Like the rest of my engine can complete it if I buy gen 3? Or will I need to buy all new parts to complete it?
The GEN 3 lnf is compatiable with all the missing parts that it doesn't come with?? Like the rest of my engine can complete it if I buy gen 3? Or will I need to buy all new parts to complete it?
I believe its all the same. someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I believe its all the same. someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Cool thanks! What's your opinion on the ldk long block zzp offers?? Any good or stay away?? Says block is capeable of 500 to the wheels which is more then what I need.
Ok I'll have to take a look at the ldk. I haven't even looked into that. Thanks for that info
The rebuild is in parenthesis cause it's not or a full rebuild to me for the fact that I am still stock everything when it comes to the transmission. Budget is 4-5k and I'm not really sure about the heat soak. My car stays pretty cool on the stock turbo. Would you have any recommendations? I feel the tr8 will be good enough to keep up with the upgrades I want. Then again I've never ran anything by stock turbo. My goal is a safe 400 whp dd that isn't gonna die on me so I'm just trying to run good Parts and collect some opinions and knowledge from you OG's
I have a used TR8 kit if you're interested PM me. If you are going bigger than stock turbo I strongly recommend upgrading the intercooler. The stock intercooler is fine for a stock turbo, start going larger and the temps will rise quickly.
Cool thanks! What's your opinion on the ldk long block zzp offers?? Any good or stay away?? Says block is capeable of 500 to the wheels which is more then what I need.
it says the BLOCK is good for 500whp... not the rotating assembly in the block. I believe they rate that at 400whp.
I just finished doing an engine swap on my car. there's a thread on here where I posted some pics and info. any questions about the swap, let me know.
The rebuild is in parenthesis cause it's not or a full rebuild to me for the fact that I am still stock everything when it comes to the transmission.
I thought maybe you were just going to check the bores and if they're good, throw some new pistons and rings in it.
Originally Posted by Scubasteve88
The GEN 3 lnf is compatiable with all the missing parts that it doesn't come with?? Like the rest of my engine can complete it if I buy gen 3? Or will I need to buy all new parts to complete it?
the Gen 3 longblock is compatible with all your LNF stuff. you'll just have to unbolt it from the old engine and bolt it to the new one.
The rods at good for up to 400 the crank is good to like probably 1000. Maybe not that much but they are strong.
yeah, I could have been more specific. pistons are cast hypereutectic (yes, I had to google how to spell that) units. the rods are powdered metal forged rods. crank should be good for whatever you can throw at it.
thought I saw 500 and the TR10 was 660. I just not sure how much an EFR would put out. if the OP is talking about oversized valves, springs, rods, pistons, e85, cams... if he wants e85 with all those spendy bits in the engine, it tells me he wants to run a good amount of boost and timing which could go over 500hp and heatsoak the intercooler given his location.
yeah, I could have been more specific. pistons are cast hypereutectic (yes, I had to google how to spell that) units. the rods are powdered metal forged rods. crank should be good for whatever you can throw at it.
They should have left that powdered metal idea on the drawing board
They should have left that powdered metal idea on the drawing board
yeah, but then again, it holds all that plus more that GM intended the engine to be used for. Ford (international technically) also used powdered metal rods in 00-04 7.3 powerstrokes and im sure many other companies have done so as well.
Not entirely true. Model year 2000 7.3L got forged rods. The motor in my truck can take a good bit more boost than the PMR engines.
dang it, I KNEW someone would point that out. lol. they switched mid year to the powdered rods. ive seen people report both types of rods in their 00 trucks.
dang it, I KNEW someone would point that out. lol. they switched mid year to the powdered rods. ive seen people report both types of rods in their 00 trucks.
I thought the split year was in 2001. Anyway, it makes no difference for even +100HP tunes. It's when you want to make really big leaps in power that it matters.
So why exactly do they put these rods in? Cheaper for them, stronger in theory for the motor?at least thats how they sell it to the customer who gets an inferior rod for the same price for the truck.
It's just a cheaper part that can still exceed the needs of the application. There's no need to use such an expensive part that can handle a +150% power gain when a cheaper part is still good for +50%. The rod is only inferior when you go far beyond what the engine was originally meant to do.
01-09-2017, 04:57 PM
Moderator
