no_ss

iTrader: (2)

I bought
Southbend stage 4+ clutch
Fidenza Flywheel
Flywheel bolts
Clutch tube
master clutch cyl line
Master clutch cyl
Hydraulic elbow
Clutch alignment tool
New TOB
TOB Spacer
Treadstone lower charge pipes (hot and cold side)
New 90° silicone coupler
Redline MT-90 for the job

That's it I think.

double clutch

iTrader: (1)

Im getting the fidanza and southbend 4+ on friday. Im hoping the lighter flywheel doesnt make it too difficult to take off from a stop

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Nice man your prepping everything for the turbo swap smart guy

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

I think it'll be fine!

Yeah man. Next is injectors, stage one cams(hopefully), then valve springs.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Nice man I completely stop doing anything to my car, everything I change something out it doesn't seem to like it lol

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Whyyyyyyy

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Parts!

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Package 2 of 3

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Nice lol. Well that's what I say why lol

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man! Figure it out and keep modding!

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

I need to get some stuff squared away on the saab I just bought and then I'm going to start tearing the Balt apart to see what needs to be addressed

double clutch

iTrader: (1)

You bought my clutch lol. Zzp rescheduled my appointment with them and backordered me on the 4+ cause they ran out. Thanks

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

I didn't get mine through zzp. Went through local performance shop. Idk where he was able to get it but it was cheaper than zzp.

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Some progress pics.

Got to my buddies shop at midnight after I got off work. Moved cars and put mine on the lift. Stopped at 3:00a.m.

09CobaltSS1

Looks like you're removing the hubs. If so, you're kind of making more work for yourself that way. Just disconnect the lower control arm, sway bar end links and tie rods. The strut/hub/brake assembly can then be left hanging in place and is easily mananeuverable.

Some guys even leave all the suspension as a whole connected and just unbolt the strut assembly from the tower and lower everything together. That works just as good, but after doing about 2 dozen or so cobalt clutch jobs, it's not really my favorite method.

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Oh well it's halfway put back together.

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

So yeah don't use the TOB spacer if you're putting in a new clutch...

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Lol what did you do?

KMO43

The ZZP spacer is 1/4in which is silly. I'd think 1/8in would be huge. So with the spacer the tob was pushed into the pressure plate partially engaging the clutch so it slipped really bad. I don't even know if an adjustable master cylinder can back off far enough to be able to use that thick of a spacer

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

This is exactly what was happening ^

There were heat marks on the TOB where it was touching the pressure plate.

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

So 500 miles to break in new clutch?

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Put in lower hot side charge pipe today. Need a 2.5-2.75 coupler to install cold side charge pipe.

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I had backed into a wall at night out front of my house (I'll just keep this part short by I'm an idiot) I got my bumper repainted and I have all my charge piping in FINALLY. I've been running lower hot and cold side pipes until just now. Clutch is broke in so I can finally start sending some logs to Kmo43.

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Pics

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Why don't you post the pics with the new feature so they come out bigger?