blownnmanyways

2009 86k miles
Mods : Injen CAI, DC Sport Muffler. Stock Tune NO GMS1
I've owned the car for a little over 2 years I purchased it at 69k miles.

So the other day on the way home from work I was pulling away from the stop light and as I shifted into second my car started missing and the CEL started flashing, now this has happened before but it usually comes out of it in a couple seconds... well this time it didn't, I gimped it home. It does start just fine but misfires and has no power.

checked the codes and I got a code for the MAP sensor and a code for the Intake solenoid sensor.

I did some test myself, I changed the plugs. I did notice 3 of the 4 had a piece of the insulator tip missing, the plugs weren't that old I even shelled out for the NGK laser iridium's. Also just did an oil change about a month ago. I started the car up and started removing the plugs for the coils to see if the tone would change of the car and to my surprise I can remove 3 out of 4 coils and the car will still run and not change in sound or idle still sits there and misfires the same. No matter what 3 I remove it doesn't change I've tried all the different combinations.

I Also checked the intercooler out but I have not removed the bumper to check the front and I have not done a boost leak test yet.

I attempted to test the MAP sensor with a multimeter I wasn't getting any reading but im not sure if I was testing the right wire as to i couldn't find anything on it. I was testing the green one. I didn't get 5 volts out of any of the wires. I am how ever a noob at using a multimeter but it shouldn't be to hard? lol

Any ideas anyone? I ordered a MAP sensor and its on the way but wont be here till Wednesday, Ill probably get the intake and exhaust solenoid as well but my question is what wire do i test for those with my multimeter? I would like to test them before i just replace them.

**Also I do want to add that about a month ago I noticed my car was hitting 20psi(says the gauge) on stock tune and stock MAP sensor not GMS1. Could that be a sign that my MAP sensor was failing? Car was also starting to backfire more and more too. I wasn't sure if it was because the Injen and no tune.

Wert842

iTrader: (3)

Get ACDelco plugs. Lnfs are picky picky.

nismopowerdqg

Replace the faulty map sensor. Your car wont want to run with out that, its crucial to the ECU.

blownnmanyways

I ordered one its on the way. Just wont be here till Wednesday.

blownnmanyways

:/ Well I replaced the intake solenoid(got rid of the code) also replaced the MAP sensor. nothing changed car is acting exactly the same terribly missing. The MAP sensor code is still there as well? I know some one is bound to chime in and say the part could of been bad. If it is how do I test it?

is it possible to test the coils with a multimeter?
Im building a boost leak tester this weekend to check for a boost leak but other then that im out of ideas.

The codes I get are random misfires and cylinder 4 the most.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

The LNF has 2 map sensors, one I the intake mani (tmap) and a map in the cold side or lower charge pipe.

Did you try swapping the coil on plug from 4 to 1 and see if the misfire code moves?

blownnmanyways

I haven't tried swapping coils yet. I did unplug them all individually in different combinations to see if it would change tone. I can unplug any combination of 3 and its the same just have to leave the 1 in to keep it running. it sounds no different though when all 4 are plugged in as it does when only 1 is plugged in.

I'm aware of the 2 Map sensors I was throwing the code for the 1 on the intake manifold I went up today and got another new sensor and I was able to get rid of my map sensor code.

Now only codes I have are misfire on cylinder 2 and cylinder 4.

Tomorrow when I get time im going to check the timing and see if maybe it hasn't skipped a tooth. if it hasn't im going to build a boost leak tester and try that next.

If anyone else has any suggestions on things to test please let me know, I have the weekend off so I will have a little bit of time to mess with it some more.

blownnmanyways

went out and swapped the coils and the the misfire did not move.

******UPDATE*******The car cranks over for about 30 seconds before it starts. Sometimes seems maybe pressing the gas once helps???. It sounds like a Subaru and is backfireing like crazy. It does however seem to smooth out above 3k RPMs though? maybe a little? Cant boost over 5 PSI though.(drove it to the parts store 2 mins away, still getting same misfire codes for cylinder 2 and 4 all other codes are gone now as I replaced the intake VVT solenoid and the MAP sensor ontop of the intake manifold.

* If I cant figure it out tomorrow I will take a video and post it. If anyone would like to see or hear anything in particular please let me know.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Do a compression test, sounds like you've probably lost some of your ringland on cyl 4. Does your oil smell like a lot of gasoline?

Also you never told us about the code numbers which actually do help.

blownnmanyways

Ill smell the oil tomorrow. As far as the codes I was gimping it to the auto store to get them read, so I only remember reading the screen I didn't right down the code numbers. Im in the process of checking the timing but I had a hell of time getting that bolt that's in the middle of the lower timing cover because when I go to thread it all the way out the son of a bitch was hitting the side of the car so it wouldn't come out all the way??? is there a trick to that bolt? anyways I was trying to check the timing marks but I couldn't get the colored links to match up. From what I read im supposed to have 2 of 1 color up top? mine are green and a pink link? to me it looks like pink and green are closet together so they would need to be up top but isn't the ones up top supposed to be the same color? I also read something about it takes 42-46 revolutions to get them to match up so maybe im not even turning them enough. I did how ever have a piece of plastic fall out of the cover when I did get the bolt out not sure if I had broken it opening the cover or it broke itself ill post a pic here of it in a min.

blownnmanyways

blownnmanyways

I also made a boost leak tester today and tested for leaks. Nothing that I could hear, I did squirt soapy water on the joints. How much more work would it be from the point im at now to just replace the tensioner and chain? If its off time I defiantly plan to. I have the lower cover and valve cover(partially off, Cant get that line that goes to the turbo. I did remove the mounting bolt for it on the turbo but I still couldn't get it to pop off and I lost the dam bolt trying it) off. Do I have to remove the head to time the car? Ive never done a chain before ive done a belt on a Honda and ive done my DSM multiple times those ones you had to remove the head.

blownnmanyways

Ok now I just read something that said Green is supposed to be on intake, pink on exhaust and other green on the crank? judging by the pic I took it might be off? to know for sure It looks like I need to go rotate that bitch 40 more times tomorrow. If anyone knows what that broke piece is let me know ASAP and any tips on timing would help.


Edit: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...1_pri_larg.jpg

kinda looks like the left chain guide I cant be for sure till I go check it out tomorrow.

blownnmanyways

whats the best manual I can get for this car?

blownnmanyways

I keep trying to find info on how to time this thing. No one says how to set the cam gears and crank before you put the dam chain on it?!?!? I know in other cars I did I had to remove the head from the block turn the crank to the correct spot then drop the head on and put the belt on but this one no one mentions taking the head off?

blownnmanyways

I give up, bolted everything back up and towing it to the dealer tomorrow. Ill let you guys know what the outcome is.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

You'll turn and turn to get the timing marks lined back up. Did you do a compression or leak down test before diving into the timing?