iat 2 temps toooo high...
08-12-2014, 06:33 PM
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iat 2 temps toooo high...
Okay well I have tried and tried bt I cant seem to get my iat2 temps down. I have ottp front mount, dual pass, option b, new intercooler pump, phenolic spacer and ported blower. I even put some water wetter to try to lower the temps bt didnt work. Why cant I seem to ger my temps down??!.
please any advice or suggestions would be appreciated!
That pic is of my car at idle after driving for say about 15 minutes..
Driving Iat2 temps are just 5 to 10 degrees lower than idle.
please any advice or suggestions would be appreciated!That pic is of my car at idle after driving for say about 15 minutes..
Driving Iat2 temps are just 5 to 10 degrees lower than idle.
08-12-2014, 06:35 PM
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Water wetter with coolant won't help. Trick is water wetter and distilled water. Check to see if maybe the coolant lines are clogged. And if you're running any form if coolant don't mix colors. Mixing colors will clog the lines
08-12-2014, 06:45 PM
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Thats what im running actually just water and water wetter since its hot as hell down here. Also I can feel the pump working its not even 1 year old. The current in the hoses feels strong and I can see fluid coming out on top through the hose of the option b tank.
08-12-2014, 06:48 PM
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When did this start happening? Recent changes? As someone pointed out make sure there is no air in your system. i know because I had all the cooling upgrades you have and was seeing similar issues.
I turned out one I had air in the system. which eventually cleared. The system is every inefficient with ANY air in it
I turned out one I had air in the system. which eventually cleared. The system is every inefficient with ANY air in it
08-12-2014, 06:55 PM
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When did this start happening? Recent changes? As someone pointed out make sure there is no air in your system. i know because I had all the cooling upgrades you have and was seeing similar issues.
I turned out one I had air in the system. which eventually cleared. The system is every inefficient with ANY air in it
I turned out one I had air in the system. which eventually cleared. The system is every inefficient with ANY air in it
I used to have a stock blower on and would still see about 30 degree difference in iat and iat2 temps while cruising with listed mods. After the blower swap to the ported one temps rose? Idk how thats even possible tho? I swapped to a ported blower in hopes of decreasing temps a little.
08-13-2014, 12:58 AM
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on my car I filled the Option B tank right to the top and plugged the over flow.
I did a few hard runs and check and topped up. I kept doing this a few times over a week until all the air worked its way out. Each time I had to top up I noticed the system was working more efficiently.
I did a few hard runs and check and topped up. I kept doing this a few times over a week until all the air worked its way out. Each time I had to top up I noticed the system was working more efficiently.
08-13-2014, 07:51 AM
#12
1 the phenolic spacer is junk get rid of it
2 water wetter is designed to work will all coolants and you don't need to use the whole bottle a few ounces is plenty
3 do not plug the bleed line to the option b
4 to get the option b working after install leave all lines hooked up and elevate the tank with the lines pointing down that will get the bleed process started
5 you could have a weak pump
6 most of the time high temps are because there is air in the system
2 water wetter is designed to work will all coolants and you don't need to use the whole bottle a few ounces is plenty
3 do not plug the bleed line to the option b
4 to get the option b working after install leave all lines hooked up and elevate the tank with the lines pointing down that will get the bleed process started
5 you could have a weak pump
6 most of the time high temps are because there is air in the system
08-13-2014, 12:00 PM
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1 the phenolic spacer is junk get rid of it 2 water wetter is designed to work will all coolants and you don't need to use the whole bottle a few ounces is plenty 3 do not plug the bleed line to the option b 4 to get the option b working after install leave all lines hooked up and elevate the tank with the lines pointing down that will get the bleed process started 5 you could have a weak pump 6 most of the time high temps are because there is air in the system
2. Water wetter is designed to work with all coolants but it works best with distilled water
08-13-2014, 12:27 PM
#17
Read the threads.... your proof is on this site.
They usually end up causing an air leak, because they dont allow the intake mani gasket to seal properly. I have no idea how well it works or doesnt on an LNF. I'm speaking about the LSJ.
For the minute difference in IAT2's it may help with, they are not worth the hassel on our cars.
They usually end up causing an air leak, because they dont allow the intake mani gasket to seal properly. I have no idea how well it works or doesnt on an LNF. I'm speaking about the LSJ.
For the minute difference in IAT2's it may help with, they are not worth the hassel on our cars.
08-13-2014, 12:49 PM
#19
Check CED's website.
Go to the GMR dual pass and download the install instructions.
A picture of the restrictor can be found there.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Inte...10457C694.aspx
Go to the GMR dual pass and download the install instructions.
A picture of the restrictor can be found there.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Inte...10457C694.aspx
Last edited by Staged07SS; 08-13-2014 at 12:56 PM.
08-13-2014, 01:03 PM
#20
I ran the tests on the sc and there is no measurable difference as the entire engine assembly will normalize to a temp.. The installation and the sc positioning is problematical. The phenolic can leak. The LNF applies the same it think it's a bunch of kook aid ; the science of cooling does not support the application
08-13-2014, 01:09 PM
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I ran the tests on the sc and there is no measurable difference as the entire engine assembly will normalize to a temp.. The installation and the sc positioning is problematical. The phenolic can leak. The LNF applies the same it think it's a bunch of kook aid ; the science of cooling does not support the application
08-13-2014, 03:26 PM
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What I found and anyone can jump in to correct me.
When there was air in the system, Recovery after a pull was very slow and almost never came back to what seemed normal on a moderately hot day.
In my case I was on 2.8. Once i managed to get all the air out, the recovery was drastically better and would return to say 20 to 30 degrees from incoming air temp.
Even a mild pull where you see AIT2 rise should recover fairly quickly if the air is out of the system.
Al the above assumes AIR in the system is your issue.
As has been said a week pump or restriction (kinked hose) will also reduce the system efficiency I'm sure.
When there was air in the system, Recovery after a pull was very slow and almost never came back to what seemed normal on a moderately hot day.
In my case I was on 2.8. Once i managed to get all the air out, the recovery was drastically better and would return to say 20 to 30 degrees from incoming air temp.
Even a mild pull where you see AIT2 rise should recover fairly quickly if the air is out of the system.
Al the above assumes AIR in the system is your issue.
As has been said a week pump or restriction (kinked hose) will also reduce the system efficiency I'm sure.