PatZ24

Hi Guys,

i think you can help me to solve my problem. I have build new engine for my customer. The car is 2005-07 Cobalt SS LSJ.


I have forged L61 2007 HHR 58x engine block with stock crankshaft, eagle rod and wiseco. I have use stock ljs crank sensor on the L61.I have use LSJ head.

When i try to start i have some explosion but the engine wont start..... The reluctor wheel have both 58X. I im really confused about that.........

Do you think my crank sensor are bad? Can i use L61 3 wires sensor with 2 wires conversion for LSJ pcm???

Thank you and scuse me for my bad english!

Pat

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

the reluctor wheels on the 07+ l61 and the lsj are both 58x, however they are clocked differently. the missing teeth on the wheel are not in the same spot in relation to cylinder 1 top dead center. as a result the ocm thinks the engine is in a different spot than it is, and hence why it wont start.

im not sure of a work around for this. you might have to build an external crank trigger setup, or swap the entire wiring harness and computers.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

you need an external crank trigger set up like stated above or build the right engine using the lsj crank, rods, and pistons

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

you need to get a lsj relucter wheel and line up the dead spots and redrill new holes in the l61 relucter and bolt it on with the new holes

on the crank if its a stock crank it is not a forged unit

Speedytec

iTrader: (3)

Did you guys actually measure a later model L61 58x crankshaft and compared the trigger wheel with an LSJ crank??

I know the 2.4 crank timing has some 12 degrees difference, but here in Europe the later L61 engine with 58x trigger is called a Z22YH engine. (L61 = Z22SE).
We found that the Z22YH trigger timing is identical to an LSJ crank.

You can check the trigger marks with a timing wheel on the crank pulley (118-119degrees), but much easier to do like this:

- remove the crank sensor from the block, so you can see the toothed wheel. Maybe use a mirror and a flashlight so you can look in line with the bore.

- put the crankshaft pulley at TDC position mark. Remove the plugs so you can turn the crank easier. You should see 1 tooth almost at the center of the bore. It can be a little higher/lower than center, as the pulley has a bit play on the crank, but this is your 0 degrees tooth.

- now rotate the crankpuley slowly ANTICLOCKWISE and count echt new tooth that rotates through the center till you come to the last tooth before the trigger gap.

- each new tooth is 6 degrees rotation (360/60) and we counted 20 for an LSJ crank. So that's 20x6 = 120degrees.
Easy!