OPTION B - did i do this wrong? pics included
03-10-2013, 11:16 AM
#27
gelladuga option B is very easy, sometimes the kits are incomplete by my standards. routing though the radiator tie bar is an elegant solution to getting around the pulley. the issues to look for include stripped threads in the h/e and Y pieces instead of T so the fluid has an easy routing, along with protective conduit. Also the restrictor size is important and the cheap kits have crappy hose and crappy clamps etc. you get what you pay for...
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 03-10-2013 at 11:47 AM.
03-10-2013, 02:04 PM
#30
one definate problem that i have currently is the hose got a bit kinked up coming down from the resiovour... i think its good the rest of the way but its really hard to tell. my arms got all cut up last night trying to route all this ****... my arms look like i was cutting for bieber 
so maybe i'll have to replace the hose that zzp supplied with a better one that doesn't f*cking kink
p.s. thank you so much to everybody on helping me. means a lot!
so maybe i'll have to replace the hose that zzp supplied with a better one that doesn't f*cking kink
p.s. thank you so much to everybody on helping me. means a lot!
Last edited by riceburner; 03-10-2013 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-10-2013, 03:00 PM
#34
For the race cars Devon made an welded alloy Y connector that worked very nicely...
The rad tie bar has to be opened up a little to route the hose through it, a little silicone on the hose helps it through.
03-10-2013, 06:43 PM
#36
Oh NOW i know what you guys mean for the rad tie bar! Ok so maybe next weekend ill try that route... Def. Will just get some 90 hoses that just makes the most sense to get rid of these kinks. And some y connectors. Thanks!
For those with the option b how what are your iats usually at?
For those with the option b how what are your iats usually at?
Last edited by riceburner; 03-10-2013 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-10-2013, 06:49 PM
#37
Oh NOW i know what you guys mean for the rad tie bar! Ok so maybe next weekend ill try that route... Def. Will just get some 90 hoses that just makes the most sense to get rid of these kinks. And some y connectors. Thanks!
For those with the option b how what are your iats usually at?
For those with the option b how what are your iats usually at?
03-11-2013, 10:31 AM
#41
You want the coolant tank to be the highest point in the cooling system. Also, I recommend lifting the tank up when you first start filling it to help burp the system. This helps to jump start the bleeding process.
I would re-route your lines as well.
I would re-route your lines as well.
Last edited by Staged07SS; 03-11-2013 at 10:40 AM.
03-11-2013, 12:17 PM
#44
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Did you swap the laminovas positions?
Check the instructions here.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/pdfs/sidekit.pdf
Check the instructions here.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/pdfs/sidekit.pdf
Last edited by creepySS; 03-11-2013 at 12:24 PM.
03-11-2013, 01:07 PM
#48
I know 
and yesh i will post pics of what i did the other night... just gotta take em... even though i'm fairly confident with what i did wrong and what needs to be changed/improved. soon enough... my iat2's will be lower than my iat1's... mark my words
and yesh i will post pics of what i did the other night... just gotta take em... even though i'm fairly confident with what i did wrong and what needs to be changed/improved. soon enough... my iat2's will be lower than my iat1's... mark my words
03-11-2013, 01:24 PM
#50
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Not trying to thread jack but while everyone is on the cooling subject, Does anyone know how easy it is to install a dual pass on a cx racing h/e? been thinking about the option b + dual pass but now you guys are talking about these problems/cores being flipped has me confused/nervous lol
