TVS 1900 Blower
01-25-2017, 11:36 AM
#51
The amount of head work necessary to make this blower work on a 3.5 pulley requires more than what's available to purchase via "off the shelf" parts.
Supertech Valve Springs/Retainers
Head Porting
Ferrera .5mm oversized valves (Need to go larger)
Cams
At minimum, in attempt to keep the boost as low as possible. You'll need to have 2.4L of displacement.
Supertech Valve Springs/Retainers
Head Porting
Ferrera .5mm oversized valves (Need to go larger)
Cams
At minimum, in attempt to keep the boost as low as possible. You'll need to have 2.4L of displacement.
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01-31-2017, 01:30 AM
#54
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Guys this isn't about the 1320, it is about the 1900. Running a 1,9L blower which is 95% the size of the engine totally makes sense, because it essentially provides you with the powerplant of a medium sized V-6 and then becomes capable of V-6 #'s (mercury cougar, anyone?).
I ran a 1900 before and was very pleased with the results, making 643whp on a camaro dyno. 37psi. #wiiiiiinningggggg
I ran a 1900 before and was very pleased with the results, making 643whp on a camaro dyno. 37psi. #wiiiiiinningggggg
02-14-2017, 11:57 AM
#58
Junior Member
The amount of head work necessary to make this blower work on a 3.5 pulley requires more than what's available to purchase via "off the shelf" parts.
Supertech Valve Springs/Retainers
Head Porting
Ferrera .5mm oversized valves (Need to go larger)
Cams
At minimum, in attempt to keep the boost as low as possible. You'll need to have 2.4L of displacement.
Supertech Valve Springs/Retainers
Head Porting
Ferrera .5mm oversized valves (Need to go larger)
Cams
At minimum, in attempt to keep the boost as low as possible. You'll need to have 2.4L of displacement.
Noob question: what would be "wrong" with using the TVS1900 with the 3.5" pulley (biggest available) on a stock LSJ?
I understand that even though the TVS1900 on a 3.5" pulley would be spinning slower than the M62 on the factory 3.3" pulley, the tripled airflow potential of the TVS1900 would cause high PSI's..... let's say 25PSI as an example.
What would be "worse" about using a TVS1900 on a 3.5" pulley that create 25PSI boost pressure, as opposed to a TVS1320 on a ~3.0"pulley that would build 25PSI boost pressure?
02-14-2017, 01:55 PM
#59
Noob question: what would be "wrong" with using the TVS1900 with the 3.5" pulley (biggest available) on a stock LSJ?
I understand that even though the TVS1900 on a 3.5" pulley would be spinning slower than the M62 on the factory 3.3" pulley, the tripled airflow potential of the TVS1900 would cause high PSI's..... let's say 25PSI as an example.
What would be "worse" about using a TVS1900 on a 3.5" pulley that create 25PSI boost pressure, as opposed to a TVS1320 on a ~3.0"pulley that would build 25PSI boost pressure?
I understand that even though the TVS1900 on a 3.5" pulley would be spinning slower than the M62 on the factory 3.3" pulley, the tripled airflow potential of the TVS1900 would cause high PSI's..... let's say 25PSI as an example.
What would be "worse" about using a TVS1900 on a 3.5" pulley that create 25PSI boost pressure, as opposed to a TVS1320 on a ~3.0"pulley that would build 25PSI boost pressure?
Rotating mass, heat, and the fact that you're still out of the blowers efficiency range by roughly 5 PSI, regardless if your spinning it to 15,497 SC RPM @ 8000 engine RPM.
In a perfect world it would = a slight bump in HP.
At the end of the day, you need to choose the right sized (most efficient) blower for your bottom end and top end configuration.
You need to ask yourself:
How do would I achieve maximum flow and efficiency within the limitations of my configuration.
So if the TVS 1320 max PR is 2.2 (17.64 PSI), and 18,000 SC RPM.
You need to ensure you have an engine that can move as much air as it possibly can while staying within those limitations. Anything outside the efficiency chart generates more heat, and will further rob power to make power exponentially.
First wall you hit... The supplied 3.15 pulley on a box stock 9.5:1 2.0, 10:1 2.2, 10.5:1 2.4 is already outside or just within the TVS 1320's efficiency chart depending on the displacement used above.
Few ways to tackle this...
Say f**k it, go turbo.
Say f**k it, make extra heat, rob more power, and scrounge out as much power as you can with unnecessary PSI (pulleying down until its a moot)
or do it the right way
Bump compression even further, let the engine start doing the work for you.
Go beyond the gasket matched head (aggressive port, O/S valves) and pair w/ the OTTP stg4 and/or ZZP Stg 3 cams. These two are great aftermarket drop in cams w/ Supertech #75 that make power between 8000-8500 depending on blower/engine config.
But then you ask yourself... wait f**k... I'm hitting that efficiency wall again... How do I flow the same or more CFM, and make the blower rob less power.
Happy supercharging
02-15-2017, 07:27 AM
#60
TVS 1900 / 3.5 pulley / 6.78" ATI OS Dampener)
Rotating mass, heat, and the fact that you're still out of the blowers efficiency range by roughly 5 PSI, regardless if your spinning it to 15,497 SC RPM @ 8000 engine RPM.
In a perfect world it would = a slight bump in HP.
At the end of the day, you need to choose the right sized (most efficient) blower for your bottom end and top end configuration.
You need to ask yourself:
How do would I achieve maximum flow and efficiency within the limitations of my configuration.
So if the TVS 1320 max PR is 2.2 (17.64 PSI), and 18,000 SC RPM.
You need to ensure you have an engine that can move as much air as it possibly can while staying within those limitations. Anything outside the efficiency chart generates more heat, and will further rob power to make power exponentially.
First wall you hit... The supplied 3.15 pulley on a box stock 9.5:1 2.0, 10:1 2.2, 10.5:1 2.4 is already outside or just within the TVS 1320's efficiency chart depending on the displacement used above.
Few ways to tackle this...
Say f**k it, go turbo.
Say f**k it, make extra heat, rob more power, and scrounge out as much power as you can with unnecessary PSI (pulleying down until its a moot)
or do it the right way
Bump compression even further, let the engine start doing the work for you.
Go beyond the gasket matched head (aggressive port, O/S valves) and pair w/ the OTTP stg4 and/or ZZP Stg 3 cams. These two are great aftermarket drop in cams w/ Supertech #75 that make power between 8000-8500 depending on blower/engine config.
But then you ask yourself... wait f**k... I'm hitting that efficiency wall again... How do I flow the same or more CFM, and make the blower rob less power.
Happy supercharging
Rotating mass, heat, and the fact that you're still out of the blowers efficiency range by roughly 5 PSI, regardless if your spinning it to 15,497 SC RPM @ 8000 engine RPM.
In a perfect world it would = a slight bump in HP.
At the end of the day, you need to choose the right sized (most efficient) blower for your bottom end and top end configuration.
You need to ask yourself:
How do would I achieve maximum flow and efficiency within the limitations of my configuration.
So if the TVS 1320 max PR is 2.2 (17.64 PSI), and 18,000 SC RPM.
You need to ensure you have an engine that can move as much air as it possibly can while staying within those limitations. Anything outside the efficiency chart generates more heat, and will further rob power to make power exponentially.
First wall you hit... The supplied 3.15 pulley on a box stock 9.5:1 2.0, 10:1 2.2, 10.5:1 2.4 is already outside or just within the TVS 1320's efficiency chart depending on the displacement used above.
Few ways to tackle this...
Say f**k it, go turbo.
Say f**k it, make extra heat, rob more power, and scrounge out as much power as you can with unnecessary PSI (pulleying down until its a moot)
or do it the right way
Bump compression even further, let the engine start doing the work for you.
Go beyond the gasket matched head (aggressive port, O/S valves) and pair w/ the OTTP stg4 and/or ZZP Stg 3 cams. These two are great aftermarket drop in cams w/ Supertech #75 that make power between 8000-8500 depending on blower/engine config.
But then you ask yourself... wait f**k... I'm hitting that efficiency wall again... How do I flow the same or more CFM, and make the blower rob less power.
Happy supercharging
02-17-2017, 08:02 AM
#64
picked up over the hyd comps with less timing the car is seeing 16 to 17deg@8100 was at 22 to 23deg on the comp cams the iat2 was within 5deg of each other 175 to 180 on the dyno I am running a stock intake manifold also and this was on the same tvs 2.6 pulley and I lost almost 3lbs of boost with these cams the dyno was exactly 1year apart and was real close to the same outside temp it was 93deg on the hyd setup and 95on the solid the afr was set to 11.3 to 11.5 e85 going to let alan retune it in the spring
first pull to last while adjusting the cams
solid vs comp hyd
even though the solid cams are bigger they make horsepower and torque a few hundred rpm sooner
this is from a morning pass at test and tune 1.87 60ft 12.43 spinning the best so far is 12.20 on a 1.85 60 foot spinning
but you can see the timing and iat2
first pull to last while adjusting the cams
solid vs comp hyd
even though the solid cams are bigger they make horsepower and torque a few hundred rpm sooner
this is from a morning pass at test and tune 1.87 60ft 12.43 spinning the best so far is 12.20 on a 1.85 60 foot spinning
but you can see the timing and iat2
Last edited by mrbelvedere; 02-17-2017 at 10:32 AM.
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Slowbalt2000 (02-17-2017)
02-17-2017, 12:21 PM
#66
I also think the timing tensioner is collapsing I have a gmr mechanical to swap in with the billet guide
alan is going to retune it this spring after I get my single pass manifold done and on it it needs leaned out also with the new fuel system the car went a point rich the other cool thing is without changing a thing for the nitrous it picked up 13hp on the spray maybe it will pick up more this spring maybe it wont we will see
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SEDAN (02-27-2020)
02-17-2017, 03:11 PM
#68
the blanks were 110ea 175ea for cam grinding 1200 for the jesel lash adj setup you can get bates cheaper
I also think the timing tensioner is collapsing I have a gmr mechanical to swap in with the billet guide
alan is going to retune it this spring after I get my single pass manifold done and on it it needs leaned out also with the new fuel system the car went a point rich the other cool thing is without changing a thing for the nitrous it picked up 13hp on the spray maybe it will pick up more this spring maybe it wont we will see
I also think the timing tensioner is collapsing I have a gmr mechanical to swap in with the billet guide
alan is going to retune it this spring after I get my single pass manifold done and on it it needs leaned out also with the new fuel system the car went a point rich the other cool thing is without changing a thing for the nitrous it picked up 13hp on the spray maybe it will pick up more this spring maybe it wont we will see
GM ECOTEC Solid Lifters | eBay
02-17-2017, 04:06 PM
#70
Junior Member
Part Details JP0711
03-07-2017, 04:20 PM
#72
jbodyperformance also seems to have them, and they machine them 1.75mm longer than stock too...
Part Details JP0711
Part Details JP0711
03-07-2017, 06:06 PM
#73
Alan did not tune?
It was pushed as far as he wanted to push?
It's going to Alan?
Why would he only tune to 18* on a built engine with relatively low compression?
Or was it not making any power beyond 18?
At 12.5:1, and his unknown ZZP ground cams... Foximus stopped making power post 21.5-22*
Last edited by 100% METH; 03-07-2017 at 06:12 PM.
