WVU_SS goes turbo
05-28-2016, 03:39 PM
#79
^^^ You sir are correct. Nowhere had it. There's an AC delco which does the job as well that I ended up going with. Now if I could just get the fuel rail to stop leaking and the care to start, this would be great. I prime it, start it, it surges, then dies. Can't keep it running by giving it gas. Also smells pig rich.
05-28-2016, 09:47 PM
#80
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0_-...ature=youtu.be
Any thoughts guys? Air getting into the fuel system through the leak in the return setup?
Any thoughts guys? Air getting into the fuel system through the leak in the return setup?
Last edited by WVU_SS; 05-28-2016 at 10:08 PM.
05-29-2016, 08:06 AM
#82
I know that the maf is. I've checked that one multiple times, as it didn't want to go into the pipe very well. Primary O2 on the other hand I'll have to recheck. This could be the culprit, as I mistakenly installed that after the wideband sensor and had one hell of a time getting the connector to make it that far. The wife works retail, so she's sleeping till 11 today (I hate having different schedules) so I'll get to it a bit lter in the day.
05-29-2016, 12:59 PM
#87
So just ran through it all and everything's hooked up correctly. I'm back to the leak at the regulator connection in the fuel line. I've loaded the MAF table up with fuel, and with giving it gas, it wants to run. So my theory is that at idle, the pump can't maintain fuel pressure, however forcing gas through keeps enough pressure in the rail to keep it running, albeit very unhappily. And for the life of me, I can't get the leak to stop lol. Any know the size of the o-ring that goes at the end of the rail?
Last edited by WVU_SS; 05-29-2016 at 01:10 PM.
05-29-2016, 04:44 PM
#90
^^^ yessir I do. Right now rail pressure is 50#. Now that I looked at the spec, it's a bit high, so it'll be going down when I work on it again. I cleaned up most of the fuel leaks to get it to about a drip every 30 secs or so. Good enough to hold pressure with constant flow.
Played around with the tune a bit and increased demand by 30%. Got it to start and run on it's own, but damn it wasn't happy, still real lean. So I'll have to keep adding. Glad I turned it off after about 30 seconds. Have a pretty decent oil leak I've gotta track down. After that I may be in the clear.
Now I'm curious about this one, and I hope one of yall have a bit more info. Why do I need to command so much more fuel at idle (still e85) than I used to? I get that it's now blow through as opposed to suck through, but it should need the same amount of air to idle, should it not? Is it now more efficient that it's moving that much more air at startup?
Played around with the tune a bit and increased demand by 30%. Got it to start and run on it's own, but damn it wasn't happy, still real lean. So I'll have to keep adding. Glad I turned it off after about 30 seconds. Have a pretty decent oil leak I've gotta track down. After that I may be in the clear.
Now I'm curious about this one, and I hope one of yall have a bit more info. Why do I need to command so much more fuel at idle (still e85) than I used to? I get that it's now blow through as opposed to suck through, but it should need the same amount of air to idle, should it not? Is it now more efficient that it's moving that much more air at startup?
Moderator
05-29-2016, 08:45 PM
#92
It appears to be the same size. I was running the airbox mod originally, so it was a 3" pipe, however it had that terrible restriction in it. The new pipe starts at 2.5" and then tapers up to 3". I guess that the restriction really choked the blower settup down.
05-31-2016, 08:02 AM
#93
^^^ yessir I do. Right now rail pressure is 50#. Now that I looked at the spec, it's a bit high, so it'll be going down when I work on it again. I cleaned up most of the fuel leaks to get it to about a drip every 30 secs or so. Good enough to hold pressure with constant flow.
Played around with the tune a bit and increased demand by 30%. Got it to start and run on it's own, but damn it wasn't happy, still real lean. So I'll have to keep adding. Glad I turned it off after about 30 seconds. Have a pretty decent oil leak I've gotta track down. After that I may be in the clear.
Now I'm curious about this one, and I hope one of yall have a bit more info. Why do I need to command so much more fuel at idle (still e85) than I used to? I get that it's now blow through as opposed to suck through, but it should need the same amount of air to idle, should it not? Is it now more efficient that it's moving that much more air at startup?
Played around with the tune a bit and increased demand by 30%. Got it to start and run on it's own, but damn it wasn't happy, still real lean. So I'll have to keep adding. Glad I turned it off after about 30 seconds. Have a pretty decent oil leak I've gotta track down. After that I may be in the clear.
Now I'm curious about this one, and I hope one of yall have a bit more info. Why do I need to command so much more fuel at idle (still e85) than I used to? I get that it's now blow through as opposed to suck through, but it should need the same amount of air to idle, should it not? Is it now more efficient that it's moving that much more air at startup?
05-31-2016, 10:27 AM
#94
That's actually a real sweet gauge. I've just got the boring one that Josh sends with the return settup. It does the job. Got the last of the leaks taken care of with the fuel rail yesterday. On to figure out the oil leak tonight. I know it's coming from the oil feed tap in the block. I'm thinking the sealant I used on the threads is the issue. Gonna head to advance and see if a different sealant will solve the problem.
05-31-2016, 12:10 PM
#96
Is that stuff thicker? I used the permatex that I had to apply with my finger, and apparently got terrible results. ZZP recommends the GM grey sealant which is a silicone sealer, so I may be picking up a silicone based thread sealant.
06-01-2016, 09:30 AM
#100
I currently do as well. I'm not a happy camper right now.
My first thought is to try an extractor tool on it, since it's a decently soft metal, I'm hoping that it'll grab nice, and back right out. If that doesn't work, how'd you do the screwdriver trick? Just hammer 2 screwdrivers in opposite sides of the fitting, grab it with the vice grips in the middle and turn? I guess you could also go from the top down with the same approach. But any worries about screwing the threads up doing it that way?
I'm heading to Jegs tomorrow to grab a good stainless fitting.
But got it nice and snug yesterday. Went to take one last little turn to make sure it was in there good, and it started spinning much easier. I was originally afraid I stripped the threads. I guess this is the better alternate.
My first thought is to try an extractor tool on it, since it's a decently soft metal, I'm hoping that it'll grab nice, and back right out. If that doesn't work, how'd you do the screwdriver trick? Just hammer 2 screwdrivers in opposite sides of the fitting, grab it with the vice grips in the middle and turn? I guess you could also go from the top down with the same approach. But any worries about screwing the threads up doing it that way?
I'm heading to Jegs tomorrow to grab a good stainless fitting.
But got it nice and snug yesterday. Went to take one last little turn to make sure it was in there good, and it started spinning much easier. I was originally afraid I stripped the threads. I guess this is the better alternate.