07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Hoping to at least get the bottom end to a machine shop before the end of the month. Maybe the first week of march.

Still so much to do

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

mmm i love me some shiny new car parts thats a hell of a heat exchanger you have there, griffon im assuming?

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Zzp stealth. Got it for 200 bucks on black friday

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Oh awesome, i was ranting and raving on their FB when i got my catback for 280 something shipped down from almost 500. lol

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

I love my zzp catback. Sounded perfect with my ottp longtube. I'm surprised they stayed joined this long. I figured the bolts would have snapped from the opposing pressure...

sandman

iTrader: (4)

But the engine itself is pretty much all the same that they can be interchanged right? Just a new computer?

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

??

The engines are different, the computer is the same. The 2.4 just needs the 2 vvt solenoids wired in and a sensor.

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Or are you talking pretty 07 l61 vs 07 08 l61? Heads are different and different crank ring, and the different computer

Jesse

iTrader: (4)

I think he's talking about 07LE5 vs 08LE5.

If you mean between the 07 vs 08 LE5 yeah they should be the same. Just no forged internals on the 2008+ engine, and 08+ has the E37 vs the earlier E67. However, tuning the two is almost identical also. E37 has VVT tables.

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

lol the one combo i didnt consider. 08 has a different intake manifold too

sandman

iTrader: (4)

I'm definitely gonna throw a LE5 in my car lol

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

You dont know the power of the dark side of the force, muhahaha.

sandman

iTrader: (4)

I will soon hahaha

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Everyone is going to the dark side, and I'm just over here hacksawing everything

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

lol your doin a good job, trust me id be complaining and getting infractions if i didnt like something here. I wasnt nearly as meticulous when I rebuilt my LE5 last year, i was tired, fresh out of surgery, fed up with the problems i was having with it and just wanted the car back. I honed the block with my flex hone, sanded the deck with a flat block of glass and 600 grit to clean it off and get a decent finish for the head gasket, and measured the bearings and rings and reassembled everything after washing the block out thoroughly. I spent 3 weeks waiting for a tap and drill bit for the absolutely retarded thread size of the piston oil squirters which stripped out and had to be drilled out.

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

2.2s don't have oil squirters. I debated buying a zzp girdled block, but that's a grand I would rather not spend.

It's a Gen 2 block and lnfs push them past 450hp. I hope to be around 400 all the time, with an occasional 35 shot

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Blower 400 is like turbo 450+ in terms of stress, but everything is getting balanced, so that should take a bit of unnecessary stress off everything. I will still be at the limits of the block, but it should be okay

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Block and parts are going to the machine shop this sat.

Does anyone think I should go for an lsj oil pan for the extra capacity? I know the standard one will be fine, but any additional capacity helps. Any reason not to go to an lsj pan?

Jesse

iTrader: (4)

What work are you having the shop do?

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Balance the rotating assembly, hone the block with a tq plate, line bore, and resurface the mating surfaces. And probably just assemble it while it's there and check all the clearances

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Any particular reason your line boring the mains? That's usually not standard rebuild policy.

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

The guy just blasted off all of what was included in my quote. I am going to work out the details with them on sat. It's the shop that Arm recommended to me/uses (have done many ecotecs), so I would assume they know what's up.

I also drilled and tapped my manifold for a bleeder port. ZZP stealth has a fill cap and is very easy to bleed, so they recommend tapping the manifold for the bleeder. makes sense because it is the highest point of the system.

Marked by their procedure.


The crease seemed like a better point than the cross, so I punched my mark there.


Drilled a small pilot hole to reduce the risk of the drill creeping


Full size hole


1/8 NPT tap and drill bit


Tapped


You can see the location here. The hole is slightly off the very highest point, but it is very close. The manifold is slightly off angle so it looks a bit over-exaggerated, but it's pretty damn close.


I still need to clean the manifold, but I threaded in the nipple to see where I was at. It is snug here, but not vertical. once I add thread sealant and tighten it down, it should tighten up vertical. I just didnt want to tighten it down too much and loosen the threads.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Good idea with the bleeder port, thats probably something I should do as well. It's been too cold in the garage to even bother with anything lately. lol

sandman

iTrader: (4)

shiny manifold lol

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

i got it new from mongo after I smashed up the original one I had haha. The cores had metal shavings in them and were basically spot welded in with rust. I had to tighten down the hose clamps so much to keep them from sliding off that I collapsed the end of 2 cores. The fins were salvageable, but as I was cleaning them I realized that I has effed up the core ends. it was mild enough damage (didnt even notice until I was all done) that it probably would have been okay, but I didnt want to risk it.

I just said eff it and got a new one. It was an expensive mistake haha