Jesse

iTrader: (4)

yeah you'll be fine. If you have doubts just disconnect the harness at the plug and run it that way until you feel comfortable cutting it.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Yes, i have mine removed completely. Although you will fail visual inspection without it.

Jesse

iTrader: (4)

If you have inspections.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Jesse

iTrader: (4)

Hey calm down. Don't make me tell you how low our vehicle tax is too!

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Lol what's an inspection?!?

Hahaha catalytic what?

sandman

iTrader: (4)

mines been unplugged and chilling for over a year. my CEL has been on for that long lol

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Made some progress on the harness. I un loomed enough to be able to work with it, but kept some of it on just to keep it orderly until the final clean up/loom.

I pulled:
-AC compressor clutch
-AC line pressure
-Evap solenoid
-Alternator plug

I have been running a high output alternator for a while now that doesnt have a plug on it. It just throws a dummy light on the dash, which is easy to remedy. I decided to keep it and just a 6 rib pulley for it because I have a big 4 channel amp, a bunch of gauges, bottle heater, and the nitrous solenoids. It obviously wont all be used at once, but It is still nice to keep the juice available at idle for the heater and stereo. I already have the alternator, so it's not going to hurt.

I still have to pull the rear o2 sensor wires, but that should be the end of it. It was too cold to look which plug was for the rear o2, but I have plenty of time for that.

Loom pulled off:


factory loom and tape


What I pulled


How it sits now. It doesnt look very different, but the branches are significantly thinner now. pretty much all of the strands can use the next size loom smaller now, which will look much cleaner, and be easier to route cleanly.



Once I get the engine assembled on the subframe, I'm going to finish up the harness and decide on how it will be routed. The only thing that I will intentionally shorten is the throttle body harness. I have to cut it anyway to wire for the 8pin plug, and it can have an easy 2 feet taken out of the harness.

That way I can button the harness up outside of the bay, final assemble/attach the harness to the engine, and then just plug it in when I slide the engine in. No messing around with it in the bay.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

ugh wiring harnesses lol

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

it wasnt really as much as a cluster eff as I had expected. The way it is loomed from the factory is just terrible. It's really an all or nothing deal haha.

I have an old thread that I cleaned up a lot of the harness while it was still in the car. Lets just say I bled a lot hahaha

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Oh i know what your goin through, I redid the factory harness on my integra. The nice thing about honda's that GM doesnt do is that they put disconnects at various points across the engine bay on both sides. The engine harness comes off in this nice small cluster that you can deal with, GM cars..not so much.

Yours doesnt even look that complex, i had 3 plugs for the auto trans, 3 ECU connectors and 1 trans connector on mine.

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

It still bugs the **** out of me that the option b has to be there now that the rest of the bay is going to be so clean. I mean technically it doesnt have to be there if the system is fully bled, but function> form. it will still look clean, but i wish it didnt have to be there. Besides the tank and 2 lines, there will be zero harness or anything on that half of the bay. even the a/c line is gone.

I was talking to bmxracerchamp about this, and he had previously wanted to get a single tank made with 2 chambers. Something like the old vulcans, but with a divider. I also considered running both coolant systems off of the same oem surge. It technically would work if I used the same coolant and ratio. Just add another bleeder port to the tank, and T off the main line off the surge. The systems dont cycle anything significant through the surge, so it's not like either system would affect the other.

The only downfall is if there is a leak in one of the systems, you wouldnt easily be able to tell which system was draining the surge. in other words, if the tank was low, you wouldn't know if the engine or intercooler system was consuming it. It would just potentially make diagnostics a pain in the ass

I am still considering this as a possibility, but will probably just run the standard option b tank and deal with it.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

IMO I wouldnt combine the two systems, the water in the surge tank still gets just as hot as the water in the engine, the system will always even out in temperature as long as water is in contact with water from the engine block/radiator regardless of whether or not it flows rapidly through the surge tank. If it was just a traditional overflow style system Id say sure, run it on a single tank, but because of the way the sealed systems work I just wouldnt advise it. Not to mention the fact that the surge tank for the cooling system is pressurized to 16psi where as the laminova cores are only designed to be pressurized to 5psi, the seals will not hold anymore then that, thats why it has a 5psi radiator cap on the T-fitting.

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

I didn't consider the pressure differences. good call.

Speaking of, I think the option B has a 15psi cap because it is just the ion factory overflow. So without the T fill cap, you dont really have the pressure failsafe

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

You can get away with it on the option B tank being separate because the system doesnt get hot enough to build that kind of pressure, but your right it doesnt have a pressure failsafe.

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

I also thought about trying to mount it under the passenger headlight, that would be too low in relation to the rest of the system.

if you didn't notice, the thought of the tank is killing me. It will be fine once it's in, but I can still bitch about it for now haha

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

my hood is never open enough to care what it looks like under there lol goin fast is all i care about, already lost a nice chunk of my brand new rims to NJ roads. -_-

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

My bay was relatively clean compared to stock. I am just putting so much work into this, I might as well put the extra effort into the bay.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

only real reason i have for taking the harness apart and cleaning it up is for reliability and ease of use next time i have to work on the car lol every cobalt i have seen seems to have the harness all broken apart in various sections which leads to frayed wires, which scares the bejesus out of me. I already have to repair a fractured harness and exposed wires for a rear abs sensor that goes around the spring mount.

Jesse

iTrader: (4)

You could always make a cover out of plastic or sheet metal to hide your option B... Not horribly hard.

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Im not concerned with wires rubbing and fraying. Im not prioritizing a "wire tuck" look , I just want everything clean and simplified. Im not going to run wires in sketchy/risky ways just to hide them. Like I said, I still believe in function>form...but if I can squeeze the form in while I'm at it, Im going to lol

Abs? what's that?
lol I dont even have cruise

Its not the tank itself that offends me. It's that there was so much clean, open space that has to be taken away.

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

Today is the day I'm going to start packing everything up to make the trip to indiana early Saturday morning. I've been collecting parts for 2 winters, and I'm finally headed to the machine shop.

If only it was a bit warmer, I would get the block and trams out, and pull the dash. At this point I'm just waiting on 20-30 degrees haha

sandman

iTrader: (4)

Same here

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

I have power locks and windows though

toolman

That's how pipe threads work. They have a slight cone shape to the hole & fitting. They fit really loose up until the last bit of thread, and then they tighten like a ****. That's why you don't run a npt tap all the way through the hole you're tapping; you'll lose the self-sealing attribute of the npt hole and fitting. It also makes it a bit of a challenge if you are trying to orient a 90* fitting.