Block interchangability?
11-28-2016, 05:50 PM
#1
Block interchangability?
I'm just trying to plan ahead and this may be a stupid question but are there any blocks that are interchangeable with the L61 block? I haven't pulled the head yet but just in case I have a cracked sleeve I am trying to consider my options. I live where there aren't really any shops around that I know of that I would trust to install replacement sleeves in my engine but then again I don't know much about it. It appears that with aftermarket sleeves getting the head gasket to seal becomes a problem.
So I am basically wondering what my options would be besides pressing out and installing new sleeves. Are any of the blocks interchangeable or would I have to source a new or junkyard treasure L61 specific block? Specifically I am wondering if any of ZZP's prepared blocks would work or not. I'm thinking not but I honestly have no idea.
So I am basically wondering what my options would be besides pressing out and installing new sleeves. Are any of the blocks interchangeable or would I have to source a new or junkyard treasure L61 specific block? Specifically I am wondering if any of ZZP's prepared blocks would work or not. I'm thinking not but I honestly have no idea.
11-28-2016, 06:10 PM
#2
when you break a sleeve its not typically just the liner that breaks, its the aluminum that supports the sleeve that breaks as well, rendering the block junk. starting with another block, you could sleeve it. the darton sleeve kits are now typically considered "race only" as they affect cooling in a large way, and head gasket sealing is an issue unless you o-ring the head. there is another member on here with some better sleeves that can be run on the street, cant remember the deal with them though. the zzp girdled block would be the way to go, they are proven to 900whp and have none of the cooling issues the darton sleeves cause.
as far as a build goes, all the ecotec blocks are interchangable, however there are some differences to be aware of. there are 2 different bore sizes, 86mm and 88mm. the 2.0l and 2.2l use the 86mm bore, the 88mm is used for the 2.4l. there are also 3 generations of blocks, gen 1 blocks are all 86mm bore, and gen 2 and 3 used both 86 and 88mm. gen 3 blocks are the stongest and best to build. gen 2 blocks are said to be stronger than a gen 1 block, however the gen 2 blocks are known to be porous so most shy away from them.
you can build some different combinations of displacement with the ecotec blocks. using factory cranks you could use an 86mm bore block to build a 2.0l, 2.2l and 2.3l (im not aware of anyone thats built a 2.3l), and the 88m block could build a 2.1l, 2.3l and 2.4l.
as far as a build goes, all the ecotec blocks are interchangable, however there are some differences to be aware of. there are 2 different bore sizes, 86mm and 88mm. the 2.0l and 2.2l use the 86mm bore, the 88mm is used for the 2.4l. there are also 3 generations of blocks, gen 1 blocks are all 86mm bore, and gen 2 and 3 used both 86 and 88mm. gen 3 blocks are the stongest and best to build. gen 2 blocks are said to be stronger than a gen 1 block, however the gen 2 blocks are known to be porous so most shy away from them.
you can build some different combinations of displacement with the ecotec blocks. using factory cranks you could use an 86mm bore block to build a 2.0l, 2.2l and 2.3l (im not aware of anyone thats built a 2.3l), and the 88m block could build a 2.1l, 2.3l and 2.4l.
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jdbaugh1 (11-28-2016)
12-01-2016, 05:15 PM
#4
I hit up ZZP and they gave me quite a bit of useful information so I thought I would share here:
2.0, 2.2, and 2.4 have swappable parts.
2.0 and 2.2 are the same block (86mm bore) but the 2.0 has piston squirters. You can add them to other blocks but the cost doesn’t make it worth it normally when building the blocks. Better to just start with a 2.0 block.
Being that the parts are interchangeable it doesn’t make sense when building a 2.2, to stay at 2.2 liters. You’re better off with a 2.4 block (88mm bore) or using 2.0 parts.
Assuming you have the right year parts, you can bolt any head on any block w/o any issue. The flywheels and cranks and balancers, everything interchanges. The 2.2 and 2.4 cranks are cast with 6 flywheel bolts. They use the same flywheel and we make a 9.5” flywheel with 6 bolts so that you can use those cranks with the larger 2.0 clutches.
Otherwise for strength in boosted applications, you want a 2.0 crank as it is the only forged crank.
You can use a 2.4 block with 2.4 pistons and 2.0 crank to achieve 2.1 liters. Then you have the strength with more displacement. Each route has some pros and cons depending what you’re doing.
Most 2.2 guys on a budget, I recommend swapping to a stock gen 3 2.4 bottom end, this only works on 08+ 2.2 because on 2007 and older, the reluctor wheel is cast into the crankshaft. All the other parts you already own will bolt right on it and the motors are available cheap. The 2.4 parts are stronger than stock 2.2 parts as well so you can run 10psi safely on stock parts but only 5psi on 2.2 bottoms. Going past that, you can run forged rods/pistons in either 2.0 or 2.4 and still be better off than trying to run forged 2.2 parts.
If you have a 2008 or newer 2.2, the gen 3 2.4 bottom is a direct bolt in and your existing clutch will also bolt right up. If you want to go to a 2.0 crank, you have to change the clutch/flywheel which may need to be done if you are boosting anyway.
2.0, 2.2, and 2.4 have swappable parts.
2.0 and 2.2 are the same block (86mm bore) but the 2.0 has piston squirters. You can add them to other blocks but the cost doesn’t make it worth it normally when building the blocks. Better to just start with a 2.0 block.
Being that the parts are interchangeable it doesn’t make sense when building a 2.2, to stay at 2.2 liters. You’re better off with a 2.4 block (88mm bore) or using 2.0 parts.
Assuming you have the right year parts, you can bolt any head on any block w/o any issue. The flywheels and cranks and balancers, everything interchanges. The 2.2 and 2.4 cranks are cast with 6 flywheel bolts. They use the same flywheel and we make a 9.5” flywheel with 6 bolts so that you can use those cranks with the larger 2.0 clutches.
Otherwise for strength in boosted applications, you want a 2.0 crank as it is the only forged crank.
You can use a 2.4 block with 2.4 pistons and 2.0 crank to achieve 2.1 liters. Then you have the strength with more displacement. Each route has some pros and cons depending what you’re doing.
Most 2.2 guys on a budget, I recommend swapping to a stock gen 3 2.4 bottom end, this only works on 08+ 2.2 because on 2007 and older, the reluctor wheel is cast into the crankshaft. All the other parts you already own will bolt right on it and the motors are available cheap. The 2.4 parts are stronger than stock 2.2 parts as well so you can run 10psi safely on stock parts but only 5psi on 2.2 bottoms. Going past that, you can run forged rods/pistons in either 2.0 or 2.4 and still be better off than trying to run forged 2.2 parts.
If you have a 2008 or newer 2.2, the gen 3 2.4 bottom is a direct bolt in and your existing clutch will also bolt right up. If you want to go to a 2.0 crank, you have to change the clutch/flywheel which may need to be done if you are boosting anyway.