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Thanks for the reminder. I know who you're talking about and looked up the thread. 62% duty cycle with 2.6" pulley on an LSJ. I should be fine with 42 lb injectors.
I am nearly maxing out 60lb injectors on my Turbo 2.4, estimated 380 fhp and running rich 0.75-0.78 lambda. I didn't dyno it with the 40lb? ford injectors that came with the car, but pushing the car beyond 12 psi maxed those out.
He only had 91 available. I won't be looking at a 2.6" pulley like in his setup but will stick with stock pulley for now with possibly going to 2.8 maybe later. Reliability until this setup is proven is a must. We go where the nearest village may be hours away and there may not be another boat pass by that year. I'm not looking at going that aggressive and also will be cooling with peak river water temps reaching 60 degrees but usually in the low 40 to upper 30s.
I am nearly maxing out 60lb injectors on my Turbo 2.4, estimated 380 fhp and running rich 0.75-0.78 lambda. I didn't dyno it with the 40lb? ford injectors that came with the car, but pushing the car beyond 12 psi maxed those out.
injector duty cycle is highly dependent on engine RPM
injector duty cycle is highly dependent on engine RPM
I like to learn more here. When I researched how to calculate / estimate injector size, they don't ask for RPM but expected horsepower, # of cylinders, and target Duty Cycle % which then outputs the standardized injector flow rate. With that, Algebra says HP output correlates to Injector Duty % within reason.
HP is also based on RPM. The guys running these in boats arent running them for peak HP numbers, but rather the broad flat torque curve that can be had from 2500-5000 rpm. If you log your car you will he able to tell IDC goes up with rpm and almost always peaks at redline.
If I used that website calculator correctly it looks like I'll be good even if need a smaller pulley. My goal isn't max HP but a good balance between load capacity and economy. I have to carry all my fuel for a hunt/fish trip and that weight adds up giving a diminishing return on increasing power. This is the biggest reason I went to the ecotec engine.
Thank you you all for the continued discussion.
I'll have to post my waterproof relay harness I made and the new stand alone harness but I'll probably wait until I get an exhaust and some warm weather to get this engine going.
HP is also based on RPM. The guys running these in boats arent running them for peak HP numbers, but rather the broad flat torque curve that can be had from 2500-5000 rpm. If you log your car you will he able to tell IDC goes up with rpm and almost always peaks at redline.
I have one of those slow start light bulbs in my brain. My original comment was to provide a fuel injector sizing anecdote for a boosted 2.4 LE5, and I think you were a bit too trusting in my assumptions about the application being a boat which I did not consider deeply.
OP did confirm his application and I see where you're coming from now and I agree his application is more unique; so land-based automotive would see redline where we don't expect that performance out of OP's boat.. I am aware of what pleasure boats go through and I cringe whenever captains hold their boats at 4,000+ RPM while "cruising" across the lake.
If I used that website calculator correctly it looks like I'll be good even if need a smaller pulley. My goal isn't max HP but a good balance between load capacity and economy. I have to carry all my fuel for a hunt/fish trip and that weight adds up giving a diminishing return on increasing power. This is the biggest reason I went to the ecotec engine.
Thank you you all for the continued discussion.
I'll have to post my waterproof relay harness I made and the new stand alone harness but I'll probably wait until I get an exhaust and some warm weather to get this engine going.
I would find it interesting to see your electronics waterproofing strategy! My old 1996 Sportster I picked up last fall has what appears to be an industrial junction-box / enclosure (just like the one linked there) with industrial type cable glands, basically stuff you would find in a manufacturing plant is why I labeled industrial.
Update:
Now that we are finally thawing out and I was collecting supplies over the winter.
I was able to do some things in the house.
My water to water heat exchanger
The amazing wiring harness from Steve Humphries
All labeled for installation
Making my own dual pass. Tapped with 1/2" NPT. Clearance is very tight by the oil filter housing but there's just enough to slip a hose on there. A 90degree might have gained me a little space but I would have to do another bend later since my water supply is coming from that direction anyway.
My relay for the hydraulic pump. Just used a Pelican case to house them. It's very compact and almost waterproof. A little silicon at the wire exit and it will be waterproof.
Boost adjusted fuel pressure regulator with return. The LE5 is a returnless system.
Playing with HP Tuners and trying to understand it.
The water jacketed manifold and mounting plates from Jetboatbase in New Zealand. Don't even ask what that ran with shipping. More than the motor that's for sure.
Everything finally together. I just need a few minor things ready and start tuning.
Quick rundown:
2007 LE5
M62 supercharger, stock pulley
LSJ TB
2.5 bar LSJ TMAP
Dual pass endplate
42lb Bosche Green Giant injectors
Stand alone wiring harness
2.5" water jacketed exhaust
AEM wideband location TBD. I will either have an adapter plate made between manifold and riser (closer to exhaust ports than recommended) or maybe use Innovate Motorsports 3728 Exhaust Clamp. I would keep the exhaust open so no water reversion would potentially come in contact with the sensor.
I will be needing to SD tune with this application. As much as I have read and played with HP Tuners I am still apprehensive to doing my own tuning. I'll try to attach my stock tune if anyone wants to help.
Here's the motor almost ready to go in the boat. I know there are a few connectors, vacuum lines, etc. to finish. If anyone sees something that makes you go "Holy cow. That thing is going to blow up." please feel free to chime in. This is the first time taking something like this on and community support has been my only help so far.
Last edited by AKLiving; 05-01-2017 at 08:47 PM.
Reason: adding specs
getting started with SD is going to be tough in my opinion because you have no idea what the VE will be in boost and shooting darts isnt exactly a safe process.
Having the maf hooked up, you can cruise around out of boost, see what your fueling error is, and then adjust the entire curve by a percentage until you feel its good enough down low to bring it into a higher airflow area and test it. Once you have the MAF close, you can log that against VE airflow in the scanner to start creating your VE table.
Other wise youre kinda just guessing the first few times into boost which could be potentially harmful to the engine.
I will be starting to create a VE map for my car once the damn thing will run that i could share with you to get you started. obviously mine will be more airflow, the shape of the table should be similar.
I would think, although I haven't looked personally, that there are some ecotec SD tunes out there from rock buggy use and such. I'd see what HPT has in the repository, or worst case, pay a company like alpha fab for a base SD tune to get you started. As said above, it's not really a guessing game, you need to be in the rough ballpark to begin with.
Well, countless hours of learning, work, and more learning.
I see that there is much more needed in my pipe soldering skills and understanding of tuning.
I tried to find a FI tune similar to what I need but couldn't even get that to fire up (fuel injectors wouldn't open) and a face full of fuel after one popped of while checking I went back to the stock tune with minimal changes. It runs really lean, AFR 16.5, and idles at 2,900 rpm.
Quick recap:
2007 LE5
LSJ S/C parts
LSJ TB (scaled for this in HPT)
AEM Wideband
42lb Bosch Green Giants
Stock throttle pedal that came with the car/motor/ECM
I'll check for leaks which shouldn't be hard since I don't have a bunch of emissions stuff. I could have missed capping a line. Throttle is as closed as it gets.
Now that it at least runs I'll try to look at some FI tunes and adjust a little at a time.
It is nice to see the cooling system work. Once the thermostat opened the exit side of the copper exchanger was only warm to the touch.
Last edited by AKLiving; 06-04-2017 at 11:38 AM.
Reason: Add
Moderator
03-17-2017, 03:42 PM
