LE5 gen3 block info
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
LE5 gen3 block info
I am trying to find more info about a 2.4 LE5 gen 3 block with the closed deck.
I was asking about if I need a better block to make 600 bhp in addition to forged pistons, am rods, studs, and springs; and was directed to Cobaltss.net
The car is turbocharged with a Precision 5558.
Where can we find this block? What year/make/models have this block? Is this a direct bolt on solution for a 2006 LE5 intake / exhaust / belt driven accessories /engine mounting /etc.?
I was asking about if I need a better block to make 600 bhp in addition to forged pistons, am rods, studs, and springs; and was directed to Cobaltss.net
The car is turbocharged with a Precision 5558.
Where can we find this block? What year/make/models have this block? Is this a direct bolt on solution for a 2006 LE5 intake / exhaust / belt driven accessories /engine mounting /etc.?
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I am still trying to find this information. For a minute I thought the LCV Gen3 was what I needed, then looking at the block pictures, it's not possible completely different. Then I was put on to the LUK engine block, but I can't find any LUK engine block pictures to see if it is closed deck.
Bump it up, is the LUK engine the closed deck short block I am seeking, compatible with the LE5 head, rotating assy, accessory drive, starter, etc?
Bump it up, is the LUK engine the closed deck short block I am seeking, compatible with the LE5 head, rotating assy, accessory drive, starter, etc?
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steelmesh (10-14-2016)
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#6
#7
#8
From what I can understand, the blocks are similar, but the heads are different due to LEAs being DI. GEN 3s are sand cast, which is the way I would like to go. Connecting rods are also forged on the LEA. I can buy a used LEA with 65k miles as I can an LE5 with 200k on it. Unless someone can give me a reason why I can't mate an LEA block with and LE5 head, I think this would be a good, cheap performance engine. I'm not looking for 800 hp, but a stable 4-500 wouldn't be bad.
#10
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
If you cannot afford a $2000 zzp girdled block you cannot afford to build a reliabke 600hp car. At that level in a 4 cylinder things become expensive and last thing you should be trying to skimp on in a bottom and top end.
You might have skills to assemble the car, fabricate etc etc but yor skills cannot change block strength, cylinder pressure and so forth.
The lea head will not work. The bottom end will work but the pistons and rods will not hold the power. If you intend to use that power and i dont mean doing some dyno pulls and occasional highway pulls then its questionable if that block will sustain that power for longer periods of time. None of these blocks will hold that untouched for ever.
My opinion is spend the money for reliability up front because when something breaks it becomes more expensive
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Scythe_Snake (02-13-2017)
#12
#13
And $150 to ship. I can buy an LE5 out of a wreck in town for 300, and an LEA for $450 shipped off eBay. Two complete engines. I don't need a block that can handle 800 hp because, where am I going to find an F23 that can handle it on a daily basis? ZZP has already gotten $3500 out of me in the last three months, and I haven't even been able to have fun with it. Nothing against them, but just because I can afford it, doesn't make it logical.
I only paid $3000 for the car in October.
I only paid $3000 for the car in October.
#15
We use the LAF/LEA block all day with LE5 heads making 500+ HP. It is a semi-closed deck but gussets where the GEN 2 LE5 block lacked. Mostly behind the #4 cylinder wall and along the radial edges.
-AFI
-AFI
#16
That is my goal. But this all contradicts a lot what what ZZP told me. Maybe they are just trying to make a sale, but they said LE5 couldn't go past 350 without forged internals and then the block was in danger past that, same with the transmission. If I can safely put down 375-400 with the LE5 then I'll stick with it.
#20
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
lol. i keep looking at this block and considering it too. im thinking in the future i want to build a 2.4l short block for my 944 with the ultimate goal of around 600 whp. a girdled block is a must, and its so tempting to be able to save $1500 (im in canada so its really $2k to me).
how many 2.4l gen 2 blocks do you hear about with the cracking/porous problem? i can say ive only read about the lnf will that problem.
how many 2.4l gen 2 blocks do you hear about with the cracking/porous problem? i can say ive only read about the lnf will that problem.
#22
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
I have never heard of an le5 being porus. Ive worked in these things for years and never had a porus le5 block. I have seen a few lnfs but even then people inflate the numbers with how many really exsist. Since the cobaltscame out in 08 and ive been working with the lnf in the sky redlines since 07 i have maybe see 3-5 porus blocks out hundreds. I have owned 2 09 cobalts as well which everyone claims to have this issue and both have made decent power and never had been porus although its a possibility any can be porus.
Keep in mind a le5 will only take power with good tuning like anything else.
Keep in mind a le5 will only take power with good tuning like anything else.
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If you cannot afford a $2000 zzp girdled block you cannot afford to build a reliabke 600hp car. At that level in a 4 cylinder things become expensive and last thing you should be trying to skimp on in a bottom and top end.
You might have skills to assemble the car, fabricate etc etc but yor skills cannot change block strength, cylinder pressure and so forth.
The lea head will not work. The bottom end will work but the pistons and rods will not hold the power. If you intend to use that power and i dont mean doing some dyno pulls and occasional highway pulls then its questionable if that block will sustain that power for longer periods of time. None of these blocks will hold that untouched for ever.
My opinion is spend the money for reliability up front because when something breaks it becomes more expensive
You might have skills to assemble the car, fabricate etc etc but yor skills cannot change block strength, cylinder pressure and so forth.
The lea head will not work. The bottom end will work but the pistons and rods will not hold the power. If you intend to use that power and i dont mean doing some dyno pulls and occasional highway pulls then its questionable if that block will sustain that power for longer periods of time. None of these blocks will hold that untouched for ever.
My opinion is spend the money for reliability up front because when something breaks it becomes more expensive
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Do you use the LAF/LEA crankshaft too? I see your notes say you install a brand new crankshaft, is that a forged LE5 crank?