Lightweight flywheel for auto
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Lightweight flywheel for auto
I've been looking around the forums and there are a lot of threads about lightweight flywheels for the boosted guys with the MANUAL transmission, but I have an auto 2.4 and I'm trying to free up some of the spinning mass e.g. lightweight flywheel, neutral balance shafts. I can't find any information on whether they make lightweigh flywheels for the auto. Does anyone know if they do or do not make them and if they do can point me in the right direction? Thanks
#2
Member
I've been looking around the forums and there are a lot of threads about lightweight flywheels for the boosted guys with the MANUAL transmission, but I have an auto 2.4 and I'm trying to free up some of the spinning mass e.g. lightweight flywheel, neutral balance shafts. I can't find any information on whether they make lightweigh flywheels for the auto. Does anyone know if they do or do not make them and if they do can point me in the right direction? Thanks
I've got a manual so someone with an automatic might be able to help a bit better
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
My bad I completely forgot about flexplates. Do you think they have lightweight versions because I'm trying for a 250hp na build and every little bit counts. If they cause more harm than good then it's not worth it and I'm not as interested in the torque converter I'm more interested in freeing up some horsepower by lowering the moving mass.
#4
Member
My bad I completely forgot about flexplates. Do you think they have lightweight versions because I'm trying for a 250hp na build and every little bit counts. If they cause more harm than good then it's not worth it and I'm not as interested in the torque converter I'm more interested in freeing up some horsepower by lowering the moving mass.
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
I've already got my engine and tranny tuned, I have full bolt ons, full exhaust and intake. I'm making somewhere in the low two hundreds right now and I'm looking at getting cams #75 valve springs neutral balance shafts and an underdrive pulley to gain a considerable amount more power, was just curious if they had a lightweight fl3xplate but I think I came to the same conclusion as you when I looked them up, they are already pretty light! Now idk how much all those mods I plan to do will add but I'm hoping i'll be atleast around 230ish
#6
Member
I've already got my engine and tranny tuned, I have full bolt ons, full exhaust and intake. I'm making somewhere in the low two hundreds right now and I'm looking at getting cams #75 valve springs neutral balance shafts and an underdrive pulley to gain a considerable amount more power, was just curious if they had a lightweight fl3xplate but I think I came to the same conclusion as you when I looked them up, they are already pretty light! Now idk how much all those mods I plan to do will add but I'm hoping i'll be atleast around 230ish
#7
Member
Dude. If you are making 200 whp, which I doubt (not to be a d*ck), because our cars are 171hp. After all the parts between the pistons and the wheels, you are really only getting ~160 ish.. so with just an intake and full exhaust (is that cat back or headers and dp back?). No way youre touchin 200whp... SO here is my two cents man:
If you want to stay N/A
Cams, tune and port job.
That, with everything else you got already, youre not squeezing any more out.
Really, I mean to each there own man, but whenever all that little stuff starts to matter is when you are maxing out on everything you can possibly do AND THEN you start to weedle out those small power drainers.
If youre really concerned enough to get an Underdrive pulley (which, dude unless youre boosted seriously don't even bother) just delete the A/C... you just have to get a smaller belt and that is it. But even then, deleting the A/C is extremely negligible and being that youre in Louisiana, you may not want to get rid of the A/C. There are plenty of forums around for the hardcore N/A builds... seriously, look up some of them and youll get an idea.
Tellin ya right now though man, unless you go boosted, you will be lucky if youre riding in ~200 whp.... seriously...
If you want to stay N/A
Cams, tune and port job.
That, with everything else you got already, youre not squeezing any more out.
Really, I mean to each there own man, but whenever all that little stuff starts to matter is when you are maxing out on everything you can possibly do AND THEN you start to weedle out those small power drainers.
If youre really concerned enough to get an Underdrive pulley (which, dude unless youre boosted seriously don't even bother) just delete the A/C... you just have to get a smaller belt and that is it. But even then, deleting the A/C is extremely negligible and being that youre in Louisiana, you may not want to get rid of the A/C. There are plenty of forums around for the hardcore N/A builds... seriously, look up some of them and youll get an idea.
Tellin ya right now though man, unless you go boosted, you will be lucky if youre riding in ~200 whp.... seriously...
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Well I don't have enough money to boost right now and I'm trying to still do upgrades that I know will help but don't cost a **** ton, also yes i have a full exhaust headerback, vibrant headers and a 2.5 inch magnaflow catback not that manufacturers matter that much. Also i got it tuned by a shop nearby that has some really great gm tuners and yes my plan was to make it rev high and thats why i needed the cams cuz stock ones wont really make power up there. And yes no ac delete for me here its way to hot, i understand boosting makes me some good power but for now i cant do that and im trying to see what else i can really do to squeeze some extra power out of my engine.
#10
Senior Member
How about not sinking time and money into a hopeless goal?
Not one person has really been satisfied with N/A builds. Plus if you want it 250hp you'll be spending way more than you would with forced induction.
Not one person has really been satisfied with N/A builds. Plus if you want it 250hp you'll be spending way more than you would with forced induction.
#11
Member
#12
New Member
Thread Starter
Yeah yall are right idk what i was thinking, only thing is i have a 2008 and i hear they are weaker than earlier year le5's do yall know how much i could push on stock internals by boosting? I saw on a forum that i can only get 250 out of it but others have told me i can get a little more than that so im not really sure.
#13
Senior Member
You don't have low 200s to the wheel with just basic bolt ons and a tune. I promise you that. And in order to get 250 na you're going to be spending money and you will need a pretty decent shot of nitrous. You're not getting that all motor. Spend 1k on a supercharger kit and call it done.
#14
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
ive got the perfect example here. friend of mine years ago did a full out ***** to the wall n/a l61 ecotec build in his cavalier (this was prior to the cobalt being a thing). it was over 12:1 compression, fully built, ported head, balance shaft delete (iirc this was the car level zero developed their balance shaft delete kit on). the end result of all this was around 170hp at the wheels at just under 9000rpm and this was through a manual.
granted, the 2.4l does have a little extra displacement, but there is no way your at 200hp at the wheels.
ill 2nd the buy a blower kit. 250hp is gonna be close to your limit, but 250whp for spending $1k is pretty good. later on you can toss some better rods and pistons in and push it harder, possibly throw a tvs on, etc.
granted, the 2.4l does have a little extra displacement, but there is no way your at 200hp at the wheels.
ill 2nd the buy a blower kit. 250hp is gonna be close to your limit, but 250whp for spending $1k is pretty good. later on you can toss some better rods and pistons in and push it harder, possibly throw a tvs on, etc.
#15
New Member
Thread Starter
ive got the perfect example here. friend of mine years ago did a full out ***** to the wall n/a l61 ecotec build in his cavalier (this was prior to the cobalt being a thing). it was over 12:1 compression, fully built, ported head, balance shaft delete (iirc this was the car level zero developed their balance shaft delete kit on). the end result of all this was around 170hp at the wheels at just under 9000rpm and this was through a manual.
granted, the 2.4l does have a little extra displacement, but there is no way your at 200hp at the wheels.
ill 2nd the buy a blower kit. 250hp is gonna be close to your limit, but 250whp for spending $1k is pretty good. later on you can toss some better rods and pistons in and push it harder, possibly throw a tvs on, etc.
granted, the 2.4l does have a little extra displacement, but there is no way your at 200hp at the wheels.
ill 2nd the buy a blower kit. 250hp is gonna be close to your limit, but 250whp for spending $1k is pretty good. later on you can toss some better rods and pistons in and push it harder, possibly throw a tvs on, etc.
#17
Senior Member
I installed a lightweight AL flywheel on my Solstice 2.4 LE5 turbo, the benefits I see are increased no-load rev speed (example, you go from 2000-5000 rpms twice as fast) and easier RPM matching. Disadvantage is that it caused the system to be "more sensitive" chatter at low RPM take off, solution is use a few hundred more revs and modulate the slip (when it starts to chatter, disengage the clutch before it gets bad). Once I got use to it, not something that is annoying and NOT A DEAL BREAKER, I see cost being the deal breaker if anything.
Considering this above ^ advantages/disadvantages I experienced, they have nothing to do with Automatics as Automatics don't have a gigantic dry clutch and a human being control system. In addition, I suspect the TC for the 170 lb-ft 1.4T LUV engine is low mass compared to Big Blocks trying to squeeze every thing out of their pro- drag race cars, with a big ol' budget to go fast and buy light weight flex plates.
Considering this above ^ advantages/disadvantages I experienced, they have nothing to do with Automatics as Automatics don't have a gigantic dry clutch and a human being control system. In addition, I suspect the TC for the 170 lb-ft 1.4T LUV engine is low mass compared to Big Blocks trying to squeeze every thing out of their pro- drag race cars, with a big ol' budget to go fast and buy light weight flex plates.
Last edited by steelmesh; 02-24-2017 at 12:37 PM.
#19
Senior Member
But for real though, if you have a 2.4 with full bolt ons and a tune you're around 170-180whp. Not in the 200s. But that's easy to get to with a supercharger. Cheap too
#20
Member
Save the cash, take the plunge. Forced induction is flat out best bang for your dollar. Get it. Got it. Gooooood!