noorj

iTrader: (17)

Hey guys, so after getting bored of just the tune & bolt ons I've finally decided to go turbo. Also now being competent enough at HPT I feel like now its finally time! I'll use this for updates and hopefully advice anyone can give, so feel free to give opinions. Anyways here is my tentative list for what I think I'm going to be going with.

Comp 5556
ZZP turbo mani
Precision 44mm wastegate
ZZP 3" DP
Dump tube
ZZP oil kit
2.5-3" SS reducer
2.5 flange
v band kit
Oil Pan
Treadstone IC
K&N air filter
Hallman MBC
ebay charge piping kit
3 aluminum bend
3.5 aluminum bend
ZZP Maf pad
3-3.5" 90 silicone
2.5-3" silicone 90
2.5-3" silicone 90
2-2.5 silicone
ZZP bov
silicone intakes non-cat
vacuum line
NGK LTR6IX-1 #6509
Autometer Boost Gauge
Aeroforce Interceptor
ZZP 3 gauge pod
ZZP 2 Bar MAP sensor
T3 turbo gasket
magnetic drain plug
MPx Catch can
KY stage 3 clutch


End goal is ~275whp which I would like to get on 6-8 psi. Currently I have 60# injectors on the car and am running E85 and will run this setup with everything above. I think the E85 will definitely help with hitting 275 and keeping it on the safe side. Tuning is already almost done for the E85 so it'll make tuning once I get the turbo on super easy.

As far as the turbo goes, I know Comp isn't very popular on this forum but from what I have helped my friends build they are very reliable. Obviously being journal bearing spool isnt going to be amazing but at such low boost I think it should be fine. Specs for the turbo are:

55mm compressor inducer
56mm turbine exducer
T3 .48 A/R turbine housing
journal bearing, oil cooled

Plan is to start buying immediately and start putting stuff together the week of July 4th because Dunlop is a great company and gave me a paid vacation week

Also if anyone is selling any of the above PM me!

Ceeker

save yourself the $200 on the interceptor and either buy OBD2 Bluetooth adaptor and a jailbreak/pirate the torque phone app, or go to walmart and buy a $50 OBD2 reader. With those parts, you will meet your goals. i run 7/8 PSI on 2006 2.4 and it makes great power. There has been blown motors @ 12-13+ psi, Blown motors at 10 psi. These motors can also reliably handle 16 PSI for a 1/4 mile run + cool down period.

My plan is to go low-ish boost, and use meth/higher octane for more power.

noorj

iTrader: (17)

I was kind of re-thinking the interceptor, I have HPT pro and I log all the time so I figure as long as I log every fill up and test the E85's ethanol content for changes I won't see any knock. And that would really be the only point to having the interceptor anyway.

How do you like the ZZP kit? I'm still considering it but I feel like I can build a better kit myself for cheaper. Not saying they don't have very high quality **** though (I'll be buying a bunch of it). Have you ever run at 16 psi? lol that seems ballsy

Ceeker

I like the ZZP kit, parts bolted up really nice and easy. Their attention to fitment shows. High quality welds. Their shitty customer service was the worst part of the whole experience, they accidentally sent older style injectors for 3800s, with the kit; and kept giving me the run around in emails about it, long story short, they wouldn't even let me pay for expedited shipping to fix THEIR mistake, it delayed the build another 3-4 weeks.

If you feel like you know your ****, you can definitely piece together a custom kit that is comparable or even superior for cheaper. I personally played it safe and went with the permade. Custom kits, have custom problems, had the kit for over a year, no issues.

I have personally run 15 psi on a 2006 le5, 2007+ have weaker internals. My 15 psi tune was only ran on a dyno for a few pulls etc...and was bragging rights/car ***** type of thing. I would recommend NOT going over 10 psi for street/reliability etc. I'm sure the le5 could handle 30 psi :P .....once Rofl!

Some things I have noticed, I have a small exhaust note "blip" when idling. Every 20-30 seconds @ idle , A:F goes lean (17:1) for a "blip" and then returns back to 14-15:1. Can make a video if you like. Also had to work out a throttle body P-Code/camshaft actuator when dialling in the tune through HPT. The TB one was caused from the wiring harness sitting too close to the turbo, heat changed the Ohm/resistance of the circuit and tripped it. Camshaft one was un-related and was just a wiggly/dirty ground.

I also can throw the coolant code if I don't let the car warm up a bit, after a cold start. Car definitely needs to warm up more to about 70 Celsius. I normally keep it out of boost until its around there if I'm in a hurry etc after a cold start.

If you would like, I can take pics/vids for you, inside bay/underneath if you are piecing it and have a question.

Compressor Wheel Inducer - 52mm
Compressor Wheel Exducer - 70mm
Turbine Wheel Inducer - 69mm
Turbine Wheel Exducer - 61mm

Bullseye S252 extended tip

newt

iTrader: (2)

I've had my car up to 14psi on my 60trim .63A/R T3/T4 and it has cams and a ported head.

These motors are stronger than people give them credit for.

For 275whp you don't even need to run E85, if you were trying to run 375whp then maybe.


I run mine at 11psi which is probably putting me in the 320-340whp range...no issues.


I should add that I will be running it at 13-15psi once I figure out my my tunning issues. (stock '06 LE5 bottom end)

noorj

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the info man, I'm looking at a slightly smaller turbine and probably about that size comp. You AFR blip is likely due to your trims being rich so the pcm is trying to pull them leaner to get it more towards zero. I might take you up on pics of your charge pipe setup sometime soon.

That makes me feel good you've had it a year and still running strong! lol

Well that's good to hear, but I would like to hit ~300 but on very low boost which is why I think the E85 will help and I already have the tune pretty down anyways lol. I will definitely turn it up once and a while for some races anyways so the more power on the less boost the better.

and is that just like a generic ebay turbo? what size compressor/turbine wheels?

Ceeker

I can tell you now, doesn't matter if your motor makes 180WHP or 1800 WHP, all power gets boring once you are used to it / the novelty wears off :P

zerosk8ter83

iTrader: (3)

buy a ultra gauge it does the job
UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool & Information Center

Ceeker

^ ******' smart!

i opted for the cheap OBD2 dongle from walmart, but the gauge might be the more logical choice. About the same price as the ultra gauge, but since after buying said OBD2 dongle from walmart, all my friends/family call me to read their codes it gets annoying, but since im canadian i have to be nice and help everyone who asks


ultra gauge for sure, but you would lose a A-pillar slot, for exhaust/egt/psi. Choose wisely!

noorj

iTrader: (17)

I may grab that, I do have and use HPT frequently so idk if it would be worth it.


Also has anyone used or heard reviews on the precision 5431? I found rebuilt one on ebay for kinda cheap.

Ceeker

Negative on that one. I was thinking about your turbo choice for your application @ work the other day. I believe you auto cross (please correct me if im wrong) so i would think you want to change gears as little as possible , (correct me if im wrong, i have limited competitive auto cross expierience, the times i watch track rentals, the miata guys have educated me its very important to change gears as little as possible ) especially in a tranny with longer gears (like our f23)

Since your on a budget, and you daily drive the car. a proper full race turbo build is impractical. by full race turbo build, i mean combustion/dentonation in the exhaust via spark plug right after the turbine side of the turbo for anti lag. Thats a stupid pipe dream for basically everyone on the forums except jesus/John Powel (same person in my mind) since replacing/rebuilding turbos and exhaust after every race needs sponsorship $$$

so, i was thinking, case example:

Your entering your turn, in boost @ peak rpm/hp, lets say 2nd/3rd (dont think your gonna be able to do 4th except for straights on a real track, not straights on a parking lot pylon course etc.

you need a turbo that will spool FAST, so in a worst case scenario, if you do need to let of the throttle to hit your apex for the exit, you need a turbo that will put you back @ peak rpm/hp/full bosst; BEFORE your finish the turn / under .100-200 milseconds would be a realistic target for a budget turbo.

I looked at one of my powerband/dyno pics for my "medium" power daily drive tune, and it looks like wiht my zzp kit/s252 i hit peak power somewhere between 6000-6200.

Also, with my build, my powerbands "sweet spot" for accelerting, is 3200-3400 RPMS, i make full boost 8 psi, @ 2800-3000 , but it looks like (from my powerband) the turbo and the natural flat torque of the LE5 really hit it off @ 3200-3400,

Thus; in the worst case scenario turn, i wouldn't want my rpms to go below 3200-3400 IF i had to let off the throttle for apex. before going WOT back to 6200 etc.

I have never mathmatically timed my spool lag fom 3200-3400, vacum to 8 psi etc before. but with my s252 and zzp kit, if i were to make an educated guess, i would say its easily below 500 ms, maybe in the 200-300/350 ms range??? maybe quicker? its hard for me to tell off memory i could get the girlfriend to help me make a video/time it maybe to help you on your turbo decision

Looking at your
Compressor Specs
Inducer 2.165"
Exducer 3.00"
Billet 50 trim flow rate 50lbs/min "old Cast 50 trim flow rate 46lbs/min"
E compressor cover 3" inlet, 2" outlet

Turbine Specs
T31 Turbine Wheel, Similar to the 57 Trim
T3 Inlet
4 Bolt outlet
.63 A/R

i am in no means a wizzard to the beautiful art of turbo/jet engine engineering, but to the best of my knowledge (someone correct me on this)

for spool or lag = turbine A/R, and compressor flow rate values

so ebay turbo

50 lbs/ min - higher the value, the better the spool ??? not sure, kinda makes sense boost/minute? also seen some sites say your turbo choice is 46 lbs/min

.63 - reasonably certain the lower the better for spool

My S252 extended
s
55 lbs/min ??? some sites say its max is 55, some say the s252 (not extended) is 55 lbs, and the extended is 10-20% more??? even bullseye site was lacking this value/compressor map..... so not 100% sure bud, but for comparison sake, we can use 55 i guess....

A/R is .55 (kinda neat tht the a/r is the same as 55 ? wonder what that means?

thus......

46/50 vs 55/55+
.63 vs .55
$500 vs $1200
ebay vs zzp
Precison vs Bullseye/borgwarner

it looks like we could expect the ebay turbo to spool slower than the s252 ET? again noorj, take this with a grain of salt, i do not know alot about turbine/compressor engineering.

so, with my grade 12 math skills

48 (averaged) vs 55 - s252 13% better air flow, or potenitally more, ? some sites say its 55+
.63 vs .55 ---S252 14% better, think this just means the turbo is physically 14% smaller
$500 vs $1200 --- S252 is 2.4x times more expensive (outside of shipping etc)
ebay vs zzp --- as a vendor choice, id say its a tie. in my personal expierinece dealign with zzp. their customer service is worst than a pimpled 15 year old making me a hamburger.
Precison vs Bullseye/borgwarner. i dont know enough about precision, i think they just do ebays/rebuilds? but i know borg warner makes pretty decent turbos, comparible to mitsubishi ones etc. (generalizing) they also supplied general motors the k04 for the factory LNF. and i do know that during reliability testing our beloved ecotec brother the LNF was redlined in 4th gear for 37 minutes straight. before something broke (GM of course.....didnt say what broke.... LOL)

so if GM sourced the k04 from them, they prolly make good ****???? not 100% certain on that..

THUS THE TLDR: IS

S252 ET = 13-14% better spool, 2.4 times the price.
guessing the 600-$700 price difference comes from the "reliabilty" / brand image of borg warner. but noorj dude, you know how it is with cars reliabilty, you dont take care of it, it breaks etc...

so if my not scientifically tested/accurate guess of 200-350 milesecond spool time is semi-accurate
228 ms - 400. for the ebay?

so... is 600-700$ worth 30-50 ms???? if your on a 10 turn course, and depending on your skill/difficulty of the turn if you need to let off throtle; lets say 5 times (arbitrary) a race, and if you stay above 3200-3400 rpm (thats s252 zzp kit rpm range)
150-250ms off the lap time ?


that a seasons tire money there in savings. again my grade 12 math skills could be super ******* wrong and i could of just wasted a bunch of your time, but just trying to be a canadian and help

if you like, i'll do a video of lag on the kit. another LE5 owner wants a video of me going threw gears to demonstrate the zzp kit, so maybe i could help both you guys out with one video

LS6Rally

iTrader: (14)

so i dont know much about the intracaies of Turbos and there setups for rpm ranges and what not, but this is a friend of mine, Glen. car blew up at 340WHP but it ran well on the 8 PSi tune.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-4l...d-pics-202937/

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-4l...umbers-205333/

noorj

iTrader: (17)

Thanks both you guys for your input!

Ceeker- I get what your saying, but honestly depending on the autox track I be at 2200 to 4200 rpms in turns so it really just depends on how the course is set up that day. Also adding a turbo to an NA car puts me in the street modified class, a VERY competitive class with guys with a lot of $$$$ and I know I will no longer do very well. However I want to make the car a more well rounded car (faster in straight lines, considering it does well in the corners now).

LS6- thanks a lot man! that really helps me visualize how I can route my charge pipes! I think I'm going to buy some aluminum soon and start work on them now! Do you know what PSI he was at when he blew up?



anyways bought the turbo tonight! here's the link

Comp Turbo - CT2 5556 Billet

went with the .48 A/R for slightly better spool. I know it will start to choke up around 40ish lb/min but I figure to get that high I will need sleeves and if I'm gonna do that I might as well but a name brand turbo at that point lol. I think this turbo is a great mix of inexpensive yet reliable turbo, and I got a couple hundo off the list price

Ceeker

Nice dude! Keep us updated as you piece it together!

I do enjoy a few drinks and a good build thread

noorj

iTrader: (17)

I had to

More parts coming in soon!

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

I say buy an interceptor....i love mine and its better than having the laptop on all the time and wont drain/hog your phone from a bluetooth reader.

noorj

iTrader: (17)

I was thinking about that this morning, what setting do you usually have yours on? The only I think I would monitor would be knock and maybe IAT if I splice the iat from the maf to the map.

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

Knock and IAT. used to cycle misfire, knock, IAT, and trans temp.

noorj

iTrader: (17)

are you using an lsj t-map? I'm thinking about doing that so I can get IAT2 but I'd have to tap my manifold for it

Ceeker

I use s cheapo obd2 reader/clearer.


Air to fuel, boost, exhaust temp.

noorj

iTrader: (17)

how do you get afr and egt on it? the E67 doesn't have a wideband and uses a gm algorithm for expected egts

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

Im using 2.5 Bar from LSJ (i pulled the wire from the MAF to read IAT at the MAP sensor)

AFR would have to be done with their add on kit i believe unless you can figure out how to wire your current wideband into it.

noorj

iTrader: (17)

I have a wideband already, maybe ill look for an lsj tmap so I can get iat

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

Really easy...your 3 wires from the stock MAP match to 3 wires on the 2.5 bar and the IAT wire from the MAF wires to the leftover wire on the 2.5 bar

noorj

iTrader: (17)

Yeah I've seen write-ups on it before I just don't know how I would connect it to my manifold, its different from the stock 2.2/2.4 connection to the manifold right?