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For fun and because MCM did this with Miatas recently, I overlaid Slowbalts Supercharged LE5 on top of my Turbocharged LE5 as we're running similar boost levels, orange = SC, blue = TC. Dotted line = HP
I hit 17.5 psi at around 3,600-3,700 rpm, redline 6,500, max timing was only 9 degrees and have since added a few degrees after softening up the knock strategy. In real life on the street or track, that is another story and probably not as deceiving as comparing numbers like I am.
Im confused, my car is turbo and my dyno graph looked like *******. Thinking of someone else? or did you manipulate my log into a dyno graph?
Yikes sorry Slowbalt, I looked at post #53, #61, #62, #63 and thought this was your dyno pull, the picture in post #63 clearly shows a SC so I made a bunch of assumptions crap: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-4l...ml#post7627365
I took points from the picture of the dyno graph in #63 and put it in excel, ignore the steps I did some lazy stuff
Car was tuned at 20psi with the timing running off the end of the table so when it hit 26psi on the dyno, im almost positive it was pulling back some major timing, which is why my graph drops off so hard as soon as it spools.
I do appreciate you doing that though. Makes the graph much easier to read. Since youre in michigan maybe we should do some actual runs! Where do you stay?
Car was tuned at 20psi with the timing running off the end of the table so when it hit 26psi on the dyno, im almost positive it was pulling back some major timing, which is why my graph drops off so hard as soon as it spools.
I do appreciate you doing that though. Makes the graph much easier to read. Since youre in michigan maybe we should do some actual runs! Where do you stay?
Edit: I think you have my hp and tq flipped
I'm in the Detroit area. I did live in Big Rapids for a short-time, for school =) Just so you know, I am running a Solstice.
As for the graph flipped, I only took Torque points, it was labeled on the graph I think I got it right, what may have happened in my laziness I did Tq*RPM/5252 for the HP points, let me double check this work I think I see what you're seeing
Should be right then, thats the only formula for HP.
And dude thats awesome. I want a sky/solstice so bad after building my car up this far. I also go here for school, but know a few cobalt owners in detroit.
Should be right then, thats the only formula for HP.
And dude thats awesome. I want a sky/solstice so bad after building my car up this far. I also go here for school, but know a few cobalt owners in detroit.
I plead ignorance, the formula isn't matching up (could be my fault). If you analyze the graph, it shows peak HP is 325 hp at 6,300 rpm and looks like it provides the torque at this point being 303.
HP = (Tq * RPM)/5252
325 = (Tq * 6,300) / 5252
325*5252 = Tq * 6300
(325*5252)/6300 = Tq
271 = Tq
Like I said, something isn't right and I feel like I have overlooked something easy
If you put more timing in it, im sure you would raise up the right end of that graph. You tuning it yourself? What turbo?
The tuner who helped with my dyno pulls said I should be running more timing especially since I have meth, basically he suggested false knock is my issue. I am tuning it with HPT, I haven't touched the stock knock strategy, sounds like I am ready to at this point in time. Turbo is a Precision 5558 (Werks turbo kit).
The tuner who helped with my dyno pulls said I should be running more timing especially since I have meth, basically he suggested false knock is my issue. I am tuning it with HPT, I haven't touched the stock knock strategy, sounds like I am ready to at this point in time. Turbo is a Precision 5558 (Werks turbo kit).
Depending on how much meth youre running, i wouldnt even pay attention to the knock sensors. Anything rattling in your engine bay can set those off. Are you getting mostly tip in knock, through the rev range? Top end?
Depending on how much meth youre running, i wouldnt even pay attention to the knock sensors. Anything rattling in your engine bay can set those off. Are you getting mostly tip in knock, through the rev range? Top end?
I was getting KR activity around 4k rpms, I did reduce some of the knock sensitivity after my dyno runs and now running max 12 degrees, with street pulls showing promise. The car is currently parked as I need to figure out my oil pressure issues, I am 18-20 psi hot at idle tapped off the block, 44 psi at redline is the major concern in addition to all of my lifters are ticking (when oil temps <140F), I still did the dyno pull in this condition and I totally expect the engine to fail just don't know when. Will need to get a pressure gauge on the head, and I am also assuming the Chinese 0-100 psi transducer is performing. Eautorepair suggests oil pump before bearings as the cause.
You have knock sensitivity tables in the e67? Ima have to check that out. My buddy had a $15 oil pressure gauge on his ion and his was doing the same thing but no noticable noise from engine. Lmk if you want a cheap front cover/oil pump. Ive got a few laying around.
You have knock sensitivity tables in the e67? Ima have to check that out. My buddy had a $15 oil pressure gauge on his ion and his was doing the same thing but no noticable noise from engine. Lmk if you want a cheap front cover/oil pump. Ive got a few laying around.
I did 6 new lifters (6 because I did it without remove the timing chain) on the exhaust side. I did a lot of listening with the scope and was sure it was exhaust side. After I do the job, the intake side seemed just as loud as what I thought was the exhaust side. With the low oil pressure I figured it was futile, and another indicator is the Exhaust Cam P0013 code, I've replaced the exhaust actuator with an OEM part, old one was clean, and data logging Desired Exh angle vs. Actual Exh angle shows great disparity.
Right now planning out my garage and how to get the car in there to continue working on it through out our lovely Fall/Winter Michigan season. I am considering an LEA block from a 2012 regal, looks like I can get a very low mileage one for $500, swap over the LE5 bottom and top basically.
Might as well get forged rods and pistons if youre gonna get a gen3 block. Molnar rods are 400ish and custom pistons can be had in the 500s.
I am totally with you if I am going to pull it all apart, along with valve springs and balance delete I think I'll be in a good position to start breaking my drivetrain (a positive indicator that I am moving in the right direction lol).
Moderator
11-09-2016, 09:37 AM
