Looking through NGK's race application chart I found a few types of spark plugs that are compatible with the LSJ head. By chance the local Advanced Auto Parts had two types in stock.

R5672A-8
R5672A-9

Plugs are heat range 8 and 9 (stock is 6). Copper core on both. Non-resistor.

 

Isnt it the higher the number the hotter the plug?
Did you buy all they had

 

Will this gain you more horsepower or torque?

 

Trying two heat ranges on two different engines. NGK = higher number is colder. Autolite = higher number is hotter.
Only if you are having currently having plug related issues.

 

I ran the R5671a-7 for a while. They worked good.

 

Notice any additional radio noise?

I'm going to give them a whirl here in a bit, just wondering if a race plug is compatible with the Ecotec electrical system. At $1.98 a piece I figured they are a cheap way to find out.

 

No radio noise or anything. They worked great. The NGK rep told me they will mess with the injector because they are non-resistor but they were fine with me.

 

Non-resistor plugs can play games with the PCM (I've had this happen on a friends Honda H22 we were tuning) and also increases interference with the radio.

 

i have a new set of the 6097's and the 7173's.

i hate you.
you make me spend money.

if there is any radio interferance. my head unit will pick it up fast

 

Threw in the 8s. No radio interference at all.

9s go in when the TVS gets here.

 

figure your timing issue out? plugs help?

answers damnit!

 

Dunno. Dan and I are probably going to head out to BWW for refreshments, I'll know then.

 

lol
some how i knew that was going to happen

 

Still getting a lil tiny bit of knock at 7k+, definetly an improvement.

Idle is a touch rougher with these plugs.

 

not all knock is induced by the motor mr man

 

quick question while ive got the 2 super tuners here...

could the spark plugs have something to do with seeing high degrees of knock while revving sitting still? I was watching the interceptor gauge the other day and was seeing flashes upwards of 22* when i blipped the throttle...

 

I have to look but I think theres a maximum amount of timing the knock sensor will pull. I think its around 7 or so degrees.

 

Witt, Area.

I tried these after seeing them in a few work cars, i was impressed with them over the ****-tastic autolites i had at the time.

i've since swapped for the ZEX plugs, i'm sure i've told you both about them and i think witt might have used them.

the Zex's and the R5672A-9 ran good on the car in the summer months with the blower, how ever i kept fighting top end knock. 6600+ rpm would have hits of it.

no matter what i tired nothing would get rid of it, i then started playing with spark dwell to try and imitate a MSD effect, that dwell change along with the ZEX's were a ***** of a combo, i was able to bump my advance at least 1-2deg in the main area and more in the highway cruse areas to bump MPG while cruzeing at 80.

so yea, i can vouch for these plugs being worth-while but the top end knock is easy to get away from with some mild dwell tuning.

i did get some radio squeal but nothing common road noise dident drowned out. i'm not sure if my ever awesome alpine HU helped or hurt that.

just my .02 for past experience.

nope.

your seeing a combo of some real knock along with large amount of false knock from the engine rocking around in the mounts(solid mounts make this effect a bit worse)

the car wants to run big advance due to the minimal load and high RPM (low cylinder airmass and high revs)

 

I've always had autolite 3922 as per Dan's suggestion. They worked fine until I swapped pistons. I think it might have to do with my effective compression ratio being a tad higher than planned with stroked lifters.

I had 7+ degrees of KR, audible knock and finally a misfire (well not really but thats what it feels like and you can guess what was happening) at 4.7k+ rpm. I backed off a couple degrees of timing and changed the plugs. I see about 1-2 KR at 7-8k rpm now.

 

well if you want i'll send you my config with the different dwell settings to try.

i've never had much luck with the autolites, the ZEX's just let me get away with more on this dewll table.

just makein the offer. you get all the fuel info the other day?

i never heard **** back from any one.

also, what lifters did you jump to?

 

witt, what is your decay rate set at on knock retard?

como?!?!

 

I had changed my dwell table on the upper end and it was a bandaid fix. It ended up coming right back after a few months.

Stock hydraulic lifters stroked to their max.

Yeah I got the email, thanks again. Just been a little busy and haven't been able to get back to everyone lately. I apoligize.
Everything in the timing department is back to stock other than idle and coastdown so I could track down if I had a mechanical issue or not.

Dwell, knock decay, and attack rate changes had no effect on the problem.

 

hmmm. interesting.

bad fuel!

dunno. i hate trying to diagnose something over the computer.

 

I don't remember if I told you but the lastest version of my cam tune involves everything in coastdown below 24 degrees changed to 24 degrees. Idle spark at 16 across the board.

Coastdown could use maybe some more work but it pretty much fixed the problem.

 

yepo. you sent me 63781276578934 messages yesterday about it. this was also before your morning java ingestion. so it may have slipped your mind.