AIS Stealthy Install
AIS Stealthy Install
This is kindof a How-To, I will explain what I did as I go through the pictures, but this is to be used as more of an idea on where to mount your pump, and run the lines.
First off: You will need to buy the vacuum line for going from the T-fitting to the pump, AIS doesnt supply that. It will need to be ~ 4-5ft. long, get 6 and have extra. I streached my 4ft to work, and it only cost me $1.22 or somthing for 4ft. at AutoZone.
Second: You will have to buy new nuts and bolts for mounting the pump this way, the ones supplied are metal tapping screws, but the way done here needs nuts with bolts, and washers. I got mine at Lowe's for like $5 for everything.
Third: You will need to get some kind of bracket to secure the pump. I will explain later.
Here is a shot of my engine bay after install. Yes, that is after install. See anything?

Here is where you can tap in to a vacuum line for the pump switch.

This is the only angle that you can see the nozzle from, and you can barely see it. This is taken from the driver side by the side mirror, and you have to be looking for it to see it.

Here is a close up of the same angle, this is what you might see if you buried your face in my engine bay, lol.

This is where I tie the boost line, water pressure line, and the power line together to go to the pump.


Now, here is where the pump is located... It is bolted to the inside of the wheelwell. Yes I was a little hesitant on mounting it here to the plastic, but I tested the strength of it with my hand, and it barely moves. Plus I went to the Chicago meet the week after install (about 1000 miles round trip) and it hasn't moved.


A couple things about the pump. I had to trim the corner of the headlight bracket, because it was hitting the pump. Make sure you mount the pump as close to the engine bay as possible and make sure you have room for your out line to go between the washer fluid tank neck and the car frame. You will see what I mean when you do it. Just make sure you have room, you dont want to mount it then notice that the out line goes straight in to metal, lol.
Here are the brackets I was speaking of. I found these laying around my garage, anything will do as long as it has strength. You can probably find somthing at Home Depot.

Ready to get confused? If you know how to wire it all up, then you dont have to pay much attention, but this is how I routed the lines to the pump.

Im not going to go into detail about how I tapped the tank, but if you have questions, ask.
Here is where I tapped for power. THIS IS ONLY TEMPORARY! I have yet to get an add-a-fuse, because they didnt have one rated high enough when I went.

If you have any questions, please ask, I will help out all I can.
I also want to thank Rodney from AIS for the information! This is a great product.
Aj
First off: You will need to buy the vacuum line for going from the T-fitting to the pump, AIS doesnt supply that. It will need to be ~ 4-5ft. long, get 6 and have extra. I streached my 4ft to work, and it only cost me $1.22 or somthing for 4ft. at AutoZone.
Second: You will have to buy new nuts and bolts for mounting the pump this way, the ones supplied are metal tapping screws, but the way done here needs nuts with bolts, and washers. I got mine at Lowe's for like $5 for everything.
Third: You will need to get some kind of bracket to secure the pump. I will explain later.
Here is a shot of my engine bay after install. Yes, that is after install. See anything?

Here is where you can tap in to a vacuum line for the pump switch.

This is the only angle that you can see the nozzle from, and you can barely see it. This is taken from the driver side by the side mirror, and you have to be looking for it to see it.

Here is a close up of the same angle, this is what you might see if you buried your face in my engine bay, lol.

This is where I tie the boost line, water pressure line, and the power line together to go to the pump.


Now, here is where the pump is located... It is bolted to the inside of the wheelwell. Yes I was a little hesitant on mounting it here to the plastic, but I tested the strength of it with my hand, and it barely moves. Plus I went to the Chicago meet the week after install (about 1000 miles round trip) and it hasn't moved.


A couple things about the pump. I had to trim the corner of the headlight bracket, because it was hitting the pump. Make sure you mount the pump as close to the engine bay as possible and make sure you have room for your out line to go between the washer fluid tank neck and the car frame. You will see what I mean when you do it. Just make sure you have room, you dont want to mount it then notice that the out line goes straight in to metal, lol.
Here are the brackets I was speaking of. I found these laying around my garage, anything will do as long as it has strength. You can probably find somthing at Home Depot.

Ready to get confused? If you know how to wire it all up, then you dont have to pay much attention, but this is how I routed the lines to the pump.

Im not going to go into detail about how I tapped the tank, but if you have questions, ask.
Here is where I tapped for power. THIS IS ONLY TEMPORARY! I have yet to get an add-a-fuse, because they didnt have one rated high enough when I went.

If you have any questions, please ask, I will help out all I can.
I also want to thank Rodney from AIS for the information! This is a great product.
Aj
Have fun when your pump goes out or leakes from the fittings and you have to pull your front end apart! I like the stealthy look, but I also like convenience and ease to fix if you have a problem!
Thanks for all the comments.
Not really yet, cause it comes on at 10psi, and im still on stock boost (12.5). Its really just a supporting mod for when I get time to put my 2.7 pully on.
Last edited by AjSS; Apr 16, 2008 at 05:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
But I understand your worry, its all about how you feel
Thanks! I never see you around really, but then again im at work alot, lol.
I ran at Test N Tune on tuesday, ran a 14.4 @ 101 with a shitty 2.4 60ft... I only got 2 runs in, it was busy and cold at night. The track wasnt preped real well either, its still early in the season though. All my mods are in my garage, im still on the stock pully right now, so that time isnt real bad considering the conditions.
I ran at Test N Tune on tuesday, ran a 14.4 @ 101 with a shitty 2.4 60ft... I only got 2 runs in, it was busy and cold at night. The track wasnt preped real well either, its still early in the season though. All my mods are in my garage, im still on the stock pully right now, so that time isnt real bad considering the conditions.
I didnt either, until me and a friend both pushed on it REALLY hard for like 5 min back and forth, while he tried to convince me that was the best spot. He convinced me alright, and that weekend I drove from O'Fallon, MO (45 min outside STL) to Chicago (Arlington Heights) about a 6 hour drive there (and 1000 miles round trip) for the Midwest Meet, and back with no problems, and it hasnt moved or gotten loose or anything.
But I understand your worry, its all about how you feel
But I understand your worry, its all about how you feel
I dont have a progressive kit, its just the stage 1 with the boost switch. Im just going to keep it set around 10 for when I put on the 2.7. How much boost are you making with the 2.7?
Yea, im just more in to the subtle sleeper look. My visual mods are very small ones, just enough to change the look of the car, but you still know what it is. My performance mods will remain as hidden and secret as possible... with the exception of my crazy anoyingly loud exhaust... I need to fix that...






