2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Anyone have this issue with an interceptor?

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Old May 13, 2008 | 03:44 PM
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blownredSS's Avatar
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Anyone have this issue with an interceptor?

Yes I did search and couldn't find anything. I hooked up my interceptor, the OBDII and the red wire to the pink 12v switched on the boost gauge. However the Interceptor powers up without the key being on, as soon as I plugged the OBD in, also when I turn off the car it continues running even after I pull the key out for approx 5-10 secs, and my info display on my car says power steering. WTF? Any ideas?
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Old May 13, 2008 | 03:59 PM
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Sounds like it's getting power from the OBD II port but it's unlikely.
Have you run any power accessories to the fuse box before? The fuse for the windshield wiper (I belive it's called WPR on the fuse box sheet its a 10 amp fuse) also powers the boost gauge (I learned this on my LC-1 install ) Thats a possiblity.

Check to see if your wiper blades work while the car is off and key is out when the interceptor is on. If the wipers run then thiers your problem if not. Then somehow the interceptor is getting power from the OBD II port (Some models of cars run the interceptor power that way if I remeber right) But I'm certain the power on the OBD II on our cars isn't enough to power it thus Aeroforce told us to use switched 12v power. Is the screen really light?

Just throwing out ideas hope you figure it out.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 04:01 PM
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i have answered this like 6 times but i'll answer it again on the back of the interceptor is a little jumper take the jumper off as this is not required on the cobalts. the jumper will look like this.

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Old May 13, 2008 | 04:03 PM
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Interesting I never had that problem. But I did buy my Interceptor used so it was probably done before hand.

Let us know if it works!
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Old May 13, 2008 | 04:12 PM
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i can gaurantee you that removing that jumper will make it function properly. they are not required for some reason for the cobalts due to in what im assuming is a conflict in its power line so removing this jumper fixes that.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 04:23 PM
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Well, don't I feel like a Knob!!!! outtamymind, thanks!!!! I took it out, it's red, works great!!!!! I heard about this jumper thing and though it was actally something with a wire. Once I saw the picture it dawned on me. Thanks a bunch!!!!!
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Old May 13, 2008 | 04:23 PM
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I'll have to remember this for when mine shows up... if it ever shows up.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 04:33 PM
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What fuse do most people look into? I was thinking maybe the one for the radio if/when I get one because it might be kinda cool to have it stay on after I take the key out before I open the door like the radio does
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Old May 13, 2008 | 05:37 PM
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well you can buy a mini make a fuse and hook that into an empty fuse slot that stays on like your radio that's what i do to all the ones i've installed. and blownred no worries. the instructions word it really weird on what to do it took me a day to figure out that that is all that was causing the issues on the ones i had installed.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 03:33 PM
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Damn, I still have the same problem even after i pulled the jumper... I have it tied into my radio fuse block too, but I still have to unplug the obd connector then replug it again...?????? WTF???
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 06:22 PM
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put it on its own seperate power line. you should never tap into another power system as those system's wiring is rated for whats on that line and a little bit over just for good measure but not enough to put tapping things into it. just go out and buy a mini make a fuse and use that in an empty fuse slot that turns on/off with the key like your radio. try that and get back to us. if its still doing it then something is messed up cuz with those 2 things it should not be doing it anymore
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 08:10 PM
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use jbweld it fixes everything
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by selfinfliction
use jbweld it fixes everything
damn what a good idea!
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnsRallyYellowSS
Damn, I still have the same problem even after i pulled the jumper... I have it tied into my radio fuse block too, but I still have to unplug the obd connector then replug it again...?????? WTF???
Me also...

I installed my interceptors today... I have Dual Interceptors, I drive a 2005 Cobalt SS, I piggy backed the red wires to the pink Boost gauge wire, I then plugged it all back in and plugged in the OBDII port....

My intercepters stay on, "POWER STEERING" comes up on my dash, and my car takes about 30 seconds to turn off after I remove the key...

I did start the interceptors with the red jumpers on first, then I realized they are not supposed to be so I removed them...

My car still does the same thing

Does anyone know if there is anything else I can try?
Did having the jumpers on while it was connected to 12v screw anything up internally?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Last edited by PikerAA; Sep 26, 2011 at 10:21 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by outtamymind
i can gaurantee you that removing that jumper will make it function properly. they are not required for some reason for the cobalts due to in what im assuming is a conflict in its power line so removing this jumper fixes that.
Jumpers needed in my Balt, just plug it into the diagnostic port and it works, no wires run, 07 balt
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by C_A_D88
Jumpers needed in my Balt, just plug it into the diagnostic port and it works, no wires run, 07 balt
what year is yours because once i do believe the 08's started coming out the interceptors became universal and they may have changed a few things. i know that the older interceptors that were specific to the LSJ required removal of the jumper
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 11:03 PM
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I just recently got my interceptors this year and still needed to remove the red jumpers
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 06:10 AM
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I'm an 07
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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05 SS/SC here, again, removed jumpers, car still stays on, tapped into pink stock boost gauge wire. Gauges come on and wont turn off...
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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Try another wire not on the factory boost gauge I had mine to the sunroof and it worked just fine
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown07SS
Try another wire not on the factory boost gauge I had mine to the sunroof and it worked just fine
I am going to Walmart to buy a fuse tap later today. I'll keep everyone posted. Any suggestions on which fuse location to use? I do not have a sunroof.

Pike
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by PikerAA
I am going to Walmart to buy a fuse tap later today. I'll keep everyone posted. Any suggestions on which fuse location to use? I do not have a sunroof.

Pike
there's actually 3 or 4 empty fuse slots that will work perfectly for you if you use the mini make a fuse. so you don't have to tie into an existing circuit
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by outtamymind
there's actually 3 or 4 empty fuse slots that will work perfectly for you if you use the mini make a fuse. so you don't have to tie into an existing circuit
Yea but if all else fells just try all of them till you get it lol.
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 01:09 PM
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lol, thats what a test light is for lol. but trial and error never hurts either haha. just make sure you don't touch both negative and positive wires. that hurts just a little bit haha
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 03:19 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. If you do know which one will work for sure though it would help because if I do use one that works but the gauges still stay turned on... I will have no way of knowing if it is because of the fuse location I picked or if it is some other wiring problem.

Pike
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