IHRA Safety Requirements
IHRA Safety Requirements
What are they? Castrol Raceway at Edmonton says you gotta be up to snuff, what are people usually running? I just want to take my balt out for a couple runs and see what drag racing is all about. Been watching it with Team ACE Racing and the blown alcohol stuff for years now, I get it all, I want to get on the track now. 
Any suggestions to get started? I want to to a couple runs stock to see how much it has off the start. Yeah, it's an LS, but so what?

Any suggestions to get started? I want to to a couple runs stock to see how much it has off the start. Yeah, it's an LS, but so what?
Have fun
Chad,
Requirements are directly related to the speed/E.T. that your vehicle runs. They will usually do a visual check to make sure that your vehicle has a working overflow tank for coolant, working seat belts, working park/neutral switch (automatic tranny cars), no missing wheel studs or lug nuts, and generally check over the vehicle to assess if it is in good running order. They will check for aftermarket upgrades (read: nitrous and other power boosters) to make sure they are installed correctly and per the rulebook. Given the timeslips that your car should run, you should not be required to wear a helmet or other safety gear. Bailing wire and duct tape under the hood are not considered proper "safety gear"...
You will be required to make all your passes with the windows rolled up, so just plan ahead on that while you are in the staging lanes.
You should dress accordingly (usually long pants and close-toed shoes and a reasonable shirt). They don't want you hopping onto their track in clothes that put you at risk. Most of the racers we see running stock vehicles wear t-shirt, jeans, sneakers.
As far as courtesy and ettiquete is concerned, the starter in the middle of the two cars is "The Man". What he says, goes. If he tells you to back up, shut off, whatever, you need to comply or you can be kicked off the track. This is very rare, but I've seen it happen with people who have egos that just couldn't take it. In a stock vehicle, drive around the water box and don't try to do a burnout. This drives real racers NUTS when a stock car pretends to do a burnout. The treads in the tire drag the water onto the starting line. Your stock Cobalt will not see much difference here, but a racer with slicks right behind you often times will. If you do decide to try a burnout, remember that you are not allowed to proceed across the starting line during or immediately after the burnout, unless your car either doesn't have front brakes (ie: a dragster) or runs fast enough to justify laying down rubber across the starting line.
When you stage your car, try to do the same process everytime. This will make your times more consistent. If you want to get a faster ET, stage the car shallow (meaning roll the car into the beams slowly and try to stop just when the second set of lights comes on). If you do this, the car will actually roll 6-10 inches (depending on tire size) before the clock starts, meaning that you'll actually get a tiny "head start" and this will result in lower elapsed times. Last, and most important, if you wait until you see the green light to hammer the throttle, your reaction times will STINK. An average stock vehicle can take in excess of .5 seconds for the power to travel from the engine, through the drivetrain, and get the car moving. If you staged in shallow, stomp on the gas when you see the last yellow light come on, and you'll usually get much better reaction times.
Have a great time and be safe out there.
MLRTYME
08 Sport Coupe
www.wannaberacing.com
Requirements are directly related to the speed/E.T. that your vehicle runs. They will usually do a visual check to make sure that your vehicle has a working overflow tank for coolant, working seat belts, working park/neutral switch (automatic tranny cars), no missing wheel studs or lug nuts, and generally check over the vehicle to assess if it is in good running order. They will check for aftermarket upgrades (read: nitrous and other power boosters) to make sure they are installed correctly and per the rulebook. Given the timeslips that your car should run, you should not be required to wear a helmet or other safety gear. Bailing wire and duct tape under the hood are not considered proper "safety gear"...
You should dress accordingly (usually long pants and close-toed shoes and a reasonable shirt). They don't want you hopping onto their track in clothes that put you at risk. Most of the racers we see running stock vehicles wear t-shirt, jeans, sneakers.
As far as courtesy and ettiquete is concerned, the starter in the middle of the two cars is "The Man". What he says, goes. If he tells you to back up, shut off, whatever, you need to comply or you can be kicked off the track. This is very rare, but I've seen it happen with people who have egos that just couldn't take it. In a stock vehicle, drive around the water box and don't try to do a burnout. This drives real racers NUTS when a stock car pretends to do a burnout. The treads in the tire drag the water onto the starting line. Your stock Cobalt will not see much difference here, but a racer with slicks right behind you often times will. If you do decide to try a burnout, remember that you are not allowed to proceed across the starting line during or immediately after the burnout, unless your car either doesn't have front brakes (ie: a dragster) or runs fast enough to justify laying down rubber across the starting line.
When you stage your car, try to do the same process everytime. This will make your times more consistent. If you want to get a faster ET, stage the car shallow (meaning roll the car into the beams slowly and try to stop just when the second set of lights comes on). If you do this, the car will actually roll 6-10 inches (depending on tire size) before the clock starts, meaning that you'll actually get a tiny "head start" and this will result in lower elapsed times. Last, and most important, if you wait until you see the green light to hammer the throttle, your reaction times will STINK. An average stock vehicle can take in excess of .5 seconds for the power to travel from the engine, through the drivetrain, and get the car moving. If you staged in shallow, stomp on the gas when you see the last yellow light come on, and you'll usually get much better reaction times.
Have a great time and be safe out there.
MLRTYME
08 Sport Coupe
www.wannaberacing.com
Last edited by MLRTYME; Jul 27, 2008 at 03:53 AM. Reason: Info Added
Thanks MLRTYME! That's perfect! Makes me kinda excited to do it because I've watched so many other cars out there, it'd be fun even for a one time experience. I was reading on another site about the requirements based on E/T and I didn't think I'd even make a 14 second E/T but I haven't ever pushed my car to the limit (it's only been to 110 km/hr speed limits.
) so I didn't know. Thanks for the awesome write up!!
Thanks MLRTYME! That's perfect! Makes me kinda excited to do it because I've watched so many other cars out there, it'd be fun even for a one time experience. I was reading on another site about the requirements based on E/T and I didn't think I'd even make a 14 second E/T but I haven't ever pushed my car to the limit (it's only been to 110 km/hr speed limits.
) so I didn't know. Thanks for the awesome write up!! 
you will get better 1/4 mile times I promise. I know it's tempting to do it cause it seems like everyone else is even guys without slicks. But trust me, that water will raise your 1/4 mile times if u drive thru it and you just spin like hell off the line.
Auto-x is also called auto-cross, it's a course setup in the oval track with sharp turns, slalom runs, you have to really go for a ride with someone who knows the course to understand it. It's ALOT of fun even just going for a ride with ppl who are good at the course.
Oh! I think Castrol Raceway has one of them, but it's a dirt track. I dunno if it's just off road vehicles and dirt bikes and stuff though. They've got an oval track there too.
13.99 or quicker in the NHRA
I found this link on NHRA's website about drag racing basics. It will give any newbies a great start on information.
http://www.nhra.com/basics/index.html
Chad...a few things that I did not cover before:
-KNOW THE TRACK. Know where the turn-offs are in the shut-down area. Know where the starting line is in relation to the lights so you don't roll the beams by accident. Do a quick walk of the track before you take your first run. Know where you need to go to get your timeslip, and don't sit and read your slip at the booth. Drive to your spot in the pits, and read there. This will help the flow of race traffic move more smoothly.
-Stay with your car in the staging lanes, so you don't get caught causing a jam up when it's your lane's turn to run. Don't run your AC in the lanes, as the water condensation dripping from your vehicle may continue to the starting line. If they see liquid dripping from the car, they may stop you from running.
-The inside lane has the right-of-way at the turnoff. The lane farthest from the turnoff should either wait until the car in the near lane has cleared, or continue to the second turn-off if you don't want to wait.
-Relax in the car! Most people get nervous the first time out, and don't enjoy the passes they make. Of course, you should be aware of what the car is doing, but if you are relaxed, chances are you'll be less prone to make a mistake or do something foolish.
-Most important...if your car starts to move towards the wall or the centerline, just get out of the throttle. 1- Your time isn't going to be that great anyway, if your car is all over the lane...2- Stay safe for yourself and your opponent. Famous last words are "I thought I could save it."
Enjoy yourself! I'm not the world's fastest racer or anything, but just so you don't think you're talking to some idiot who only races benches, here's me in the car I built and race at an event at Speedworld Motorplex:
http://members.***.net/mlrtyme1/dragster/burnout.jpg
Have a great time at the track. If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask!
MLRTYME
'08 Sport Coupe
www.wannaberacing.com
Last edited by MLRTYME; Jul 30, 2008 at 02:15 AM. Reason: Corrected Spelling
Definately, try to relax, crank up some toons, drink some water, try not to feel overpowered by all the faster cars around you. When you get to the line don't think at all about winning or beating the other guy, just focus on making smooth shifts and not spinning off the line. The first time I ever raced anyone was 5 years ago street racing in an 89 Ford Probe GT, I nearly hit ppl both times I went out because I burned off the line(torque steer=baddd) and I even jumped the arm drop too cause i was so nervous. I was much more relaxed at race city, less pressure to perform and lots of support around wanting you to make the best pass you can. The track is a good place to be and I personally can't wait to get back for auto-x this friday.
Yeah, it'd be fun, for sure! I'm thinking about talking my boss into coming with her SS/SC and pairing us up. That'd be a fun race. I'd be seeing her ass end the whole way. :P
Thanks for all the awesome tips from everyone, it'll really help to cool my nerves before I go down the track. When I get out there I'll let you know and have someone take pictures for me, and then I'll scan my first track slip.
Thanks for all the awesome tips from everyone, it'll really help to cool my nerves before I go down the track. When I get out there I'll let you know and have someone take pictures for me, and then I'll scan my first track slip.
i think the guys pretty much covered everything other then don't be afraid to chat with the guys there. chances are they've been racing at castrol for a while and know some of the tips and tricks to the track and drag racing in general and they're there for the same reason you are to have fun and race and i know the guys down here in calgary are more then willing to share their wisdom and give some advice. oh if your brave enough and want to try something to help bring your times down a bit is try lowering your front tire pressures a little bit i would say no more then 5psi for your tires.
I'm at the exact psi that's in the door, five less than that? I guess that'd increase tire on the track, but there's already a compound on the track. I think I'll do my runs with the 30 or whatever psi that I have in there now. :P
I know a couple of the guys down there already from being there so much with the blown alcohol funny cars, so hearing that the track is a little rough is kinda commonplace to me. :P
I know a couple of the guys down there already from being there so much with the blown alcohol funny cars, so hearing that the track is a little rough is kinda commonplace to me. :P
ya your's should be stock at 30psi but remember when you heat your tires up they will inflate by as much as 5psi so releasing 5 psi will sure put you at 25psi cold but when you heat it up it will be more like 30psi while maintaining as much tire to road contact as possible with mine stock is 35psi i put my front tires down to usually 27psi (if i go lower then that i risk messing with my sidewall) and i leave my rears alone which due to heat are usually pretty close to 40psi and personally the difference isn't huge but you should be able to shave a tenth or 2 off your track time.
Unless your running slicks or your a hardcore gotta make up every 0.1 seconds i can on my 1/4 mile run in a STOCK LS cobalt.........tire psi is not gunna change much of anything for this guy unless he goes to the auto-x side.
Actually, I talked to a friend that owns an alcohol funny car and he said that yes, lower psi in your drive tires will improve your times by a couple tenths. It's because more surface area of the tire is driving the vehicle. Makes sense if you think about it... just not too hard!
exactly and since you and me are still running stock tires you don't want to ruin the side wall which is why i recommend for you not to go more then 5psi lower then stock. i go 8 but i'm crazy like that.
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