How bout these wheels? And some questions
How bout these wheels? And some questions
Alright, so I found the wheels I want. I know they will look crazy on a cobalt.
Street lite specialties

I'm going to get 4, 17x8's as a daily rim and get 2 15x8's as drag wheels for my slicks. I'm willing to bet they will look sick as hell.
Problem is, they only come in 5x4 1/2 and 5x4 3/4. Our bolt pattern is smaller than both. So I am going to do the cheapest thing and get some wheel spacer/adaptors. I'm trying to find some but not having good luck. Is anyone using a spacer/adaptor and where did you get it from?
Thanks. Comments welcome.
anyone got anything?
Street lite specialties

I'm going to get 4, 17x8's as a daily rim and get 2 15x8's as drag wheels for my slicks. I'm willing to bet they will look sick as hell.
Problem is, they only come in 5x4 1/2 and 5x4 3/4. Our bolt pattern is smaller than both. So I am going to do the cheapest thing and get some wheel spacer/adaptors. I'm trying to find some but not having good luck. Is anyone using a spacer/adaptor and where did you get it from?
Thanks. Comments welcome.
anyone got anything?
Last edited by ralliartist; Oct 22, 2008 at 01:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
well, they are 9lb aluminum wheels. And yes, I'm definitely going to grind the calipers down to fit the 15's with slicks. But I think the 17's would look phenominal and on a good set of drag radials for the street, it would probably feel like a totally different car. I got a better picture of the rims if anyone wants to do a photoshop onto my car.




Last edited by ralliartist; Oct 22, 2008 at 02:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You need a old Camaro to run them, not a Cobalt. Its an easy enough mistake to make I'm just glad we caught it before you spent your money on them.
They look great but IDK if theyll have an offset to fit FWD car.
They look great but IDK if theyll have an offset to fit FWD car.
Did you check and see if your local track will LET you use wheel adaptors so you can run them? I know the tracks around here have turned people away with them. You may want to check NHRA and IHRA rules and see if its alowed on your class of car before you spend all that money just to be turned away at the tech lane.
Did you check and see if your local track will LET you use wheel adaptors so you can run them? I know the tracks around here have turned people away with them. You may want to check NHRA and IHRA rules and see if its alowed on your class of car before you spend all that money just to be turned away at the tech lane.
Did you check and see if your local track will LET you use wheel adaptors so you can run them? I know the tracks around here have turned people away with them. You may want to check NHRA and IHRA rules and see if its alowed on your class of car before you spend all that money just to be turned away at the tech lane.
I think these would look great on a balt but I say just get them custom drilled.
I don't ever plan to put stock rims on once they are gone. They are so heavy and way to big. I'm just not a fan of 18" wheels.
if you guys know anyone good with photoshop, tell them too hook those pics up, I'm curious as to what they might "potentially" look like.
Last edited by ralliartist; Oct 22, 2008 at 03:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
So contact Billet Specialites an dsee if they can custom drill you a set and do it the right way.
PS ANYTIME you run aftermarket wheels the techs can request you pull one to show that the studs go thru the wheel far enough and that the lug nuts hold it by enough threads. Thats why you see the extra long suds on the rear wheels of like Mustangs that sick thru the lug nuts, its so the techs CAN'T question them.
PS ANYTIME you run aftermarket wheels the techs can request you pull one to show that the studs go thru the wheel far enough and that the lug nuts hold it by enough threads. Thats why you see the extra long suds on the rear wheels of like Mustangs that sick thru the lug nuts, its so the techs CAN'T question them.
So contact Billet Specialites an dsee if they can custom drill you a set and do it the right way.
PS ANYTIME you run aftermarket wheels the techs can request you pull one to show that the studs go thru the wheel far enough and that the lug nuts hold it by enough threads. Thats why you see the extra long suds on the rear wheels of like Mustangs that sick thru the lug nuts, its so the techs CAN'T question them.
PS ANYTIME you run aftermarket wheels the techs can request you pull one to show that the studs go thru the wheel far enough and that the lug nuts hold it by enough threads. Thats why you see the extra long suds on the rear wheels of like Mustangs that sick thru the lug nuts, its so the techs CAN'T question them.
Obviously you could drill the more common 114.3mm pattern into your current hubs. You may even be able to use larger studs and offset drill using the production holes as a starting point and get oversized studs in the new pattern without drilling extra holes in the flange. Clearly either of these choices would be MUCH cheaper than buying new hubs, custom axles and potentially knuckles(and therefore brakes)
thanks man, that looks pretty crazy. I'm sure it'll look better in real person, but at least that give me an idea.
I'm being told differently by someone that has actually done it. They said they did it for a track cobalt that races on road courses. But they said with small modification, the 99 grand am wheel bearing fit. Spline count is the same and all. The rear is a little more difficult but he says he has a bracket already made to do it. They said once they did that, the wheel variety got a lot bigger and they were able to pick up some lightweight racing rims for a mustang that bolted right up.
Its been done for years on the GAC/Koni Challenge cars and drag cars...... Have you ever seen it done on the street? Its not a simple bolt on. You need a different outer bell for your axles, as the G/A hubs use a different splined axle then the Balt does. And if I am not mistaken the drag cars dont even use the Balt sterring knuckle, they switch to the G/A unit.
Obviously you could drill the more common 114.3mm pattern into your current hubs. You may even be able to use larger studs and offset drill using the production holes as a starting point and get oversized studs in the new pattern without drilling extra holes in the flange. Clearly either of these choices would be MUCH cheaper than buying new hubs, custom axles and potentially knuckles(and therefore brakes)
Obviously you could drill the more common 114.3mm pattern into your current hubs. You may even be able to use larger studs and offset drill using the production holes as a starting point and get oversized studs in the new pattern without drilling extra holes in the flange. Clearly either of these choices would be MUCH cheaper than buying new hubs, custom axles and potentially knuckles(and therefore brakes)
Last edited by ralliartist; Oct 23, 2008 at 02:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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