These new mounts rotate the engine and trans to align the axles. This does two things, it eliminates wheel hop and it helps your axles/trans case survive. Unlike poly mounts these are far less harsh. You will have 3 options when ordering.

Stage 1 will use a rotated front mount with a spacer under the stock rear mount. This is for sub 300whp cars. There will be no vibrations from the mounts.

Stage 2 will be the same as stage 1 but it will use a lnf rear mount with spacer inplace of the lsj mount.

stage 3 will use both a front and back rotated mount setup and still use the spacer. This is for the avid drag racer, these will have slightly more vibration then stock but nothing close to poly.

Pricing

stage 1.
stage 2.
stage 3.

There will also be a core charge on these of $100 a mount. These have to be sold installed as shown because the mounts are precisely clocked.


Rear mount
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/fast98/mounts008.jpg

Both mounts with spacer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/fast98/mountsarms001.jpg

Both mounts with spacer under mount
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/fast98/mountsarms002.jpg

These will be ready to ship for NOV.24

i dont get it :lol: my polys rock.

i dont get it :lol: my polys rock.

no more vibes and you wont have to worry about axles as much

i dont get it :lol: my polys rock.

Polys don't fix the problem. By rotating the engine you eliminate wheel hop and by using rubber you don't get the bad vibrations that poly has.

so i dont get where they mount to. the 3 triangle pattern

so if I don't have mounts that I can send to you and want the stage 3 then you are talking about 600 before tax right?

I've had these mounts in my car for a months now, and no other traction modification out there can compair to them. At my shop I now have a nice big circle laid out rubber that I'm quite proud of and I know for a fact would not be possible without them. Having been modifing my '04 Redline since well before the majority of people had any idea it existed, I've tried just about everything, so, I know far better than most what is out there and how well it works. This is the BEST solution to wheel hop out there. Hands down. It should be, as these cars are the guys GM had address the problem on the Cobalt Cup Race cars, afterall. John's knowledge and Josh's backing make for a easy buy from a great group of guys.

Thus my rating is A+

so i dont get where they mount to. the 3 triangle pattern
The pictures show the rotated mounts inside of the stock aluminum mounting brackets. The bolt up just like stock because they are stock brackets:)
so if I don't have mounts that I can send to you and want the stage 3 then you are talking about 600 before tax right?

Yes sir, but once you take off your stock ones you just send them in and get refunded.

here is a vid of the mounts installed with a 4k launch on 235 wide tires, had i still been using my poli mounts i would most likely have broken something at my power levels.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/wheel-hop-reduction_199247.htm

so your using front lower control arm bushings in the mount and the only real difference is the spacer?

so really the guys with poly just need the spacer? correct?

no the mounts are offset.... ditch the poly... I got my set last week, just don't have time to install sine I have to take a bunch of shit out of the way to get to the rear mount

so your using front lower control arm bushings in the mount and the only real difference is the spacer?

so really the guys with poly just need the spacer? correct?

No if you look closely at the pics you will see that the control arm bushing is offset in the mount.

ok say i have a press and can rotate the mount my self, then all i would need is the spacer for the rear mount?

you guys keep coming out with new stuff that actually works. I'll wait for these to come out and it should be awesome if they actually cut down on the vibes throughout the car. Paul, you need to hurry up and tell me about these so I can get a set next month.

so your using front lower control arm bushings in the mount and the only real difference is the spacer?

so really the guys with poly just need the spacer? correct?

if you look at the mounts like everyone said the spacer in the middle is not centered it's offset, what it does is rotates the tranny and motor so the differential is better aligned with the wheel hub. another great thing about these is the vibrations inside the car are significantly reduced from the poli mounts. i have run both.

no the mounts are offset.... ditch the poly... I got my set last week, just don't have time to install sine I have to take a bunch of shit out of the way to get to the rear mount
so your the one john sent the mounts to before me, u bastard ha

ahhhhh ok i see now so the front one is off set... so your only doing the 2 mounts.. the top mount doesn't get affected by the movement?


it worries about the amount of power those lower control arm bushings can handle... i see those things break everyday at work


but the kit deff looks pretty well made.. 300+ tho seems a little steep but deff seems to be something useful for sure

So Josh, do these work well with lowered cars?
I assume the stage 3 are for those of us with heavily modified cars?

so with stage 1 is it just a front mount and the spacer for the rear mount??? what is the difference between an lsj rear mount and an lnf mount??? i do like the fact that your using a smaller solid rubber bushing instead of poly. is that actualy a control arm bushing??? if so i guess that works great as if its ever damaged the bushing isnt hard to get.

ive been loking at rotating the engine by building different mount brackets, i never thought of doing it this way as i dont have the machining capabilities to do that. my only concern is what about the upper mounts??? will the upper engine mount and tranny mount survive being twisted??? what about aftermarket upper mounts??? with a urethane upper mount unable to twist, it this going to put too much stress on the mount brakets or the tranny case???

one other question, how much difference does this make with the height of the axle off a given point??? im interested to know how much closer my driveline angle will be to what it was stock.

it worries about the amount of power those lower control arm bushings can handle... i see those things break everyday at work


i myself arent concerned about the bushings breaking. ive used controll arm bushings for mounts before. in this application the bushing always have a load across the whole bushing. in a controll arm they have a lot of twisting forces on them and thats why they rip.

Too much $. I'll stick with my polys.

so with stage 1 is it just a front mount and the spacer for the rear mount??? what is the difference between an lsj rear mount and an lnf mount??? i do like the fact that your using a smaller solid rubber bushing instead of poly. is that actualy a control arm bushing??? if so i guess that works great as if its ever damaged the bushing isnt hard to get.

ive been loking at rotating the engine by building different mount brackets, i never thought of doing it this way as i dont have the machining capabilities to do that. my only concern is what about the upper mounts??? will the upper engine mount and tranny mount survive being twisted??? what about aftermarket upper mounts??? with a urethane upper mount unable to twist, it this going to put too much stress on the mount brakets or the tranny case???

one other question, how much difference does this make with the height of the axle off a given point??? im interested to know how much closer my driveline angle will be to what it was stock.

Yes they are brand new control arm bushings and they are very durable. Also as you stated they are easy to get and replace. The lnf mount is just a little firmer then the lsj, it helps transfer power on the high HP cars. The upper trans mount is very lose and has no problem twisting anywhere, the upper engine mount also has room to move but not as much as the upper trans. You will not want to run a poly upper with this setup, it's simply not needed. The driveline angle is now straight with these mounts, the only movement you will see it that the engine is slightly closer to the firewall.

ok say i have a press and can rotate the mount my self, then all i would need is the spacer for the rear mount?

amazing. anybody can copy stuff. I wont tell you the clock, figure it out yourself, you can watercut a keyhole spacer if you want, hell you can grind the s**t out of your mount so you dont nned to , it wont matter until it breaks, and the bushings are not sold by GM as a separate part. We use a jig to replicate the job. It is always possible to jap this stuff that is the road to hell. Go ahead. and when you screw it up you can post here, and if it doesn't screw up you can give yourself a big old pat on the back...and buy a toyota.

Too much $. I'll stick with my polys.

These really aren't that bad. They are bolt in, you can do it in your driveway and don't have to take it somewhere. You also don't have to buy any other traction mods. :)

so with stage 1 is it just a front mount and the spacer for the rear mount??? what is the difference between an lsj rear mount and an lnf mount??? i do like the fact that your using a smaller solid rubber bushing instead of poly. is that actualy a control arm bushing??? if so i guess that works great as if its ever damaged the bushing isnt hard to get.

ive been loking at rotating the engine by building different mount brackets, i never thought of doing it this way as i dont have the machining capabilities to do that. my only concern is what about the upper mounts??? will the upper engine mount and tranny mount survive being twisted??? what about aftermarket upper mounts??? with a urethane upper mount unable to twist, it this going to put too much stress on the mount brakets or the tranny case???

one other question, how much difference does this make with the height of the axle off a given point??? im interested to know how much closer my driveline angle will be to what it was stock.



i myself arent concerned about the bushings breaking. ive used controll arm bushings for mounts before. in this application the bushing always have a load across the whole bushing. in a controll arm they have a lot of twisting forces on them and thats why they rip.
sharkey is right. the lfca goes up and down and in and out kinda like Darmanx on a good night :lol: and the axle solution is almost perfect....if it was not it would not work, kinda like poly mounts sold by others...

Fast, I threw you a PM.. Cobalt 2.4's?

I will ask for others with the JBP header, how much is slightly closer to the firewall?

Fast, I threw you a PM.. Cobalt 2.4's?

working on it asap Fast can let you know....did not think they had a problem shows how isolated we are in our tiny little sc/tc universe....:lol:

Fast, I threw you a PM.. Cobalt 2.4's?

i watched a trailblazer take out a cement barrier head one at 140 mph once in testing awesome truck driver walked away

amazing. anybody can copy stuff. I wont tell you the clock, figure it out yourself, you can watercut a keyhole spacer if you want, hell you can grind the s**t out of your mount so you dont nned to , it wont matter until it breaks, and the bushings are not sold by GM as a separate part. We use a jig to replicate the job. It is always possible to jap this stuff that is the road to hell. Go ahead. and when you screw it up you can post here, and if it doesn't screw up you can give yourself a big old pat on the back...and buy a toyota.

call down buddy.first off im a flat rate tech. so i dont have that kind of money to shell out for some mounts. this would not be the first time i rotated mounts thats not that hard to figure out. all i wanted to kno is if i did that then all i would need to buy from you is that key hole spacer and how much would that cost me.

I will ask for others with the JBP header, how much is slightly closer to the firewall?

About a half inch closer. Thats 1.27cm for you :lol:

call down buddy.first off im a flat rate tech. so i dont have that kind of money to shell out for some mounts. this would not be the first time i rotated mounts thats not that hard to figure out. all i wanted to kno is if i did that then all i would need to buy from you is that key hole spacer and how much would that cost me.

The key hole spacer will not be sold seperately. This is a kit, also the mounts are offset the motor is what is rotated.

About a half inch closer. Thats 1.27cm for you :lol:



The key hole spacer will not be sold seperately. This is a kit, also the mounts are offset the motor is what is rotated.

:p::lol:

would we have to revert back to the stock engine mount once installing these mounts or would my solid engine mount be just fine?

im also a little concerned about firewall/floor clearance as i have a clear image mid length header. im not so concerned about that as i am my exhaust as i built it to sit quite high in the tunnel as it is (its all custom). this is something i can change however.

very interested, im sick of the driveline vibrations.

So is this how the stock LNF cars come stock or is applicable to them aswell? Are these stiffer than the stock bushing at all? The stock LSJ mounts were horrible and allowed TONS of movement. So yea these might help with wheel hop and axle stress but what about power transfer? The stock mounts pretty much let the engine flop around like a fish our of water will this prevent that?

working on it asap Fast can let you know....did not think they had a problem shows how isolated we are in our tiny little sc/tc universe....:lol:



i watched a trailblazer take out a cement barrier head one at 140 mph once in testing awesome truck driver walked away

Thanks man, He PM'd me. Yeah. My 2.4 Is horrible right now. And with building my head up in January, I'm thinking i need some more supporting mods. So, You've got at least one 2.4 that is 110% in on this.


I don't think i've had it over 85, But it has been a solid truck. I love it. Only gets driven on good days :-)

About a half inch closer. Thats 1.27cm for you :lol:



The key hole spacer will not be sold seperately. This is a kit, also the mounts are offset the motor is what is rotated.

Alrights thanks, thats all i needed to kno. ill either wait till i can afford it or figure it out myself

:p::lol:

it actually moves the top of the motor away from the firewall and the bottom closer, using the axis of the mount centerline as your pivot point for calculations....:) i am thinking if Pauls voodoo motor can handle it yours can as well....

good question Rob, will there be room back there???

call down buddy.first off im a flat rate tech. so i dont have that kind of money to shell out for some mounts. this would not be the first time i rotated mounts thats not that hard to figure out. all i wanted to kno is if i did that then all i would need to buy from you is that key hole spacer and how much would that cost me.

i m calm that doesnt mean i have to like it. I am poor like you, and it looks like I may stay that way :lol:

I will ask for others with the JBP header, how much is slightly closer to the firewall?

migod i cant resist...ready? NOTHING works with the JBP header. Rimshot There . I said it :lol::lol:

it actually moves the top of the motor away from the firewall and the bottom closer, using the axis of the mount centerline as your pivot point for calculations....:) i am thinking if Pauls voodoo motor can handle it yours can as well....

So if it is moving the top of the engine forward, how does it affect clearance for the blower pulley?
Right now I have the 80mm pulley on the Harrop and there is little clearance between the pulley/belt and the front upper frame rail.

So is this how the stock LNF cars come stock or is applicable to them aswell? Are these stiffer than the stock bushing at all? The stock LSJ mounts were horrible and allowed TONS of movement. So yea these might help with wheel hop and axle stress but what about power transfer? The stock mounts pretty much let the engine flop around like a fish our of water will this prevent that?

No stock lnf cars just come with different bushings. These will work on lnf's, for the lnf you would just need the stage 1 and skip the stage 2. These don't allow much movement at all way less then the lsj bushings and slightly less then the lnf. Because of them being firmer they will help with power transfer also.

So if it is moving the top of the engine forward, how does it affect clearance for the blower pulley?
Right now I have the 80mm pulley on the Harrop and there is little clearance between the pulley/belt and the front upper frame rail.

i think you should buy a smaller pulley

i think you should buy a smaller pulley

the Koni cars used a stock pulley thats bigger than 3.1 so unless the harrop is taller i cant see an issue, the actual movement is not a landslide here, and there is a reason beyond cost that GM didn't incorporate the idea in the LNF, their requirements for clearances are way beyond what you and i consider, things like front barrier crash movement, that is to say movement of the transaxle which is designed to go down and not straight back into the driver passenger compartment in a crash, and also GM have clearances for exhaust etc etc it all goes on for ever the criteria that have to be met.


At the end of the day they did not not do it, your fortune is that Josh at OTTP is selling the solution and it will most likely work for you with a Harrop.

the Koni cars used a stock pulley thats bigger than 3.1 so unless the harrop is taller i cant see an issue, the actual movement is not a landslide here, and there is a reason beyond cost that GM didn't incorporate the idea in the LNF, their requirements for clearances are way beyond what you and i consider, things like front barrier crash movement, that is to say movement of the transaxle which is designed to go down and not straight back into the driver passenger compartment in a crash, and also GM have clearances for exhaust etc etc it all goes on for ever the criteria that have to be met.


At the end of the day they did not not do it, your fortune is that Josh at OTTP is selling the solution and it will most likely work for you with a Harrop.

speaking of clearances my compressor housing still clears the firewall, not bad considering it's a t04e.

i may have missed this , but what exactly comes with the stage 1 and 2 kit??? is stage 1 just the front mount and the rear spacer (no rear mount)??? is stage 2 the front mount, rear spacer and lnf mount insert??? is the core charge included in the price or is that over and above???

you have to pay to play. money dictates how fast you go.

you have to pay to play. money dictates how fast you go.

no one realizes that anymore, everyone wants cheap performance. in this business you get what you pay for.

I just want something that I know is going to work. If it does help eliminate wheel hop, and it'll work with my tvs and jbp header (no comment...) and with less vibes, I don't care if it costs a little to get it. I just want something that works.

it will work just fine.

I just hate feeling I'm on the inside of a vibrator everytime I start my car. My girl said she enjoyed it at first though.

get some subs. they like that too

Nothing wrong w/ a little vibration :-D

------

Do you guys plan on offering the entire front and rear mount assembly?

Unfortunately I can't go a day w/o driving the car. So taking off my mounts and sending them in isn't an option for me... :(

get some subs. they like that too

Got two 12's in the trunk, but I can't hear it all that well with the 3" exhaust and the mounts. I'm adding some sound deadening inside the car to hear the music better.

Nothing wrong w/ a little vibration :-D

------

Do you guys plan on offering the entire front and rear mount assembly?

Unfortunately I can't go a day w/o driving the car. So taking off my mounts and sending them in isn't an option for me... :(

I don't complain about a little vibes, but what I had was insane.

As for the mounts, they'll send you a set to trade out but you'll have to give them an extra 100 per mount before they get yours back and they'll refund upon receipt of your old ones.

gotcha

Got two 12's in the trunk, but I can't hear it all that well with the 3" exhaust and the mounts. I'm adding some sound deadening inside the car to hear the music better.



I don't complain about a little vibes, but what I had was insane.

As for the mounts, they'll send you a set to trade out but you'll have to give them an extra 100 per mount before they get yours back and they'll refund upon receipt of your old ones.

I m with you on the vibes. when i set out to eliminate them i firts stuck on the Grand Am race mounts we do, as i know they work, but you know how it is in a race car you never pay attention. So i put them on my dd redline, started up horrendous vibes backed out of the shop, took off in first gear, looked in the mirror and all i could see was a shaking mirror. it was awful. I stopped made a U turn back to the shop took them off. A week later , the result is what we are selling through OTTP it works and the vibes are gone.

I laugh when i hear "the poly mounts break in and the vibes get better" cause what it means is the poly immediately wears out and lets the motor move. In another way, poly mounts are no better than the insane poly flca suspension bushings. Redonkulous.

I have to say that I believed that they would somewhat break in and calm down. Of course that didn't happen, and I am surprised I didn't have any fillings fall out. I do believe you guys and in these mounts that they will be all you say.

i may have missed this , but what exactly comes with the stage 1 and 2 kit??? is stage 1 just the front mount and the rear spacer (no rear mount)??? is stage 2 the front mount, rear spacer and lnf mount insert??? is the core charge included in the price or is that over and above???

I really hope the core is in the total price, the price is absurd. Pay to play is one thing, pay because you don't know any better is another. Maybe I don't under stand what you are getting here, but it seems you are paying $325+ for a insert and spacer? If the handling and installation of the inserts and mounts are driving the price up make a paper template with instructions and a mark on the insert so it can be aligned and call it a day.




I laugh when i hear "the poly mounts break in and the vibes get better" cause what it means is the poly immediately wears out and lets the motor move. In another way, poly mounts are no better than the insane poly flca suspension bushings. Redonkulous.

When the poly mounts heat up they become softer and the vibes are less, hints why there are more vibes in the winter. I think people just get used to them for the most part. To say that they wear out every time is just not true. I am sure that happens in some cases but thats with anything. I checked mine after a year of use, pulled the mounts out wiped them off and they looked like new. I will admit the vibes are quit a bit more than stock, but I suppose I got used to them and it didn't really bother me.

i think you should buy a smaller pulley

...... At the end of the day they did not not do it, your fortune is that Josh at OTTP is selling the solution and it will most likely work for you with a Harrop.

If all goes well tomorrow, we reconnect the meth this coming week and then pully down as I have bought both a 75 & 70 from Josh. :cool:

I really hope the core is in the total price, the price is absurd. Pay to play is one thing, pay because you don't know any better is another. Maybe I don't under stand what you are getting here, but it seems you are paying $325+ for a insert and spacer? If the handling and installation of the inserts and mounts are driving the price up make a paper template with instructions and a mark on the insert so it can be aligned and call it a day.






When the poly mounts heat up they become softer and the vibes are less, hints why there are more vibes in the winter. I think people just get used to them for the most part. To say that they wear out every time is just not true. I am sure that happens in some cases but thats with anything. I checked mine after a year of use, pulled the mounts out wiped them off and they looked like new. I will admit the vibes are quit a bit more than stock, but I suppose I got used to them and it didn't really bother me.


The $325 doesn't include the core charge. Also you realize you are telling the guy who built the time attack cobalts for gm about poly right?;)

fast, i'll be getting these eventually. guess it's time to look for a buyer for my brand new poly's and TTR upper.

Maybe I don't under stand what you are getting here, but it seems you are paying $325+ for a insert and spacer?


No, you are also paying for the research and developement (R&D).

Why should a vendor develop a solution to a problem, and not receive remuneration?

im real interested in the product, but i wont be ordering. i cant justify the cost of it for what i get, even if it does take away all the vibes.

im real interested in the product, but i wont be ordering. i cant justify the cost of it for what i get, even if it does take away all the vibes.

Ahh, that is the real problem with online merchandising. Why can't you justify the cost? Are you saying that wheel hop is not a problem?, Or are you saying that you want a hot setup that solves the problem, and that doesn't cost you too much money! If the later is the reason, then go for poly mounts. Cheap'n'cheerful.

But if you want an engineered solution, it will cost to a degree. Nothing in life is free, unless it is worthless to begin with.

i already have poly mounts and a torque damper, i dont get much wheel hop, i dont currently race (will be next year). what im after is getting rid of the vibrations caused by the driveline angle.

i have fabrication skills and a welder. im able to make my own mounts. for me its having the time to pull them out and design a mount. keeping in mind that im in canda, right now the stage 1 kit will cost be $425-$450 by the time i have it in my hands. thats a lot for one mount and a spacer. if these mounts were more affordable id jump right at it and order them. instead ill continue with what i was designing, fab them up and put them in and have my own custom set of mounts that will do the same job, most likley for around $50 or less in materials.

yes speed does cost, but the begining of hot-rodding was guys working in their garage fabricating their own components, making things work that had no hope of "bolting in".

this is the wheel hop answer we have all been looking for, designed and proven by the guy that built the time-attack cars. IT WORKS, end of story.

like area said, you gotta pay to play, don't whine about it.

im not whining. i know these guys make a lot of great products, props to them for that. i dont doubt that these mounts work, but for the cost of them, i can build something myself, as i was planning to (i started looking into this about 6 months ago, just no time), and it will work just as well. money i save here can better be put towards stuff i cant build. thats the reason i built my own exhaust, strut tower brace, and have plans for my own lower subframe brace.

for those that don't believe that they work, take a look at jimbo's ss video on streetfire.net. It clearly shows lack of wheel hop at all. I will be getting a set of them, the stage 3 at that, because I can tell that they work.

i already have poly mounts and a torque damper, i dont get much wheel hop, i dont currently race (will be next year). what im after is getting rid of the vibrations caused by the driveline angle.

i have fabrication skills and a welder. im able to make my own mounts. for me its having the time to pull them out and design a mount. keeping in mind that im in canda, right now the stage 1 kit will cost be $425-$450 by the time i have it in my hands. thats a lot for one mount and a spacer. if these mounts were more affordable id jump right at it and order them. instead ill continue with what i was designing, fab them up and put them in and have my own custom set of mounts that will do the same job, most likley for around $50 or less in materials.

yes speed does cost, but the begining of hot-rodding was guys working in their garage fabricating their own components, making things work that had no hope of "bolting in".

Sharkey I can have them shipped to you from our canada friends for ~$350, correct me if I'm wrong but when a canadian ships to a canadian there is no fee's.

The $325 doesn't include the core charge. Also you realize you are telling the guy who built the time attack cobalts for gm about poly right?;)

What does the time attack cobalt have to do with what I said? I just explained that most people just get use to them and think they are "breaking in" Also that mine were pulled out and they did not just break apart they still looked new. I wasn't trying to teach somebody a lesion and challenge what they know.

No, you are also paying for the research and developement (R&D).

Why should a vendor develop a solution to a problem, and not receive remuneration?

Nobody is asking them to give them away. If it was a an entire machined mount thats one thing, but they are using a stock mount and popping in a new bushing and giving a spacers. Do you not thing there were any research in the other mounts? The research cost should be a small part of the overall cost of the piece. This is why I asked if I did not understand what all came with the mount, not that I wanted them to start giving them away. I am not trying to start trouble for or with this vendor, I just don't want to pay more than something is worth. If that is all you get IMO that is not worth it. I am not a cheap/poor bastard by any means. This may also be something that would higher up on the list of the JSJ guys over the LNF guys. I have 0 wheel hop in the TC.

I already have all of the solid mounts in my DD (mounts soon for sale). I will be pulling these out and installing the rotated mounts once I received them. Right now I get zero wheel hop, so why am I changing them?
I want the added security for when I am at the track next year. I want to minimise the possibility of damage to my axles and transmission. The cost of these mounts vs the cost of a new transaxle makes this a no brainer to me.
Then again, what do I know?

What does the time attack cobalt have to do with what I said? I just explained that most people just get use to them and think they are "breaking in" Also that mine were pulled out and they did not just break apart they still looked new. I wasn't trying to teach somebody a lesion and challenge what they know.



Nobody is asking them to give them away. If it was a an entire machined mount thats one thing, but they are using a stock mount and popping in a new bushing and giving a spacers. Do you not thing there were any research in the other mounts? The research cost should be a small part of the overall cost of the piece. This is why I asked if I did not understand what all came with the mount, not that I wanted them to start giving them away. I am not trying to start trouble for or with this vendor, I just don't want to pay more than something is worth. If that is all you get IMO that is not worth it. I am not a cheap/poor bastard by any means. This may also be something that would higher up on the list of the JSJ guys over the LNF guys. I have 0 wheel hop in the TC.


Lol if you get zero hop then I can see why you don't want to buy them, I wouldn't either. ;)

Sharkey I can have them shipped to you from our canada friends for ~$350, correct me if I'm wrong but when a canadian ships to a canadian there is no fee's.


if its being shipping within canada there is no taxes, however when they cross the border you have to pay gst and pst (general sales tax or 5%, provincial sales tax, it varrier but were i am its 7%). we are lucky that car parts have no duty charges on top of that. keep in mind that the canadian dollar has taken a dump (back down to $0.80 us). if i do decide to order them, ill have to wait till the dollar is better.

Lol if you get zero hop then I can see why you don't want to buy them, I wouldn't either. ;)

i don't think wheel hop is a big deal to any of the LNF cobalt's but I could be mistaken. I would however like to stiffen up the engine so it doesn't move as much, but I am not sure I want to go back to the vibes in something i am going to be carrying a newborn in.

I'd like to see a modified front mount next to a stock front mount - I couldn't tell the difference. Also, I have an 04, I'm guessing a solution for those doesn't exist yet since those mounts looked like the 05+?

For the top tier, I'm assuming that once we send you our stock mounts it only comes out to $400 +SH, yes? 500 initially then we send you our front and get a $100 refund?

for those that don't believe that they work, take a look at jimbo's ss video on streetfire.net. It clearly shows lack of wheel hop at all. I will be getting a set of them, the stage 3 at that, because I can tell that they work.

It clearly sounded like it WAS hopping. >_>

The other thing that the poly bushings did was make shifting a lot firmer because the transmission didn't move when you engage the clutch. Going back to stock bushings (even in a rotated transmission) means it will be sloppy shifting again, yes?

Lastly, are you actually making the front mounts from scratch or just machining the stock ones? The price sounds high if the latter is the case ($400 for some machining, a small spacer and stock bushings?). Some may say "well what about the R&D costs?" - John said they were developed inside a week. I can't imagine he spent THAT much in a week unless he went on a bender of coke and hookers, besides, if the product really works, it'll sell in volume, so you can afford to reduce your profit margin. Having another new, even more expensive product in a long line of products 'that are guaranteed to stop hop' smells funny when you could clearly hear the wheels hopping in that video.

The reaction to this seems like the generic bandwagon mentality I've seen with every other hop reduction product. When I was stock I looked into the torque dampeners and traction bars, and everyone I asked said 'Oh these are awesome and stop hop, use them!' but it didn't stop it. Then I looked into poly bushings and a solid motor mount and everyone I asked about those said 'Oh these are awesome and stop hop more than dampers, use them instead!' except they didn't, and now everyone in this thread is running around shouting 'Oh those were crap and don't work, but these do, honest!' and while John knows more about these transmissions than most anyone else, it sounds really sketchy. I'd love to drive a car with these installed to see the difference, but I'm not about to drop $400 and find out they also don't work, just like every other product that "solves wheel hop."

Just my opinion. Good luck with it.

I'm very interested!

would there be a need to upgrade the motor mount also?

I am interested, but confused... To install these, you have to physically rotate the engine? How would one be able to do this in their driveway?

I like the sound of this mod, but I would personally really benefit from some kind of how to... Might just be me, I am somewhat of a newb

I am interested, but confused... To install these, you have to physically rotate the engine? How would one be able to do this in their driveway?

I like the sound of this mod, but I would personally really benefit from some kind of how to... Might just be me, I am somewhat of a newb

I have a how to for it, I'll post it up tonight.

I'd like to see a modified front mount next to a stock front mount - I couldn't tell the difference. Also, I have an 04, I'm guessing a solution for those doesn't exist yet since those mounts looked like the 05+?

For the top tier, I'm assuming that once we send you our stock mounts it only comes out to $400 +SH, yes? 500 initially then we send you our front and get a $100 refund?



It clearly sounded like it WAS hopping. >_>

The other thing that the poly bushings did was make shifting a lot firmer because the transmission didn't move when you engage the clutch. Going back to stock bushings (even in a rotated transmission) means it will be sloppy shifting again, yes?

Lastly, are you actually making the front mounts from scratch or just machining the stock ones? The price sounds high if the latter is the case ($400 for some machining, a small spacer and stock bushings?). Some may say "well what about the R&D costs?" - John said they were developed inside a week. I can't imagine he spent THAT much in a week unless he went on a bender of coke and hookers, besides, if the product really works, it'll sell in volume, so you can afford to reduce your profit margin. Having another new, even more expensive product in a long line of products 'that are guaranteed to stop hop' smells funny when you could clearly hear the wheels hopping in that video.

The reaction to this seems like the generic bandwagon mentality I've seen with every other hop reduction product. When I was stock I looked into the torque dampeners and traction bars, and everyone I asked said 'Oh these are awesome and stop hop, use them!' but it didn't stop it. Then I looked into poly bushings and a solid motor mount and everyone I asked about those said 'Oh these are awesome and stop hop more than dampers, use them instead!' except they didn't, and now everyone in this thread is running around shouting 'Oh those were crap and don't work, but these do, honest!' and while John knows more about these transmissions than most anyone else, it sounds really sketchy. I'd love to drive a car with these installed to see the difference, but I'm not about to drop $400 and find out they also don't work, just like every other product that "solves wheel hop."

Just my opinion. Good luck with it.

So your poly bushings did not even reduce wheel hop? I did the DIY poly bushings and I would say it solved it 80% on dry pavement and 15% on wet. It made a HUGE difference from stock. The big seller for me on this product is the reduction of cabin vibes. I have noticed many of my interior panels rattling & squeaking much more since I installed the poly mounts. I would love to kill 2 birds with one stone, but do agree with others that it seems a little overpriced. I think I'd be more willing if it was like $100-150 per mount, and the turnaround time better be damn fast if there is a core charge. Not sure I can just have my car out of commission for a week or so?

Yes they are brand new control arm bushings and they are very durable. Also as you stated they are easy to get and replace. The lnf mount is just a little firmer then the lsj, it helps transfer power on the high HP cars. The upper trans mount is very lose and has no problem twisting anywhere, the upper engine mount also has room to move but not as much as the upper trans. You will not want to run a poly upper with this setup, it's simply not needed. The driveline angle is now straight with these mounts, the only movement you will see it that the engine is slightly closer to the firewall.

Am I missing something or are these NOT "control arm bushings"? They don't have anything to do with the control arms do they? I think it's just a matter of terminology, but it's a bit confusing.

I already have all of the solid mounts in my DD (mounts soon for sale). I will be pulling these out and installing the rotated mounts once I received them. Right now I get zero wheel hop, so why am I changing them?
I want the added security for when I am at the track next year. I want to minimise the possibility of damage to my axles and transmission. The cost of these mounts vs the cost of a new transaxle makes this a no brainer to me.
Then again, what do I know?

just saw this thread, and this is the best explanation of why everyone should get these mounts. It really is a no brainer. You want added security of not breaking things, then get these mounts.

Just saw this myself. I bitched about not being able to purchase rotated mounts in the past.

This takes care of several problems, namely torsional windup of the axles as well as the parasitic loss attributed to the drivetrain.

this is probly a noob question and most likely already covered but i'm to lazy to read..how hard is the intsall..the same as the poly mounts?i've installed a few sets of those

this is probly a noob question and most likely already covered but i'm to lazy to read..how hard is the intsall..the same as the poly mounts?i've installed a few sets of those

These are easier as all you have to do is bolt in the mounts, the bushings are already in the aluminum brackets. I'll have a how to up in a little

saved

i know some others asked but i didnt see an answer posted will these work with an existing turbo tech upper mount?

if so im very interested in this mod it could save me alot of hassle next year, good job on developing products that come to market ready to go rather than asking us to finance the project unlike certain other companies

Out of curiosity, how much would it cost for the stage 2 mounts shipped to b0s1p0, Middleton, Nova Scotia. With the exchange and everything.

subscribed......I need alittle more proof to justify the price on these. That video showed me nothing except that there is still WHEEL HOP! Last I checked....wheel hop still equals broken axles on these cars.

Hmmm... I agree with those who say the price seems too steep. But, would be nice to see if there really will be a benefit or not. And also as stated, you will lose other benefits if you remove poly mounts/traction bars/etc when you do this.

If your interior is rattling, that can be fixed. Where are all you 'you have to pay to play' guys with that one?

If anything, stick with all the other traction mods, AND get this mod, if you think it will help as well.

click...

I'll be down for these when the GB comes out.

Been waiting for this!

Hmmm... I agree with those who say the price seems too steep. But, would be nice to see if there really will be a benefit or not. And also as stated, you will lose other benefits if you remove poly mounts/traction bars/etc when you do this.

If your interior is rattling, that can be fixed. Where are all you 'you have to pay to play' guys with that one?

If anything, stick with all the other traction mods, AND get this mod, if you think it will help as well.

I kind of like the vibrating. Feels more connected and cough:::you have to pay to play:::cough..lol

I have poly trans mounts and ttr upper mount. i get no wheel hop on the street, but still get bad wheel hop on the track.

So does stg 3 include both 1&2?

Would it be advisable to remove the ingalls torque dampener with these mounts installed or is it better to leave it in place?

i know some others asked but i didnt see an answer posted will these work with an existing turbo tech upper mount?

It's been asked - you need to go back to a stock top mount. The TTR one doesn't allow the movement that having a rotated engine will cause. Same with Ingalls.

So your poly bushings did not even reduce wheel hop? I did the DIY poly bushings and I would say it solved it 80% on dry pavement and 15% on wet. It made a HUGE difference from stock. The big seller for me on this product is the reduction of cabin vibes. I have noticed many of my interior panels rattling & squeaking much more since I installed the poly mounts. I would love to kill 2 birds with one stone, but do agree with others that it seems a little overpriced. I think I'd be more willing if it was like $100-150 per mount, and the turnaround time better be damn fast if there is a core charge. Not sure I can just have my car out of commission for a week or so?

It helped a bit more than the torque dampers, but it still didn't stop it completely. I can still hop on command if I want to. I have a feeling that even with this installed I could as well.

subscribed......I need alittle more proof to justify the price on these. That video showed me nothing except that there is still WHEEL HOP! Last I checked....wheel hop still equals broken axles on these cars.

Yep. Considering it uses stock trans mounts, I'd be willing to bet a large part of the hop reduction in that video was from losing power delivery to the ground (since the transmission will move around without the polys).

I kind of like the vibrating. Feels more connected and cough:::you have to pay to play:::cough..lol

I have poly trans mounts and ttr upper mount. i get no wheel hop on the street, but still get bad wheel hop on the track.

Pay to play.....I've got no problem with that....but I read it elimanated wheel hop...then watched the video.....its obvious that it did not eliminate all the wheel hop. I need to see all little more proof and testimony from other members to justify its price.

That car in the video still hopped....



not impressed. That was also on the street... at the track that car would have broke.

That car in the video still hopped....



not impressed. That was also on the street... at the track that car would have broke.

Thats what I'm saying...and I assuming that was the stage 3 setup....soooo $400+200 in core charges upfront for something that is still gonna give me wheel hop which still=axle death.....:thumbsdow If more proof comes.....with a slightly lower price...done deal...otherwise I'd stick with polys and deal with the vibes.....I'm not trying to diss OTT because they make great products....but I think this a good step in the direction of fixing this issue.

I would be really curious to see what would happen with poly mounts inside the rotated brackets. Best of both worlds.

did i miss a post, wheres the video?

That car in the video still hopped....



not impressed. That was also on the street... at the track that car would have broke.

not all cars that wheel hop break.

mine is proof of it.

Click...

not all cars that wheel hop break.

mine is proof of it.

I see what ur sayin, but i think his point was that this part is CLAIMED to ELIMINATE wheel hop, yet the vehicle equipped with said part still had wheel hop.

I see what ur sayin, but i think his point was that this part is CLAIMED to ELIMINATE wheel hop, yet the vehicle equipped with said part still had wheel hop.

The vehicle didn't have wheel hop, that was the tires slipping and trying to find traction due to 36psi being in them with a 4k clutch dump.

:lol: where is this video?
<<----- Dumb Ass.

if you guys watch the video without sound and just watch the wheel you can see its not hopping.

:lol: where is this video?
<<----- Dumb Ass.

Don't feel so bad mang, I don't see it either. Anyone care to help us out?

Sure! The link is in post #9.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/wheel-hop-reduction_199247.htm

if you guys watch the video without sound and just watch the wheel you can see its not hopping.

Do you have a video of someone getting wheel hop to compare? I'm not trying to be a dick, I've never seen a video for comparison and don't think it would be visibly obvious.

Doesn't look like wheel hop to me.

Thanks sput...

it can be quite obvious if its severe wheel hop. here is an example http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOVtnAZYBgM&feature=related yes its a rwd, its about the only vid i can find

it can be quite obvious if its severe wheel hop. here is an example http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOVtnAZYBgM&feature=related yes its a rwd, its about the only vid i can find

lol the hatch is bouncing on that lol thats REALLY bad lol hell i dont think it was that bad before i had tranny mounts lol

The vehicle didn't have wheel hop, that was the tires slipping and trying to find traction due to 36psi being in them with a 4k clutch dump.

Isnt that one way to explain how wheel hop begins? Losing traction then catching traction....not to be a dick...but why would you ever have your front tires set at 36psi and do a launch??? Will you guys get some video footage of this setup at the track??? I'd really like to see that...to really show it'll elimate most if not all wheel hop! I think that would really cast aside any doubt that this setup works and that this a great product.

I'm with Edubs here, I dont think there was much hop there. If possible, a video from inside the cabin would be good (i will never forget what it sounded like the first time I hopped!)

Isnt that one way to explain how wheel hop begins? Losing traction then catching traction....not to be a dick...but why would you ever have your front tires set at 36psi and do a launch??? Will you guys get some video footage of this setup at the track??? I'd really like to see that...to really show it'll elimate most if not all wheel hop! I think that would really cast aside any doubt that this setup works and that this a great product.

You are correct. Of course when you lesson the tires contact patch you will reduce wheel hop. The wheel hop was not severe but it was still wheel hop. Lower the tire pressure and and make another vid and let us see what it does then, I am curious.

You are correct. Of course when you lesson the tires contact patch you will reduce wheel hop. The wheel hop was not severe but it was still wheel hop. Lower the tire pressure and and make another vid and let us see what it does then, I am curious.

Yeah...the wheel hop was very very minimal.....but he said that wasnt wheel hop....maybe I'm hearing things....but sounded like it to me. But redo of that video is needed with the correct tire pressure, I never have my tires higher than 32. Like I also said, a video of this at the track would be nice....along with a cabin one too. :)

i'll hopefully have time to install mine this weekend.... you'll see some launches... don't worry about that

i'll hopefully have time to install mine this weekend.... you'll see some launches... don't worry about that
Thanks....the more the better...:) I've got no problem spending the money if they work well. But I wont spend that much money if they dont deliver what is promised. I'd also like to see a video of this setup on an ss/sc thats closer to stock form.

The vehicle didn't have wheel hop, that was the tires slipping and trying to find traction due to 36psi being in them with a 4k clutch dump.

Ok, that's kind of what I thought at first, but was just going off of what everyone else was saying. I've only experienced it from inside, never from outside the vehicle.

Thanks....the more the better...:) I've got no problem spending the money if they work well. But I wont spend that much money if they dont deliver what is promised. I'd also like to see a video of this setup on an ss/sc thats closer to stock form.

You will have to wait for customers to post up there video's as I don't have any test cars. ;)

Thanks....the more the better...:) I've got no problem spending the money if they work well. But I wont spend that much money if they dont deliver what is promised. I'd also like to see a video of this setup on an ss/sc thats closer to stock form.

don't worry about the mounts... they are properly designed and I wouldn't be putting them on my car if they didn't work.

just to give you an idea why they aren't installed in my car yet.... it's been raining. and this
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j206/black06g85/IMG_0373.jpg

those welds make baby jesus cry

yeah we were in a rush, ran out of the right wire, and well had been working on the car for about 13 hours... shit happens.

those welds make baby jesus cry

Thats what I what I was thinking:lol: But sometimes its not about looks as long as its strong, but I really can't see enough of it to even see that.

trust me shit ain't going anywhere... plus who care's not like it can be seen anyway, unless you crawl under my slammed to the ground car.

i guess as long as it holds and doesnt leak.

Paul your car is slow.

You will have to wait for customers to post up there video's as I don't have any test cars. ;)

Its all good....I hope people post them up sooner than later...I dont want to wait too long....:lol: Christmas bonus coming up.....mounts are must....so hurry up people. :)

I'll get these when the GB comes out... not going to the track until Spring anyway.

oh and THEY BETTER FUCKING WORK!

Paul your car is slow.

yeah it is, when it's parked lol

yeah it is, when it's parked lol

And when you can't get traction in any gear but 5th :cool:

don't worry about the mounts... they are properly designed and I wouldn't be putting them on my car if they didn't work.

just to give you an idea why they aren't installed in my car yet.... it's been raining. and this
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j206/black06g85/IMG_0373.jpg

is that the equal lentgh mani

for those wanting more info to back these before purchasing, i'd recommend looking at pg 66 of the build book, figure 173.

That page of the book and the diagram only show SOLID mounts made by Roush Industries for the "Cobalt Phase 5" car...

It discusses nothing of using a modified stock mount..

It DOES however state that tilting the engine forward will help better align the axles on a LOWERED vehicle...

http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/2/2/1/8/5/solid_mounts.jpg

is that the equal lentgh mani

that it is man....

that it is man....

can u notice the diffrence

It DOES however state that tilting the engine forward will help better align the axles on a LOWERED vehicle...

http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/2/2/1/8/5/solid_mounts.jpg

exactly my point, the mounts sold by ott, do exactly that without all the vibes of a solid mount............

...Except they're bolting the engine to the frame, so they're effectively doing both, like I said...

The key thing is - both products have pros and cons.
Using the tilt kit aligns the axles but costs quite a bit more and leaves the driver with a sloppy shift.
Poly mounts will vibrate the cabin and don't solve the axle tilt but keep the engine/transmission from shuddering as much, resulting in a cleaner shift and less engine movement.

GM did both - by bolting the engine and transmission to the frame they tilt the engine forward and also keep the engine/transmission rock steady.

There will be hop with both products as neither of these products solves all the causes on its own. For maximum performance you would need the tilt kit WITH poly transmission mounts, and then you'll need to solve the issue of your engine still rocking since the weak ass stock motor mount does nothing to impede it, and people have stated it will not work with TTR's top mount. You can tilt the engine all you want but with the stock mounts in there it will rock back!

I would love to test this theory - I am interested in buying just the modified 04 front mount and spacer with no bushing. (I couldn't even tell - do I need a new rear mount with the spacer or not?) PM me with the price you can do me for on that.

...Except they're bolting the engine to the frame, so they're effectively doing both, like I said...

The key thing is - both products have pros and cons.
Using the tilt kit aligns the axles but costs quite a bit more and leaves the driver with a sloppy shift.
Poly mounts will vibrate the cabin and don't solve the axle tilt but keep the engine/transmission from shuddering as much, resulting in a cleaner shift and less engine movement.

GM did both - by bolting the engine and transmission to the frame they tilt the engine forward and also keep the engine/transmission rock steady.

There will be hop with both products as neither of these products solves all the causes on its own. For maximum performance you would need the tilt kit WITH poly transmission mounts, and then you'll need to solve the issue of your engine still rocking since the weak ass stock motor mount does nothing to impede it, and people have stated it will not work with TTR's top mount. You can tilt the engine all you want but with the stock mounts in there it will rock back!

I would love to test this theory - I am interested in buying just the modified 04 front mount and spacer with no bushing. (I couldn't even tell - do I need a new rear mount with the spacer or not?) PM me with the price you can do me for on that.

The stage 3 limits movement alot, thats why theres some vibes with it. The first stage also cuts down on the engines movement, alot more then you would think. You will always need the spacer under the rear mount and for now this will only be sold as a kit with the bushing installed. I will list them on the site when they are available, about 2 weeks.

The stage 3 limits movement alot, thats why theres some vibes with it. The first stage also cuts down on the engines movement, alot more then you would think. You will always need the spacer under the rear mount and for now this will only be sold as a kit with the bushing installed. I will list them on the site when they are available, about 2 weeks.

Well if you ever offer this with just the bushings and spacer, I will be interested.

Also no one answered my question from above: is the stg3 just both mounts together? If that is the case you said the TC owners would only need the stg 1 correct?

The stage 3 limits movement alot, thats why theres some vibes with it. The first stage also cuts down on the engines movement, alot more then you would think. You will always need the spacer under the rear mount and for now this will only be sold as a kit with the bushing installed. I will list them on the site when they are available, about 2 weeks.

So is it true that the shifts get sloppier with stage 1?

So is it true that the shifts get sloppier with stage 1?

only if you consider stock sloppy...:) but I would assume there would still be an improvement over the stock mounts vs stage 1.

Well, stock is sloppy. If it's worse, than thats just shit.

The stage 3 limits movement alot, thats why theres some vibes with it. The first stage also cuts down on the engines movement, alot more then you would think. You will always need the spacer under the rear mount and for now this will only be sold as a kit with the bushing installed. I will list them on the site when they are available, about 2 weeks.

I'm thinking about getting the stage 2 kit...for right now...I dont really need the stage 3 yet, but would like to upgrade when I have that kind of power in the future. But I was curious...will you ever offer an upgrade from stage 2 to 3??? Kinda like stage 1 price but opposite mount...if that makes sense...:) Just curious.....if not...I guess stage 3 will be my only choice.

Well, stock is sloppy. If it's worse, than thats just shit.

The funny thing is my shifts dont feel that sloppy...but I would assume they would stay the same or improve slightly....just not anywhere near as crisp that polys would give you.

...Except they're bolting the engine to the frame, so they're effectively doing both, like I said...

The key thing is - both products have pros and cons.
Using the tilt kit aligns the axles but costs quite a bit more and leaves the driver with a sloppy shift.
Poly mounts will vibrate the cabin and don't solve the axle tilt but keep the engine/transmission from shuddering as much, resulting in a cleaner shift and less engine movement.

GM did both - by bolting the engine and transmission to the frame they tilt the engine forward and also keep the engine/transmission rock steady.

There will be hop with both products as neither of these products solves all the causes on its own. For maximum performance you would need the tilt kit WITH poly transmission mounts, and then you'll need to solve the issue of your engine still rocking since the weak ass stock motor mount does nothing to impede it, and people have stated it will not work with TTR's top mount. You can tilt the engine all you want but with the stock mounts in there it will rock back!

I would love to test this theory - I am interested in buying just the modified 04 front mount and spacer with no bushing. (I couldn't even tell - do I need a new rear mount with the spacer or not?) PM me with the price you can do me for on that.
yes it's true roush did bolt it straight to the frame without and sort of softening compound, i don't think i could live with a DD like that myself.

i have the stage 3 kit installed, and my shifts aren't sloppy to say the least. the stage 3 limits the movement considerably. but at the same time i don't have half the vibes i did with the poli mounts. another thing about the poli mounts is after a while the bushing in the center becomes loose and this will later lead to the motor and tranny moving side to side a bit, i had this problem myself. when i took off the poli mounts the spacer was even loose, and the tranny mounts were resting against the section they bolt to. this will in time lead to a lot of grinding noises on accel and decel. and i can't even imagine the possible damage it did to the hub bearings and seals.

yes it's true roush did bolt it straight to the frame without and sort of softening compound, i don't think i could live with a DD like that myself.

i have the stage 3 kit installed, and my shifts aren't sloppy to say the least. the stage 3 limits the movement considerably. but at the same time i don't have half the vibes i did with the poli mounts. another thing about the poli mounts is after a while the bushing in the center becomes loose and this will later lead to the motor and tranny moving side to side a bit, i had this problem myself. when i took off the poli mounts the spacer was even loose, and the tranny mounts were resting against the section they bolt to. this will in time lead to a lot of grinding noises on accel and decel. and i can't even imagine the possible damage it did to the hub bearings and seals.

Any form of limitation will cause vibs, so either you have vibs or you have slop... Dont fool yourself.

Any form of limitation will cause vibs, so either you have vibs or you have slop... Dont fool yourself.

go back and reread what i wrote, more specifically the line i wrote just after the text of mine you made red.

go back and reread what i wrote, more specifically the line i wrote just after the text of mine you made red.

So you are getting vibs? So there is no benifit then? Seems like there are no advantages, higher price and vibs???? Harsh or not, vibs are vibs...

So you are getting vibs? So there is no benifit then? Seems like there are no advantages, higher price and vibs???? Harsh or not, vibs are vibs...

You are taking things out of context and leaving other things out. Everything is not black and white. Get your head on straight because it's pointless to argue w/ someone who doesn't know any better.

1) There are vibes > 2) The vibes are not as great as poly mounts > 3) More effective at preventing wheel hop and less harsh

Simple logic. Connect the dots, if you will...

You are taking things out of context and leaving other things out. Everything is not black and white. Get your head on straight because it's pointless to argue w/ someone who doesn't know any better.

1) There are vibes > 2) The vibes are not as great as poly mounts > 3) More effective at preventing wheel hop and less harsh

Simple logic. Connect the dots, if you will...

thanks man:twothumbs

ill take a lil vibes over broken expensive drivetrain parts any day

You are taking things out of context and leaving other things out. Everything is not black and white. Get your head on straight because it's pointless to argue w/ someone who doesn't know any better.

1) There are vibes > 2) The vibes are not as great as poly mounts > 3) More effective at preventing wheel hop and less harsh

Simple logic. Connect the dots, if you will...

Got it thanks!

So by paying 8 times as much as poly ($50 for prothane I saw), you get about half the vibs...


I am not sure if I care that much about a few vibs for 8 times the price.

Got it thanks!

So by paying 8 times as much as poly ($50 for prothane I saw), you get about half the vibs...


I am not sure if I care that much about a few vibs for 8 times the price.

Wow, your ignorance knows no bounds.

Once again, to try and win an e-argument, you left out important facts to "sound" right. Don't quit your day job bud...

Got it thanks!

So by paying 8 times as much as poly ($50 for prothane I saw), you get about half the vibs...


I am not sure if I care that much about a few vibs for 8 times the price.

you are missing the whole point of these mounts, it's to reduce wheelhop, less vibes is just an added bonus.

Got it thanks!

So by paying 8 times as much as poly ($50 for prothane I saw), you get about half the vibs...


I am not sure if I care that much about a few vibs for 8 times the price.

These mounts have been explained to you many times in this thread. Please stop taking things out of context and twisting peoples words. If you like your poly mounts thats fine, but you've said enough about them in this thread. :)

These mounts have been explained to you many times in this thread. Please stop taking things out of context and twisting peoples words. If you like your poly mounts thats fine, but you've said enough about them in this thread. :)

PWNED!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yteC21IkycY

These mounts have been explained to you many times in this thread. Please stop taking things out of context and twisting peoples words. If you like your poly mounts thats fine, but you've said enough about them in this thread. :)

Why do you sell the Poly ones if you are so against them? If you dont think they work, why do you offer them?

Why do you sell the Poly ones if you are so against them? If you dont think they work, why do you offer them?

mann reading>> you .. they never said poly mounts done work.. they just said they're not the best way to do it .. and they started offering them before they started selling the new mounts

Got it thanks!

So by paying 8 times as much as poly ($50 for prothane I saw), you get about half the vibs...


I am not sure if I care that much about a few vibs for 8 times the price.

mmmmmkay.

your dumb.

please go the lounge and the kills section from now on.

lolz... gotta love the people that have no clue, but still feel necessary to voice their opinion on the matter....
just gotta ignore them these days.

Why do you sell the Poly ones if you are so against them? If you dont think they work, why do you offer them?

This is the last time I will ask you nicely. If you have a question about our rotated mounts thats fine, but if you post up one more question about poly vs. ours I will have your posts removed. The poly vs. rotated has already been covered.

yea!

kick his ass sea bass!

Samsonite...

I was way off! I knew it started with an S, though.

sammy, slappy, salamander......

can i has a set?

meee tooo

mine are coming in the mail! as soon as i get them i will get a vid!

damnit someone lend me a heated garage so I can do the damn install.... 20 degrees is too cold to be on my back in the driveway.... I'm getting old lol.

damnit someone lend me a heated garage so I can do the damn install.... 20 degrees is too cold to be on my back in the driveway.... I'm getting old lol.

come use mine. oh and do a turbo swap for me:lol:

want to send a set to a deployed soldier? haha, jk.

i need a set of these buggers.

yes it's true roush did bolt it straight to the frame without and sort of softening compound, i don't think i could live with a DD like that myself.

i have the stage 3 kit installed, and my shifts aren't sloppy to say the least. the stage 3 limits the movement considerably. but at the same time i don't have half the vibes i did with the poli mounts. another thing about the poli mounts is after a while the bushing in the center becomes loose and this will later lead to the motor and tranny moving side to side a bit, i had this problem myself. when i took off the poli mounts the spacer was even loose, and the tranny mounts were resting against the section they bolt to. this will in time lead to a lot of grinding noises on accel and decel. and i can't even imagine the possible damage it did to the hub bearings and seals.

Obviously I'm not suggesting bolting the engine to the frame. That would be horrible as a DD. :lol:

I misstated what I meant, so I'll explain. The shifting itself isn't sloppy, the clutch engagement is. For comparison, when I was stock, and put the car into 2nd and 3rd gear, when I would let off the clutch and get on the gas, the car would kind of bog down at first before going. I actually thought it was a bad clutch at first, but when I put transmission poly mounts on, this problem went away completely. As far as I can figure, the transmission would rock a bit during engagement and not deliver power properly. Even tilted, going back to stock style trans mounts should reintroduce that clutch engagement slop.

Did you post that anywhere or take any pics? You're the first person I've ever heard of having problems like that, and I'm surprised you didn't post a thread about it anywhere if those things fail that badly.

20 degrees is too cold to be on my back in the driveway....

That's what she said!

Obviously I'm not suggesting bolting the engine to the frame. That would be horrible as a DD. :lol:

I misstated what I meant, so I'll explain. The shifting itself isn't sloppy, the clutch engagement is. For comparison, when I was stock, and put the car into 2nd and 3rd gear, when I would let off the clutch and get on the gas, the car would kind of bog down at first before going. I actually thought it was a bad clutch at first, but when I put transmission poly mounts on, this problem went away completely. As far as I can figure, the transmission would rock a bit during engagement and not deliver power properly. Even tilted, going back to stock style trans mounts should reintroduce that clutch engagement slop.

Did you post that anywhere or take any pics? You're the first person I've ever heard of having problems like that, and I'm surprised you didn't post a thread about it anywhere if those things fail that badly.



That's what she said!
if my wife hasen't allready sent the cores back, i'll try and get her to take pics of the center bushing and how loose it is. i thought i just had another bad transmission so i never posted. now that the noise has gone away and i got underneath the car to swap mounts i know what caused it.

Okay - I think I want these...

1st time ever taking my car to the track - broke an axle. Been through several more axles since, and though they weren't victims of wheel hop per se, I can't imagine that the retarded factory axle angle on the CV's is HELPING anything, lol.

What's the cost including core, if those aren't complete charges? I cannot afford downtime in my DD.

The question regarding lowered cars was never answered. Any thought of offering an adjustable spacer to increase/decrease the tilt for lowered cars?

And will you look into offering a poly version? Wheelhop issues aside, the difference in shifting betwen my car and on with poly's was far moer drastic than it was with stock mounts vs poly in my SC2 - and it was huge in the SC2, lol. I wantz my shifts back!

I just want these to show up on the website once everything is done. Just like the manifold.

mince are finally going in next saturday... friends shop has been booked.

I know you can't wait. I'll be expecting to hear from you once this is done.

oh you definitely will. Vids shall be posted lol

videos are good....

mince are finally going in next saturday... friends shop has been booked.

wtf is bill doing now lol

he had to paint a few cars this weekend last I heard...

he had to paint a few cars this weekend last I heard...

Where are all these promised videos?

Also.. I can't find these on the website yet. Still not available?

I'm sending my stock mounts out this weekend hopefully...

Sunday I finally will have a chance to get them in. There will be vids up monday.

weak.

VIDS NAOW!

I'm still collecting cores before these come out. Just a few more weeks max.

I have my mounts installed. Too bad the car doesn't run well enough to make a report on how they work. :rolleyes:

josh, out of curiosity, when installed, how much space is there from the exhaust ports to the firewall as compared to the stock mounts?

My mounts are coming out tonight and we're pressing out the poly bushings. Hopefully they'll be in the mail tomorrow on their way to you Josh!

my rotated mounts have been in for a week, but barely drove on them. timing chain tensioner let go so i put her away

i need updates...

ok just got back from putting mine in and fixing those 3 missing studs on the turbo mani.

definite difference in the car., much smoother now, so far shifting has been fine. Can't really do much though since all it does is spin.
Will tell you one thing, with the old mount setup (poly inserts) the car wheel hopped something fierce last night. Did same thing tonight, no wheel hop. I'll get a vid tomorrow of a launch

Very nice to hear.

So, if stage one invovles an LNF rear mount, can you just sell the 'shim'

:lol:

I have two sets of LNF mounts. One set on the car, and one off.


Vibrateless driving?

Sign me up.

ok just got back from putting mine in and fixing those 3 missing studs on the turbo mani.

definite difference in the car., much smoother now, so far shifting has been fine. Can't really do much though since all it does is spin.
Will tell you one thing, with the old mount setup (poly inserts) the car wheel hopped something fierce last night. Did same thing tonight, no wheel hop. I'll get a vid tomorrow of a launch

i agree with this completely.

Before these mounts (when i had full solid mounts) if i hit it in the middle of first (already rolling) i would hop, now i can hit it in the middle of first and just spin.

everything felt so much smoother with these mounts, and i love the fact that the vibrations are completely unnoticeable to me

hmm fast you guys planning on these for the 2.4 or anything maybe?

it seems like these would be good for me to have when i'm boosted

I know for sure that I am going to need these. Besides the one video that was posted by the guy who's in Germany, I haven't had the chance to see anything else besides that. Reputable people post so I believe in the product.

I'll get some vids up later this afternoon once it dries up over here. I haven't installed all my video software yet on the new computer, I got some work to do today

Are these going to be sold on a regular basis?

Are these going to be sold on a regular basis?

Yes they are, it's just hard finding enough cores for everyone. :)

Yes they are, it's just hard finding enough cores for everyone. :)

I understand. I am interested but I have bought enough crap for my car lately :lol:

Yes they are, it's just hard finding enough cores for everyone. :)

I"ll be sending my other mounts back, who do I send em to, you or john?

Yes they are, it's just hard finding enough cores for everyone. :)

I have an extra set of LNF mounts sitting at my house.

One has a poly insert in it(rear)

Can you sell the shim and the insert rather than the whole mount?

Or could I send and wait for them and not be charged teh lose core charge?

Paul, why don't you just send yours in for me?

I have an extra set of LNF mounts sitting at my house.

One has a poly insert in it(rear)

Can you sell the shim and the insert rather than the whole mount?

Or could I send and wait for them and not be charged teh lose core charge?

The shim and insert won't be sold seperately, the insert needs to be precisely clocked in the mount. If you have an extra set you can send them in to be modified and I will send your mounts back to you once completed.

video uploading now. Just a short launch, but got no one to hold the cam for me so this is all you guys get for now lol.
4k clutch drop, no hop what so-ever

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/testing-out-the-new_205795.htm

The shim and insert won't be sold seperately, the insert needs to be precisely clocked in the mount. If you have an extra set you can send them in to be modified and I will send your mounts back to you once completed.

If I send you my stock mounts what is the turn around time?

i would like to know also

We are doing them in batches to get the price down. These are cnc machined. The next batch will prob be just after the first of the year. So if you send them in for then they should be about a weeks time.

video uploading now. Just a short launch, but got no one to hold the cam for me so this is all you guys get for now lol.
4k clutch drop, no hop what so-ever

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/testing-out-the-new_205795.htm

that's enough proof for me. Now I just need another set of mounts to send in. I hate being deployed like this.

if they didn't need mine back I could shoot mine in for a core for you

So any update on what the final price would be if I wanted stage 2. Total price with core and everything, and shipping to b0s1p0 canada.

So any update on what the final price would be if I wanted stage 2. Total price with core and everything, and shipping to b0s1p0 canada.

Everything is on the first page besides shipping. Shipping would be about $25 for you and they would ship from our partner in canada so there would be no fees for you.

does that mean that i also wouldnt have to pay the exchange on canadian money

does that mean that i also wouldnt have to pay the exchange on canadian money

I'm afraid not :cussing:

I have an extra set of LNF mounts sitting at my house.

One has a poly insert in it(rear)

Can you sell the shim and the insert rather than the whole mount?

Or could I send and wait for them and not be charged teh lose core charge?

They can't, then they couldn't charge so much.

They can't, then they couldn't charge so much.

Actually it's because the insert is pressed into the mount then the mount gets put into a 3 axis cnc and the hole is cut for the bushing, then we press the bushing in. So unless you guys own a cnc machine you won't be getting the job done! ;)

Actually it's because the insert is pressed into the mount then the mount gets put into a 3 axis cnc and the hole is cut for the bushing, then we press the bushing in. So unless you guys own a cnc machine you won't be getting the job done! ;)

what if we just send your our mounts???

Actually it's because the insert is pressed into the mount then the mount gets put into a 3 axis cnc and the hole is cut for the bushing, then we press the bushing in. So unless you guys own a cnc machine you won't be getting the job done! ;)

What is machined on the stock mount its self? If its just the bushing that is drilled you could pre-drill the bushing and then send it out with a template with the proper position it needs to be pressed in like I have stated in this thread before. I hate to sound like a broken record and I am sure you guys are tired of hearing it but all that shipping driving the price up.

What is machined on the stock mount its self? If its just the bushing that is drilled you could pre-drill the bushing and then send it out with a template with the proper position it needs to be pressed in like I have stated in this thread before. I hate to sound like a broken record and I am sure you guys are tired of hearing it but all that shipping driving the price up.

You're not understanding. We take the metal mounting bracket from the stock mount and press in a solid piece of plastic. We then take that to a machine shop where they put it on there cnc mill and they cut the holes for the bushings in the right spot. Then we press in the rubber bushings and ship them out.

If you send in your cores first you won't have to pay a core charge.

I guess I don't understand. Like the product, believe in the idea, can't believe the price. Anyway Im done junking up your thread.

whiners.

i just wish i wasn't deployed, i'd have my stockers off in a heartbeat.

hey man, how long till you get back? I'm due back in May as of now.

i get back in march/april. not 100% sure yet. the sad part is, i got here in January.... uggh...

I'll be going back to California for leave for 30+ days, then putting all my parts in my trunk and driving, or shipping the balt to Fort Bragg NC, where i'll install all of my parts and get it tuned while i'm at it.

How long are you stuck in the Gulf?

Hopefully we can get to leave around March sometime, but it's not in stone yet..., you know how that is. I am stationed in Virginia though, and we are setting up something in the state with all of us from around virginia. If you can get the time you should come up so we can share stories over beer or something. lol

Sure thing. I have a friend from Virginia, and its not to bad of a drive. We'll have to set up a Northern East Coast Meet, because all of those states are only like 2 or 3 hours from each other.

sounds good to me.

Hi, Did the how to get posted for the install for these? Also the may be redundant noobish but the mount is offset on the front mlunt only? The back mount is not offset and uses just the control arm bushing to stiffen it up? And this rotates the engine on the bottom a half inch closer to the firewall? I am kinda impressed that it only takes that little bit of rotation to line up the driveline better. It sounds like you did a lot of research in this. I am considering these just want to understand it better. Also 350 is better than the 1000-1500 wheel hop kit gm just came out with so kudo's to u guys!

haha, yeah. Its so simple....

Powell Motorsports FTMFW!

You're not understanding. We take the metal mounting bracket from the stock mount and press in a solid piece of plastic. We then take that to a machine shop where they put it on there cnc mill and they cut the holes for the bushings in the right spot. Then we press in the rubber bushings and ship them out.

If you send in your cores first you won't have to pay a core charge.

The core charge is refunded once the stock mounts are received correct? If so, I don't see the problem.

The core charge is refunded once the stock mounts are received correct? If so, I don't see the problem.

Correct.

I will seriously consider this if someone would make a good how to on this.

I will seriously consider this if someone would make a good how to on this.

These are easier to install then poly mounts. They just bolt in, first jack up your car and support it with stands. Then you want to support the engine and trans with a jack with a block of wood between then engine and jack so you don't crack the pan. Then remove the through bolts for the mounts, and the mounting bolts for the mounts. There are 3 mounting bolts for the back mount and 2 for the front. Install is the opposite.

I just shot you an email over the website email addy. I am trying to arrange for my mounts and manifold to be sent to you.

These are easier to install then poly mounts. They just bolt in, first jack up your car and support it with stands. Then you want to support the engine and trans with a jack with a block of wood between then engine and jack so you don't crack the pan. Then remove the through bolts for the mounts, and the mounting bolts for the mounts. There are 3 mounting bolts for the back mount and 2 for the front. Install is the opposite.

Doesnt seem that hard. I'm a visual person though. Could you (ottp) make a how to on a customers car or something?

Doesnt seem that hard. I'm a visual person though. Could you (ottp) make a how to on a customers car or something?

Not anytime soon. These mounts are in high demand maybe one of our customers will oblige us on this.

What no answers to my question? :( :lol:

Hi, Did the how to get posted for the install for these? Also the may be redundant noobish but the mount is offset on the front mlunt only? The back mount is not offset and uses just the control arm bushing to stiffen it up? And this rotates the engine on the bottom a half inch closer to the firewall? I am kinda impressed that it only takes that little bit of rotation to line up the driveline better. It sounds like you did a lot of research in this. I am considering these just want to understand it better. Also 350 is better than the 1000-1500 wheel hop kit gm just came out with so kudo's to u guys!

stage 1 is just the front mount rotated, stage 3 has both rotated mounts. Both designs use the spacer on the rear mount. Hope this helps

so this is only for the 2.0 right?

Yes 2.0l only. For now at least.

How to? Just find a how to on the poly mounts. Same unbolting and bolting procedure, just don't have to mess with the pressing out the mount and pressing the new one in since they come assembled. It literally take maybe 15-20 minutes tops, and that's including putting the car on jack stands.

paul r u still on stock axels?

nah man those commited suicide a long long time ago lol.
been on the original DSS stage II axles (test set off rob's (fast06ss) car)

This may have been asked but are these mounts avalible for the 04 Redline?

not sure. i wonder if john has a set for his redline?

not sure. i wonder if john has a set for his redline?

I am almost 100% sure he does. I just wanted to make sure because some other peps from RLFs were asking about it.

not sure. i wonder if john has a set for his redline?

yes john does have a set on his redline.

hmm so since these aren't on the website yet i'm going to assume the pricing is still the same as the front page. $400 for the stage III setup??

I can't believe no one bothered to listen to a thing I said. Ugh.

After John himself, *I* was the first person to have these mounts installed. MY CAR IS AN '04 RED LINE!

I don't think they heard you ... lol

I can't believe no one bothered to listen to a thing I said. Ugh.

After John himself, *I* was the first person to have these mounts installed. MY CAR IS AN '04 RED LINE!

Lol.

Ok guys these are up on the site. I have 5 complete sets that will be in on friday. After that there will be a little delay as that is all the cores we have for now. Next batch will be early january and I will have 10 sets at least.

http://www.ottperformance.com/Cobalt/Ion-Drivetrain/c2_40/p289/OTT-Rotated-Trans-Mounts/product_info.html

These will be first come first serve. If more then 5 people buy you will be put at the top of the list for the next round.

And we CAN buy a set without sending cores up front if we pay the core charge which will be refunded when cores are recieved, right? My RL is my primary form of transportation and I CANNOT go even 2 days without it, so no way I can send the mounts and then wait for the new ones. May seem like a dumb question, but I see a lot of talk about sending mounts and waiting... :(

I'm pretty sure your situation is the whole reason core charges exist...

:lol:

Josh will have to confirm, but he said he'll have the mounts in, which leads me to believe they can be ordered w/ or w/o the core charge...

it's easy, find some mounts on e-bay or a junkyard. best of both worlds!