Well no bragging but i have like around 11k to i guess mess around w. and i wanted to start getting some aftermarket performance parts for my car. I just wanted to get some ideas and opinions from all of you. I would really like to get my car into the 300 Bhp range 320 is my real goal. If thats even possable? But anyway ide like to get some input on how to get that or close to that. Simple do it ur self mods and ones u might even have to have done..Ide like to stay supercharged so turboing my car really isnt an option for me.
Any Suggestions?

 

tvs

with a tvs, 60s,h/e,full exhst you can get well over 300bhp it will be more like 320+ WHP

 

rwd.

 

60's, 2.8" pulley, full-exhaust, h/e, dual pass option b, meth, nos, ported head, ported supercharger, cams, engine mount, torque damper, and one hell of a tune.

 

i dont mean to sound like a noob..but whats tvs and h/e stand for?..and what exactly do meth kits do?

 

Go Turbo! I've driven a couple 330+WHP Cobalts from work and I must say they are more then enough. Nothing like reliable power as well.

 

Stay supercharged....

If you have the money you say you do, ~350FWHP is possible.

TVS 1320 Supercharger
LS4 Throttle Body
3" Intake
60lb injectors
Progressive Meth kit
Heat Exchanger
Dual Pass w/Option B
3.1 pulley for TVS ~18psi will be your boost
3" Catback Exhaust
3' Downpipe with High Flow cat
Headers/manifold

tune tune tune

Then you could even go into doing internals and make it a beast.

 

But i really wanna stay supercharged..everyone has a turbo.
I need to keep my stock supercharger cuz i have like a 3 year warrentee on it soo..need other type mods that will bring me up to my goal.

 

TVS is the model of a Supercharger that is sold by OTTPerformance
H/E stand for heat exchanger (small cx racing is the best IMO)

 

You just gave me my shopping list..lol
How much will that run me?..and idk about the TVS buttt..ill deff put a smaller pully on my stock charger

 

The idea about swapping to the TVS supercharger is to keep the charger in an efficient running speed. Smaller pulleys push the stock charger to the limit where it generates more heat then help to your goal. Honestly, if you have the cash, find a fox body mustang for around 2k, spend 5k in a 351 set up with a powerglide tranny, have a 8.8 moser set up with a 4.30 gear and run low 7's, high 6's in the 1/8, mid 10's in the 1/4. I had less than 10k in a fox and was knocking on the door of low 10's with a 302 roller motor. RWD>FWD all week.

 

If you're gonna put a smaller pulley on the M62, best would be a 2.9 or 2.9 with 60's and a tune....

But remember, the M62 does nothing but make a lot of heat so cooling mods are a must. Also, look into a Killer Chiller that OTTPerformance sells. They're doing a group buy on them right now and the drop your IAT2's a lot....

TVS 1320 Supercharger - $2250
LS4 Throttle Body - couldn't find a price so, maybe $300?
3" Intake - RAW 3" I think is ~$300
60lb injectors w Harness - $200
Progressive Meth kit - $350
Heat Exchanger - $235
Dual Pass w/Option B - ~$350
3.1 pulley for TVS ~18psi will be your boost (comes with TVS I believe)
3" Catback Exhaust - ~$800
Vibrandt sells a header dp combo - $700

Some of those prices are probably off but that's just a rough estimate to give you a ballpark idea of how much it will be.

 

thanks i added it all up its just over 3000$ not that bad..i took off the TVS in that soo..im gonna keep my stocker for a little get the cooling mods and throw a 2.9 on like u said..
W.all that ide have an estimate of how much WHP?..Im alreadys stage 2 w.atleast 240-260

 

If you're worried about your warranty, youre stuck with GMPP. If you've got the stage 2 already, you've got the extrude honed manifold, catback, and dual pass endplate left. You won't come close to 300 whp, but your warranty will remain intact (provided the dealer installs them for you). Those mods above will void the hell out of anything even resembling a warranty.

 

Provided i stay w.GM parts like there exaust and the things uve mentiond how much whp will i be putting down?

 

There's 2 GMPP catback options: Sport and Touring. Both claim 12-13 hp over stock. Touring is supposed to be a bit more mellow, Sport more loud. But I've never heard either in person. Everything else, I'm not so sure. The extrude honed manifold, from what I hear, isn't worth the money. Only a few hp for a substantial outlay of cash. The dual pass is a cooling mod, so I'm not sure if anyone has ever dynoed to check gains.

 

I have most of the GMPP stuff (excluding the dual pass) and I put down about 245hp at the dyno... Its spirited, but I am about to blow the top off mine with cooling, headers, downpipe, and other things that I havent decided yet...

You might also look into some tires or other suspension mods, I went from the stockers to BFG KDW tires and it was a great switch for handling.

 

stage 2 alone givees u 241 ish..thats not worth it much..i actualy really want that TVS supercharger its pretty lol..but i have like a 3 year warrentee on my stock charger..damn!

 

i like a blower as much as the next guy, but if you want more hp for the buck then you need to go turbo. hahn stage 5 would be a good choice. they reason everyone is doing it is because it makes more sense when going to higher hp levels with a 4 cyl. the superchargers at a certain rotation start to generate more heat than you want and therefore less power and health to your motor.

 

first thing i would do seriously is internals. head work with pistons/sleeves. support your mods first. trust me. then you can worry about the power adders.

look at it this way... do you want your car down for 2-4 weeks for an engine build with money leftover for your mods.

or do you want your car to blow a piston?

 

Yes, BUT most people are failing to realize the importance of all the cooling mods provided and that TOGETHER they will drop your IAT2's significantly...

For example, say my IAT2's right now from a 2nd gear to top of thrid pull top out at about 145*. With meth injection, aftermarket heat exchanger, dual pass with option B, and killer chiller I could do the same 2nd to to top of 4th gear run with the same ambient temps and see my IAT2's peak at 100* and maybe even lower depending on how long the killer chiller was on. Also, I believe exhaust mods will help with IAT2's a little. I think the problem is, is people don't realize how affective these cooling mods are.

 

stage 2 alone does not give u 240whp. it gives u 40hp (at the crank). i have gm stage 2 and injen cold air intake and put down 236whp. with full exhaust and h/e and tune im gonna b around 260whp.
but u could b around 290-300 maybe more with the mods i listed u

 

I really honestly dont know what to do..lol..

 

150 wet shot and a prayer then

 

lol and kiss ur engine good bye after the first spray ahahaha