When you talk about seeing turbo cars "down" alot, what are the reason they are down? and how can these be avioded when turboing a car? I always thought that a turbo install done right and tuned right with car well taken care of would have no issues but im hearing different and i wanna make sure when the ss gets turboed that its done perfectly. :twothumbs

When a a turbo is shut off (i.e. when the engine is turned off), residual oil inside the turbo's bearings can be baked by stored engine heat. This, combined with the turbo's extremely high rpms (up to 150,000rpm) can cause problems with the turbo's internal bearings and can shorten the life of the turbocharger. In addition, many turbos require aftermarket exhaust manifolds, which are often far less reliable than stock manifolds.

well as far as a turbo car i know its always good to idle for about a minute to let the oil circulate thru the turbo to cool down so it doesnt cause warping of the parts in the turbo or for the lazy people you can buy a turbo timer. also i know that oil changes are required more frequently and grade of fuel has to be 91 up to fight detonation. there have been many debates over what kind of manifold hols the highest quality and the better performance, im still unsure but the 2 options are cast (which i believe is stronger) and tubular (which i belive is lighter and better for performance gains), ill go with whatever one the kit supplies i guess.

to over simplify it ... a turbo is more complex and has more moving parts ... thus increasing the chance for failure ...

well my main thing is, the factory can turbocharge cars stock with no problems about it, thats what im trying to achieve with installing a turbo on my car, im basically looking for some solid reason of why something on a turbo engine would go wrong and what i need to look out for other than the obvious, although i guess i should be asking these questions on a dsm forum.

may be off topic, but what does a turbo timer do?

turbo timer leaves your engine running at idle once you shut your car off. you can decide how long for it to run or you can have it decide. it decides by adding a second for every however amount of minutes your engine has been running or w/e.

yeah its really not needed if you can take an extra minute to let your car cool down, its more of a conveinance item

well my main thing is, the factory can turbocharge cars stock with no problems about it, thats what im trying to achieve with installing a turbo on my car, im basically looking for some solid reason of why something on a turbo engine would go wrong and what i need to look out for other than the obvious, although i guess i should be asking these questions on a dsm forum.

well its simply because if a turbo part of the design all the components are designed with this in mind ... by adding a turbo you add stress on the entire car that’s components were never intended/designed to take the stress of the extra power ...when a car is designed its components are put through NVH to see what kind of stress they can take how many repetitions at a given Hz and then typically over designed 25% for a safety you are changing the equation and can get away with it in some areas because of the over design ... however it makes it more susceptible to failure since it is closer to the limit

thats true, but im thinking low boost like about 7 psi should be safe if everything is done right, but it will be close to the limits i understand, but still within them. with high boost is where i guess the attention to detail comes in

to over simplify it ... a turbo is more complex and has more moving parts ... thus increasing the chance for failure ...


More moving parts than a SC?

Bahahahhahha.

There is one rotating shaft and one valve.

Ohh don't try to count them all at once...

well my main thing is, the factory can turbocharge cars stock with no problems about it, thats what im trying to achieve with installing a turbo on my car, im basically looking for some solid reason of why something on a turbo engine would go wrong and what i need to look out for other than the obvious, although i guess i should be asking these questions on a dsm forum.


Turbos can be reliable and driven discustingly hard. The 24H at LeMans has proven that for the past 30 or so years...

So what we have is poor maintence giving Turbos a bad rep at being hard to maintain...

Oil Changes.. Don't ever ever skip them.
Oil Starvation... Don't ever let the turbo run dry
Overboosting... Make sure that the turbo is rated to supply the volume and pressure you want.
Water Cooling... If a turbo has ports for water cooling, you must run them.
Oil Return Line... The Oil Return line must be above the oil level in the pan.
Oil Return Line... The Oil Return Line must be significantly larger than the supply line.

Questions... Ask me.

Turbos spin at higher rates and are under higher heat.

They makes them more prone to failure than a rootes blower.

I agree that they aren't unreliable as much as they are more maintenance intensive.

Turbos spin at higher rates and are under higher heat.

They makes them more prone to failure than a rootes blower.

I agree that they aren't unreliable as much as they are more maintenance intensive.

No offence, but that is simply the biggest load of horsehit I have heard lately.

You wouldn't suppose Garrett knows about this heat thing would you..

Perhaps they have looked into it the past 32 years that they have been building turbos and worked some on making sure that they can take the heat...

The materials that they make the turbo components are selected to withstand the "Hell" that they are subjected to daily.

Heat Cycles from ambient to as much as 1600 Deg F over and over are the normal use for a turbo, so excuse me, I have to stop you there.

Basically, the heat debate is not going to stand up as a negative for the Turbo Debate.

I have over 65,000 Km on my Protégé with EGT temps sitting at 1300 Deg F in Stop and Go and 1400 Deg F at 130 Km/H.

Regular maintenance and Good Design are all that is needed to enjoy reliable TURBOISM!

If you want more info go over to flat-6.com... The 911 Turbo boys would love this... Some of them are running 911T from the 80's with over 300,000 Miles on the odometer...

The 80's were hell and the Liquid Cooled Ball Bearing turbo didn't exist.

Sorry if the post was hostile sounding. It wasn't a personal attack at all. It was meant to be part of the discussion..

flat out...spend the extra few hundred...instead of a few THOUSAND....get it installed professionally, get manager, DEF a turbo timer...only 100 bucks...and makes your turbo run smoother n last so much longer...

to be honest the first turbotimer on a car i heard...in front of my eyes...was the srt4..i was like you goin to let that run? my friends like, turbo timer..haha...im such an idiot, but i learn!!!

TURBO=MUCH LOVE!!!

I think any highly modded car is not going to be terribly reliable. Your clutch, suspension, tires, engine internals, computer, exhaust manifolds, basically your whole car is not set up to withstand all that power and boost.

If you install a turbo, that is a big project, so your car will have downtime for that. Then, you will have downtime to tune it. Then you will have downtime when you burn up your clutch, which will happen quickly. Then, when you get massive wheel hop, you will either break a halfshaft or have more downtime while you upgrade your suspension. Then, your exhaust may leak, or something may need some tuning, so there is more downtime. Basically, all these mods lead to a downward spiral of more mods and more downtime. Happens with most sportscar when people mod them. Once you go beyond BPU mods your reliability goes way down.

I think any highly modded car is not going to be terribly reliable. Your clutch, suspension, tires, engine internals, computer, exhaust manifolds, basically your whole car is not set up to withstand all that power and boost.

If you install a turbo, that is a big project, so your car will have downtime for that. Then, you will have downtime to tune it. Then you will have downtime when you burn up your clutch, which will happen quickly. Then, when you get massive wheel hop, you will either break a halfshaft or have more downtime while you upgrade your suspension. Then, your exhaust may leak, or something may need some tuning, so there is more downtime. Basically, all these mods lead to a downward spiral of more mods and more downtime. Happens with most sportscar when people mod them. Once you go beyond BPU mods your reliability goes way down.

Unless it's planned correctly the first time with supporting mods.

The guy from modacar.com (supporting vendor) was on Redline.tv (SPEED channel) said he has driven both Turbo and SC vehicles, and he MUCH prefers the SC. Reason being, the Turbo gives more of a harsh engagement, while the SC is more smooth. The SC is MUCH better fro racing, because if a turbo kicks in, in the turns, he said it can get loose on you.

As BrianMP5T said, planning is everything. You have to make sure that your car is setup properly to handle the power you intend to give it. If you just throw a turbo kit on your car, you are going to run into problems. You have to look at all the components that are going to see this extra power and strain. Valves, valve springs, pistons, rods, crank, bearings, clutch, trans, axles, mounts, and etc.

You could also make the same arguement for a supercharger or N20. With any significant power boost you are going to have to look for the next weakest link.

The guy from modacar.com (supporting vendor) was on Redline.tv (SPEED channel) said he has driven both Turbo and SC vehicles, and he MUCH prefers the SC. Reason being, the Turbo gives more of a harsh engagement, while the SC is more smooth. The SC is MUCH better fro racing, because if a turbo kicks in, in the turns, he said it can get loose on you.


Driver Skill must be at a permium on that show...

As BrianMP5T said, planning is everything. You have to make sure that your car is setup properly to handle the power you intend to give it. If you just throw a turbo kit on your car, you are going to run into problems. You have to look at all the components that are going to see this extra power and strain. Valves, valve springs, pistons, rods, crank, bearings, clutch, trans, axles, mounts, and etc.

You could also make the same arguement for a supercharger or N20. With any significant power boost you are going to have to look for the next weakest link.


You are 100% correct reference to a kit. Everything has to be thought of to support the added modifications.

Simply to say that "Turbo = Unreliable" Is a BS blanket statement that is 100% False...

It's the question of "Why" that is important... That Why will take you away from the Turbo itself and to all the OEM things that were not planned for such as Oil Leaks and Crappy Driveshafts.

the only time I have ever heard about turbo cars being down all the time is when its a custom setup. But that is expected because its hard to get a tune down over night, its going to take some tweaking to get the tune down 100%

with a kit, this should never be an issue as a quality kit will have already done all the R&D for you.

and any other issue has just been user error...

You will still ALWAYS have growing pains..

Pipes coming off
Oil Leaks
or other issues.

Doing a kit on a car is something to elect to do to your car.

You accept the risk that it will require regular verification and maintence.

Honestly, I have a 91 Skyline GTS 4, with the rb20det engine. The car has 215,000k on it and it runs just great. When I start it I let it run for a minute, just to get everything going, then I have a greddy turbo time set at 20 sec for shutdown. I love the car so much I'm actually afraid to get stateside and pick up my Cobalt SS S/c because I've never owned a Supercharged Vehicle before. I've really never have had a problem with it. The setup is great and I take care of it so it will with out a doubt see 300,000 or more clicks on it.

well i intend to buy a kit that is set to run on the car and be tuned right the first day its installed and regular maintance is not a problem for me, but im glad this thread could clear up some misconceptions of turbo reliablity

well i intend to buy a kit that is set to run on the car and be tuned right the first day its installed and regular maintance is not a problem for me, but im glad this thread could clear up some misconceptions of turbo reliablity


My first and best suggestion. Don't be cheap. If you can run a Rubber Hose, Run an Aeroquip Hose. If you can run a regular fitting, run a russel fitting.

Second, Anticipate all the weak points such as the clutch and motor mounts and do them at the same time, Why wait for an OEM part to fail just to save some money. If you are lucly, you will never have to poen that fucker again for a long time.

Get a clutch that is rated the the HP that you plan to use. Overkill in this case might make the car totally undrivable for daily use.

If you need to hold only 300WHP and you get a 4 Puck that is good for 600+, you will be burning out or burning the flywheel at each light.

well i dont plan on being cheap i plan on spending $5k for the initial kit install and tuning, i have the auto transmission so i wont be able to upgrade the clutch but im keeping the power where i know it will hold it, if the kit is missing parts for install im gonna be mad cuz i paid all that money but whatever parts i do use will be the best possible of course, i spent $700 on an exhaust so im not gonna go cheap on the hoses. do you really think my mounts will NEED a change after turbo? i p[lan on changing them along with some suspension stuff but not right away

Driver Skill must be at a permium on that show...

I tell ya what...goto "supporting vendors" section, and find "Modacar.com" it's HIS car, and HE was talking...discuss that with him.

im sure he knows what he is talking about then

well its simply because if a turbo part of the design all the components are designed with this in mind ... by adding a turbo you add stress on the entire car that’s components were never intended/designed to take the stress of the extra power ...when a car is designed its components are put through NVH to see what kind of stress they can take how many repetitions at a given Hz and then typically over designed 25% for a safety you are changing the equation and can get away with it in some areas because of the over design ... however it makes it more susceptible to failure since it is closer to the limit

Well said.

If you're car doesn't come boosted, you're going to have trouble maintaining it because you just turned yourself into the engineer and taking that away from actual manufacturer's engineers.

Like myself, I've beaten the hell out of my firewall, cut holes in my engine bay, removed and relocated items, took out my a/c...yeah...that wasn't GMs intent at all lol

Another issue people have to realize is computer programming, which you Cobalt guys have more to worry about because you guys are more computer oriented than the J-body fellas. Either way, your computer is programmed to send X amount of fuel and have X amount of ignition timing. The main thing you need when it comes to being turbo'd is fuel (more air requires more fuel) and you need to maintain a well balanced a/f mixture. Cars you see that come boosted are programmed to see boost with their MAP or MAF sensors...ours aren't. Because of this, it doesn't know how to comphensate the fuel for the high flowing air amount that's entering the motor. Because of this, it will try and stay at one air fuel mixture which could totally destroy your motor...but guess what...your computer didn't know any better because it's a dumb and can't learn unless you reflash it.

In reality, when you modify, you are becoming an engineer. If you can't handle being the engineer, than don't modify and buy a stock boosted car that had professional engineers design it.

My first and best suggestion. Don't be cheap.

Being cheap will lead to problems. You have to think of the future, not just the present. If you have the option to spend the extra $100 on a part that will last years rather than the cheaper part that will last months...use your head.

well i dont plan on being cheap i plan on spending $5k for the initial kit install and tuning, i have the auto transmission so i wont be able to upgrade the clutch but im keeping the power where i know it will hold it

Trust and believe that an automatic transmission can hold more power than a manual WITHOUT upgrades. You'll be fine. Also, save money for "just incase" things that could pop up.

well i dont plan on being cheap i plan on spending $5k for the initial kit install and tuning, i have the auto transmission so i wont be able to upgrade the clutch but im keeping the power where i know it will hold it, if the kit is missing parts for install im gonna be mad cuz i paid all that money but whatever parts i do use will be the best possible of course, i spent $700 on an exhaust so im not gonna go cheap on the hoses. do you really think my mounts will NEED a change after turbo? i p[lan on changing them along with some suspension stuff but not right away


Honestly, If you have an Automatic, I would suggest looking into a huge tranny oil cooler and keeping the turbo below 5 Psi. Automatics are notorious for failing under reasonalble HP increases. The Converter starts to slip and then your done.

man i think we found Brian's religion or at least his past time

Honestly, If you have an Automatic, I would suggest looking into a huge tranny oil cooler and keeping the turbo below 5 Psi. Automatics are notorious for failing under reasonalble HP increases. The Converter starts to slip and then your done.

Wow...that's far from true.

Automatics are notorious for failing because of HEAT not horsepower. Even GM Racing uses Automatic Transmissions (example: GMs Cobalt). If you have a transmission that was working properly before hand and you have a transmission cooler on it for insurance, you should be fine.

If you guys don't believe me, Ask Aaron (Turbo Tech Racing), his car before it was a manual put down over 300 whp on an AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION with no transmission cooler (this is the 4T40E transmission by the way).

If you guys don't believe me, Ask Aaron (Turbo Tech Racing), his car before it was a manual put down over 300 whp on an AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION with no transmission cooler (this is the 4T40E transmission by the way).
It was a Manual Automatice? :confused:

It was a Manual Automatice? :confused:

I believe he did a transmission swap.

so who knows what the auto in the 2.4 can actually handle? 4t40e is that what i have?

so who knows what the auto in the 2.4 can actually handle? 4t40e is that what i have?

uh, to answer question 2 , I beleave you have the 4t45e.... i'm 99% sure.

can i assume that my tranny would be better than the one off the cvalier then?

can i assume that my tranny would be better than the one off the cvalier then?

I don't think it's any stronger. The 4T40E transmission can handle plenty as well.

Wow...that's far from true.

Automatics are notorious for failing because of HEAT not horsepower. .

There is a point where power comes into play though , and hp/tq WILL find all your weak points even on properly cooled trans . I got to a point in my Trans Am where I was breaking both input , output shafts and twisting sun shell cases on a heavily modded 4L60e trans that had more than adequate cooling . The last time I twisted the sunshell , it cracked open the top of the trans case :lol: Also , using synthetic in auto is good way to shorten the life of the clutches in a street car . Synthetic would def. benefit the hard parts for a race trans that see's regular replacement of the clutches , but allows too much slip of the clutches to really be desireable in a street car . Once I got my all the weaknesses in my trans handled , all I used was GM dextron III .

Celicacobalt- if the 2.4 does in fact use 4t45e , browse around the Grand Am GT forums . I do believe its the trans they have , and their are some moderately qwik turbocharged Grand Am GT's using the stock auto . For you - use the highest capacity cooler u can use ....go overkill on a trans cooler and definately have a trans temp gauge mounted in the car . Also dont skimp on a cheap torque converter , you can compliment your turbocharged set-up greatly , by a properly selected converter .

As far as turbo reliablity - the unreliable myth is just that . Unfortunately theres alot of people in the hot rod community that think they have all the answers , think bigger is better no matter what , dont invest the time to properly match their combo and have a install it and forget it mentality , not giving any though to regular maintanece at all . My friend Darren's 91 stang GT make 878 hp to the wheels , is cruised on the weekends and raced frequently . Combo has been together for a year and half with nothing but regular maintenance :)

can i assume that my tranny would be better than the one off the cvalier then?


From Halfcent: "the transmission. The GM 4T45E automatic in the Cobalt has a torque limit of 220 ft/lbs."

"As for the transmission stats, you are a little off. The 4T40 can only handle a maximum torque input of 190 ft/lbs while the 4T45 can handle 220. That data is published."

Oh btw, thats from this thread, http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5546&highlight=automatic+transmission

I remembered he posted that stuff 6mos. ago........... and what can I say the dude's a wealth of information along with others on this site so there ya go! :twothumbs

From Halfcent: "the transmission. The GM 4T45E automatic in the Cobalt has a torque limit of 220 ft/lbs."

"As for the transmission stats, you are a little off. The 4T40 can only handle a maximum torque input of 190 ft/lbs while the 4T45 can handle 220. That data is published."

hahaha

That makes me laugh...there is a guy on the JBO right now by the name of Skillz who is running a 4T40E transmission putting down 260 WHP reliably. I hope you guys really don't believe those stats.

People who believe GM's numbers make me laugh. I was told by a GM Performance Division Engineer on Power Tour 2005 (won't name a name though) that my car would break before I hit 300BHP. He didn't put it nicely either. Basically said, in front of LOTS of spectators, that he would wait to hear about me blowing up if I tried. When I made 260WHP I sent him a email containing the dyno graph, calculations to guarantee I was over 300BHP, and a nice letter telling him where to take his numbers and his words to me on the PT. If GM's own engineers think that way I can only imagine what some of you guys must be like when you swear by their numbers.

283HP and the rods go...MYTH BUSTED BY ME AND YASMIN
300BHP and the motor will be gone...MYTH BUSTED BY ME
190ft/lbs on a 4T40...MYTH BUSTED BY SKILZ AND OTHERS
220ft/lbs on a 4T45...MYTH BUSTED BY SOMEONE WHO SHALL REMAIN NAMELESS
250ft/lbs on a F22...MYTH BUSTED BY ME AND OTHERS
250ft/lbs on a stock clutch...MYTH BUSTED BY ME
Axles will go with 1 good launch...HEARD THAT ALMOST 200 PASSES AGO. THAT INCLUDES A .000 AND NUMEROUS .100 AND UNDER R/Ts AND NUMEROUS 1.9 SECOND - 2.2 SECOND 60 FOOTS.

Anyone else want to give me some numbers they've heard about the Ecotec and it's transmission combos that I can prove wrong? Come on...someone HAS to think GM knows it all still.

People who believe GM's numbers make me laugh. I was told by a GM Performance Division Engineer on Power Tour 2005 (won't name a name though) that my car would break before I hit 300BHP. He didn't put it nicely either. Basically said, in front of LOTS of spectators, that he would wait to hear about me blowing up if I tried. When I made 260WHP I sent him a email containing the dyno graph, calculations to guarantee I was over 300BHP, and a nice letter telling him where to take his numbers and his words to me on the PT. If GM's own engineers think that way I can only imagine what some of you guys must be like when you swear by their numbers.

283HP and the rods go...MYTH BUSTED BY ME AND YASMIN
300BHP and the motor will be gone...MYTH BUSTED BY ME
190ft/lbs on a 4T40...MYTH BUSTED BY SKILZ AND OTHERS
220ft/lbs on a 4T45...MYTH BUSTED BY SOMEONE WHO SHALL REMAIN NAMELESS
250ft/lbs on a F22...MYTH BUSTED BY ME AND OTHERS
250ft/lbs on a stock clutch...MYTH BUSTED BY ME
Axles will go with 1 good launch...HEARD THAT ALMOST 200 PASSES AGO. THAT INCLUDES A .000 AND NUMEROUS .100 AND UNDER R/Ts AND NUMEROUS 1.9 SECOND - 2.2 SECOND 60 FOOTS.

Anyone else want to give me some numbers they've heard about the Ecotec and it's transmission combos that I can prove wrong? Come on...someone HAS to think GM knows it all still.

I <3 Hypsy

I don't think GM "knows it all"...by any means... But I don't have a lot of info to go off of. And I would think they (GM) would be pretty close/reliable source, Although, I'm sure their posted numbers are conservative. Also, I don't have a lot of experience with the Ecotec yet really, looks like you do (hypsy & NJHK) but thats what these forums are for...to share information right? :twothumbs

283HP and the rods go...MYTH BUSTED BY ME AND YASMIN

Back to my original point... I don't know you or yasmin... so I don't know how reliable that is. Not trying to be a dick.... just pointing that out. Last, you guys found this 283hp "breakpoint" to be untrue... but for how long?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences guys, -Brandon

I made over 75 passes above 283BHP in 2005 alone. I made 19 more this past weekend running at nearly 300WHP. The motor can take the abuse.

hello hypsy its me cavaliersrus from the org i now own a 2006 cobalt ss/sc nice to see you again man how goes the car

well its simply because if a turbo part of the design all the components are designed with this in mind ... by adding a turbo you add stress on the entire car that’s components were never intended/designed to take the stress of the extra power ...when a car is designed its components are put through NVH to see what kind of stress they can take how many repetitions at a given Hz and then typically over designed 25% for a safety you are changing the equation and can get away with it in some areas because of the over design ... however it makes it more susceptible to failure since it is closer to the limit


you say that cars are typically over designed 25%.
well, you should check out the gm sport compact performance build book

http://www.gm.com/company/gmtunersource/html/race_shop_build_book.htm

because gm rates basically each internal part on the 2.2 l for its hp capacity.... and its not 25% :lol:

the rods are rated up to 250 hp (WHICH IS 72% "OVER DESIGNED" FOR ITS POWER CAPACITY) daaaaammmmnnnnn

the stock ecotec 2.2 pistons have been tested to power levels approaching 300hp ( 107% )
holy shit!!!!

the oem intake manifold has been tested by gm to the 350 hp level ( 141% )

crankshaft is tested up to 550-600hp with no durability issues (314%)

camshafts are tested to 400 hp (176%)

engine head has been run to 500 hp with stock valves (245%)

they use the stock water pump on ecotec race engines

they only had to modify the block when they went 500+ hp on the cobalt and all they did was install high strength cylinder sleeves


dont be afraid to give it power, its a chevy!

and thanx to cobaltjustin's link for all this info i found

and if you dont believe what gm is telling you... then buy a ford :thumbsdow
and get smoked

now i only read the first page to this thread so if i am repeating someone dont mind me. the turbo kit that hahn is developing for the 2.4 L cobalts is supposed to be a "bolt on" kit from what i have read on other threads and after looking at the hahn site. now from what i gather they are designing and testing the turbo on stock internals. if thats true would anyone still suggest upgrading internals or since it was designed for a stock 2.4 engine would it be ok to just bolt it on and enjoy?

now i only read the first page to this thread so if i am repeating someone dont mind me. the turbo kit that hahn is developing for the 2.4 L cobalts is supposed to be a "bolt on" kit from what i have read on other threads and after looking at the hahn site. now from what i gather they are designing and testing the turbo on stock internals. if thats true would anyone still suggest upgrading internals or since it was designed for a stock 2.4 engine would it be ok to just bolt it on and enjoy?

If someone feels they are going to turn up the boost pass a limit that they feel is too far, than yes, they should replace the internals. As far as if you have to, no.

As far as the bolt on thing...any real turbo kit from a company should be as simple as possible and have everything that should be there. The term "Bolt On" is a very general thing to say but yes, it should be as simple as a turbo kit can be.

If someone feels they are going to turn up the boost pass a limit that they feel is too far, than yes, they should replace the internals. As far as if you have to, no.

As far as the bolt on thing...any real turbo kit from a company should be as simple as possible and have everything that should be there. The term "Bolt On" is a very general thing to say but yes, it should be as simple as a turbo kit can be.
i knew that you would come through man, thanks much. this is exactly what i needed to know because i really would like to save the money, for now, on upgrading internals so when the kit comes out i will keep the psi low enough so that i dont have to upgrade internals right away. :twothumbs

i knew that you would come through man, thanks much. this is exactly what i needed to know because i really would like to save the money, for now, on upgrading internals so when the kit comes out i will keep the psi low enough so that i dont have to upgrade internals right away. :twothumbs

Yup. Good luck and glad I could help.

so basically where does the so called "lag" occur?

so basically where does the so called "lag" occur?

Improperly matching of a turbo to a motor.