I was just wondering from ppl who have done it how hard is the actual install...also what methods did you use like jackstand or lifts? valve cover off or on? just general stuff really if yall have time.

 

i think it's pretty general you need a lift, and to go from the bottom, i don't think there is any way to get in in from the top.

at least not without pulling the head.

 

well they take it off to get the the bolts better or something

 

that's the main issue, the thing has to go from the bottom because it's so ******* big, then it;s crazy difficult to tighten everything down. But i'm sure once you get it on there, it'll be worth it.

 

its a bit off topic but i always wanted to get one but i heard i'll need engine mounts as well to stop the header from hitting the firewall...can anyone confirm this?

 

i read that they tested it on stock mounts and it was fine..didnt even come close with their redesign

 

i just bought this off the group buy that just happened and this came up and from what i understand is the header was redesigned so you don't have to cut move or bent anything and you no longer need to wrap the 2nd primary...

 

yup thats what i read

 

i highly doubt that. Most people by this point have mounts already, but i don't think the motor moves that far.

 

so yea anybody with experience with installing the header

 

solid mounts on my car

I didn't personaly install the header, but I was around for it on my car.

Just jack up the front, keep it up w/ two jack stands.

unbolt the dp

unto the stock header and heat shield

upon puting the header in from the bottom, you need to flip it, and then rotate it once it clears some of the stuff underneath your car.

some of the bolts can be tigthened from the bottom
some of the others can be done from the top

I personally had the stock bolts reused, because the supplied bolts need a allan key to loosen or tighten them. And that would of been a huge pain in the a**.

I had to slightly move the AC piping upwards about 1/2" to clear the header, and cut away at some of the firewall material.

 

cool thanks did they remove the valve cover?

 

nope, just follow the above instructions. you'll see every step as you do it.

 

Its a really tight space back there

 

i'll trade someone some ksport coilovers and alittle cash for a jbp header

 

cool sounds good man thanks

 

np, have fun with it

 

i'm thinking screw removing the valve cover if i need the room i'll loosen up my mounts and use a ratchet strap and rock the motor forward... did it on my buddies GTP and **** worked wonders for installing his rear header

 

lol good call but it should be fine there is a little space to play with to tighten the bolts back there from the top

 

i installed mine last night, took like 3 hours cause its so hard to get the header in the area lol. and its a bitch to get all the bolts tightened

 

jason and wolf, go take some vids of what your cars sound like.

 

did you go from the bottom? take the valve cover off?

 

i will, i took video of the hahn header as well so i can compare it. it almost sounds like a subaru now, like a purr? lol

yes i went through the bottom, and i left the valve cover on. no way possible to get the header through the top even without the valve cover.

 

alright cool thats how im gonna go at it..

 

yea, that's what I've noticed from the 3 youtube vids I found on it. It's got a boxer-like sound. I don't know how that does for power. JBP claims "32WHP ZOMG!!!!" but it's been proven over and over again that equal length headers are better for the power band and make better power.

JBP also says their primaries are "computer tuned", however the **** you do that.

I think it does sound pretty crazy, I know it real deep.