i haven't pulled the ttr mount yet, so my vibrations felt will most likely go down.

17 and 18mm sockets needed.

torque on the mount to subframe is 40ft lbs on both of them

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount13.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount11.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount10.jpg

front mount is cake walk. two 17mm's and an 18mm and it falls out. i did this on a lift tonight in about 15 mins tops. with air tools.

rear one is a bit more technical to get out and swapped. not hard if you have enough ground clearance

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount9.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount8.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount7.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount6.jpg

really can't see the rear one too well it when it installed. you get the idea though.

dfco is less noticeable when hit. the vibes go away as engine rpm and speed increase. less rocking of the motor itself. i never had wheel hop issues aside from at the track when vht is involved. my tire pressure is set to 34 in the front, and 36 in the rear. did a 1-2 run after i got them in and still rolled smoke off the tires with ease. i can't use the two step to launch the car. meth nozzle is to big. have to drop the hammer at a higher rpm when i get bored enough to do it.

I'll be needing this

lawl at your review. All I read was "I have too much power, but you guys will probably enjoy these"

:lol:

meth nozzle is too big, lol

too bad i can't see the pictures.

does it still do that horrible bucking in first if you're not uber sensitive about the trottle?

i need some of these :)

i would like a ride porfavor :lol:

meth nozzle is too big, lol

too bad i can't see the pictures.

does it still do that horrible bucking in first if you're not uber sensitive about the trottle?

415ml nozzle is a bit big when trying to roll into the throttle.
:)

newp, no bucking. thats more of the driver input than anything else

how easy would it be to change the bushings on my tranny mounts

415ml nozzle is a bit big when trying to roll into the throttle.
:)
haha, i guess so.


newp, no bucking. thats more of the driver input than anything else

10-4, just curious. wanted to see if i could be a little more lazy.

::eh em::

I remember a certain tvs car promise a smoke show once these where installed

how easy would it be to change the bushings on my tranny mounts

pain in the dick actually

why would you need to change yours?

::eh em::

I remember a certain tvs car promise a smoke show once these where installed

kind of hard to get a video by yourself

did you get the brakes too?

i haven't pulled the ttr mount yet, so my vibrations felt will most likely go down.

17 and 18mm sockets needed.

torque on the mount to subframe is 74ft lbs on both of them

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount13.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount11.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount10.jpg

front mount is cake walk. two 17mm's and an 18mm and it falls out. i did this on a lift tonight in about 15 mins tops. with air tools.

rear one is a bit more technical to get out and swapped. not hard if you have enough ground clearance

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount9.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount8.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount7.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m284/Area47/mount6.jpg

really can't see the rear one too well it when it installed. you get the idea though.

dfco is less noticeable when hit. the vibes go away as engine rpm and speed increase. less rocking of the motor itself. i never had wheel hop issues aside from at the track when vht is involved. my tire pressure is set to 34 in the front, and 36 in the rear. did a 1-2 run after i got them in and still rolled smoke off the tires with ease. i can't use the two step to launch the car. meth nozzle is to big. have to drop the hammer at a higher rpm when i get bored enough to do it.whats the deal with the last mount you installed,whats up with the bracket,do you still use that bracket?

pain in the dick actually

why would you need to change yours?



kind of hard to get a video by yourself

March 7th lets dooo ittt we'll get multiple angles

kind of hard to get a video by yourself

do what paul does, have your mailman get involved :)

thanks for the short review Bryan

prolly pick these up in the near future.

Im curious to see how much of a difference these make. They look great. I dont have any wheel hop with my ttr mount.

so the tq spec for the subframe is 74, whats the spec for the tranny side? im swapping in my prothane bushings soon. thanks.

and great how to/show off thread

whats the deal with the last mount you installed,whats up with the bracket,do you still use that bracket?

yes you still need that bracket. its what attaches it to the tranny. the toughest part of the whole install i found was getting the spacers to fit on the bracket with the new mount.

that i would have to look up again when i get back to the shop tomorrow.

yes. you reuse the bracket on the backside.

thanks. can i bother you to shoot me a pm when you get the specs? thanks you

lawl at your review. All I read was "I have too much power, but you guys will probably enjoy these"

:lol:

damn man your still on here?? good to see ya still here... i missed ss.net

damn man your still on here?? good to see ya still here... i missed ss.net

Where did ya go?

^uranus (i had to say it)

i stand behind this 100% on them working as intended. less power is lost when you get wide open, in a sense more is transfered to the tires instead of using it to rotate the engine. dfco entry and exit feeling is bog down is gone. shuddering when the clutch is popped is gone.

these mounts 110% work as they are designed to

Are these the rotated mounts? if so how the space for the tvs? any clearance issues up top?

dfco is less noticeable when hit. the vibes go away as engine rpm and speed increase. less rocking of the motor itself. i never had wheel hop issues aside from at the track when vht is involved. my tire pressure is set to 34 in the front, and 36 in the rear. did a 1-2 run after i got them in and still rolled smoke off the tires with ease. i can't use the two step to launch the car. meth nozzle is to big. have to drop the hammer at a higher rpm when i get bored enough to do it.

Pardon, but could someone define "dfco" and "vht".

I ordered mine this morning. So excited to hear they are relatively easy to install.

i stand behind this 100% on them working as intended. less power is lost when you get wide open, in a sense more is transfered to the tires instead of using it to rotate the engine. dfco entry and exit feeling is bog down is gone. shuddering when the clutch is popped is gone.

these mounts 110% work as they are designed to

why would your decel fuel cut off be so rough to start off with? i never have noticed, wait wait i know what you mean now, your talking about say letting up in first and second and entering dfco, you get that horibble lunge foward followed by two clicks of the axels. then when you get back on it, it does the same thing? and you have to be super smooth to avoid this?

is that what you mean? that is much smoother now due to less engine travel/movement?

if so that alone is a big plus, and on a larger scale (DR's and VHT) its going to really shine...

Pardon, but could someone define "dfco" and "vht".

I ordered mine this morning. So excited to hear they are relatively easy to install.

Deceleration fuel cut off

VHT is what they put on the track to get grip.

these mounts are looking better and better with each review i read, thanks bry bry.

Deceleration fuel cut off

VHT is what they put on the track to get grip.

ah, now that makes sense. Well, now I'm even more excited, i get so embarrassed when i smack passengers heads off the dash in city stop and go traffic.:lol:

subscribed for use when my mounts come in.

less motor movement. results in less issues with engine movement. duh! smoother engagement and disengagement
:)

did a 1-2 run in the rain. which lasted about 10 ft. zero hop. my car in first in the rain would hop. doesn't hop anymore

Torque Specs:

Front and Rear Trans Mount (thru bolts) - 74 ft/lbs

Front Transaxle Mount to Transaxle Bolts (2 bolts) - 66 ft/lbs (MUST BE TORQUED IN SEQUENCE BELOW)

-----> Top bolt, then bottom.

Rear Transaxle Mount to Subframe Bolts (3 bolts) - 44 ft/lbs

should we use lock tite?

nope. don't have too

subscribed

removed the TTR engine mount. vibrations dropped a lot. still just a hint of them, not like it was however.

:)

same results on the street though

does it matter if we leave the ttr motor mount in?

Still waiting for smoke fest :)

does it matter if we leave the ttr motor mount in?

You want to use the stock mount since its more flexible.

Them are nice got to get me a set of those...along with a few other things this summer if all goes right!

conn, you can leave it in and be fine. just vibrates more. since im the test monkey for these, i am just going off how they are intended to be used to get a real world result for the masses

ok that works for me i dont mind the vibs plus i dont have the stock mount anymore

snow report. everyone with stock mounts, or a ttr engine mount has this problem. 1st gear in the snow. let the clutch out. the car will hop.

with these mounts, this is gone. zero hop.
:)

I am glad they will work properly on lowered cars. You're the second or third I know of that have them installed on a lowered vehicle. I just have to find my stock mount now. Thanks.

THese are sounding better and better :) so the TTR upper mount can stay?

did you get rid of your stocker?

i took the ttr mount off, put the stocker back on. vibs are 90% gone. you can use it with the ttr upper. however, they are designed to be used with the stock side mounts.

I know with the poly mounts, the resonating noise in the cabin seemed to be a lot worse than when I just had the hahn exhaust on. Is your cabin quieter now as well?

Where did ya go?

I left the forum for a lil while... I got rid of my cobalt and bought a stupid ass GMC Canyon... now I wanna get the new SS/TC and make it a project car...

hey area, stupid question but im guessing when i install these i need to have an engine cradle to support the engine/tranny when i switch these out? does it matter what one i switch out first? thanks

do the rear first. it's not easy. then again i cheated and have access to air tools and a lift. also, do one at a time. you will thank me later

do the rear first. it's not easy. then again i cheated and have access to air tools and a lift. also, do one at a time. you will thank me later

yeah, i have the same situation lol.. my uncle owns his own collision shop so i have access to alot of stuff.. 5 or 6 lifts lol.. but i wont have to support the tranny or motor whe i have one out? just making sure so i dont break anything

may want to use a pole jack just for moral support

ever find the tq specs of the tranny side?

ever find the tq specs of the tranny side?

I posted them. Should be on the 1st page.

thanks. and for anyone whos looking, its page 2 post #33