does anyone know if you have to reflash your ECU after you install the OTTP stage 1 kit? Can a GM dealer do it or do you have to send it out to be done? Also, would a GM dealer install this kit or no because it's not a GM kit?

http://cobaltss.net/images/sigs/sc_orange.jpg (http://cobaltss.net)

u can install it urself..and u send them ur ecu and they tune it and send it back..

It comes with a tuned pcm,you just swap yours out with theirs and send yours back to OTTP.

the only thing you may need to go to the dealer for is a case relearn, and ive heard you need a security relearn too.

the only thing you may need to go to the dealer for is a case relearn, and ive heard you need a security relearn too.

I don't THINK you have to do any of that if you send them yours for the reflash.

the only thing you may need to go to the dealer for is a case relearn, and ive heard you need a security relearn too.

na u dont..

how long does it take for them to reflash it and send it back? does it cost anything for them to do it?

http://cobaltss.net/images/sigs/sc_orange.jpg (http://cobaltss.net)

the reflash is part of the kit. you can either send your pcm and they will flash it and send it back with the kit, they can send you the tune file and you can have it flashed in by someone with hp tuners (the dealer cant and wont do this) or you can pay a core charge and they will send you a pcm with the tune (wich you will have to have a case learn and possibly security learn done) and your core charge will be refunded when you send your old pcm to them.

i just installed my kit, and had the tune file emailed to me, well i have the car finally runnng, it ran a bit rough on the start because i guess anti freeze got in the motor threw the injector hole during the coolent leak when takign the fuel rail off. But now ...... yes more issues, my key pads dont work and my security light doesnt come on, but the one pad will unlock the truck and if u have the car running and u hit lock on the same pad the doors lock then unlock, how do i fix this? and another my mpg's are at like 9 when i first started driving, so i hit reset now im at 40 mpg's, help please?

sounds like you need to do a security relearn, although i may be wrong there. as for the mileage readout, that may be because the pcm needs to learn still, but ive also read that with larger injectors the milage readout is not accurate.

i got everythign good, the battery was near dead in one key pad and the other the soder broke so nothign from that one at all, but i did do a security relearn. I did notice from driving it yesterday that it tends to run a lil hotter but im guessing thats because of the 60's and when it idle there are time it sounds like my 69 firebird when idling sounds like its gonna die

any idea's?

post a video of it.

i have tried for a video, but it doesnt do it, ill try this morning. I get like a misfire like the cylinders are not ignighting properly but after the car warms up past 120 it runs great. I put 92 octane gas with no ethonal in

its because of the 60's. mine does that too. i had a buddy raise my idle and that helped a lot. hopefully getting a custom tune tomorrow so that should eliminate it

i havent takin a video yet, at 6am everymorning its not on my lists to remember. But i have been letting my car run for 10 to 15 min in the morning and this seems to eliminate it. I do know i will be purchasing brakes and roters from the r1 concepts group buy, i guess the saying is you go up in power, upgrade ur brakes

i got everythign good, the battery was near dead in one key pad and the other the soder broke so nothign from that one at all, but i did do a security relearn. I did notice from driving it yesterday that it tends to run a lil hotter but im guessing thats because of the 60's and when it idle there are time it sounds like my 69 firebird when idling sounds like its gonna die

runs hotter cause you have no cooling mods and that pulley creates more heat. you need some cooling mods. the idle is that way for 60's alot of the time especially if its just a canned tune.

The coolant temp (in which hes speaking about) has nothing to do with the pulley setup.

how would it not? he's pushing hotter air (into the engine) with no cooling mods....of course it's gonna run a little hotter.

im in hanover/york area irish btw if you ever need anything.

Because reguardless the engine temp is ran through a thermostat. The temperature of the iats do not have that much of an effect on the engine temperature itself.

Example... when running my turbo hard, my coolant temps shoot up to the mid 190s from its base temp of 180.

My IATS2 are only 15 to 20 degrees more than iat1.... normally just barely reaching over 100 or so.

Example... when running my turbo hard, my coolant temps shoot up to the mid 190s from its base temp of 180.


You just confirmed the point i was making thanks lol ;).
Now 10 degrees over with a turbo think about how much that'll rise with a s/c forcing 170+ degree IAT's into the motor. That's what I'm saying. Of course the motor coolant will cool off crusing or not on the gas but temps will be noticeably higher when not driving normal.
Hows the turbo going for you btw haha.

No, the point i was making is that the iats didnt have anything to do with it. I ran a 2.8 with no cooling mods and never went above 189. The heat from the turbo is actually making the coolant temps rise, not the iats.

If only +10* made 193 coolant temps, 165* iats2 would make it like 230* coolants.

its the extra cylinder pressure.

Sigh......................

Your not thinking about it.

Your argument was that the iats will raise your coolant temp.

Turbo with iat2s of 110, raised coolant temp to ~193.

Supercharger with iats2 of 140, raised coolant temp to ~189.

So, the turbo, moving cooler air, raised the coolant temps more than the s/c? Your argument does no coincide with the results.

And yes, the turbo itself can make things hotter on the engine... which even more validates the point that the iats had nothing to do with it.

And btw the turbo is kicking ass.. lol.

yeah i keep wanting to pick up parts but know i can't do what i want to with one at the moment haha. need to wait for a better job after school :(.

Yea.... it was a good little pick in the wallet.. but well worth it...

the hahn kit is nice...very nice....

i can understand if i was driving it for a while and the car starts buckin in 2nd or 3rd but its 3 nin into my drive when i go up the cliff to work, i am running the stock h/e and the ott h/e, may do dual pass ion the spring

bucking? that's tq management if we're talking about the same thing.
need any help with dual pass feel free to pm me when it comes time it's def worth it cheap too considering what it does.