Hello All,

I'm starting to get some parts together for my supercharger build. So I figured I'd start a thread and I can start posting pics of what I have purchased to help others.

Thanks, Gene.

subscribed

keep us updated... im trying to do the same thing!

keep us updated... im trying to do the same thing!

You're from the Philadelphia area? I live in Reading and work in Conshohocken. Perhaps we can exchange notes about what we need.

Ok you guys may or may not know that I'm a GM Parts Dealer.

Anyway, I ordered myself some new stuff like supercharger gasket, tb gasket, tb bolts, etc. In the list of parts it says we need it lists a LSJ MAP sensor and LSJ map sensor connector.

The LSJ map sensor part number changed to 12614973 from 9359409. The LSJ map sensor connector is part number 88988320. The map sensor connector is a 4 pin, 4 wire and the new map sensor is a 3 pin. I called GM technical parts assistance and they told me the original is a 3 pin, 3 wire, and gave me another connector part number to use?

Now I read that I may not need a map sensor at all. What to do here??

there are two ways to do it. You can use the LSJ's 2.5bar MAP/iat2 sensor (which is either 4 or 5 wires, i cant recall), use the connector to wire that in place of the stock 1bar MAP sensor on the L61, or you can use the LSJ's 1bar MAP sensor (the one that sits on top of the supercharger) by getting a second one of those and using that in the Intake Manifold as well. Doing that allows you to use the stock connector, so no rewiring is necessary. Be sure to tell vince which sensor you use when he makes your tune, or things might go boom...literally.
the stock L61 MAP sensor is not reused in this project BTW

Wait, I thought we could reuse the stock MAP sensor in the L61s?

^^well, you CAN, but the sensor is smaller than the ports on the IM of the LSJ, so you'd need a custom method of holding it in place. Its far easier to just use one of the two LSJ MAP sensors

suscribed, I'm using the stock l61 map, going to make a custom bracket from aluminum rubber and quicksteel, I already plugged the top of the blower with a piece of rubber and a aluminum piece to hold the thick rubber down...anyway good luck with ur build I have a complete list of things I used I can pm u

suscribed, I'm using the stock l61 map, going to make a custom bracket from aluminum rubber and quicksteel, I already plugged the top of the blower with a piece of rubber and a aluminum piece to hold the thick rubber down...anyway good luck with ur build I have a complete list of things I used I can pm u

why not just use the SCIP MAP from the LSJ? It's bolt on...a lot less work

Yeah, I have the sensor in the top of the blower, but I think I'll just buy another LSJ MAP.

Do I need to rewire the harness for that?

Yeah, I have the sensor in the top of the blower, but I think I'll just buy another LSJ MAP.

Do I need to rewire the harness for that?

whcih LSJ MAP? the sensor in the blower is also a MAP, the one in the blower is a 1bar MAP, and the one in the manifold is a 2.5bar MAP (this is on a stock LSJ, on a 2.2/2.4 they can both be 1bar sensors or one can be a 2.5bar sensor)

Ok, I'm a little confused here. I'm not sure my original question was answered and this may get a little more complex.

First, there is only 1 MAP sensor on an LSJ. The other is what appears to be a Barametric Pressure Sensor. (this is what I'm experiencing, not to say I am a know it all, lol).

I purchased a MAP sensor, which my GM Parts Catalog says is on top of the supercharger. The MAP sensor is a 3 PIN, but the MAP sensor connector I purchased is a 4 PIN.

The Barometer sensor does not tell me where it is located in the catalog, but when I called for the correct connector part number for the MAP sensor they told me that the connector for the Barometer sensor was it.

I will have to check the service manual later today when I have a chance (finishing up my landscaping today) but my LAP (don't forget I have the 2.2 LAP) has the MAP sensor in the intake manifold.

So you're saying I don't need the MAP sensor at all? I don't mind buying the stock one to fill in the hole, but are you saying that I actually need this other Barometric Pressure Sensor to put into the LSJ intake manifold or does no sensor go in the LSJ intake manifold?

HELP. I'm reall confused now. :cool:

EDIT:

Ok curiousity killed the cat, so I decided to look in the service manual quick. The Barometric Pressure Sensor is not it. I just looked in the catalog and found the Intake Air Pressure And Tempeature Sensor. (IAT) Is this the other MAP sensor you were referring to?

suscribed, I'm using the stock l61 map, going to make a custom bracket from aluminum rubber and quicksteel, I already plugged the top of the blower with a piece of rubber and a aluminum piece to hold the thick rubber down...anyway good luck with ur build I have a complete list of things I used I can pm u

Please do PM.

Ok curiousity killed the cat, so I decided to look in the service manual quick. The Barometric Pressure Sensor is not it. I just looked in the catalog and found the Intake Air Pressure And Tempeature Sensor. (IAT) Is this the other MAP sensor you were referring to?





that sensor is the 2.5bar MAP sensor i was talking about. The other sensor is just a 1bar pressure sensor, not 2.5 like the MAP/IAT sensor

that sensor is the 2.5bar MAP sensor i was talking about. The other sensor is just a 1bar pressure sensor, not 2.5 like the MAP/IAT sensor

Thanks for the valuable information. Here is what I've found after I got off the computer.

I got into the service manual and the component locator and the real MAP sensor is the one in the intake manifold and the one in the supercharger is the supercharger inlet pressure sensor.

Now, here is what the problem is with the actual GM Parts catalog. In the GM Parts catalog I found the following:

(GM Catalog) MAP sensor = Supercharger inlet pressure sensor
(GM Catalog) Intake air pressure and temperature sensor = Real MAP sensor

So if I want to use the 2.5 bar MAP sensor then I must order the other one.

Question though. You guys say that you can use the L61 MAP sensor (and this is the same sensor as the LAP) as long as I modify it to stay in the intake manifold.

My question is though, will I still be able to read the air intake temps? In other words, other than staying in the hole what will the 2.5 bar MAP sensor do?

no. there wont be a way to read IAT2 if you use any of the 1bar MAP/SCIP sensors. Keep in mind, the only way to display IAT2's is to wire the MAP/IAT sensor in to replace the stock MAP sensor, and wire it in to the MAF to see IAT2s

Maybe I should look into resoldering my intake MAP that came in the LSJ manifold I bought back together - it had snapped...Or is the one on the top of the SC the same thing and I can just put the broken one in into the SC?

Maybe I should look into resoldering my intake MAP that came in the LSJ manifold I bought back together - it had snapped...Or is the one on the top of the SC the same thing and I can just put the broken one in into the SC?

theyre different sensors mang. didnt you read anything i typed? lol

No.

Too many words.

Haha.

Damn, If it's fixable, I'll fix it. If not, I'll buy a new one.

i aint gonna help you till you read. lol
i dont write this stuff just for the hell of it...especially when ive explained it several times.

no. there wont be a way to read IAT2 if you use any of the 1bar MAP/SCIP sensors. Keep in mind, the only way to display IAT2's is to wire the MAP/IAT sensor in to replace the stock MAP sensor, and wire it in to the MAF to see IAT2s

Hmm... I think I need to read up on what is IAT and IAT2 and then perhaps I can answer my own question?

I'm honestly just basically trying to figure out if I should or need to do the 2.5 bar map sensor.

with vince's tune, no..not really. the other pressure sensor is a plug and play one with your stock harness, where the 2.5bar map will require some custom wiring.

with vince's tune, no..not really. the other pressure sensor is a plug and play one with your stock harness, where the 2.5bar map will require some custom wiring.

So your advice is not to do the 2.5 map sensor and do the other pressure sensor?

So your advice is not to do the 2.5 map sensor and do the other pressure sensor?

thats the route I went, and its a lot easier. doing the 2.5bar methi is really only advantageous for the 2.4l guys since they have HP tuners and will usually be doing the tuning differently.

So, I'm confused - what sensor do we need to buy, then?

thats the route I went, and its a lot easier. doing the 2.5bar methi is really only advantageous for the 2.4l guys since they have HP tuners and will usually be doing the tuning differently.

Ok, when I looked at the other MAP sensor I didn't think the connector was the same as mine, so I'll have to take a look again. So you purchased the 1 bar MAP sensor and how did you hold it into the intake?

the 1bar map is STOCK ON YOUR CAR. you dont need to buy anything. However i had to modifiy the mounting method for the map sensor

the 1bar map is STOCK ON YOUR CAR. you dont need to buy anything. However i had to modifiy the mounting method for the map sensor

duuude...you need to read what i say. The 1bar MAP from a ss/sc fits directly in the hole on the LSJ IM, unlike the one that comes stock on a 2.2/2.4 which is too small. All you need is a way to hold the lsj 1bar down and you're good. If you use the 1bar from the 2.2/2.4, you have to worry about keeping it down so tight there isnt a boost leak.

So, the 1 bar is what we need, and should just bolt up where the other one was. Okay.

Ok, I didn't mean to upset anyone. I've just got some new parts I ordered at my desk at work and I didn't want to purchase until I figured it out.

I would rather not do any cutting or splicing if not necessary, so I'll get the LSJ 1 bar map. I'll have to figure out how to hold it down... does anyone have any ways... or descriptions on what they did to hold it down?

Also, I could swear the LSJ 1 bar map looked like it had a different connector than my map, but I'll double check.

click

Good luck

click

Good luck

Thank you!

I just looked in the service manual and the LSJ 1 bar MAP and my MAP sensor have the same connector.

So the end result is use LSJ 1 bar MAP sensor with stock connector. Thanks!!

So, yeah, how do you hold down the 1 Bar Map?

What are you doing as far as tuning?

So, yeah, how do you hold down the 1 Bar Map?

An answer would be good ;) If I could ever get an LSJ intake manifold I would try and figure it out. lol.

What are you doing as far as tuning?

I see that Trifecta does the G5 for 2009. I will be contacting them.

I sent out the supercharger to be powdercoated today. Still looking for more parts.

im doing mine saturday, looks terrible with the valve cover done

im doing mine saturday, looks terrible with the valve cover done

So you have your valve cover done and not the SC?

I agree. I am going to get my valve cover done right before I tear the car apart to install the SC.

yeah i have a pic in my gallery, the sc is painted but it looks too dull now

I didn't see your painted SC in the gallery?

Well today the powdercoater of my supercharger sent me a quick picture as it was cooling down from being in the oven.

Here are some before pics and todays pic. The black coating may not look bad in the pics, but it was terrible, with runs and was painted while it was on the vehicle by the previous owner, so it wasn't even covering in some places. I took it all off with acetone last Sunday and shipped it out to the PC.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/superchargerbeforepc.jpg


http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/superchargerafterpc.jpg

damn, was not expecting that color...very nice!

Hot damn that is RED!

Looks sweet!

Thanks guys. I chose that color because that is the color I powdercoated my calipers and also pretty much the same color as I'm having my interior trim painted.

I will be sending out the valve cover as well. Should be fun!

Here are the parts that I've purchased so far. Only a couple more used parts to go!

GM Parts

LSJ TB To SC Bolts (4)
LSJ TB Gasket
LSJ Supercharger Gasket
LSJ IC Pump Insulator
LSJ Intake Manifold Gasket
LSJ Stage 2 Serpentine Belt
LSJ 1 Bar Map Sensor
LSJ Upper Radiator Hose

New Parts

ZZP Heat Exchanger
OTTP SS SC Pulley Bolts
GlowShift Vacuum | Boost Gauge
AEM Wideband Air | Fuel Ratio Gauge
OTTP 3.0 Polished Pulley (For Stage 2 Hub)
M-8501-L54 Ford Racing Intercooler Pump


Used Parts

Eaton M62 Supercharger
GM Stage 2 Injectors (42lbs)
Stock LSJ Air Intake
Stock LSJ Throttle Body
Stock LSJ Serpentine Belt
Stock LSJ Intake Manifold
Stock LSJ Supercharger Pulley

So just an update here.

Hunterkiller89 is a major help and I very much appreciate it.

He pointed out today in another thread about the vacuum hoses and some questions I had.

So on the LAP:

Brake booster hose goes to the intake manifold. On the LSJ the brake booster hose goes to the supercharger. So, we will need a brake booster to supercharger hose from the LSJ. I have to imagine that you could use some standard vacuum hose, but I am going the GM route as I want my car to be done with factory stuff.

On the LSJ TB that vacuum hose goes from TB to evap solenoid. The LSJ and LAP evap solenoids are the same, so all you need is that hose.

On the supercharger bypass actuator there are two nipples. The top hose goes to the small nipple on the supercharger and the bottom one gets left open on our vehicles.

My next question was going to be where to hook up the mechanical boost gauge and he was nice enough to already answer it and say that it gets hooked up to the small nipple on the LSJ intake manifold.

Also, on the LAP, all of our cars have secondary air injection, so I will be purchasing the LSJ Header and the LSJ DP to get rid of that.

Been ordering parts all weekend, lol.

haha you really got this thing figured out pretty well. Just an FYI, you CAN use the stock brake booster hose, as it will reach the SC. Its just gonna be tight. A slightly longer hose would be an easy fit, but (ive heard) its a pain in the ass to reach the other end of that hose where it hooks in to the brake booster

So do we need to purchase any vacuum hoses at all?

And whats' the deal with the LSJ 8-Pin TB? That's what I have too...

haha you really got this thing figured out pretty well. Just an FYI, you CAN use the stock brake booster hose, as it will reach the SC. Its just gonna be tight. A slightly longer hose would be an easy fit, but (ive heard) its a pain in the ass to reach the other end of that hose where it hooks in to the brake booster

Thank you sir, for the info. I ordered the LSJ brake booster hose. It wasn't that expensive and we'll see what happens when I install, lol.

So do we need to purchase any vacuum hoses at all?

And whats' the deal with the LSJ 8-Pin TB? That's what I have too...

I purchased the TB to evap solenoid vacuum hose and the brake booster to SC hose. I don't want any surprises come install day.

From looking in the service manual, the LE5 already has the 8 pin TB connector, but the L61 does not. I ordered the connector today. It retails for $150 and I believe my price is around $85.

Oh well, I don't have a choice!

Gene when's your ETA on being done? Me and Rob are kinda racing, although I've pretty much already conceded defeat since he's beating me in parts about 10-fold. :D

Gene when's your ETA on being done? Me and Rob are kinda racing, although I've pretty much already conceded defeat since he's beating me in parts about 10-fold. :D

Well, I'm looking for a June install. It is taking a while to find the last of the used parts I need. I'm not paying $200 for a tensioner, lol.

I won't win any races as I'm still trying to find parts! :bye:

I'm still trying to find money to find parts. :lol:

I'm still trying to find money to find parts. :lol:

I don't understand how you're finding parts lol. That tensioner will not keep eluding me.

I spend more time on this forum than I should. I see people dropping hints they are getting rid of stuff and PM them... :D

Hopefully I will stumble upon one some day.

You're from the Philadelphia area? I live in Reading and work in Conshohocken. Perhaps we can exchange notes about what we need.

Ok you guys may or may not know that I'm a GM Parts Dealer.

Anyway, I ordered myself some new stuff like supercharger gasket, tb gasket, tb bolts, etc. In the list of parts it says we need it lists a LSJ MAP sensor and LSJ map sensor connector.

The LSJ map sensor part number changed to 12614973 from 9359409. The LSJ map sensor connector is part number 88988320. The map sensor connector is a 4 pin, 4 wire and the new map sensor is a 3 pin. I called GM technical parts assistance and they told me the original is a 3 pin, 3 wire, and gave me another connector part number to use?

Now I read that I may not need a map sensor at all. What to do here??


Not to be a stalker but what color is your LT? Im in Reading as well.

Not to be a stalker but what color is your LT? Im in Reading as well.

I don't have a Cobalt bud. I have a 2009 Pontiac G5 GT, Imperial Blue.

post pics!

What do you want pics of man?

So I got the intake manifold and some other parts. Currently working on reconditioning the intake manifold. I am going to paint it.

So last night I power washed and scrubbed the intake down. Today I primed it and it looks pretty good. Tomorrow I will paint it. I took pics before I started on it so we'll see what happens.

Good luck I did that to mine, washed it than cleaned it with throttle cleaner...took 3 cans to get it spotless on the inside

what color are you painting it? black i hope?

Good luck I did that to mine, washed it than cleaned it with throttle cleaner...took 3 cans to get it spotless on the inside

You're not kidding. Mine had all kinds of goop in there. I cleaned it up with some simple green and a tooth brush. Then I used some brake cleaner on some of it where it goes into the intake and I got that clean. It was not good!

what color are you painting it? black i hope?

Yes, I got some high temp black paint. I will post pics when I'm done.

why not just use the SCIP MAP from the LSJ? It's bolt on...a lot less work

I thought I remember you saying that the SCIP sensor can be used in the intake manifold and the stock L61 MAP sensor can be used to plug the hole on the supercharger?

I thought I remember you saying that the SCIP sensor can be used in the intake manifold and the stock L61 MAP sensor can be used to plug the hole on the supercharger?

the first half of that is correct. you'll need something bigger to plug the hole on the SC though

Casey said you need the LSJ SCIP sensor to plug that hole up (If I have quoted him correctly).

Personally, after I'm done reconditioning the intake manifold I'm going to tackle that job. I'm going to plug up that hole by some other means. I don't want to spend $40 or $50 to have an unconnected sensor there.

Casey said you need the LSJ SCIP sensor to plug that hole up (If I have quoted him correctly).

Personally, after I'm done reconditioning the intake manifold I'm going to tackle that job. I'm going to plug up that hole by some other means. I don't want to spend $40 or $50 to have an unconnected sensor there.

Yeah those are my thoughts too lol. Damn I thought the l61 map could plug that hole...now I have to think of another solution

Casey said you need the LSJ SCIP sensor to plug that hole up (If I have quoted him correctly).

Personally, after I'm done reconditioning the intake manifold I'm going to tackle that job. I'm going to plug up that hole by some other means. I don't want to spend $40 or $50 to have an unconnected sensor there.

correct! yea, i did it a more expensive way, but time was a factor, and my dealer (oddly enough) had a SCIP in stock..lol

You're not kidding. Mine had all kinds of goop in there. I cleaned it up with some simple green and a tooth brush. Then I used some brake cleaner on some of it where it goes into the intake and I got that clean. It was not good!

Sounds like I need to do that, too...

Yes, I'm going to call my friend over here who builds race cars and has had to fabricate things over the years and I want his opinion on how to plug the hole. I'm going to make it look nice.

One coat of paint is on the intake manifold. I sanded it down in a couple of spots tonight and hit the front with a second coat. I'll go out in the garage in an hour or so and do the 2nd coat on the back and then finish it up tomorrow and Wednesday.

I will post pics.

Casey, in my studies today I came across something I haven't seen addressed yet. No one has mentioned bolt #2, that I know of, in any of the how-to's. This would be bolt #2 in the attached document.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/cobalt/cobaltscaltmounting.pdf

While I'm waiting for Casey to respond, I just finished reconditioning my LSJ intake manifold. Here are before and after pics.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/cobalt/lsjintake-01.jpg
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/cobalt/lsjintake-02.jpg

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/cobalt/lsjintake-03.jpg
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/cobalt/lsjintake-04.jpg

wow, that looks secksy! I'm gonna have to paint mine too the next time the blower is off.
As for bolt #2, i dont think we have a spot in our block to screw it into. Even if we do though, its not needed at all. the one that goes through the alternator and the bracket into the block is plenty strong enough to hold everything in place. Again though, i think we just dont have that hole in our block.

Thank you for your comment about my secksy intake manifold, lol. I appreciate you letting me know about the other bolt. I kind of figured that was the case, but wanted to get the bolt before install day if necessary.

I also ordered a new valve cover today and sent to the powdercoater to coat the same color as my supercharger. I will post pics of that when I get it back from him.

Oh... that paint is 1200 degree barbeque grill paint on the intake manifold, lol. High temp just in case.

Ok, so I painted my LSJ header yesterday. I also painted the alternator bracket and the idler pulley bracket.

Also installed custom painted dash pieces that were the same color as my supercharger.

Last of the parts have been purchased. Now I need to make sure I have all of the bolts and schedule with friends to install.

did your buddy ever go over plugging the hole on the blower with you? if so, what was the solution?

did your buddy ever go over plugging the hole on the blower with you? if so, what was the solution?

He was here last night. I measured the whole with a micrometer.. it is .385 inches and 9.75mm. We are getting a differential/trans fluid type plug this week and will tap it and screw in the plug.

I will post pics, etc.

Also working on bolting 1 bar map to the intake manifold this week.

Bolting the map is solo east took e 2 mins to do it, and I have the twist on style

Bolting the map is solo east took e 2 mins to do it, and I have the twist on style

How did you bolt yours on? I ordered the bracket for the one that holds the sensor to the supercharger. I believe I can modify it.

Used a straight piece of aluminum and bolted it down and the aluminum acts as a bracket holding the map down

Ahh I understand now. I ordered the bracket that fits it to the SC. I think I can modify it to fit the intake.

Got my ZZP triple gauge pod in yesterday. I'm not convinced that it is exactly like the stock pillar. The color is off a little bit. Everyone says it is an exact match?

I never liked tan colored pillars, mine r black, is it way off? Or a tad bit

It could be a Cobalt vs G5 type of thing, but most of stuff like that is the same color. My pillar has more of a grayish color tone and this one has a tanish color tone.

I am contemplating painting the pillars the same as my dash trim that I just got done.

I thought the 1Bar MAP just fit in...

I looked up the Cobalt pillar out of curiousity and it is the same part number as mine so the ZZP pillar is just not an exact match, as they proclaim.

The LSJ 1 bar map does not just sit in the LSJ intake manifold. The LSJ 2.5 bar map has a hole in it to screw it down to the manifold. The 1 bar map does not and the pressure would blow it right off the manifold as soon as you start the car.

I received the bracket for the map that holds it to the supercharger on Friday. It looks like I'll be able to easily modify it to work on the LSJ intake manifold. I will post pics when I get to messing around with it this week.

The powerdercoater sent me a picture of my new valve cover. I can't wait to get all of this stuff on!

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/valvecoverpc.jpg

Good luck I think I posted how get the map to stay on, it should be in my thread somewhere, I posted pics of stock map being used in my lsj manifold

i really cant wait for pics of your completed engine bay. I considered doing the black/red engine bay theme myself for a long time. Gave up on it though... Im just running a black valve cover for now

Jn2: I read your thread like 10 times, from front to back, lol and I didn't see it, but I could be wrong. I am going to go out to the garage and work on that MAP sensor issue in a few.

Hunter: Thanks. I can't wait to see my engine bay either. I got the valvecover today, to finally see in person. It is a work of art. I think my engine bay is going to look pretty cool.

Ok.. so for an update, I got my interceptor yesterday, but it is the wrong one. I ordered the CN type and they sent me the PT type.

Ordered the last of the bolts I needed from boltdepot.com (thanks to all).

Got the NGK spark plugs in the mail.

Got some new gaskets to go with my new valve cover.

That should be it for now!

so what bolts did you end up ordering in the end?

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg152/balmung92003/1241013003.jpg

there u go...i cut a hoseopen, than layed it flat, drilled a small hole so the MAP nipple could fit thru, than sat the MAP on the manifold, used a straight piece of aluminum as a bracket, and ran the bolt to hold it down, works fine, the hose i cut up acts like a gasket when pressed down on the manifold

so what bolts did you end up ordering in the end?

I think I finished up my bolts today. I'll show you what I've ordered for myself.

GM Bolts
11900248 – LSJ TB To SC Bolts (4)
11516342 – LSJ Intake Manifold Mount To Block Bolts (2)
11589214 – LSJ Supercharger to Intake Manifold Bolts (4)

Aftermarket bolts
LSJ 1 Bar MAP To Intake Manifold
M6 x 1.0 x 25 (Qty 1)

LSJ Intake Manifold Mount Bracket To Intake Manifold
M10 X 1.50 x 50 (Qty 1)

LSJ Rear IC Pump Bracket To Intake Manifold Mount
M8 X 1.25 X 25 – (Qty 2)

LSJ Front IC Pump Bracket To Rear IC Pump Bracket
M8 X 1.25 X 35 – (Qty 2)

LSJ Idler Pulley To Block
M10 X 1.50 x 75 (Qty 1)

LSJ Idler Pulley To Alternator Bracket
Forget. I will get you the specs.

LSJ Intake Manifold To Block
M6 x 1.0 X 75 (Qty 2)

LSJ Alternator Bracket To Block
M8 X 1.25 X 130 (Qty 3)

LSJ SC Bypass Valve To SC
M8 X 1.25 X 20 (Qty 2)

LSJ Lower Tensioner To Bracket
M8 x 1.25 x 35 (Qty 1)

LSJ Upper Tensioner To Bracket
M8 X 1.25 x 40 (Qty 1)... not standard bolt though. Has to be metric hex socket bolt.



there u go...i cut a hoseopen, than layed it flat, drilled a small hole so the MAP nipple could fit thru, than sat the MAP on the manifold, used a straight piece of aluminum as a bracket, and ran the bolt to hold it down, works fine, the hose i cut up acts like a gasket when pressed down on the manifold

Thanks for the photo. I worked on mine last night and the SCIP sensor bracket worked with some modification. I didn't finish it yet, but I will post pics. I was wondering about making some type of gasket or seal today... and your idea sounds great. I will have to work on that as well.

You, my friend, are awesome!

That is definitely the most complete list of parts I've seen yet!

Especially the bolts!!!

Let us know if you update the list!

Great thread subb'd to keep track of this build.

LOL I sent MP81 my whole parts list. Needless to say it is pretty complete and the most complete list on the internet. I will be posting the whole thing when I'm finished.

Here is the bolt that I didn't have an answer for last night.

LSJ Idler Pulley To Alternator Bracket
M8 x 1.25 x 25

One question before i start throwing money to the wind. how much did you spend on this build? So i can get an estimate on how much im going to need before i get started bc i like to do it all at once rather than a bit at a time.

Figure 2 grand.

if you have a 2.4 (gt) then why you saying lap? the lap is the newer 2.2 from the non gt version

One question before i start throwing money to the wind. how much did you spend on this build? So i can get an estimate on how much im going to need before i get started bc i like to do it all at once rather than a bit at a time.

Right now I'm at $2481.70, but there are a few reasons for that. I bought about $500 in gauges, $89 for a triple gauge pillar.

I am doing the washer bottle conversion so the new washer hose and washer bottle is in there.

Since I have the LAP it has secondary air injection, so I have to put a header on it.. so I decided to buy an LSJ header and LSJ downpipe, so that is another $150 or so.

Also, you can use your stock brake booster hose with some trouble, etc, but I bought the one from the LSJ since I didn't want to mess around.

So, without gauges and all I would say $2000 should be good.... but I powdercoated the supercharger, valve cover, etc so my cost is going to be close to $3000 after tune.

if you have a 2.4 (gt) then why you saying lap? the lap is the newer 2.2 from the non gt version

Mine is a 2009 GT bud. In 2009 they killed the 2.4 engine and I am stuck with the new LAP 2.2... thus why I'm here and doing this project.

Right now I'm at $2481.70, but there are a few reasons for that. I bought about $500 in gauges, $89 for a triple gauge pillar.

I am doing the washer bottle conversion so the new washer hose and washer bottle is in there.

Since I have the LAP it has secondary air injection, so I have to put a header on it.. so I decided to buy an LSJ header and LSJ downpipe, so that is another $150 or so.

Also, you can use your stock brake booster hose with some trouble, etc, but I bought the one from the LSJ since I didn't want to mess around.

So, without gauges and all I would say $2000 should be good.... but I powdercoated the supercharger, valve cover, etc so my cost is going to be close to $3000 after tune.



Mine is a 2009 GT bud. In 2009 they killed the 2.4 engine and I am stuck with the new LAP 2.2... thus why I'm here and doing this project.
so then its not a gt eh???

yeah I'm at 2g's if you throw the tune in there...without I'm about $1700 in parts.

damn thats quite a list of bolts there...I dont think I got any with the parts I bought either so sounds like I'm gonna need them all! hopefully I can avoid getting them from the dealership though!

so then its not a gt eh???

No hes a Gt. 2008 was the last year for the 2.4 LE5. 2009 Gt's have the LAP.

what the heck does the base model run then? or do the base and GT models run the same powertrain?

Right now I'm at $2481.70, but there are a few reasons for that. I bought about $500 in gauges, $89 for a triple gauge pillar.

I am doing the washer bottle conversion so the new washer hose and washer bottle is in there.

Since I have the LAP it has secondary air injection, so I have to put a header on it.. so I decided to buy an LSJ header and LSJ downpipe, so that is another $150 or so.

Also, you can use your stock brake booster hose with some trouble, etc, but I bought the one from the LSJ since I didn't want to mess around.

So, without gauges and all I would say $2000 should be good.... but I powdercoated the supercharger, valve cover, etc so my cost is going to be close to $3000 after tune.



Mine is a 2009 GT bud. In 2009 they killed the 2.4 engine and I am stuck with the new LAP 2.2... thus why I'm here and doing this project.

i have a LSJ header im selling for like 25+shipping...should of said something...

so then its not a gt eh???

Dude it's like you didn't even read what I wrote, lol.

what the heck does the base model run then? or do the base and GT models run the same powertrain?

For 2009 the GT and the standard have the same powertrain! It is very sad, but true!

i have a LSJ header im selling for like 25+shipping...should of said something...

I asked if I could buy one from you as you mentioned you had 2 and you said you didn't have a box :(

Last night i finished up the bracket and all to hold in the LSJ 1 bar map into the intake. I'll get the pics out of the camera later today and post.

For those who say I do not have a GT, lol, here are a couple of photos of my car.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/calipers/car%20002.jpg
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/calipers/car%20004.jpg
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/calipers/car%20005.jpg
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/calipers/car%20007.jpg
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/calipers/car%20008.jpg
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/calipers/car%20010.jpg
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/calipers/car%20012.jpg
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/calipers/car%20013.jpg
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/calipers/car%20014.jpg

ok. So basically im going to have to follow your rout. i have the 2.2 L61. Im trying to do my build/swap off a 2003 or 4 ion redline. i knwo there is going to be more trouble with the MA sensor and all but its going to be cheaper i hope. My old teach has one at the shop that just basically sits there. I was thinking getting about $2000 together. i know ppl so it isnt going to be full price for everything. might have to hit you up on rewiring though lol. Thanks man. ive been looking around to see if someone has done this and you did it right. :twothumbs

car looks nice, and man am i glad i powdercoat myself and dont have to pay;)

ok, i didnt know the gt and base model use the same power train....your title is VERY misleading as NO ONE (save for you aparently) nows this lol

ok. So basically im going to have to follow your rout. i have the 2.2 L61. Im trying to do my build/swap off a 2003 or 4 ion redline. i knwo there is going to be more trouble with the MA sensor and all but its going to be cheaper i hope. My old teach has one at the shop that just basically sits there. I was thinking getting about $2000 together. i know ppl so it isnt going to be full price for everything. might have to hit you up on rewiring though lol. Thanks man. ive been looking around to see if someone has done this and you did it right. :twothumbs

Ok, here are some things to consider.

My price at $2400 is light as I am a GM Parts Dealer and I have bought a ton of new parts for this build and I bought them all at dealer cost, so even a "good guy" or buddy discount is going to be +200 on the GM Parts.

As far as the exhaust. I am doing it for 2 reasons. If you look around on the site there are pics showing the difference in size of the 2.2 and the LSJ downpipes and it adds a lot more output, which is great for the added hp.

The second reason is you could take the tube off that goes to the air pump and block off it at the valve on the exhaust manifold, but I am the type of guy who does things right so I decided to get the exhaust manifold and downpipe.

car looks nice, and man am i glad i powdercoat myself and dont have to pay;)

The powdercoater is a fellow vendor on the Corvette Forum and we refer a lot of business to one another, so it was relatively inexpensive.

ok, i didnt know the gt and base model use the same power train....your title is VERY misleading as NO ONE (save for you aparently) nows this lol

I don't follow you again. My title is Gene's 2.2 LAP Supercharger Build.

My name is Gene.
My engine is a 2.2 LAP
I am adding a supercharger.

Ok, so for some pictures that I have been promising.

To hold down the 1 bar LSJ Map to the intake manifold I am using the bracket that holds the same sensor to the supercharger. The first pic here shows how the bolt hole is off.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/lsjmap-01.jpg

The next pictures just show that I modified the bracket. I also used a piece of shrink wrap, opened up, to use as a gasket to seal it to the intake manifold.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/lsjmap-02.jpg

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/lsjmap-03.jpg

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/lsjmap-04.jpg



I have also painted the LSJ header with 2000 degree paint and baked it in the oven as per the instructions on the can.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/lsj-header-01.jpg



Also, I had my supercharger out today and I figured I'd take another pic, closer up.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/lsj-supercharger-01.jpg

lawl, reading> me
anywho, i dont see how its a gt then...but ok :lol:
maybe thats why pontiac isnt a brand anymore though...they didnt make any sense :lol:

lawl, reading> me
anywho, i dont see how its a gt then...but ok :lol:
maybe thats why pontiac isnt a brand anymore though...they didnt make any sense :lol:

If you look at nearly all recent built cars. Most "GT's GTS's Sport" models are nearly all based on cosmetics and maybe a differnt tune. At least thats what i have come to see so far. If it doesnt say its got a sc or tc its prolly just a plain motor just like the base models put into a nicer looking car. thats saying "most", not all. Ford has their own thing there.

Are spark plugs really nessecary to change, or can I run my stock Iridiums?

you can run stock. I ran my stockers for about a month and didnt notice any issues at all.

Btw, what psi rang is safe for the stock internals on our 2.2? i dont wanna spend 3 grand and blow it in a month, i heard its about 6? Or up to 250 hp

you can run stock. I ran my stockers for about a month and didnt notice any issues at all.

Sweet, one less hassle.

Btw, what psi rang is safe for the stock internals on our 2.2? i dont wanna spend 3 grand and blow it in a month, i heard its about 6? Or up to 250 hp

its more like 11-14 psi for a supercharger. for a turbo its about 6psi, tho there are members running higher than that on stock internals just fine.

The spark plugs was one of my last demons. I bought the NGK's that were suggested on the list, just in case I need them on install day. I really want to use GM plugs as I am a GM man. I saw someone post recently that they are using the LSJ plugs. I think I'll buy a set of LSJ plugs as well so that way on install day I have the NGK's, the LSJ's and my originals.

the spark plugs in the tc that gm uses are rebranded NGK's, but the name says AC Delco even though they're not

get either ac delco or ngk plugs

the thing about LSJ plugs is that they're shorter than stock

they work but I don't know how you would feel about running a plug that is significantly shorter than stock

I got the 1step colder ngk iridiums

its more like 11-14 psi for a supercharger. for a turbo its about 6psi, tho there are members running higher than that on stock internals just fine.


Cool, i just dont wanna blow the thing up. Thanks

the thing about LSJ plugs is that they're shorter than stock

they work but I don't know how you would feel about running a plug that is significantly shorter than stock

well, they work just fine. lol. I ran the stock plugs for a month, then got 1 step colder plugs for the ss/sc and have been running those ever since.

Now I'm all confused on plugs. I bought LSJ plugs today. I have the NGK's suggested on the parts list and then I'll have my stockers!

Are those GM bolts "11516342 – LSJ Intake Manifold Mount To Block Bolts (2)" special or something?

Are those GM bolts "11516342 – LSJ Intake Manifold Mount To Block Bolts (2)" special or something?

No. The reason I bought them from GM is because they didn't list the size in the GM catalog and it wasn't something like the front IC pump to rear IC pump bracket bolts that I could figure out by holding it in my hand, so I ordered them.

im on stock lsj plugs for now, untill the 2.8

im on stock lsj plugs for now, untill the 2.8

Ok, thanks for letting me know. I bought the stock LSJ plugs, so I have 2 sets of plugs to try lol.

No. The reason I bought them from GM is because they didn't list the size in the GM catalog and it wasn't something like the front IC pump to rear IC pump bracket bolts that I could figure out by holding it in my hand, so I ordered them.

Do they seem like a normal size bolt to you? I have no problem ordering them as well, I just want to know if, possibly, I can just buy bolts of the same dimension.

love the pics, subscribed for more

love the pics, subscribed for more

love the pics....subscribed

only bolts i ended up needing to order was the 3 130mm long alternator bolts, the rest i got from autozone, i took in the manifold, the lower bracket, the pump bracket, and all threads are m8x1.25, the lower manifold bracket to manifold itself is a bigger bolt, but if your there, u can size them up as you go, and get the right lenght you know, which common sense would say get a bolt with 1" coming out towards what would be the engine

Do they seem like a normal size bolt to you? I have no problem ordering them as well, I just want to know if, possibly, I can just buy bolts of the same dimension.

They are definitely a normal sized bolt.. just a little long. I'll pull them out today and see what I can do.

love the pics, subscribed for more

love the pics....subscribed

Thanks. Will do.

Casey... can we talk Interceptor?

I got my Interceptor like a week ago and it was the wrong one ( I ordered the right one, was sent the wrong one) and I was browsing around and reading some things.

It appears I can run that from my OBDII port. But I saw some people talking elsewhere, here on the board, that they also hooked it into the lights so that it dimmed at night?

So let me make this a little more complex. I also have a Glow Shift boost gauge and an AEM wideband that will need power as well... and possibly dim at night.

How do you suggest I go about all of this?

i spossibly got a full supercharger kit for sale with stage 2 pulley and maybe header and catless downpipe for anyone wanting to go SC

well, they work just fine. lol. I ran the stock plugs for a month, then got 1 step colder plugs for the ss/sc and have been running those ever since.

like I said, they do "work"...I just feel better off running a plug that is identical to stock, only a step colder. NGK LTR6IX-11 is a good choice, the only downside is they are iridium instead of copper which = $$$

I think I finished up my bolts today. I'll show you what I've ordered for myself.

GM Bolts
11900248 – LSJ TB To SC Bolts (4)
11516342 – LSJ Intake Manifold Mount To Block Bolts (2)
11589214 – LSJ Supercharger to Intake Manifold Bolts (4)


btw, I'll have to find out what bolt sizes these are. I'm only gonna order them from GM if absolutely necessary. The last time I ordered 4 little bolts from a dealership it ran me like $20 bucks

like I said, they do "work"...I just feel better off running a plug that is identical to stock, only a step colder. NGK LTR6IX-11 is a good choice, the only downside is they are iridium instead of copper which = $$$



btw, I'll have to find out what bolt sizes these are. I'm only gonna order them from GM if absolutely necessary. The last time I ordered 4 little bolts from a dealership it ran me like $20 bucks


the TB to supercharger bolts should be same as your stockers... I used my stock bolts same thread and long enough... I am also running an lsj TB

the bolts to intake manifold and it's lower support brackets are 8mm

I'm not positive on the supercharger to intake manifold tho... if someone doesn't answer before I get a chance to look I will...

This is such a good thread. So helpful. and Hunterkiller has answered a bunch of questions for me to. As for your gauge dimming question, what series of glowshift did you get. I been doing research on gauges and I know the elite series from glowshift has a wire that you can hook up to your lights to dim the gauge. If you u have that series of gauge maybe you can use that wire to dim all your gauges.

Also I noticed you have been trying to find a solution to plug the hole on the supercharger where a map sensor goes. I have an install manual that came with a supercharger kit they made for the cavalier and sunfire and this is what they used to plug the hole. metal expansion plug (part number
12593906). Problem here is that part number is not found on gm parts direct. So maybe you can find something out on it since you are a gm dealer. This would help us that will need to plug that hole up. And it should work since it's from gm.

They are definitely a normal sized bolt.. just a little long. I'll pull them out today and see what I can do.



Thanks. Will do.

Casey... can we talk Interceptor?

I got my Interceptor like a week ago and it was the wrong one ( I ordered the right one, was sent the wrong one) and I was browsing around and reading some things.

It appears I can run that from my OBDII port. But I saw some people talking elsewhere, here on the board, that they also hooked it into the lights so that it dimmed at night?

So let me make this a little more complex. I also have a Glow Shift boost gauge and an AEM wideband that will need power as well... and possibly dim at night.

How do you suggest I go about all of this?
well, the interceptors for our cars will not need a separate power line, as they draw their power directly from the OBDII port, so there is no way to attach them to the power line that dims when you dim the dash lights.

As for the other two gauges, I have mine tapped into the ignition wire. The only thing I would worry about when it comes to the dimming line is the possibility that dimming it reduces voltage to the gauge, and being that the wideband interprets the AFR based on the voltage its receiving, it may skew the displayed AFR. I'm not positive about this though, so it might work just fine. It's just something to look out for if you do end up going this route.

As for the glow shift, I'm assuming its mechanical, in which case the voltage recieved will only affect the brightness of the gauge, just like you want, so that one would work fine for sure.

This is such a good thread. So helpful. and Hunterkiller has answered a bunch of questions for me to. As for your gauge dimming question, what series of glowshift did you get. I been doing research on gauges and I know the elite series from glowshift has a wire that you can hook up to your lights to dim the gauge. If you u have that series of gauge maybe you can use that wire to dim all your gauges.

Also I noticed you have been trying to find a solution to plug the hole on the supercharger where a map sensor goes. I have an install manual that came with a supercharger kit they made for the cavalier and sunfire and this is what they used to plug the hole. metal expansion plug (part number
12593906). Problem here is that part number is not found on gm parts direct. So maybe you can find something out on it since you are a gm dealer. This would help us that will need to plug that hole up. And it should work since it's from gm.

Hmm... thanks about the wire on the glowshift. I know that it has some wires as it lights up red at night and can change into 7 colors, etc. Here is a link. I got this one because it had a white faced gauge like my G5's gauges and it has the ability to light up red at night like my G5 as well.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/white-7-color-35psi-boost-vacuum-gauge.aspx

I checked into the part number several weeks ago on the plug for the Cavalier supercharger kit and it isn't available separately.

My friend is going to come over and we're going to tap it and then put in a hex socket plug and call it a day. We just haven't done that yet.

well, the interceptors for our cars will not need a separate power line, as they draw their power directly from the OBDII port, so there is no way to attach them to the power line that dims when you dim the dash lights.

As for the other two gauges, I have mine tapped into the ignition wire. The only thing I would worry about when it comes to the dimming line is the possibility that dimming it reduces voltage to the gauge, and being that the wideband interprets the AFR based on the voltage its receiving, it may skew the displayed AFR. I'm not positive about this though, so it might work just fine. It's just something to look out for if you do end up going this route.

As for the glow shift, I'm assuming its mechanical, in which case the voltage recieved will only affect the brightness of the gauge, just like you want, so that one would work fine for sure.

Casey, I did read in the interceptor manual and when I had the wrong one here, that you can set it up to directly power it yourself. I may end up doing that and just putting them all to the ignition wire then at once.

I assume there is no real big deal about it not dimming at night? I wouldn't want my wideband to not be accurate because of how it is hooked up.

As far as powering my gauges, I guess I can have just one wire running to the ignition wire and splice the three into the one going to the ignition wire?

yea, that would be fine. Make sure the wire is a slightly thicker gauge if you do it that way, but the gauges dont require a lot of current, so small gauge wire would still work fine.

As for reading about the separate powering for the interceptors, that is how the ss/sc interceptors must be powered, as they cannot pull power from the OBDII port. the 2.2 Interceptor however does pull power. Im not sure what hooking up the additional powerline will do.

For the dimming, well...I like mine being full bright all the time...works great for me. I'll grab a picture tonight if I can :)

Thanks for your input. They just give you the option to power it yourself if you want to do it that way. I was reading last night in the how-to section and they tell you how to make a new wire setup from the fuse block inside the car to power the gauges, so I might do that. I don't know how I feel about the Interceptor turning off at different times other than the other 2. That is kind of weird. I'm a picky individual, and that would bother me, so I'll probably just run a new wire and power all three at once.

Besides, I leave my car in the garage sometimes for a week without driving it and I don't want to have to plug and unplug the Interceptor, as they tell you to unplug if you're not driving it. So, it sounds as if the new wire may be ok with me.

MP81, I will certainly check on the bolts today for you.

I was also telling you guys about the ZZP triple gauge pod not matching perfectly and I've been trying to figure out how to handle that. On the G5 board someone took fabric paint and painted their A-pillars and their headliner black. I bought some fabric paint on Friday night and I removed my passenger A-pillar last night and am going to give that a try. Since I'm a dealer, I found that the passenger side is only like $18 so if I ruin it that will not be very costly.

Ok... MP81.

The intake manifold mount to block bolts are exactly M8x1.25x61.9 MM.. lol... so you could use 60 or 65. I'm sure the 60's would be fine.

I have a slight issue... Casey? Can you help me. I may be able to figure out quite a few things, lol, but this one I am stumped. I have never done it before.

How to I put my gauges in my gauge pod? I have the glowshift boost gauge and the AEM wideband and I don't seem to be able to get them into my triple gauge pod properly. WTF... what am I to do? lol.

lol. Well, for starters, the AEM wideband is an oversized gauge. It is the standard 52mm (or w/e) that gauges are, but the front cover section causes the diameter at the end to be a bit larger. The solution is to (very carefully) dremel out just enough extra room from the A pillar to fit the gauge in flush. If i remember correctly, it was the top section that needed the most dremeling to make it fit. Since you are painting your A-pillar, you might want to do this before painting.

Both gauges should have some piece of plastic or metal on the back that screws in with 2 nuts. First you run the wires to the A pillar so you can reach them, then you put the gauges into the front of the A pillar (before installing the A pillar). Once the gauge is in, you screw that plastic/metal piece into the gauge from the back of the A pillar. That will hold the gauge in place. Then you plug in or make whatever connections are necessary for your gauges, and install the A pillar. I hope that helps.

Well I've had some more time to play around with it since then. Here is what I think happened.

I bought the ZZP triple gauge pod, so the first hole (bottom) is enough to insert the AEM wideband gauge and then screw on the bezel. That one is ok.

The one I was trying to install was my GlowShift boost gauge and I believe this gauge is the issue. Am I right in saying that most gauges have a screw on bezel so you can install the gauge and then screw on the bezel?

My GlowShift gauge bezel cannot be screwed off because it has a button in the center of the bezel to change the colors, etc. It is actually press fitted and clamped on.

When I see other people with the ZZP triple gauge pod, they have not modified the pillar, so this leads me to believe the autometer series, etc, have screw on bezels.

I actually ruined my ZZP triple gauge pod from trying to smash the GlowShift boost gauge in there. I'm pissed, lol.

I decided today that since the color was not that far off, I wasn't going to paint it.

So can anyone tell me if the autometer gauges bezels screw on and off? Twist... I should say. I ordered one, so I hope so.

my bezel doesnt screw on or off. You just slide it in..lol

Dude that isn't what I wanted to hear at all. There is no way I'd be able to push the gauge in without ruining my pillar. Maybe the Autometer bezel is a different size than the GlowShift because I see a lot of people using the Autometer gauges with this pod and the ZZP site says it will fit Autometer gauges so let's hope so.

u have a pic of the glowshift gauge? and im assuming its the standard size diameter?

u have a pic of the glowshift gauge? and im assuming its the standard size diameter?

Well, it is the 2 1/6 or whatever, 52mm... after screwing around with it 4 times today I decided to get it out again and test it.

It appears you cannot just push the gauge straight down. You have to push it down far enough to get the back of the gauge through the hole in the pillar, then push down on the top of the gauge in the front, to start to get the gauge in sideways... and then when it clears the area on the pillar where it contacts you can push it down straight again.

I ordered another gauge for nothing, lol.

P.S. Thank you for helping me Casey.

haha
any time dude. glad you figured everything out

I'm not positive on the supercharger to intake manifold tho... if someone doesn't answer before I get a chance to look I will...

Go for it :thumb:

so is this done yet?

What type of coolant are you guys using? Any additives, is it different for the engine than the heat exchanger circuit?

LOL Jn2. No man... I'm still getting stuff together, painting stuff.. etc. I still have to work on the hole in the supercharger, no big deal, and some other odds and ends. I had to paint my ZZP heat exchanger over the weekend because they sent me one with the gay logo on it. Then I have to schedule with a couple of friends. I still have to get the cable coming yet so I can get the original tune logged for Vince to tune for me.

MP81... I am going to use Dexcool for that system. Most others do as well.

What type of coolant are you guys using? Any additives, is it different for the engine than the heat exchanger circuit?

dexcool coolant. For the HE system, i just used water and water wetter, but of course here in socal, the coldest it got this winter was like 34*, so I dont need to worry about the water freezing in the system, so I dont add antifreeze. Actually even my engine cooling system is probably a 2/3 water, 1/3 dexcool mix now, instead of the regular 50/50. But anywhere that has freezing temperatures during the winter (most places) should run a 50/50 of water and dexcool, and add a bottle of water wetter if you like.

Ok, so I ordered another ZZP triple gauge pod and I got the correct Interceptor today. If I have time this weekend and I get all of my stuff together maybe I'll wire up the Interceptor. I want to know how much HP it has stock.

first time i looked at this thread and i have to say i love the supercharger it looks amazing in red.

first time i looked at this thread and i have to say i love the supercharger it looks amazing in red.

Thanks for your comment. I certainly appreciate it.

What type of coolant are you guys using? Any additives, is it different for the engine than the heat exchanger circuit?

for the heat exchange circuit royal purple makes a coolant that you can use.

How much coolant will be needed? I was talking to Gene over the phone, and he pointed out that I probably won't lose that much from the engine, if I'm careful.

How much will the heat exchanger circuit hold?

I'm looking at something like this as a reservoir: http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=IDN&MfrPartNumber=MCR3&CategoryCode=3052

the engine wont lose a lot.... the HE system will require more than the engine will. (i dont know volumes...i filled everything back up with glasses of water.... lol)

About how much did you use for the H/E circuit?

Yours is going to be smaller and the ZZP I'm going to use says 1.8 liters so the Cobra can't be that much.

So a gallon should be plenty?

I would honestly get 2 gallons for the job, or if the place is close get 1 and then go back if you need another.

I can walk to the store in 5 minutes, and I have my parents cars, Maybe I'll grab one for each - the engine and the HE circuit, and go from there. Water Wetter in both? I'm gonna run 50/50 in the H/E cause it gets nipply here in the winter.

Just added the zzp h/e inline with the stock h/e on my 2.4 and used a lil more than 3/4 of a gallon of coolant after bleeding the system of air. So, 1 gal should be enough, imo.

I'm not familiar with how to bleed the Heat Exchanger/circuit...is it easy?

I just filled the system through the reservoir as much as possible, ran car for 30 sec, shut off car, refilled reservoir, and repeated until coolant was continuously flowing through the reservoir. Did this 5 or 6 times , then kept a bottle of coolant in my car for the next day or two as it was obviously still bleeding air out cause I had to refill the reservoir a few more times. I'm sure i could have used the bleeder screw on the top of the stock h/e to speed up the process, but oh well. Oh and the zzp h/e was NOT a direct fit on my 2.4without grinding some material to get the tabs to reach the bolts behind the crash bar.

How are you guys wiring the H/E Pump? Directly to a switched Fuse?

11589214 – LSJ Supercharger to Intake Manifold Bolts (4)


M6 x 1 x 20, 17.5 THD, 14.2 O.D.

did some searching and found this on ecotec forums

I just filled the system through the reservoir as much as possible, ran car for 30 sec, shut off car, refilled reservoir, and repeated until coolant was continuously flowing through the reservoir. Did this 5 or 6 times , then kept a bottle of coolant in my car for the next day or two as it was obviously still bleeding air out cause I had to refill the reservoir a few more times. I'm sure i could have used the bleeder screw on the top of the stock h/e to speed up the process, but oh well. Oh and the zzp h/e was NOT a direct fit on my 2.4without grinding some material to get the tabs to reach the bolts behind the crash bar.

Thanks for this information. I was wondering how to handle the bleeding part. I am going to use the ZZP H/E and another stock coolant reservoir, so I'll probably make out a little better since it can hold more.

How are you guys wiring the H/E Pump? Directly to a switched Fuse?

One of the how to's said to tie it in with your fuel pump fuse. If fuel pump is on and running you need the IC pump.

M6 x 1 x 20, 17.5 THD, 14.2 O.D.

did some searching and found this on ecotec forums

LOL... that is not correct at all. It is so far off that I really had to laugh. I'll see what I can do for you... but two things here.

The bolts are the hex socket type ... and they are much, much longer as they go through the SC, into the intake and then pretty far down into the intake manifold.

I would say they are at least 50 MM.

How are you guys wiring the H/E Pump? Directly to a switched Fuse?

power wire on the fuel pump fuse, ground wire somewhere on the frame

One of the how to's said to tie it in with your fuel pump fuse. If fuel pump is on and running you need the IC pump.

power wire on the fuel pump fuse, ground wire somewhere on the frame

Thank you, sirs.

Supercharger to intake manifold bolts are hex socket type, M8 x 1.25 x 50.

Supercharger to intake manifold bolts are hex socket type, M8 x 1.25 x 50.

Beautiful now I can get them. One question. If i get these from a bolt company with they be able to stand high temps

LOL... that is not correct at all. It is so far off that I really had to laugh. I'll see what I can do for you...


I thought that was oddly small but thats all I could find.

http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=77149&postcount=3


ahhh actually my bad...I mixed up the last 2 numbers of the p/n lol...anyway. thanks for the real size. :lol:

Doesn't have to be a hex bolt...I used

M8x1.25mm double sided stud x2
M8x1.25mm 55mm flared bolt x2
M8x1.25mm flared nuts x2

Works fine, and are easily found at Autozone or other parts stores

Beautiful now I can get them. One question. If i get these from a bolt company with they be able to stand high temps

I fail to not be able to understand the link between a bolt and temperature? Bolts are rated by hardness (strength) and temperature is not one of those variables.

I thought that was oddly small but thats all I could find.

http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=77149&postcount=3


ahhh actually my bad...I mixed up the last 2 numbers of the p/n lol...anyway. thanks for the real size. :lol:

Np man.

Doesn't have to be a hex bolt...I used

M8x1.25mm double sided stud x2
M8x1.25mm 55mm flared bolt x2
M8x1.25mm flared nuts x2

Works fine, and are easily found at Autozone or other parts stores

I understand. I'm pretty much a factory type guy and I wanted them to be the same as factory.

btw if anyone has a Lowes where they live...go there for bolts. much larger selection than AutoZone/Checkers/Pep Boys and Home Depot :thumb:

I'm probably gonna go to my local hardware store - they have a huge bolt department.

As far as Lowe's... I went to a couple of different one's (Lowes) and they didn't have the M6 x 75's or the M8 X 130's...

I went to quite a bit of local stores, including national chains and some mom and pops stores and no one had those. I even had my wife ask at some of these places with her new boobs on display and the workers worked their ass off for her trying to find them (so they could keep her around a while) and nada... so even asking at these places didn't help. All I had around me were a bunch of tarts hanging around to see my wife's boobs... lol... I just had to say that... it was really funny though.

I am going to attempt to install my interceptor and my other gauges today... as far as wiring goes.. so when I get to install day I can just hook up the vacuum line to the boost gauge and the sensor to the AEM wideband.

It will be interesting to see how much HP it says I currently have, bone stock, lol.

Oh, PS, that is the reason why I ordered the rest of the bolts I needed from boltdepot.com. It only took me like 2 days to get them from them. Very good service for a great price.

Just got all the rest of my bolts I needed from our independent hardware store, they're VERY good (always voted best independent in Detroit). They even had the M6x75s. I didn't check if they had M8x130s, but I bet they did, but I already had them.

How much heater hose should I get?

Ok, I didn't get to do the Interceptor thing because I forgot about going to my mom's college graduation (bachelors this time)... so I will do it today.

Here is the amount of heater hose they tell you to get in the how-to... I haven't gotten it yet.

10ft. x ¾” I.D. Hose
10ft x ¼” I.D. Hose
4ft. x ½” I.D. Hose

Woah...what are the 1/4" and 1/2" hose used for?

1/4" is for option B if you have the stock HE or if your aftermarket one has a 1/4" bleeder nipple on it
no clue why he's getting 1/2" though

I'm gonna be running a Cobra H/E and an extra coolant tank from Murray's...

I should only need the 3/4?

correct

Very informative thread.

I'm not getting the 1/4 or 1/2... that is just what was in the original parts list. I guess I shall only need 3/4.

Casey... wtf on the Interceptor dude..lol. It took me a while today to do all the wiring for all of my gauges (professional looking) and after messing around with it after I got it going the Interceptor is telling me I have like 6 HP at idle, lol. Sure, I rev it up and stuff and it tells me like 35 HP.... this is funny.

The manual says it bases the HP calculation off air flow and average MPG... and since I disconnected my battery (lost my 28.6 avg previously) my dic says that I am at around 8MPG because I just took the car up the street, bout 1/2 mile, to the Wawa to get gas.

I wonder if this number will get better after the fuel economy starts to average out?

Also, how can you tell you have 265 and the numbers seem to go so fast I wouldn't ever know what the top number was.

After all the work I did today, this was a disappointment. lol.

I didn't 100% get everything situated behind the pillar because I still have to hook up the hose for the boost for the SC and the UEGO wideband sensor and all. There is a slight vibration behind the pillar at a certain RPM... but I'm sure I'll get that fixed.

All of the gauges turn on and turn off, etc, when I turn the key on and off. I had to modify the ZZP pillar a little in the back where the AEM UEGO goes, but that is ok, I guess. It just added some time to my wiring job today.

Oh well, Casey, if you could help me I would appreciate it

H E L P.

drive it more?...

Anyone have a hose routing or something for this install?

There was a routing diagram in Beck's or Hunters. I'm going to have to find it.

Update:... looked at some routing diagrams and I think I'm in trouble on this. I better get it figured out by Friday. I am using just an additional coolant tank with the ZZP H/E and I don't see a routing digram for that!

So my build update:

Received the tuning cable and all from Vince today.

My friend came over tonight and we plugged the SC hole. All we did was use a 7/16 tap (without drilling) and installed a 7/16 allen hex socket plug. I will post pics. I installed the 3.0 polished pulley and changed the SC oil. I measured it exactly and 4 oz came out... but this was without taking the snout off.

My friend says he has Saturday to spend with me so it looks like Saturday I'm going to start the install!

Casey... where are you?? Need help with my interceptor and your phone number for the install this weekend!

Anyone have a hose routing or something for this install?

which diagram do you need specifically?

evap?

coolant/he/resevior?

I have alldatapro if anyone needs diagrams just let me know which ones specifically and I will post them in the tech section or here...

http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc326/slvr05ls22/119115985.gif
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc326/slvr05ls22/119116010.gif

samples of the diagrams...

I really appreciate your kindness, but that isn't what I need. I am actually a GM employee so I have access to the GM service manuals online.

Now I'm worried about the hose routing diagram. I don't have a stock Cobalt H/E. I have the ZZP H/E so I'm going to be looking for the routing diagram for the H/E, IC Pump and intake manifold. I'm fugged. lol.

It should still be the same, just to a different H/E.

Ok here's another update.

I got the wideband bung welded into the LSJ DP.

I figured out the hose routing last night from looking at a ZZP diagram. Don't forget I am using the ZZP H/E so it won't have any small nipple on it for anything. Today I decided to overnight the few items it took to do the stock SC coolant setup... with the small reservoir attached to the SC and the formed hoses from the intake manifold to the SC reservoir and the intake manifold to the IC pump.

It will look more factory now.

Here is the original ZZP diagram I looked at.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/hoserouting1.bmp


Here is the modified diagram of what it will look like without the stock H/E and using only the ZZP H/E.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/geneshoserouting.jpg




Also, here is the promised photo of the hex socket plug in the MAP sensor hole in the SC. It was really simple. You can see some teflon tape around it still.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/scplug-01.jpg

I suppose that diagram should work for me, as well.

I'm not getting the 1/4 or 1/2... that is just what was in the original parts list. I guess I shall only need 3/4.

Casey... wtf on the Interceptor dude..lol. It took me a while today to do all the wiring for all of my gauges (professional looking) and after messing around with it after I got it going the Interceptor is telling me I have like 6 HP at idle, lol. Sure, I rev it up and stuff and it tells me like 35 HP.... this is funny.

The manual says it bases the HP calculation off air flow and average MPG... and since I disconnected my battery (lost my 28.6 avg previously) my dic says that I am at around 8MPG because I just took the car up the street, bout 1/2 mile, to the Wawa to get gas.

I wonder if this number will get better after the fuel economy starts to average out?

Also, how can you tell you have 265 and the numbers seem to go so fast I wouldn't ever know what the top number was.

After all the work I did today, this was a disappointment. lol.

I didn't 100% get everything situated behind the pillar because I still have to hook up the hose for the boost for the SC and the UEGO wideband sensor and all. There is a slight vibration behind the pillar at a certain RPM... but I'm sure I'll get that fixed.

All of the gauges turn on and turn off, etc, when I turn the key on and off. I had to modify the ZZP pillar a little in the back where the AEM UEGO goes, but that is ok, I guess. It just added some time to my wiring job today.

Oh well, Casey, if you could help me I would appreciate it

sorry dude I was on a camping trip this week. just got back today.

mmmk.. so, I typically see 3-4hp at idle. Thats about normal. As im sure you figured out now, it doesnt show peak HP, it shows the amount of HP the motor is making at that instant. I was unaware that it used MPG as a factor in HP, but if it does, then yea, your's should change, as theyre a tad off from mine.

you can see where it peaks better when doing a 3rd gear pull (especially when its only a 4speed:)) Its still an approximation, but its definitely mid 260's

If any of the gauges are too loose, use some teflon tape. Worked for me :). Of course, if the rattling is behind the pillar, its probably a wire that just needs to be pulled tight, or taped if it cant be pulled.

I'll PM you my number now

I don't have mine yet, but reading the downloadable manual from aeroforce leads me to believe that you can record a pull as well, allowing you to watch your run after its over. This would make finding your instantaneous max hp much easier if this function works on the 2.2/2.4 interceptor.

I suppose that diagram should work for me, as well.

thats more or less how it should be ran...although I'd recommend getting rid of that stock filler neck and running an actual reservoir instead

I am. I'm getting a cheap reservoir from Murray's. They're like $10 or $20...

This one, in fact:

http://www.id-usa.com/product.asp?CID=5&PID=164

sorry dude I was on a camping trip this week. just got back today.

mmmk.. so, I typically see 3-4hp at idle. Thats about normal. As im sure you figured out now, it doesnt show peak HP, it shows the amount of HP the motor is making at that instant. I was unaware that it used MPG as a factor in HP, but if it does, then yea, your's should change, as theyre a tad off from mine.

you can see where it peaks better when doing a 3rd gear pull (especially when its only a 4speed:)) Its still an approximation, but its definitely mid 260's

If any of the gauges are too loose, use some teflon tape. Worked for me :). Of course, if the rattling is behind the pillar, its probably a wire that just needs to be pulled tight, or taped if it cant be pulled.

I'll PM you my number now

You're not allowed to leave us, lol. You don't have any vacation time from here dude. LOL. So fun picking on you.

I didn't think the cars only had that little HP at idle, but I guess makes sense. I just read the manual online again and I believe I was mistaken. I was looking at the HP adjustment thing and it said you can adjust the HP rating and the MPG rating, but it doesn't say the MPG has anything to do with the HP. Sorry about that.

I didn't do any 3rd gear pulls or anything as I just ran down the street to get gas. The gauges don't SEEM to be loose, but they could be. There are some loose wires back there because I still have to remove it again to install the boost line and the wiring for the wideband... then I'll tidy all up.

I did receive your number... thank you!

I don't have mine yet, but reading the downloadable manual from aeroforce leads me to believe that you can record a pull as well, allowing you to watch your run after its over. This would make finding your instantaneous max hp much easier if this function works on the 2.2/2.4 interceptor.

Unfortunately HP isn't one of those though :(

PERFORMANCE. This selection will allow you to measure 0-60 mph (100
Km/hr in the metric version), 1/8 mile and ¼ mile performance with speed.

thats more or less how it should be ran...although I'd recommend getting rid of that stock filler neck and running an actual reservoir instead

I bought a second reservoir that looks like stock, but it won't look stock the way the hoses have to run. I want it to look as stock as possible. There really is no advantage of a larger reservoir other than to have extra fluid available.

There really is no advantage of a larger reservoir other than to have extra fluid available.

That is the point ;)

just so you know, you'll need a 3/4" T fitting if you wont be using the stock filler neck

That is the point ;)

just so you know, you'll need a 3/4" T fitting if you wont be using the stock filler neck

Why's that?

Why's that?

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg152/balmung92003/hoses.jpg

^^thats why...

yep, that is exactly how mine is ran.

So I put my guage pillar on. I was kinda upset my Auto Meter gauge doesn't use the mounting back plate like in the 1-pod SS/SC pillar...it's a tight fit, but I can spin it. Is that how it's supposed to go in?

u need to use the black plastic thing that is held on by the 2 studs on the actual gauge, it should of came with little tightening nuts, i have yet to see a gauge w/out them, even the ebay ones use them

Yeah - I used it in my SS/SC pillar - but you can't use it on this pillar, it hits the a-pillar itself!

Ok... here's an update. Things weren't too good today. It is not good to be the test goat (2009 LAP secondary air injection (SAI) engine).

Got up yesterday morning and took off the front bumper cover. Casey's how-to on this was very good. My headlight bucket bracket was a little different, but I was easily able to figure it out. I also had to remove some pins at the top of my bumper that I didn't see mentioned in his how-to but that could be because mine is a Pontiac.




http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/scinstall-01.jpg

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/scinstall-02.jpg




I then removed the stock air box, etc. I removed the intake manifold, TB, etc. Then I decided to stop for breakfast. Wife got up at this point, lol.



http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/scinstall-03.jpg




Friend came over so we got to it. Started stripping things off the engine like the coils, fuel rail, etc. Started removing all of the SAI components. Removed the SAI tubing and switching from the back. Removed the exhaust manifold and down pipe. When we got the exhaust manifold and down pipe off we got a little surprise.

There is a tube connected to the back of my cylinder head that has open ports and the cylinder head has ports for this thing in the back!! This is not on any other year SAI vehicle except for my 2009!! Here is a picture of that tube in a diagram. I was going to take a photo but my friend put it back on before I could get to.



http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/09g5cylheadsai.jpg



It looks like this when the manifold is bolted up...the holes in the gaskets show you where this tube goes on the back of the head.



http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/scinstall-04.jpg



I quickly realized that I may have to use the stock exhaust and leave the SAI tubing and switch in the back and wouldn't be able to use the LSJ exhaust manifold or down pipe. After sitting for a few minutes and thinking about it... I decided that I could probably modify the LSJ exhaust manifold to accept this tube.

This picture shows where those holes in the gasket to accept the tube should be on my LSJ exhaust maninfold.



http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/scinstall-05.jpg




So I took my red paint pen and outlined it on the LSJ exhaust manifold.



http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/scinstall-06.jpg



Here is the finished LSJ exhaust manifold ready to accept the SAI tube bolted to the back of the cyl head. Should have taken a different picture because it is showing black where I cut it out. It took me 1 1/2 hours of using my grinder, dremel with a diamond bit, etc, to get this to work.



http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/scinstall-07.jpg



The LSJ exhaust manifold and down pipe are now installed. My rear 02 sensor wouldn't come out of my pipe, so I have to buy a new one tomorrow. I also had to modify the LSJ exhaust manifold heat shield because it wouldn't fit because of that tube behind the cyl head.

I also had a couple of other issues.

I bought the LSJ eninge lift bracket so I could use the pulley boys tension relief tool. Well, when I went to install the alternator bracket to the block it wouldn't fit properly because the engine lift bracket needed to be modified to fit. So I put on my fabricator and modification hat again and I cut out the engine lift bracket so that I would be able to use that on my car with the alternator bracket.

I then decided to test fit the intake manifold. Believe it or not, this didn't go well either. After playing around with it for 30 - 40 minutes... I thought I was going to have to be a fabricator and modifier again... but it will only require slight modification.

If you look in Hunters how-to his starter has a wire with a red boot on the side of the starter. My wire and red boot is on top of the starter, thus not allowing the intake to fully sit down, so with a little bit more modification on the wire and bracket that holds the wire to the starter that will be behind me.

Here is Hunters pic of intake manifold out and starter and wire and all. The red boot and wire that is on the side of his starter is on the top on mine, thus not allowing the intake manifold to fully sit down.



http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/hunterkiller89/108.jpg



After that it was over 12 hours and I had enough of the problems and the fabrication so I decided to call it a day. Today is Father's day so it isn't a good day to work on my car. I will go back at it this week. I'll see if I can get some better engine bay pics. Sorry about that.

damn dude...your install sounds like mine lol

when you're the first you're gonna run into some unexpected issues...just keep that grinder close.

yeah mine was about 22 hours

wow why are you modding the LSJ header? you cant just delete the SAI completely? or are those ports on the actual head? good luck with everything, as a 1 man team my install took ~10hrs including lunch

damn dude...your install sounds like mine lol

when you're the first you're gonna run into some unexpected issues...just keep that grinder close.

Yeah, definitely some unexpected issues !!

yeah mine was about 22 hours

That sounds about right if you're doing things right!

wow why are you modding the LSJ header? you cant just delete the SAI completely? or are those ports on the actual head? good luck with everything, as a 1 man team my install took ~10hrs including lunch

You are a skimmer if I remember correctly, lol. On all of the other SAI systems, the SAI stuff is on the exhaust manifold. On mine it is both on the exhaust manifold and coming out of the back of the head.

If I were completely 100% to remove it, I'd have to get a cylinder head! So, I'm just going to fabricate a block off plate for that tubing system.

Out of my approximate 11 hour day yesterday, 3 or more was dedicated to fabrication, lol.

Oh yeah... the bolts on my intake are way too long to use washers or anything to take up the remaining space. They are probably 10 - 15 mm too long. Have to get new intake bolts tomorrow.

Which bolts? The long ones?

well, if it makes you feel better, my install time was 3 weeks since i didn't have any instructions or anything...lol
mostly waiting on parts to arrive, but there were at least two 14 hour days, and numerous little 2-3 hour days here and there...along with a lot of fabrication/attempted fabrication

Which bolts? The long ones?

There are 4 bolts on the IM aside from the 2 you're referring to that need to be replaced. The stock ones are too long so if u pick up 4 bolts the same size as stock but about 10mm shorter you should be good to go.

Also don't worry Gene, my install took about 3 days and then I spent the next 7 days troubleshooting :lol:

So what size...M6x1.0x?

I dont remember the size off hand sorry...I'm positive all of those bolts are m6x1.0 but dont remember the length. You'll likely have to take a bolt off and take it into the store with you and get one thats slightly shorter.

Gene, what bolts did you use?

I ended up buying M6x1.0x25, since the stockers were 35mm long (to the end of the thread - end of the bolt was like 37 or something)

well, if it makes you feel better, my install time was 3 weeks since i didn't have any instructions or anything...lol
mostly waiting on parts to arrive, but there were at least two 14 hour days, and numerous little 2-3 hour days here and there...along with a lot of fabrication/attempted fabrication

That does make me feel better, lol. HEY! We are fellow fabricators now, lol. :lol:

There are 4 bolts on the IM aside from the 2 you're referring to that need to be replaced. The stock ones are too long so if u pick up 4 bolts the same size as stock but about 10mm shorter you should be good to go.

Also don't worry Gene, my install took about 3 days and then I spent the next 7 days troubleshooting :lol:

Oh no... if I have to finally get all of this together and then troubleshoot I'm going to be mad!

I ended up buying M6x1.0x25, since the stockers were 35mm long (to the end of the thread - end of the bolt was like 37 or something)

Sorry man... wasn't on the computer.

The GM catalog states the stock bolts are M6x1.0x38. Last night I purchased M6x1.0.25mm and all seems well.

As an update... I was working on installing the intake but decided my 6mm washers were not wide enough to cover the 8mm holes from the stock LSJ. Went to Home Depot and got new bolts and washers. Decided to work on mounting the IC pump, working on the wiring for that and I cut the bracket off my dipstick.

Going to go back at it tomorrow night as I had to mow grass tonight and do some stuff for my business tonight!

Ok, so tonight I start to work on wiring up the IC pump... in the middle of that and had to take a 1 hour business call. Got that taken care of and finished the IC pump wiring and took care of adding the corrugated tubing around all of the wires on it.

I start working on the intake manifold. As I mentioned the other day, my washers were not wide enough in the first place. When I would go to tighten, it would try and suck up the washer in the hole.

So went to Home Depot the other day and got much wider washers. Tonight I torque all of the intake manifold bolts first round to 10 ft lbs. I go to do the second round at 18 ft lbs and something didn't feel right, so I stopped. Tried to do the next one at 13ft lbs, up from 10 and it wouldn't work.....

So now... the wider fuggin washers are apparently standard grade.. and over 10ft lbs starts to crush those bastads!

Now I have go out and find hardened washers so the darn things don't cave in. What gives??

LOL.

lol, sounds like a pain in the ass dude.

It is a pain in the ass.

So I did quite a bit of research this morning.

The LSJ has 8mm bolts in the intake accepting 18ft lbs.
The LAP and some of the others have 6mm bolts and only accepting 89 inch lbs (7.451 ft lbs).

So, I was near the limit of breaking the bolts. LOL.

Tonight when I go to work on it I will torque to 89 inch lbs and move on about my business.

I'm glad mine rounded off before 18...

Tonight was a good night for me... YESS finally.

The new washers were a little thicker and did not budge. Instead of the 89 inch lbs I did 10ft lbs. All seems well and the intake manifold is now bolted in its new home.

As far as wiring my intercooler... last night I put the ground wire where the alternator wire was moved to and the starter ground... all in one place.

I also mentioned yesterday we took the power wire up the starter cable and in that corrugated tubing to the fuse block. I drilled a really small hole (just enough to get 16 gauge wire in) the side of the fuse block bottom cover and ran the wire to the top of the fuse block.

In looking at the service manual, the 15 amp fuel pump fuse below the fuel pump relay is not energized until the fuel pump relay is... so I tapped into that fuse using a "add a circuit" They have an ATM or ATC type. Our fuses are the ATM type. I inserted this into the fuel pump fuse thingy and then added 2 10 amp fuses. I tested the pump tonight and it works fine. I got this at AutoZone tonight.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/215S4sj7FhL._SL500_AA192_.jpg



My tensioner bolt, alternator bracket and idler installed flawlessly. Very fast!! My tensioner pulley does just about rub on the side of the block where the lift bracket was, so that will be grinded off on Saturday.

As far as the washer pump wiring.... there is a corrugated tube running along the top of the radiator mounting panel and it goes from side to side... which looks like my fog lamp wires and all run to. I am thinking of running my washer wiring through there now as it dumps off right into the new washer bottle location.

If not, it looks like I can just wire tie more of the corrugated tubing to the existing (side by side) and run a whole new wiring setup... so no big deal.

I will take pics... but I was working in my garage and it is dark out... and even though my garage is well lit (can lighting) the pics probably wouldn't come out well.

Can take pics of my fuse block and all.

Glad to hear you made some decent progress today!

I keep forgetting to get more washer hose.

Well, last night wasn't too bad... lol. Spent lots of time talking with Kyle on his problem with the supercharger pulley hitting the radiator support. He scared me with this, lol, so I test fitted mine and I can wrap my whole hand around it. I have maybe 3 inches between the pulley and rad support. I'll take pics if I can.

I installed the new washer bottle. I then moved the wiring from left to right. I cut the washer pump connector near the rad support and ran new wiring and put it into some of the corrugated tubing and ran it along the top of the radiator support where there other tubing is. I will take pics of this, but it looks totally factory. Got the wife to hit the button real quick and the pump pumps, so I'm good.

I was test fitting my new LSJ air intake and I snapped one of the tabs off. I'm pissed! This thing looked brand new. Oh well, I plan on putting a cold air intake on it, so that will get rid of the issue. It will still work and noone will see it, but it bothers me. I'm going to try some epoxy on it today just to see if I can put the tab back.

I then started to try and move the MAF connector and start to disassemble the harness in order to do so. I spent about 30 minutes and then got snagged. My MAF wires are tangled in with the other wires and I cannot move it any further. My friend is coming later this afternoon (GM tech) and knows how to re-pin, so he'll take the pins out and wires out and we'll continue to do so. On mine, it is a big job to tear the harness apart, but I'll do it, lol.

Today I'll put my powdercoated valve cover on. I'll grind down my block where the old engine lift bracket is to accept the LSJ tensioner. I'll probably rewire my throttle body and try to install the air intake again. Depending on how much work gets done today, I may fire her up in the next couple of days.

Yeah, my MAF wires were sort of tangled with the others, but it was very easy to still get them out...

^^ same as MP81. Was a hassle, but they eventually came untangled

yeah untagling them sucks, i only did as much as i needed to...fuck thats hit, spent a good 10mins on that

^^ same as MP81. Was a hassle, but they eventually came untangled

Well, it is really hard to explain, but maybe I can take a picture. Since there are what, 5 or 6 wires... I got to a certain point and 3 of the wires are in one spot and 2 of the other wires are in another in the harness. I can maybe move one of the connectors that are in the way, but then it is just in the way of the othe 2 or 3.

100% on my setup I'll either have to cut the wires and or take out the pins and untangle and move on.

Today was not a bad day at all. I installed the new valve cover, new valve cover gasket, coil packs, spark plugs, etc.

I mounted the ZZP H/E.

On my issue where the front engine lift bracket bosses were coming into contact with the tensioner, I decided to get out my angle grinder with the rough cleaning disks that you would use to clean up a manifold surface or something. Since I have a small compressor it was easy to fire it up and grind it down a little bit. It is done very evenly and doesn't appear that it was ever messed with... but there were small shavings all of the place, but I used the air chuck to blow it all out of the way and all of the important stuff was covered with a towel.

I then mounted the tensioner and alternator. I then did about 1/2 the plumbing for the H/E. I am using the stock LSJ supercharger cooler reservoir, but I was going to use my second stock reservoir that I purchased in addition for extra cooling. My additional stock reservoir doesn't mount properly on the passenger side, so I must have to purchase a cobalt ss reservoir?

Casey can you help me out with that?

I then mounted the supercharger, but didn't torque it yet in case I have to remove it. I need to get pictures of some of this stuff.

I now need to rewire the TB, get the MAF sensor wiring fixed, mount the stock air intake, add the hose to my boost gauge, add the wideband wire from the sensor to my gauge.. and do the other half the H/E routing and maybe add the second reservoir.

Time is short tomorrow so I may just do the belt and some other small things.

With the cool powdercoated supercharger and valve cover on there my rather new looking aluminum TB looks like shit. I think I will remove it tomorrow and paint it.

I believe I only have a few more hours on it and then it will be ready for ignition.

I then mounted the tensioner and alternator. I then did about 1/2 the plumbing for the H/E. I am using the stock LSJ supercharger cooler reservoir, but I was going to use my second stock reservoir that I purchased in addition for extra cooling. My additional stock reservoir doesn't mount properly on the passenger side, so I must have to purchase a cobalt ss reservoir?

Casey can you help me out with that?

I then mounted the supercharger, but didn't torque it yet in case I have to remove it. I need to get pictures of some of this stuff.



the ls, ss, ss/sc, ss/tc use the same engine resevoir, the option B tank(goes on passenger side) should be from a ion redline, if its a cobalt(any model) it wont mount right, interview at ruins had to ziptie his in place...no big deal, just it wont sit in there right...thats normal if your using a cobalt tank as your option b, hope that helps

the ls, ss, ss/sc, ss/tc use the same engine resevoir, the option B tank(goes on passenger side) should be from a ion redline, if its a cobalt(any model) it wont mount right, interview at ruins had to ziptie his in place...no big deal, just it wont sit in there right...thats normal if your using a cobalt tank as your option b, hope that helps

correct. I made a home depot ghetto mounting bracket for it for like $15, but since you're trying to appear stock looking, I would recommend a opt B mounting bracket from OTTP or ZZP (I think the ZZP one is cheaper?)

Well I found out last night, it is not so true.

It sparked my curiousity. As I was preparing for my supercharger build I was grabbing engine bay photos everywhere on the forum here as I was in threads. There is someone here with a GM looking reservoir mounted on one of the old air intake studs.

So last night I decided to check it out again after I got off the forum. The same reservoir that I got will work with some modification. It actually DOES mount on the stud... but the second mounting tab (towards the front of the car) is pushing up against the washer bottle.

Today, I am going to carefully cut that mounting tab off and it will 100% mount on the air intake stud. I'll take some pics... before and after.

Also, I did look it up and the SS has a different coolant reservoir. I think the only difference is one has a sensor and one doesn't, but they appear to look physically the same in the diagrams I have.

Our reservoirs have a dummy sensor hole in them, so it is probably the same reservoir with the dummy plug punched out.

Ok, so my modification on the tank was successful.

Here is the stock tank. As you can see the mounting tab is hitting on the new LSJ washer reservoir.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/coolant-tank.jpg

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/coolant-tank2.jpg



After I neatly removed the mounting tab all seems to be well. For better mounting, it seems like I'll need a spacer under the nut on the stud since I cann't screw it down all the way or the tank won't sit right.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/coolant-tank3.jpg

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/coolant-tank4.jpg

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/g5/coolant-tank5.jpg



I installed the LSJ air intake today and since the TB was ugly (stock aluminum) I decided to paint it while I was cleaning up the garage. I didn't do much else today. Went to mom's with the kids and used the pool.

That looks great, Gene. You just going to 90 the outlet?

I bought some copper plumbing fittings today to use as the outlets, but despite being 3/4", they're way too big...I think I'll take them back and get some PVC fittings...those should work good.

I like what stenguyen1 used, though - I want those...

Actually the outlet on the bottom looks like it will just let me put hose on it and come out and then maybe run along the radiator support. I don't know about the routing of those hoses yet, lol. If I don't like the way everything looks, I'll tear it out.

Believe it or not, I just finished working so I obviously didn't get any work done on my car today :thumbsdow

Hey Gene kind of curious what your going to do about pulleys. Seeing how the s/c, tensioner, and idle pulleys are 6 rib and the crank,a/c,alt. are 5 rib. I have the feeling your not going to want to cut a rib off a belt to get it to work. I picked up crank, a/c, and alt in 6 rib but haven't installed yet. So if you go this route and get it done before me let me know how it goes and i'll do the same.

You mean 5 and 4 ribs, right?

The SS/SC uses 5 ribs, and the NA cars run 4.

well I have always heard it referred to as 5 and 6 rib.

Just topped 20k with 1 rib cut off the stock lsj belt, no problems. I've searched pretty extensively for a "proper" belt, but there is nothing available. And 2.4/2.2 use 5 rib, lsj is 6 rib.

Just topped 20k with 1 rib cut off the stock lsj belt, no problems. I've searched pretty extensively for a "proper" belt, but there is nothing available. And 2.4/2.2 use 5 rib, lsj is 6 rib.
That's what I thought.

Oh, I was talking the small ones...I guess whatever works...

Yep, no big deal. If anyone ever wants to do their own searching for a proper belt for this swap, there are 5 digits of a belts part number that will give details of the belt. Napa shows the numbers 5K400 for the 2.4. The 5 is the amount of ribs, and 400 is 40.0 inches. Different manus have the numbers oriented different it seems, but you can usually figure it out pretty simple.

Update:

Last evening I finished up plumbing the heat exchanger.

My friend showed me how to take apart the MAF connector and I was able to untangle the wires and move the MAF connector to its new home. I put some corrugated tubing around it and put the connector back together and it is plugged in.

I then had to put the engine wiring harness back together from taking it apart to get the MAF wires out of it. After about 30 more minutes, everything was back to normal looking.

My friend also suggested that I take the old brake booster hose and cut the ends off to use for the valve cover to new air intake breather. It was a brilliant idea and the hose looks all formed and looks like it was developed that way.

I installed the stage 2 belt using the pulley boys tension relief tool. I must say that I couldn't turn the tensioner down (compress) it any further and we couldn't quite get the belt on. It was half on and half off the tensioner pulley.

I put a bolt in the end of the supercharger pulley (stage 2 hub) and cranked the engine manually with a wrench and the belt slipped on. The belt also needed to be aligned with the rear of the pulleys (1 rib missing) so I got a body shop pry tool (plastic) and cranked the engine over with the wrench again and moved the belt backwards. All is well.

I added real hose clamps (worm type) to the LSJ upper radiator hose and installed it.

I put on the new evap hose from TB to purge solenoid.

I went to install the TB and the air intake hose from the TB to the one that sticks up out of the fender. This was quite a problem for me. Since I have active handling, I have an electronic brake control module and this big connector rests right below the TB. For the life of me I could not get the air intake hose on.

After about 30 minutes of messing with it I decided to remove the TB, install the air intake hose and clamp it on the TB and then try to install the TB to the supercharger again. I was able to get it carefully installed.

The top of the connector has a lever lock type assembly (vertical connector) and the top of the connector was sticking up too high. I may be able to grind it down, but the module and/or the harness can be really expensive if I ruin it, so I am sticking with the way it is for now.

Tonight I had some company so I couldn't work on my car.

What is left?

Install new 8 pin TB connector.
Run boost hose from gauge to intake manifold
Run wideband sensor wire from back of gauge to wideband sensor.
Gauges are already wired
Fill engine and heat exchanger circuit with coolant.
Install tune.
Fire up car.

I haven't taken any engine bay pics as I'm saving my goodies until it is finished :)

Hey Gene kind of curious what your going to do about pulleys. Seeing how the s/c, tensioner, and idle pulleys are 6 rib and the crank,a/c,alt. are 5 rib. I have the feeling your not going to want to cut a rib off a belt to get it to work. I picked up crank, a/c, and alt in 6 rib but haven't installed yet. So if you go this route and get it done before me let me know how it goes and i'll do the same.

As I wrote up just now, I stuck with cutting one rib off. It doesn't look weird or anything. I'm a pretty picky guy, but not that picky.

As I wrote up just now, I stuck with cutting one rib off. It doesn't look weird or anything. I'm a pretty picky guy, but not that picky.

I honestly don't see the point - it's a lot more effort to swap pulleys than to cut a rib off the belt, and it doesn't even look bad...

I honestly don't see the point - it's a lot more effort to swap pulleys than to cut a rib off the belt, and it doesn't even look bad...

cuting a rib off makes for 1/6th less friction, which means more belt slip than without it. However, its really not a big deal, since if you get belt slip you can just get a stg 2 belt, over sized tensioner, over sized idler, or adjustable tensioner, or any other aftermarket option out there for us.

i'm going to go with the pulley swap route. Actually i'm just swapping out the a/c and alternator the only pulley I'm changing is the crank pulley. It might be more work but that's fine cause I don't know maybe it's just me but cutting a rib off just has to weaken the belt in some way. I don't want to be on a trip somewhere and my belt rips in half or something and the cause being due to a rib being cut off.

I don't think that's gonna happen, but okay. :lol:

....I don't know maybe it's just me but cutting a rib off just has to weaken the belt in some way. I don't want to be on a trip somewhere and my belt rips in half or something and the cause being due to a rib being cut off.

Understandable. I picked up a spare stk lsj belt for $10 on here and keep it in my trunk in case this ever happens.

So last night I wired up the TB. I finished the sensor wire from the wideband to the actual wideband sensor. When I went to install the boost gauge boost line, the hose was not long enough. Made fast trip to Home Depot before it closed and got the smallest line they had, which was a tad too large. Decided to call it a night.

Today I got some vacuum/washer hose from work and tested it out tonight and it is a tad too small. Off to the auto parts store again tomorrow I guess.

I have been working all night and just finished so not working on the car tonight. With the holiday tomorrow and Hershey Park (amusement park) Sunday, I may not get to work on it until Monday or Tuesday.

All I need to do is load the tune and install the boost gauge hose and then it is ready to start, lol.