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Can you wetsand your headlight lenses to remove scratches?

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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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Can you wetsand your headlight lenses to remove scratches?

Hello Everyone,

I recently took my extra set of stock lights apart and currently painting them black. I notice though that my lenses have scratches on them from when i bought them from ebay. I was reading online about plastics, and do you think i could take some 600/1000/2000 grit wetsand paper to lightly sand the scratches out and then get a polish from walmart for afterwards. I know you can get stuff to eliminate cloudiness but I am looking for something to fill in or buff out light scratches. My lenses are completely removed so i can clean them inside and out before putting my lights back together.

thanks,

Josh

Last edited by CobaltCpe; Apr 17, 2009 at 06:59 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 07:08 PM
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wouldnt go any less then 1000 but yeah you can.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 07:20 PM
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they make headlight lense restorer at any or most auto parts places, works quite well to.,
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by SSchargedSS
they make headlight lense restorer at any or most auto parts places, works quite well to.,
yeah i have used the stuff that goes on the end of a grill and it doesnt get the scratches out but it does get the yellow or oxidation out. I am looking for a way to my scratches out as there has to be a way.

Originally Posted by 05LSCobalt
wouldnt go any less then 1000 but yeah you can.
Do you think 1000 though would even polish out light scratches?

Last edited by CobaltCpe; Apr 17, 2009 at 08:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 08:08 PM
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1000 would probably be a little rough if you ask me. I'd start with a could rubbing compound if there just light scratches/scuff marks.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by slowswap
1000 would probably be a little rough if you ask me. I'd start with a could rubbing compound if there just light scratches/scuff marks.
Any certain kind of rubbing compound. I know i could just pick some up at walmart. There little scratches and there from when the person use to wash there car and dry them it was the towels they used that put light scratches on them but there noticeable.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 08:18 PM
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I used to use rubbing compound, then polishing compound and cleaner wax to get rid of scratches on plastic. Same as paint but if you use a buffer be careful.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by DillySS
I used to use rubbing compound, then polishing compound and cleaner wax to get rid of scratches on plastic. Same as paint but if you use a buffer be careful.
Well i would rather not use a buffer as i don't really want to mess the lenses up even though it is my extra set. I should be able to get all of that at walmart that your saying. So i would just rub the rubbing compound in, wipe it smooth, then the polishing, wipe, cleaner wax then wipe and be good you think. I want to clean inside/outside good before i put my lights back together and I am in no hurry really on this as i want to make it right.

What about something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Polish-P...8708559&sr=8-1

Last edited by CobaltCpe; Apr 17, 2009 at 08:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 12:51 AM
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It will be easier to use a buffer to take scratches out... it will take forever by hand.

If you use the right buffer, would need to try hard as hell to burn the plastic. A random orbital buffer is very user friendly unlike the more professional rotary buffers. I have yet to burn any plastic for the lenses.
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Nighthawk243
It will be easier to use a buffer to take scratches out... it will take forever by hand.

If you use the right buffer, would need to try hard as hell to burn the plastic. A random orbital buffer is very user friendly unlike the more professional rotary buffers. I have yet to burn any plastic for the lenses.
What kind of application stuff would i use with a buffer though?
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 09:09 AM
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Plastic Polish by Mequiars
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by BlilBT
Plastic Polish by Mequiars
that shows it gently removes fine scratches. I have used stuff that said the same thing and they never work by hand.
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 09:36 AM
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You won't remove scratches by hand. Use a buffer at a low speed and just keep it moving.
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 09:39 AM
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use a small 2" polisher you could go as course as 800 if there are real dep scratches but you shouldn't really need to go any courser than 1000. I have to do it all time at the body shop
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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From my experience with tinting tails lights:

If you can feel the scratches with your nail, do 1000/2000, POLISHING compound, and then Plast X by Meguiers. Also, don't get anxious and move to the next step without getting the scratches out because it will not go away later.
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueBolt66
use a small 2" polisher you could go as course as 800 if there are real dep scratches but you shouldn't really need to go any courser than 1000. I have to do it all time at the body shop
So should i use 800 grit wetsand paper on the lense and then a 2" polisher to buff it out. Here is a picture of my painted lights so far as i am seeing what else i can with them before i put them back together plus i want to fix the lenses.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/DSC01160.jpg

I also could use vht night shades and put one thin coat on the lens and then clear coat it and it should cover up the scratches and look damm nice too. What do you think of that. I am two tone the lights today and i will take pics later on tonight of them as there going to look awesome.

Last edited by CobaltCpe; Apr 18, 2009 at 12:53 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by CobaltCpe
yeah i have used the stuff that goes on the end of a grill and it doesnt get the scratches out but it does get the yellow or oxidation out. I am looking for a way to my scratches out as there has to be a way.



Do you think 1000 though would even polish out light scratches?
ahhh me < reading haha sorry man..

Ive used the same thing above posters said for scratches. Rubbing Compound / cleaner wax.. kinda treat it like you would paint, and you should be good to go... good luck man
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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tagged for reference later
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SSchargedSS
ahhh me < reading haha sorry man..

Ive used the same thing above posters said for scratches. Rubbing Compound / cleaner wax.. kinda treat it like you would paint, and you should be good to go... good luck man
Hey i see turtle wax has the rubbing compound and also a cleaner wax in the little can at walmart for 2.50 each. Would that probably work for me do you think or are there better rubbing compounds to get and a different cleaner wax. Would i just do this by hand also.

Josh
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 02:09 PM
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not sure about turtle wax... but it will probably work, I think I used maguires (however u spell it) and ya you can do it by hand. Just use a micro fiber cloth, and dont rub to hard
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SSchargedSS
not sure about turtle wax... but it will probably work, I think I used maguires (however u spell it) and ya you can do it by hand. Just use a micro fiber cloth, and dont rub to hard
Do they make both the rubbing compound and cleaner wax? I mean meguires.
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 12:10 AM
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why not just wetsand and spray clearcoat on it. I think that would work perfectly
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 08:36 AM
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Plastic-X is a finishing polish... it is meant for very very light imperfections. Also, it is something that you must actually work into the plastic if you're doing it by hand... it is a common misconception that products like Plastic-X and Scratch-X are a product you wipe on, let sit for a few minutes, then just wipe off... it won't work that way... you have to actually act like you're trying to force that product into the paint or plastic.

For me, I do my plastic parts in 3 steps: Wetsand (For major imperfections), then compound (I used a product normally used for paint, but it worked beautifully. Meguiars So1o polish and medium cut pad. For the fine polish, I used a finishing pad and Plastic-X.

Originally Posted by CobaltCpe
Do they make both the rubbing compound and cleaner wax? I mean meguires.
Yes. Meguiars has quite an extensive cataloge of products that range from very heavy cut machine polishes to waxes.

Originally Posted by Gestapo007
why not just wetsand and spray clearcoat on it. I think that would work perfectly
It doesn't really work that way. Clear coat is meant to be a protective layer. What you would basically be doing is covering the unfinished plastic and have horrible hazing.

You need to polish the plastic smooth and remove all of the sanding scratches before applying a protective clear coat, otherwise, the sanding marks will still be present and cause light refraction. When you remove scratches, you're trying to even out the surface to eliminate flaws that refract the light.

Last edited by Nighthawk243; Apr 19, 2009 at 08:37 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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I do this atleast a couple times a week at work, i use 1500 and buff it out with a high speed...if you can get a hold of a buffer it really isnt that bad, just don't stay in one spot...but it would take quite a bit to mess up that plastic so no worries. To be safe tape up the bumper around the lights cuz that is easy to burn
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by kqst786
I do this atleast a couple times a week at work, i use 1500 and buff it out with a high speed...if you can get a hold of a buffer it really isnt that bad, just don't stay in one spot...but it would take quite a bit to mess up that plastic so no worries. To be safe tape up the bumper around the lights cuz that is easy to burn
Well the lights are not on my car so i wouldn't have to worry about taping off my bumper at all. I mean i use to have a sata II gun and I painted my last car so i dont see i would have a problem wetsanding and buffing it out.
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