Can you wetsand your headlight lenses to remove scratches?
Can you wetsand your headlight lenses to remove scratches?
Hello Everyone,
I recently took my extra set of stock lights apart and currently painting them black. I notice though that my lenses have scratches on them from when i bought them from ebay. I was reading online about plastics, and do you think i could take some 600/1000/2000 grit wetsand paper to lightly sand the scratches out and then get a polish from walmart for afterwards. I know you can get stuff to eliminate cloudiness but I am looking for something to fill in or buff out light scratches. My lenses are completely removed so i can clean them inside and out before putting my lights back together.
thanks,
Josh
I recently took my extra set of stock lights apart and currently painting them black. I notice though that my lenses have scratches on them from when i bought them from ebay. I was reading online about plastics, and do you think i could take some 600/1000/2000 grit wetsand paper to lightly sand the scratches out and then get a polish from walmart for afterwards. I know you can get stuff to eliminate cloudiness but I am looking for something to fill in or buff out light scratches. My lenses are completely removed so i can clean them inside and out before putting my lights back together.
thanks,
Josh
Last edited by CobaltCpe; Apr 17, 2009 at 06:59 PM.
Do you think 1000 though would even polish out light scratches?
Last edited by CobaltCpe; Apr 17, 2009 at 08:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Any certain kind of rubbing compound. I know i could just pick some up at walmart. There little scratches and there from when the person use to wash there car and dry them it was the towels they used that put light scratches on them but there noticeable.
What about something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Polish-P...8708559&sr=8-1
Last edited by CobaltCpe; Apr 17, 2009 at 08:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
It will be easier to use a buffer to take scratches out... it will take forever by hand.
If you use the right buffer, would need to try hard as hell to burn the plastic. A random orbital buffer is very user friendly unlike the more professional rotary buffers. I have yet to burn any plastic for the lenses.
If you use the right buffer, would need to try hard as hell to burn the plastic. A random orbital buffer is very user friendly unlike the more professional rotary buffers. I have yet to burn any plastic for the lenses.
It will be easier to use a buffer to take scratches out... it will take forever by hand.
If you use the right buffer, would need to try hard as hell to burn the plastic. A random orbital buffer is very user friendly unlike the more professional rotary buffers. I have yet to burn any plastic for the lenses.
If you use the right buffer, would need to try hard as hell to burn the plastic. A random orbital buffer is very user friendly unlike the more professional rotary buffers. I have yet to burn any plastic for the lenses.
use a small 2" polisher you could go as course as 800 if there are real dep scratches but you shouldn't really need to go any courser than 1000. I have to do it all time at the body shop
From my experience with tinting tails lights:
If you can feel the scratches with your nail, do 1000/2000, POLISHING compound, and then Plast X by Meguiers. Also, don't get anxious and move to the next step without getting the scratches out because it will not go away later.
If you can feel the scratches with your nail, do 1000/2000, POLISHING compound, and then Plast X by Meguiers. Also, don't get anxious and move to the next step without getting the scratches out because it will not go away later.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/DSC01160.jpg
I also could use vht night shades and put one thin coat on the lens and then clear coat it and it should cover up the scratches and look damm nice too. What do you think of that. I am two tone the lights today and i will take pics later on tonight of them as there going to look awesome.
Last edited by CobaltCpe; Apr 18, 2009 at 12:53 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
yeah i have used the stuff that goes on the end of a grill and it doesnt get the scratches out but it does get the yellow or oxidation out. I am looking for a way to my scratches out as there has to be a way.
Do you think 1000 though would even polish out light scratches?
Do you think 1000 though would even polish out light scratches?
Ive used the same thing above posters said for scratches. Rubbing Compound / cleaner wax.. kinda treat it like you would paint, and you should be good to go... good luck man
Josh
Plastic-X is a finishing polish... it is meant for very very light imperfections. Also, it is something that you must actually work into the plastic if you're doing it by hand... it is a common misconception that products like Plastic-X and Scratch-X are a product you wipe on, let sit for a few minutes, then just wipe off... it won't work that way... you have to actually act like you're trying to force that product into the paint or plastic.
For me, I do my plastic parts in 3 steps: Wetsand (For major imperfections), then compound (I used a product normally used for paint, but it worked beautifully. Meguiars So1o polish and medium cut pad. For the fine polish, I used a finishing pad and Plastic-X.
Yes. Meguiars has quite an extensive cataloge of products that range from very heavy cut machine polishes to waxes.
It doesn't really work that way. Clear coat is meant to be a protective layer. What you would basically be doing is covering the unfinished plastic and have horrible hazing.
You need to polish the plastic smooth and remove all of the sanding scratches before applying a protective clear coat, otherwise, the sanding marks will still be present and cause light refraction. When you remove scratches, you're trying to even out the surface to eliminate flaws that refract the light.
For me, I do my plastic parts in 3 steps: Wetsand (For major imperfections), then compound (I used a product normally used for paint, but it worked beautifully. Meguiars So1o polish and medium cut pad. For the fine polish, I used a finishing pad and Plastic-X.
You need to polish the plastic smooth and remove all of the sanding scratches before applying a protective clear coat, otherwise, the sanding marks will still be present and cause light refraction. When you remove scratches, you're trying to even out the surface to eliminate flaws that refract the light.
Last edited by Nighthawk243; Apr 19, 2009 at 08:37 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I do this atleast a couple times a week at work, i use 1500 and buff it out with a high speed...if you can get a hold of a buffer it really isnt that bad, just don't stay in one spot...but it would take quite a bit to mess up that plastic so no worries. To be safe tape up the bumper around the lights cuz that is easy to burn
I do this atleast a couple times a week at work, i use 1500 and buff it out with a high speed...if you can get a hold of a buffer it really isnt that bad, just don't stay in one spot...but it would take quite a bit to mess up that plastic so no worries. To be safe tape up the bumper around the lights cuz that is easy to burn


