http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cobalt-SS-Ion-Redline-05-06-07-Brake-Rotors-and-Pads_W0QQitemZ220351544397QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item22035154439 7&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A131 8

How do you guys find this crap, :lol:

How do you guys find this crap, :lol:
ebay :lol:
i believe the song went " i found it on ebayyyyyyy"

nope, sure havent

brakes=breakes

so what yall are saying they are junk? i need new ones too.

4 rotors and 2 sets of pads for $225??? gotta be junk. i have never seen aftermarket brake stuff for a cobalt ss for under $400 for all of it.

well what are some good ones then? i dont need top of the line just ones that are not junk.

actuily i have known a few to get them off ebay.. i am not 100% sure on the price but my friend scott is roolin with them right now. im sure some 1 on here picked these up just wait for them to chime in about them

4 rotors and 2 sets of pads for $225??? gotta be junk. i have never seen aftermarket brake stuff for a cobalt ss for under $400 for all of it.

nah...we just get priced out the ass because of supply and demand...lets face it, every cobalt needs brakes. That being said you get what you pay for (to an extent). In conclusion, i have no idea what the fuck im talking about!!!!!!!

hey people on the redline forums ( my forum) is using them with no problems... i would say go for it or ask some of these guys

google this since i cant post a direct link "anyone used the ebay rotors and pads ion redline"( use google and its the 3rd one down) i would say get um cant beat that price.

i ended up getting in on the r1concepts group buy last month, $400 for premium rotors and hawk pads. i really wanted powerslot rotors, but couldnt justify the cost difference, and the r1 rotors are great anyways.

if you need brakes and dont want to spend money to get quality slotted/dimpled/drilled rotors and pads, go to your local parts store and pick up some replacement rotors and a set of half decent pads. if your rotors are in alright shape you can have them turned and you will save more money, however factory rotors suck.

yes the factorys suck. im on my second sent and they have been turned twice. i only got 25000 miles on my car now. now that my warrenty is up i have to get some new ones.

i bought them, the seller seems pretty good, has good feedback
ill let everyone know how they turn out

Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads. My buddy has had them for around 30k miles and they have bearly worn down with aggressive driving. And they brake so hard. Def worth wild.

let us know dayna, im in the market, although i was going to do gmpp in rear and OTT in front

yeah i will
and for 225 bucks and free shipping i had to get them

Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads. My buddy has had them for around 30k miles and they have bearly worn down with aggressive driving. And they brake so hard. Def worth wild.

i have powerslot rotors with hawk pads, i stop unbelievably fast now.

well what are some good ones then? i dont need top of the line just ones that are not junk.

i just picked up a full set of rotoras drilled and slotted plus hawk hps pads for 540shipped;)

Even if they only last 1 year, It's worth it IMO. Ebay sellers are selling stuff on very slim margins. Just because the price is low, doesn't mean they are crap. They are probably as good as stock or better. The stockers aren't even plated to prevent rusting.

you are joking right? no you are not...right.

Not at all. How can you go wrong for $250? I can do 2 brake jobs for the price other setups cost. Are they going to last less than half as long as a $500 setup? I highly doubt it.

You don't think GM buys from the supplier with the lowest prices? '05-'07 stock rotors are garbage. It's hard to do worse! lol

I have this set from ebay. i have no issues with them I like mine.

I bought these just to give it a try. I put 500 miles on them this weekend and I think they work just fine. Even if they don't last they were cheap so worth a try

I think it's hilarious that some people think they are getting a better product just because they paid more! There are a lot of wholesalers on Ebay. That means the items have only been marked-up 1-2 times rather than 3-4 times.

Go to the dealership and pay $600 for a front brake job with GM spec parts, I'm sure it will be well worth it! :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

yea, exactly,
"oh its on e-bay, there not going to work"
not everyhting on ebay is crap, its actually a website, and there just using ebay to get more customers
how could you go wrong for 225 bucks shipped? lets say they last a year, i still only paid half for what the dealership wants, or any place wants for drilled slotted rotors

For those prices, I might just do my brakes every spring just to have fresh rotors behind my 19's! :lol: I bought cadmium plated cross-drilled rotors on Ebay and Hawk HPS pads from R1 Concepts. So far, I am happy with how they look and perform.

for the people that got these. do they look like that in the picture or different?

for the people that got these. do they look like that in the picture or different?

Just like the picture

Just like the picture

thanks. i ordered them today so ill post what they look like on the car when they come in.

just got them in
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c314/malibusschev/img360.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c314/malibusschev/img361.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c314/malibusschev/img362.jpg

should be on the car next week

man those look good. cant wait to get mine in. is the rear on the left and the front on the right?

man those look good. cant wait to get mine in. is the rear on the left and the front on the right?

yes, fronts are bigger

those will be worse than stock blanks

those will be worse than stock blanks

why??????


why do people just say shit without giving answers

those will be worse than stock blanks

explain....

Drilled and slotted means less braking surface. Drilled may save very little weight but other then that, they dont do anything good at all.

And cheap doesnt always = bad quality. They make up for lower profit margins with volume. I ordered infinity speakers. They go for $160 at Best Buy. I paid less then $80 shipped on ebay. Same quality, half the price.

drilled and slotted also run alot cooler and warp alot less as they are better ventilated

explain....

There going to crack and even before that your pads will be eaten up in no time at all

There going to crack and even before that your pads will be eaten up in no time at all

sure they wont.. while they might crack.. thats an issue with drilled rotors regardless... those pads are supposed to be decent...

drilled and slotted also run alot cooler and warp alot less as they are better ventilated

just because they are drilled does not mean they run cooler..id be willing to bet they dont run much if any cooler than stocks...the drilled holes allow for gas ventilation mostly.

Googled it and got this from http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1437507

The reason for the creation of cross drilled rotors initially was to remove the "gasses" from the brake pads. HOWEVER, most of your modern brake pads (Axxis metal, AEM semi-ceramic) do NOT produce gasses when heating. This was on bad brake pads used in the 1950s and 1960s. Back then, asbestos was also used, and we dont use that either.

The other reason is so called heat dissapation. I don't have my physics and thermo books with me, but the logic is that the holes in the rotor are suppose to allow the brake pad to cool. So...air gets into the rotor from the inside of the vents. If you have a back rotor which is solid, air gets into these holes how? If your stopped, you are leaving air inside these holes sandwiched between the pads, thus creating air with a rising temperature. Its increasing in pressure from the heat, which I guess you "could" call a gas that would affect braking. So the cross drilled rotors do not remove any gasses formed by brake pads (because there are none created anymore) but could possibly inhibit the creation of "hot spots".

Cross drilled rotors have LESS contact area because of the holes.
But if the rotor is cooler, its better, right? Well no, because these rotors are not cooler. THe heat is generated from the pad/rotor contact. What removes heat the most effectively? When stopped or moving, the pad transfers heat into the rotor because its made of cast iron. the rotor has a lot of surface area and even vanes in it. But the little holes allow air in this surface contact, and you can transfer more heat into a solid big ass chunk of cast iron more than you can into the air. Don't believe me? Touch some steam at 150 degrees, then touch a piece of hot metal which is at 150 degrees. Which burns your hand? the metal. So let the heat transfer into the metal, because since it has so much more surface area, dissapates better.

Safety!!
Cross drilled rotors can crack! I have seen them!!


Even racing teams will reccomend AGAINST cross drilled rotors:
http://www.livermoreperformanc....html


Companies that sell cross drilled rotors that are redrilled may not be structurally sound. I have actually seen pictures of rear Integra rotors that have had hairline cracks turn into the rotor actually breaking apart!

Do your homework. Even Porsche and Ferrari will admit that the cross drilled rotors they use are for looks. So if you are one of those kids who thinks the little holes look cool, get a name brand drilled rotor like Ferrari does. The REASON Ferrari's 'holed' rotors are alright to use is because they are CAST with the holes in them, so they are not actually drilled into cast iron rotors. Cheap drilled rotors are not safe, and even the good ones are not necessary. Why do Ferrari do it? People THINK they want it, and it sells. If you don't believe me, go into the business world. You will learn that pretty soon, you can sell utter shit if people THINK its better.

Information I gathered from http://www.pdm-racing.com/prod....html
says:


"KVR Crossdrilled Rotors

Why should you upgrade to cross drilled rotors?

Simply stated, the function of any vehicles brake system is to stop the vehicle. This is accomplished by absorbing the kinetic energy stored in the moving vehicle, and converting it into heat. The friction caused by the brake pad rubbing on the rotor is the source of this heat. The more quickly and efficiently that heat can be absorbed and dissipated, the more quickly and efficiently the car will stop.

There are several contributing factors to this heat reduction. One of the most common sources of heat is from the gases produced by the bonding agents of the brake pad burning off. Under severe braking, this can actually produce a boundary layer of gas that pushes the pad away from the rotor, which can lead to excessive brake fade. The cross-drilled holes or slots in a rotor provide an escape path for these gasses (de-gassing or out-gassing are common terms), and allow the pad to stay in contact with the rotor. As well as de-gassing, cross drilling or slotting will provide better wet weather braking as water is swept through the holes, or down the slots.

A vented rotor can be viewed as an air fan. When in motion, the vents draw air from the center of the rotor outward. This air flow, over an increased internal surface area, effectively dissipates rotor heat. Cross drilling adds to this air flow, as well as providing additional rotor surface cooling. "

This company is just telling you that the rotors may be cooler, however they fail to mention that the holes really do create a more than substantial decrease in surface area, thus less braking, thus less heat created, thus the less heat CREATED will leave the rotors cooler, the holes barely do anything! Its the less braking lowering the temperature!

Slotted rotors-
Find me a company that uses stock slotted rotors. They remove brake dust, but if you study braking systems, you find that with modern cars, flat blank rotors and semi-ceramic pads, the brake dust causing the rotor to slip on it is almost non-existent. But the brake dust doesnt need all those lines. Notice how most front brake pads (and most back) have that line down the middle to give essentially two bite points. If OEM or racing companies found it to be a benefit, they would do it.

PROOF OF IT ALL:

Find me an F1 car as of now that uses cross drilled or slotted rotors.
They all use full ceramic rotors and ceramic pads. Are they drilled or slotted? No.

If they helped the fastest cars in the world, wouldn't they use them? Its basic calculations that show the lack in surface area does not make up for the possible loss in temperarure. They use brake cooling air ducts insted.

BIG BRAKE KITS:
Some have asked if the big brake kits are worth it. This is sort of a relative question, but the simple answer is no. Regarding the big ones with drilled rotors, if you know that they are cast that way, at least they wont crack. I will still advice against them.
In terms of a big brake kit, I have seen some for Civic DX models. Civics have the small pad, small caliper, and a 9.5" rotor. The big rotors are 12" in diameter, ok so the overall diameter is close to that of an Acura RL (1999). But the sweeping area (the area that the pad can grab) is still the same if they use the same caliper and same pad. If you have the same pad and caliper, you are using the same rotor surface, just farther out, so it will increase braking from stock. However, if you were to change knuckles, etc, and get Acura RL caliper (larger piston than your civic DX piston), RL pads (much bigger and taller), and RL rotors 11.8" but much more surface area is touched, then you have a better brake setup because you have OEM parts, and a better grip on more area of the rotor. The downfall is added weight (since big brake kits are usually 2 piece and lighter) but the benefit is that you have so much more stopping. Ok, so the big brake kit will have less unsprung and rotational mass (so a little better accelleration but less braking), but they tend to run over a grand, and you can use OEM parts to build a better setup for half that.

IN CONCLUSION:
Don't buy slotted or cross drilled rotors, blank are better, and stop better. Physics people, get me my formulas and help me out here.

If you must get rotors with designs on them, get the slotted ones by a good company, and DON'T get blank rotors redrilled with little holes all over them. IF you absolutly must have the rotors with holes cause you like em, get them from a company that casts the rotors like that. I have seen rotors break and this is for your safety!

REMEMBER......
Your car will only stop as fast as your tires will allow. All the braking in the world wont work if your tires are bald and on ice!!

sure they wont.. while they might crack.. thats an issue with drilled rotors regardless... those pads are supposed to be decent...

Regardless of pad. Drilled/slotted rotors EAT, Munch Up, Cookie monster those pads up.


They will Demolish any pad put on.

Annihilate them

Bulldoze and devour.

Slaughter

I went with cross drilled only rotors for appearance purposes mostly. I decided against drilled and slotted due to the fact that the slots chew up pads quicker. They shouldn't crack under daily driver use.

its false to say that slots chew pads up, they dont. drilled rotors with no chamfer kill pads. chew them up. See C6 Z06 production cars....new OTTP BBK kits uses lightweight combo floating DIMPLED rotors....hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I have a set of these on my redline i love them the rotors are awesome and so are the brakes i race alot so i slow down and speed up alot and these brakes are just warm when you slow down really fast from 120mph i can hold my hand on them without burning it. i would get them again if i needed some more.

Drilled and slotted means less braking surface. Drilled may save very little weight but other then that, they dont do anything good at all.

And cheap doesnt always = bad quality. They make up for lower profit margins with volume. I ordered infinity speakers. They go for $160 at Best Buy. I paid less then $80 shipped on ebay. Same quality, half the price.

sry for double post but you are way wrong. When you brake the two pads push against the rotor at such a fast speed that it doesnt matter if they are slotted and drilled or just solid.
By having the holes it greats a suction that helps stop the vehicle and the holes and cross on the rotor helps keep it cool so it doesnt warp right away. if you look and do research on rotors from manufacturers of racing vehicles you will see that they say cross and drilled rotors stop about 10% faster then none cross drilled.

I have a set of these on my redline i love them the rotors are awesome and so are the brakes i race alot so i slow down and speed up alot and these brakes are just warm when you slow down really fast from 120mph i can hold my hand on them without burning it. i would get them again if i needed some more.



sry for double post but you are way wrong. When you brake the two pads push against the rotor at such a fast speed that it doesnt matter if they are slotted and drilled or just solid.
By having the holes it greats a suction that helps stop the vehicle and the holes and cross on the rotor helps keep it cool so it doesnt warp right away. if you look and do research on rotors from manufacturers of racing vehicles you will see that they say cross and drilled rotors stop about 10% faster then none cross drilled.

sir roderick where did you dream this stuff up? ROFLMAO....Suction? stop 10% faster? Like not be rude but wtf are you smokin' dude?

I have a set of these on my redline i love them the rotors are awesome and so are the brakes i race alot so i slow down and speed up alot and these brakes are just warm when you slow down really fast from 120mph i can hold my hand on them without burning it. i would get them again if i needed some more.



sry for double post but you are way wrong. When you brake the two pads push against the rotor at such a fast speed that it doesnt matter if they are slotted and drilled or just solid.
By having the holes it greats a suction that helps stop the vehicle and the holes and cross on the rotor helps keep it cool so it doesnt warp right away. if you look and do research on rotors from manufacturers of racing vehicles you will see that they say cross and drilled rotors stop about 10% faster then none cross drilled.

fucking FAIL

sir roderick where did you dream this stuff up? ROFLMAO....Suction? stop 10% faster? Like not be rude but wtf are you smokin' dude?

pwnt...

its false to say that slots chew pads up, they dont. drilled rotors with no chamfer kill pads. chew them up. See C6 Z06 production cars....new OTTP BBK kits uses lightweight combo floating DIMPLED rotors....hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

say it aint so .. i might know what i'm talking about :lol:

ps.. i'd trust the shit outta this guy :twothumbs

On ebay, brakemasters said he will sell blanks and pads for $180 shipped.

Holy hell... 225 for both rotors and pads on all 4 wheels?

Hell... I paid roughly 250 for Powerslots and EBC Greenstuff for the FRONT's only.

kool stuff

Op ..any Feedback On This?

will be on early next week

Got The Same Today Intall Them Tomorrrow. They Do Look Good. The Quality On The Pad Look Better Than The Rotors.. =)

so what rotors and pads do people suggest?

Anything Expensive

ayyy can help me out better than that

lol yes i bought those same brake that the op of this thread got on ebay for 225 i will give continious update on here after tomorrow =)

http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/3/newbrakes6.jpg
http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/3/newbrakes5.jpg
http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/3/newbrakes4.jpg

http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/3/newbrakes3.jpg
http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/3/newbrakes2.jpg
http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/3/newbrakes1.jpg

They May Be Not The Best Quality As Ebays Stuff Sometimes Do, But Sure As Hell Look Good And Performance Very Well At First Impresion!

What type of pads?

Generally the rotors are fine, but most of the kits on E-bay come with cheap shit pads. replace them with some good hawk HPS in the front (less than $60) and they work just fine. Not everyone pushes thier brakes that hard, so having higher quality stuff is wasted. I for one would never try to save money on brakes, but I am always using them very, very hard for a street car.

powerstop ceramic pads ..
http://www.powerstop.com/

They're junk.

NEVER buy cheap slotted/drilled rotors from ebay... I'm not even sure I'd buy big name brakes from there...

ok data base error

They're junk.

NEVER buy cheap slotted/drilled rotors from ebay... I'm not even sure I'd buy big name brakes from there...

This is very false my friend. When I had my GTi a few years ago I used a very similar setup. It was my daily driver and I auto crossed atleast twice a month. They lasted just shy of 2 years. About a year and 9 months.

do slotted and or drilled rotors cut down on rust alot? I seem to have a shit load of rust on my rotors....

do slotted and or drilled rotors cut down on rust alot? I seem to have a shit load of rust on my rotors....

lol no.

lol no.

wtf some sales people lied to me, said they would cut down on rust. Mine are rusted like crazy and look like complete shit

wtf some sales people lied to me, said they would cut down on rust. Mine are rusted like crazy and look like complete shit

Are they zinc coated?

wtf some sales people lied to me, said they would cut down on rust. Mine are rusted like crazy and look like complete shit

did it just rain? it could be "surface rust.." .. shouldn't be real rust ..

thinking about buying ebay rotors and getting ebc red stuffed...u think ill be fine ?...and is it even worth it

did it just rain? it could be "surface rust.." .. shouldn't be real rust ..
oh no ill take pics they are covered not were the brake pads hits but everywhere else

Are they zinc coated?
they are stock rotors um I have no idea if they are

Mine Are Zinc Coated Look Sharp Like Diamonds Behind The Stock Wheels

which ones do you have and how old are they?

THE ONE FOR 225 ON EBAY
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390029403447&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

i got them 3 days now i will give feedback a month from now

ok data base error

This is very false my friend. When I had my GTi a few years ago I used a very similar setup. It was my daily driver and I auto crossed atleast twice a month. They lasted just shy of 2 years. About a year and 9 months.

If you want to cheap out and leave you're safety to a cheaply made ebay product with little to no research involved, so be it.

Me? I'm spending the extra $150 for Powerslot or EBC.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q97/imacfarlane/100_1681.jpg

I don't want this to be me..

That wont happen if you dont get drilled. There is no point in getting them because they crack and you loose braking surface.

uuhh finnally somebody with pic to back the words.. wow that look bad but ooh well i keep my eyes open and even if the last me a year i be happy...

uuhh finnally somebody with pic to back the words.. wow that look bad but ooh well i keep my eyes open and even if the last me a year i be happy...

what he posted has nothing to do with them being ebay.. and everything to do with being drilled rotors... you can get them cyro'd and that'll help out alot too

what he posted has nothing to do with them being ebay.. and everything to do with being drilled rotors... you can get them cyro'd and that'll help out alot too

so drilled =bad?? are there any rotors out there that dont rust as much???

what he posted has nothing to do with them being ebay.. and everything to do with being drilled rotors... you can get them cyro'd and that'll help out alot too

what is cyro? sorry the noob question..and then again he dont specifies how is driving habit. the waY i drive may give me better luck! if not its was only 225 bucks

I bought my pads and drilled/slotted rotors from this seller have had them for a few months no problems and they work/look great

For The Way The Look And How Heavy They Are , I Think They Will Be Ok.

So is he the only person that's had them for a period of time..if were only worried about the crossdrilled...I had a rotora big brake kit on my honda and that was drilled the only problem I had with them was the caliper nothing to do with the rotor....I think im gonna just buy these on wednesday unless there r more ppl with negitave opinions on them.....cuz for fuck sake its only 225 for all the way around u can't beat that with a stick

Lol....ebay Is A Marketing Tool From Small Company's, LIKE A LOT OF VENDORS IN THIS SITE USED EBAY AS WELL. PPL JUST LABEL EBAY AS AUTOMATIC BAD .

i'm just saying with improperly done drilled rotors they're prone to cracking.. and cyro'ing is a way to strengthen parts for cheap

Lol....ebay Is A Marketing Tool From Small Company's, LIKE A LOT OF VENDORS IN THIS SITE USED EBAY AS WELL. PPL JUST LABEL EBAY AS AUTOMATIC BAD .

correct :D

If you want to cheap out and leave you're safety to a cheaply made ebay product with little to no research involved, so be it.

Me? I'm spending the extra $150 for Powerslot or EBC.


I don't want this to be me..

UUM i dont think those are the same i got, those are front right? are u sure u got those from same seller and same price? mine got 4 set of hole lines and the a slotted line between....

I don't know what to tell you Red06. Mine never did that. Maybe the day those rotors were made the quality controll guy was in the last stages of a messy divorce and just didn't care...

or he was filling bankrupt chapter 13 :usa::lol:

I have had mine on for 2 months with no issues. No rust, no cracking...I like mine

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c314/malibusschev/img467.jpg
got them on
no problems so far

They are great..

yes the factorys suck. im on my second sent and they have been turned twice. i only got 25000 miles on my car now. now that my warrenty is up i have to get some new ones.

i got 30k out of my stock pads and still rocking the stock rotors

stock rotors are shit. I think its funny how some of you guys have had ur rotors turned. I changed my pads at 30k and the rotor was already way below discard spec. Our rotors are made like the german ones. (saab anyone) They use a softer metal rotor so the braking is improved, but this drastically changes the lifespan of the rotor. VW's, Beamers, and mercedes all have this problem. Anytime i have any german car come in for a State inspection i always mike the rotors and 90% of the time they FAIL. I gaurantee if any of you actually measured the rotors before they were machined they were already below manufactures specifiaction. And thats why after u have them turned the warp right to shit the first time they are heated up!