Guess it's time to let the cat out of the bag. I have been working for the past few months on my Ion and it's finally been dynoed and I have dialed in the tune. The only thing I'm really missing is a good valvetrain to help stretch out the power. I will make a build thread shortly, but for now here is the dyno graph. The two runs at ~320/~265 are just a Harrop blower on pump gas with meth injection and the two ~410/~390 are on a 100 shot. The second nitrous run had so much more torque because I was able to bump the timing a little more in the low end with the methanol. Enjoy!

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/SAIORELI/Redline/DSCN0660.jpg

And here's a teaser pic under the hood:

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/SAIORELI/Redline/DSCN0661.jpg

And a little fireball action from the cut out when letting off the throttle :-)

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/SAIORELI/Redline/fireball.jpg

Nice hiccup in the top end

wow nicely done.

engine bay looks nice and clean. Nice job on that.

sweet deal

Nice hiccup in the top end

On the run in red? Yeah that was a misfire lol.

wat intake are u running

wat intake are u running

One that I made myself from 3" aluminum piping.

in the boom region, but nice

good job man..

Nice numbers on both ends. What size pully?

Nice numbers on both ends. What size pully?


x2 :cool:

Nice numbers on both ends. What size pully?

2.8 on the TVS

in for build thread

how hard was it get the tune set with the methanol and nitrous

:lol: @ AFR . solid numbers. You should paint/powdercoat your valve cover. Looks out of place.

:lol: @ AFR . solid numbers. You should paint/powdercoat your valve cover. Looks out of place.

There was no sniffer in for AFR since I was already logging with HPT and they use the same wideband anyhow lol. I am going to paint the valve cover the same color as the blower. But that's not really a priority right now.

nice numbers man..hmm im hoping someone can do these numbers without nos...we will see as the tvs boys progress further..

I know with better top end airflow there is another 30hp easily. Right now I'm on stock cams, springs, and valves. All I did was port the exhaust side of the head. But I don't think we're going to hit 400whp with the Harrop unless some Q16 is thrown in the mix. It's a great blower, but it has limits.

I know with better top end airflow there is another 30hp easily. Right now I'm on stock cams, springs, and valves. All I did was port the exhaust side of the head. But I don't think we're going to hit 400whp with the Harrop unless some Q16 is thrown in the mix. It's a great blower, but it has limits.

didn't you just hit 400????? lol. how'd you tune for the meth AND nitrous?

didn't you just hit 400????? lol. how'd you tune for the meth AND nitrous?

like you normally would. tune for the meth for regular AFR. then tune AFR on nitrous by messing with the nitrous jets

in for build thread

how hard was it get the tune set with the methanol and nitrous

Not hard at all. I've tuned everything from Supras to DSMs to Scions to Our cars. I had it dialed in overnight pretty much. I just have to get Devil's Own to send me the #5 nozzle like they were supposed to instead of the too small 3 and the too big 7. I would have made more power yesterday with the #5 nozzle. I was limited to only 22 degrees up top and 16 down low with that little nozzle.

nice numbers man..hmm im hoping someone can do these numbers without nos...we will see as the tvs boys progress further..

Do you seriously believe that you can make up for 100hp shot of nitrous on what is basically the same setup? There isn't going to be a 400+whp TVS balt without spray, at least not something that an average person would be able to replicate.

And, nice numbers. Glad to see someone do it right :lol:

Stock internals still, right?

didn't you just hit 400????? lol. how'd you tune for the meth AND nitrous?

Yeah but I hit the 411 with nitrous.

As far as tuning, the nitrous tunes itself with the right jets. The methanol keeps knock at bay with the nitrous too. You still have to pull some timing though. About 8 degrees through the entire powerband. Now with some C16 it's a whole different story on nitrous.

well what i meant was, people were saying, timing wise, that nitrous and methanol do the opposite

Do you seriously believe that you can make up for 100hp shot of nitrous on what is basically the same setup? There isn't going to be a 400+whp TVS balt without spray, at least not something that an average person would be able to replicate.

And, nice numbers. Glad to see someone do it right :lol:

Stock internals still, right?

Well for the most part. I did drop in some Diamond 9.5 pistons and pins, Total Seal rings, Clevite stock clearance rod bearings, ARP studs, and a Cometic head gasket. I don't think the stock bottom end is going to handle 24psi and a 100shot, and a buttload of timing lol.

well what i meant was, people were saying, timing wise, that nitrous and methanol do the opposite

Well you add timing with meth and subtract timing with nitrous. So instead of 8 degrees advanced it's more like 18. Which makes a buttload of difference in power.

so if i'm pulling 24.5 at WOT. what would it be if i added nitrous? i'm a little confused

Do you seriously believe that you can make up for 100hp shot of nitrous on what is basically the same setup? There isn't going to be a 400+whp TVS balt without spray, at least not something that an average person would be able to replicate.

And, nice numbers. Glad to see someone do it right :lol:

Stock internals still, right?

actually, yes you can hit over 400whp with the tvs without nitrous
:)

so if i'm pulling 24.5 at WOT. what would it be if i added nitrous? i'm a little confused

Depending on the shot size, compression ratio, and fuel used, you'd probably want to back it down to about 12 degrees up top to start and maybe 8 at 3000rpm. Add meth or race gas and you can bump it up from there.

actually, yes you can hit over 400whp with the tvs without nitrous
:)

Maybe with race gas and higher comp ratio. Or a dynapack with a shady operator.

Depending on the shot size, compression ratio, and fuel used, you'd probably want to back it down to about 12 degrees up top to start and maybe 8 at 3000rpm. Add meth or race gas and you can bump it up from there.



Maybe with race gas and higher comp ratio. Or a dynapack with a shady operator.

a properly built engine is the first step.

Depending on the shot size, compression ratio, and fuel used, you'd probably want to back it down to about 12 degrees up top to start and maybe 8 at 3000rpm. Add meth or race gas and you can bump it up from there.



Maybe with race gas and higher comp ratio. Or a dynapack with a shady operator.

methanol is already there.

a properly built engine is the first step.

want to properly build my engine for me? lol.

but on a serious note. when i get moved in to....wherever i end up moving to (topke, kc, lees summit) me+you=building a 4cyl rear engine dragster. can pick up an engine ready chassis for like 6k

methanol is already there.



want to properly build my engine for me? lol.

but on a serious note. when i get moved in to....wherever i end up moving to (topke, kc, lees summit) me+you=building a 4cyl rear engine dragster. can pick up an engine ready chassis for like 6k

Start at around 11 degrees and work your way up on a 100 shot. You probably won't get more than 17 degrees if you're lucky. And that's pretty hard on the motor.

Area, you want to clue us in on what makes a properly built motor to make 400whp? Maybe stroking it to like 2.3L?

there has been someone on here that hit over 400whp with a tvs, however. he got greedy and nuked a cylinder wall. a few of us have put down some good numbers on a stock motor, but. the stock rings suffer quickly.

proper bearing specs, ring clearances, head porting. the little things that people miss.

NIce numbers.

Flow numbers on the head?

Peak psi?

Meth mix?

You can get away with a 7 gph on the 2.8"

actually, yes you can hit over 400whp with the tvs without nitrous
:)

I was waiting for you to come in this thread.

a properly built engine is the first step.

I was assuming a stock bottom end at least. I just don't feel that, aside from the rare few like you and the others in the high-power club, the average person cannot pull 400whp from an LSJ with the TVS and keep the stock motor together. Maybe for a little while but it won't last.

Obviously, if you can tighten up the bottom end, reduce blow-by, make comression more consistent, all that good stuff, power starts to show up where others can't seem to find it. Again, beyond the scope of the average person on here that thinks "I can buy a TVS and make 400hp". Hell, we've seen the surge of people getting them recently that can't break into the 300's.

I was assuming a stock bottom end at least. I just don't feel that, aside from the rare few like you and the others in the high-power club, the average person cannot pull 400whp from an LSJ with the TVS and keep the stock motor together. Maybe for a little while but it won't last.

Obviously, if you can tighten up the bottom end, reduce blow-by, make comression more consistent, all that good stuff, power starts to show up where others can't seem to find it. Again, beyond the scope of the average person on here that thinks "I can buy a TVS and make 400hp". Hell, we've seen the surge of people getting them recently that can't break into the 300's.


it's all in the tune from what I have heard

agreed. give it time, the numbers will start coming

the guy who broke 400whp on the tvs... want he running like 10.0:1 cr and like a 2.75 pulley on it?? he must have had real bad knock to crack a cyl sleeve

1. Flow numbers on the head?

2. Peak psi?

3. Meth mix?

4. You can get away with a 7 gph on the 2.8"

1. The intake side of the head was left stock. The exhaust side ended up peaking at about 190CFM on the stock springs/cams, which was still less than the intake side at around 255CFM.

2. 24psi by 7400rpm.

3. 80/20 mix.

4. Really? I put the 7 in and got all kinds of surge in the lower RPMs. Even tried adjusting the pump little by little.

I ran it on the 2.75" just had to lean it out a couple times to get it were i wanted it, i was also on a progressive kit though.

Yeah I need the progressive controller. Wanna hook me up :-)

pm coming your way

Pictures hosted on your gallery here please so I can see them! :)

That's a lot of pics to upload! Lol.

Dyno plot only then?

Dyno plot only then?

Lol ok. Here's two pics just for you.

http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/5/5/5/5/dscn0661.jpg
http://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/5/5/5/5/dscn0660.jpg

Happy? Lol.

Is that a fuel filter for the fuel solenoid? I'm thinking about getting one for both solenoids.

No. It's just a coupler.

Odd, never seen one before. Why not just run a short hose to the solenoid instead?

Nice clean install and good numbers! Thank you for the pics as I was real interested to see them. can't wait to see what she does at the track for you! :twothumbs

Odd, never seen one before. Why not just run a short hose to the solenoid instead?

I think you are confused? GM uses "test ports" in their fuel feed lines so you can test or bleed fuel pressure. I removed the schrader valve from the test port and since that same port also happens to be a -4AN male flare fitting, I screwed a 90 degree -4AN female to male fitting onto it. I then took a female to female -4AN coupler and threaded one end into the 90 degree fitting and the other into the inlet fitting of the fuel solenoid. No need to run an extra line then. I can just mount the solenoid right where it is. Make sense now?