Just got a brand new Nitrous Express kit for $540.(CAD) . It is almost a $1000 kit :lol:
Anyways, I am doing a install either today or next weekend so I will get some pics.

good luck man, post some pics. Can't wait :)

Be carefull bro, I hope it's not a lease.

Who cares if it is a lease??? I would rather spray on a lease than a car I own.

which other mods do you have?

you gotta give more details than that

what makes it an almost $1000 kit?

great opportunity to make a 'How To'. and yes. link us to the kit you got.

how-to will be helpful and good luck

you got the ss s/c or what? if you have the ss s/c i think you gotta run a dry shot cause the fuel mixed with the nitrous will eat up the supercharger fins, at least thats the way with my supercharger for the j-bodys

since when does fuel enter the supercharger?

since when does fuel enter the supercharger?

i always understood that wet kits mix fuel in with the nitrous and dry kit doesnt. i dunno i dont have any nitrous experiance.

With a custom plate between the intercooler and supercharger, could you spray a wet shot after the blower?

No, I have the 2.2 coupe so wet shot is my best option. I have no other mods as of yet (besides tint an a few interior neons). My next modifications will be a catback exaust system, new intake, wheel and tires and carbonfiber hood for weight reduction. After I get all of that I might start uprgrading the internals. No worries though, the highest shot I will give is a 50 and "maybe" 75 so I should be safe.

I don't even have anything to say this time, but I like to post in the nitrous threads cuz it has to do with me...oh I guess I do have something, Be Careful please, don't abuse it and it will treat you the same...if you do it will eat your wallet for lunch...

Well I am in Newfoundland (some of you might not even know this province exists) so as you can imagine it is hard to find this type of stuff around here and not to mention more expensive. When I priced a kit at one place down here it was $799 plus tax (15% tax here) so it runs pretty close to $1000. I will try to find a link to the exact kit.

Well I am in Newfoundland (some of you might not even know this province exists) so as you can imagine it is hard to find this type of stuff around here and not to mention more expensive. When I priced a kit at one place down here it was $799 plus tax (15% tax here) so it runs pretty close to $1000. I will try to find a link to the exact kit.


Foun a link http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/nitrous_express_efi_nitrous_systems/20218-15/

Same kit except mine came with a 10lb bottle and not a 15lb.

are you going to be getting any other accessories? window switch, bottle heater, purge?

Who cares if it is a lease??? I would rather spray on a lease than a car I own.

Thats why mine is a lease. I beat the living shit out of it.

POst pics and all the info you can! We definatley need more info on this.

I saw an Scion XB at Hot Import Nights with a eaton and he was spraying a wet shot through the intake so it was passing through the supercharged.

i heard it can eat away at the special coatings that are on the supercharger impellers and the linings of your cylinders...

i heard it can eat away at the special coatings that are on the supercharger impellers and the linings of your cylinders...

thats what i said :twothumbs

are you going to be getting any other accessories? window switch, bottle heater, purge?

Yes, I need to order the window switch, and purge valve before I acually use the nitrous. I'll see what the bottle pressure is like here ing the summer before I get the bottle heater.

thats what i said :twothumbs

Have you actually seen it? I have a feeling that's based on the earlier generation Eaton's. I spoke to the owner of Nytrex about it and they haven't had any issues with anyone spraying through the newer blowers at all. Supposedly it was the coating is what wears off, not the blades. I dunno, I could understand it happening, but I trust the sources I have that have not had this issue on the newer blowers.

Yes, I need to order the window switch, and purge valve before I acually use the nitrous. I'll see what the bottle pressure is like here ing the summer before I get the bottle heater.

doesn't matter, you'll still want a wamer. I live in FL and it sucked not having one for those first few weeks. spend the money now.

doesn't matter, you'll still want a wamer. I live in FL and it sucked not having one for those first few weeks. spend the money now.

Really? I guess it is more necessary than I thought. Thanks for the tips. I got most of the install done now. Never had time to get pics during the process, got home from work an I had limited daylight. BUT I will still take pics of everything afterwards and explain how I did it and so-on.

UPDATE!

Just finished wiring the solenoids, all lines are ran. Main fuel line is tapped through fuel pressure test valve. Arming switch is wired up.

To do list:
1. Mount tank
2. Install shark nozzle
3. Install WOT (wide open throttle) switch

Then I am done untill I get the RPM window switch, purge valve and bottle warmer.

Car is gonna boogie man, Nitrous is the poor man's weapon and the first time you hit it you'll be giggling like a little school girl, enjoy:lol:

Take off your supercharger and I bet some of the coating is already eaten away. I have some chips missing off mine on the leading edge of a rotor already and it's only 20k miles old. I don't run Nitrous Either. It smells like gas/oil as well. It's stock except a 3 inch pulley.

Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.

I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI

Take off your supercharger and I bet some of the coating is already eaten away. I have some chips missing off mine on the leading edge of a rotor already and it's only 20k miles old. I don't run Nitrous Either. It smells like gas/oil as well. It's stock except a 3 inch pulley.

Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.

I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI


These kind of comments are what make me want to build an injector plate for between the intercooler and blower. Anyone think this is feasible?

Take off your supercharger and I bet some of the coating is already eaten away. I have some chips missing off mine on the leading edge of a rotor already and it's only 20k miles old. I don't run Nitrous Either. It smells like gas/oil as well. It's stock except a 3 inch pulley.

Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.

I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
does that mean that the fuel jet size is going to be different than what is recommended by the specific manufacturer or is it only at 60psi for a SS/SC?

That TPS comment makes me think twice about the Zex kit now...

:edit:
And I guess I have found my answer out thanks to that chart.

I can't see how a small shot can ruin a rotor like that.. Right in the intake for easy removal. I woulnd want to start drilling wholes everywhere.. I would go with a 50 shot max.

Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.

I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI


Thanks for the tip, much appreciated. Do you know what the proper jetting is for my engine? The 2.2 Cobalt is not listed in the jetting chart.

if you're concerned contact NX directly, they will do the legwork for you

if you're concerned contact NX directly, they will do the legwork for you

lol, DUH. I am a idiot. I forgot about tech support :) :cool: :beer:

haha it happens.

I'm running the jets as noted in the book under Saturn for the 2.2 (same ecotec in the Ions and Cobalts) and have had no problems. It also notes the same fuel pressure of 50-60psi.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/schizzo941/jettinginfo.jpg

haha it happens.

I'm running the jets as noted in the book under Saturn for the 2.2 (same ecotec in the Ions and Cobalts) and have had no problems. It also notes the same fuel pressure of 50-60psi.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/schizzo941/jettinginfo.jpg

Perfect, thanks. Much apreciated bud. I guess it should be exactly the same for me. :thumb:

haha actually I"m running the jetting for the s-series, so I"m running a "rich" 75 shot. if you're overly concerned you can do the same (run a 24 fuel jet instead of 22), but I think you'll be ok. I'm looking to dyno within the next month or two and find out how much I"m gaining from this shot, and what my a/f is while on the bottle.

you're gonna love this stuff though man, I can tell already.

haha actually I"m running the jetting for the s-series, so I"m running a "rich" 75 shot. If you're overly concerned you can do the same (run a 24 fuel jet instead of 22), but I think you'll be ok. I'm looking to dyno within the next month or two and find out how much I"m gaining from this shot, and what my a/f is while on the bottle.

you're gonna love this stuff though man, I can tell already.

Am I that predictable? :lol: haha, yeah I think so too. I just finished installing the shark nozzle and i must say .... a bitch it was. (me in the driveway ---> :cussing:) lol. All I need to do now is mount the bottle brackets and I am done untill I order the GEN X 2 kit along with a widow switch. Oh yeah, the WOT switch is done too.

Be sure to post your dyno results when you get them.

Ahhh, everything is done :cssNET: Would it be safe to test this out before I get an RPM window switch? If so, how?

it's safe as long as everything is properly installed. just dont floor the throttle until your above 3000rpm and your good.

when you test it, do not have your bottle opened. when it arms it will stumble from the added fuel. at that point, it's safe to test with the nitrous as well. you don't want to find out the hard way that only one solenoid has actual clean power connections, or that the fuel is stuck closed by fluke.

when you test it, do not have your bottle opened. when it arms it will stumble from the added fuel. at that point, it's safe to test with the nitrous as well. you don't want to find out the hard way that only one solenoid has actual clean power connections, or that the fuel is stuck closed by fluke.

<<<EDIT>>>
Yeah, I already check for the fuel. But I just """"""DON'T""""" want to hit the rev limit and have the spark cut off with nitrous spraying into my engine. Do the rpm's shoot past really quick when the spray kicks in? Or will I have enough time to let off the gass before I hit the rev limit?

hard to say, this is the main reason to run your window switch. if you hit your limiter while spraying you get a nice "boom" reaction out of your action hahaha

seriously though, if you're concerned and don't want to risk damaging something, wait out for your switch to come in.

hard to say, this is the main reason to run your window switch. if you hit your limiter while spraying you get a nice "boom" reaction out of your action hahaha

seriously though, if you're concerned and don't want to risk damaging something, wait out for your switch to come in.


haha, yeah I think I will just wait. Better safe than sorry. Thanks man, you have been a great help to me with this topic. Have a good one. :beer: :cssNET:

Opps. I just edited my previous post. I meant to say I DON'T want to hit the rev limt. :red:

lol yeah I saw that, I was hoping it was a typo :D

no problem, hope it goes well for you

Well I am in Newfoundland (some of you might not even know this province exists) so as you can imagine it is hard to find this type of stuff around here and not to mention more expensive. When I priced a kit at one place down here it was $799 plus tax (15% tax here) so it runs pretty close to $1000. I will try to find a link to the exact kit.

Cheers Man,
im a newfie too!! im pricing a new zex nitrous kit for my SS S/C aswell, i'll see ya on the street!! Also, does anyone know how good the pistons are for HP, i heard 300 and 450, and 600, anyone really know? and were i can get performance pistons.. im eventually going to be getting a stage 5 kit which is good to 275 hp but if the pistons are only good to 300 hp and the zex kit will give me a 50 shot minimum thats 325 hp, bye bye pistons!!

holy triple post batman!

omfg this is gonna be sweet...orange, you have the exact setup im gonna have...cant wait to see how it goes for you good luck and enjoy!

EDIT: definately listen to ion he knows his shit and will look out for ya