Ok, I 'm catless, been fighting issues with Knock Retard on tunes that others in a different region and 93 octane fuel see no knock.

I want to blend in some 110 octane leaded race fuel (all I can find locally @ $5.56/gal), maybe 4 gals or so a tank to up the octane a bit to see if that solves the issue, or if I'm getting 'phantom' KR from a flaky sensor, ect.

Question is, will the leaded fuel contaminate any sensors like the exhaust 02 sensor?

Opinions appreciated.

Thanks.

Ok, I 'm catless, been fighting issues with Knock Retard on tunes that others in a different region and 93 octane fuel see no knock.

I want to blend in some 110 octane leaded race fuel (all I can find locally @ $5.56/gal), maybe 4 gals or so a tank to up the octane a bit to see if that solves the issue, or if I'm getting 'phantom' KR from a flaky sensor, ect.

Question is, will the leaded fuel contaminate any sensors like the exhaust 02 sensor?

Opinions appreciated.

Thanks.

It will shorten the life of the O2 sensors but I dont think one tank of a blend will cause any huge issues.

Please let us know your results, you`re a brave soul...

Please let us know your results, you`re a brave soul...

Agreed....most modern cars have big problems with leaded fuel, but if you are going to give it a shot, I am sure we would all appreciate a detailed analysis of your results.

Why not try a different tune? Maybe try a little less timing, or some more fuel?

I know you have tried alot, but if you don't mind, you could send me your map and some logs, I would take a look at it. Maybe if I get to the city we could get together and i could explore some options.

Please let us know your results, you`re a brave soul...

i was tuned on racegas before most people even bought their cars lol

and it will also shorten the life of your spark plugs

Why not try a different tune? Maybe try a little less timing, or some more fuel?

I know you have tried alot, but if you don't mind, you could send me your map and some logs, I would take a look at it. Maybe if I get to the city we could get together and i could explore some options.

I've tried down to .85 lambda up to .89, I had to cut the timing to about 13 degrees to kill all the WOT KR when catted.

I haven't tried that much since going catless. Loaded a 14* tune now to log this week.

I prob won't try the race fuel until next week. Gonna play with this tune some more.

i was tuned on racegas before most people even bought their cars lol

and it will also shorten the life of your spark plugs

Not too worried about the plugs, I'm used to burning those up from when I was a kid on leaded in the '65 Chevelle Malibu SS. Any sensor issues your way?

i wanna do it, too bad its going to clog my cat, spark plug, and spark plug.

i run 110 when i go to the track. i drain the 93 and run straight 110. usually go through 2 o2sensors a summer.

I've tried down to .85 lambda up to .89, I had to cut the timing to about 13 degrees to kill all the WOT KR when catted.

I haven't tried that much since going catless. Loaded a 14* tune now to log this week.

I prob won't try the race fuel until next week. Gonna play with this tune some more.


I mean, yeah, race fuel is good if you can tune for it, but there HAS to be something else wrong that the fuel itself won't cure. More octane in this case would be a bandaid of sorts.

I mean, yeah, race fuel is good if you can tune for it, but there HAS to be something else wrong that the fuel itself won't cure. More octane in this case would be a bandaid of sorts.

It is strange for some reason his car acts like it is on 91 octane all the time not 93 octane. I can get 14-15* of advance on 91 octane normally even at 12.8-12.9 A/F.

Tom, Just run it at 14* and 0.88-0.90 lambda. That would be far better than running at 0.83 lambda and 16*. Better to tune for the A/F that makes the most power and adjust timing to fit that A/F than to advance the crap out of the timing and then richen until the knock disappears. ;)

Yeah, I'm not giving up yet, just frustrated. I loaded up the 17* .9 lambda just to verify the KR is actually worse that lean. Same as the 14* tune, just more timing.

The only reason for the race fuel will be a test to see if the knock goes away or if I have a sensor issue picking up other hf vibrations somehow.

You guys are scanning knock retard, not total KR right?

Yeah, I'm not giving up yet, just frustrated. I loaded up the 17* .9 lambda just to verify the KR is actually worse that lean. Same as the 14* tune, just more timing.

The only reason for the race fuel will be a test to see if the knock goes away or if I have a sensor issue picking up other hf vibrations somehow.

You guys are scanning knock retard, not total KR right?

I scan both knock retard and total knock retard.

^^ As do I. Could it be that the knock sensitivity somehow got turned up on your car? Isn't there a way we can turn that down?

^^ As do I. Could it be that the knock sensitivity somehow got turned up on your car? Isn't there a way we can turn that down?

Not that I know of.

Hmm, i thought i saw that somewhere. Guess not. Do you think it could be a bad coil or something that is causing the knock?

is it bad to just throw in say c16 gas for a dyno run to see what it puts down? or do u need tuned for it just to run it that couple times to see good results?

cuz i was kinda interested in seeing what the car put down on 93 then race gas..

is it bad to just throw in say c16 gas for a dyno run to see what it puts down? or do u need tuned for it just to run it that couple times to see good results?

cuz i was kinda interested in seeing what the car put down on 93 then race gas..

The LSJ MIGHT adjust a little bit of timing, but not enough to make a noticeable difference. The LNF on the other hand probably will not pull any extra timing. (Not sure what motor you have, assuming LSJ?)

is it bad to just throw in say c16 gas for a dyno run to see what it puts down? or do u need tuned for it just to run it that couple times to see good results?

cuz i was kinda interested in seeing what the car put down on 93 then race gas..

Gains will be nearly non existant unless you retune your timing for the C-16. Not worth the effort IMO.

Hmm, i thought i saw that somewhere. Guess not. Do you think it could be a bad coil or something that is causing the knock?

I don't see any misfire, I would expect to see that with a flaky coilpack. I know it's not the plugs, downpipe or intake 'cause I had it before those mods too & also with the air box K&N drop in mod.

EDIT: Upping the timing 3* today, the KR is still 3* 200+ load above 5k rpm, WOT, no difference.
I'll add total KR to my scan and try again tomorrow. Race fuel Saturday for the ping test looks likely. ;)

Boost dropped a bit when I went catless but increasing the flow will cause the pressure to drop me thinks.

The LSJ MIGHT adjust a little bit of timing, but not enough to make a noticeable difference. The LNF on the other hand probably will not pull any extra timing. (Not sure what motor you have, assuming LSJ?)

yeah i have the LSJ ... my bad for not mentioning that

Gains will be nearly non existant unless you retune your timing for the C-16. Not worth the effort IMO.

ahh..that kinda sux.. but i understand it would change some things so it makes sense that id need a retune..hmm

yeah i have the LSJ ... my bad for not mentioning that



ahh..that kinda sux.. but i understand it would change some things so it makes sense that id need a retune..hmm

Yep the higher ignition temperature of the C-16 means that unless you adjust the ignition timing and maybe lean the A/F out a tad depending on where you are currently power loss can occur because the mixture will not have sufficient time to burn completely.

I don't see any misfire, I would expect to see that with a flaky coilpack. I know it's not the plugs, downpipe or intake 'cause I had it before those mods too & also with the air box K&N drop in mod.

EDIT: Upping the timing 3* today, the KR is still 3* 200+ load above 5k rpm, WOT, no difference.
I'll add total KR to my scan and try again tomorrow. Race fuel Saturday for the ping test looks likely. ;)

Boost dropped a bit when I went catless but increasing the flow will cause the pressure to drop me thinks.

Dang, almost makes me wonder if there is possibly a slightly clogged injector or fuel line/filter. I have had instances where I can't shake the knock ti I turn the car back off and back on. Its odd. I figure its just a whacky anomoly in the beta tuner. But yours is constant and predictable, yes?

Dang, almost makes me wonder if there is possibly a slightly clogged injector or fuel line/filter. I have had instances where I can't shake the knock ti I turn the car back off and back on. Its odd. I figure its just a whacky anomoly in the beta tuner. But yours is constant and predictable, yes?

WOT Lambda is dead on right after any pull starts. Stays on through the entire pull. Kinda doubt clogged injector, but keep the thoughts coming.

My KR was 3* today, except when I NLS 3-4, forgot the rev limiter was 7400, got some 4.5* KR during that shit. :)

I could take timing out of the whole curve, but then it wouldn't be the Terminator2 tune anymore. It's predictable, yes.

I'll send you a log & config via email from today. Can't send the tune, it isn't mine to disclose.

Isn't there a place online they will ship you 115 or something??

I just looked it up, www.buyracegas.com Sunoco 100oct $70.52/5gal....

Oh yeah, I'm sure there is. I just have to drive 30 miles round trip to get the 110 Leaded @ $5.56/gal., it's just not the direction I normally travel. I found it by accident cruising last weekend in the TA.

I used to buy 15% nitro r/c fuel online but the hazmat shipping today really ups the price.

hazmat is included

Yep the higher ignition temperature of the C-16 means that unless you adjust the ignition timing and maybe lean the A/F out a tad depending on where you are currently power loss can occur because the mixture will not have sufficient time to burn completely.

thats poor..the hell with it then lol

yes lead will poision the 02's
We'll use the inverse Nike saying. Just don't do it.
I can tell you right now that the LNF will hurt itself it you start adding timing beyond the factory settings below 2500 rpm.
"More torque More HP" has mentioned this to me numerous times.

I am a GM engineer and my opinions are my own.

Thanks for the feedback on the lead. The timing issue isn't adding more below 2500 rpm, it's seeing KR 3-4* >5k on the same tune others are running in a different region of the country, similar temps. Trying to rule out fuel or an anomaly with my LNF.

Come about 3 hours west and get some gas out here! IDK man... I'm not sure what it could be now. I am running 18* on .85 lambda. Now... you switched ECU's didn't you? Is the the stock one, or the backup? Wonder if its something not meshing between the car and ECU... its far fetched, but it could happen.

Actually I ended up tuning this one, my original stocker. I have a backup stock ECU for when I sell it and I sold the trifecta tuned one but flashed stock over it.

get a better tune
if that fails, try 100 octane unleaded
there are a few other options to resort to prior to trying leaded gas
a better tune comes to mind first ;)

get a better tune
if that fails, try 100 octane unleaded
there are a few other options to resort to prior to trying leaded gas
a better tune comes to mind first ;)

yeah theirs a speedway by me that has unleaded 100 oct i thought it said cam2 but isnt that leaded but if it is unleaded it shoudnt harm anything like the plugs or o2's right figured id try it once and see if theirs any gain if not ill just stick with the 93 vpower ive always used

Its not the tune. He tried a bajillion different things.

Hey man, are you having issues with knock at WOT in every gear or just 4th and 5th? Just curious...

The top of every gear beyond first above 5k rpm > 180% load or so. Don't know about 1st, it's gone too fast when I get on it even with 40% torque limit, it's smoke on command. I never tried logging 1st.

We're talking 3 - 4* of Knock retard, no audiable knock.

Edit: From Wikipedia...
Leaded gasoline contaminates the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. Most oxygen sensors are rated for some service life in the presence of leaded gasoline but sensor life will be shortened to as little as 15,000 miles depending on the lead concentration. Lead-damaged sensors typically have their tips discolored light rusty.

No cat to worry 'bout...Hmmmmm.

Its not the tune. He tried a bajillion different things.

If there's still knock, it's the tune. Although, there may be some other cause for knock. Some LSJ's had the downpipe come real close to the steering rack and under heavy load, the knock came on, as little as 1-2* even or as high as 13-15*. Then again, burst knock and tip in knock. Usually, it's the tune.

I was trying to watch it today while doing a pull, hard to do & keep my eyes on the road at 90, but none the less, it looks like it's burst knock, but the logs show the KR continuous once it starts. Watching the meters on the dashboard display, 3* of KR come & go. I do get a heavy vibration at times under load, so it may be sympathetic. I'll figure it out given enough time. The DP clears everything, I've been under & over it looking for anything that can vibrate.

Thanks for the input.

Please let us know your results, you`re a brave soul...

not really. there has been several gallons of leaded run through mine on several occasions. hes catless and is only running a few gallons. terminator has mentioned the only real issue to be "worried" about

do you have something to log with..??
that would be helpful.

I log with HP Tuners all the time.

Here's a recent pull, you can see the KR kick in at 5k and above, cutting the timing back from the 16 or so degrees commanded.

http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt32/iambroke2/Image1.jpg

If there's still knock, it's the tune. Although, there may be some other cause for knock. Some LSJ's had the downpipe come real close to the steering rack and under heavy load, the knock came on, as little as 1-2* even or as high as 13-15*. Then again, burst knock and tip in knock. Usually, it's the tune.

It is not his tune.

get a better tune
if that fails, try 100 octane unleaded
there are a few other options to resort to prior to trying leaded gas
a better tune comes to mind first ;)

Not the tune. He gets the same 3* of KR on 17* as 14* and it doesnt go away even running 12.6 A/F on his car.

It is not his tune.



Not the tune. He gets the same 3* of KR on 17* as 14* and it doesnt go away even running 12.6 A/F on his car.

what are you trying to say..??

what are you trying to say..??

He is getting 3* of knock retard on 17* of timing and also on 14* of timing so basically even if he pulls timing and richens it up it still knocks. It is not the tune it is either false knock or some issue with his car or the fuel in his area because he is running what is supposed to be 93 octane but he is getting more KR than others on 91 octane with the same timing tables.

with the larger heater core of the LNF's factory hi-res 02's it'll deal with the lead better, and it'll burn it off quicker once hes done.

the larger core'd unit i've been running in my lsj deals with lead just fine. I've pop'ed the slow response code many a time, only to burn a half tank of regular in it and it goes away.


any who, this issue sounds like something i saw a few years back with this motor. OP, what type and weight oil are you useing.

You missed the irony in my post......anyway, every car isn't the same. A tune for one won't always have the same results for others. They will be close but these cars are a PITA sometimes when it comes to tuning. Unless the LNF is vastly different from the others I'd suspect the tune needs to be tweaked or there is an external reason for the knock....something is hitting and making the sensor pick up knock. I had a SS/SC on the rollers and when we brought it up to speed, it made a sound that made the dyno operator shut it down early. We never heard that noise on the street either. come to find out, the downpipe was hitting the steering rack under engine load. We fixed that and the noise and kr went away.

You missed the irony in my post......anyway, every car isn't the same. A tune for one won't always have the same results for others. They will be close but these cars are a PITA sometimes when it comes to tuning. Unless the LNF is vastly different from the others I'd suspect the tune needs to be tweaked or there is an external reason for the knock....something is hitting and making the sensor pick up knock. I had a SS/SC on the rollers and when we brought it up to speed, it made a sound that made the dyno operator shut it down early. We never heard that noise on the street either. come to find out, the downpipe was hitting the steering rack under engine load. We fixed that and the noise and kr went away.


I understand that they are all not the same but his is the only one I have seen that on 93 octane knocks 3* on 14* of peak timing and 12.8-12.9 A/F that is what strikes me as odd because they dont normally knock on 14* with 91 octane and the same A/F. I venture to say he would be knocking on 10* of peak advance. :thumbsdow

Well, ~9 gals of 93 octane and 5 gals of 110 leaded cured the knock.

One pull this morning saw 17* advance at the top of second and ZERO KR and ZERO Total KR.

Like I said... It's the EPA gas around the rust belt up here. Damn, and I work at the refinery. LOL.

93 octane my ass.

I'll flog it on the way home to be sure.

with the larger heater core of the LNF's factory hi-res 02's it'll deal with the lead better, and it'll burn it off quicker once hes done.

the larger core'd unit i've been running in my lsj deals with lead just fine. I've pop'ed the slow response code many a time, only to burn a half tank of regular in it and it goes away.


any who, this issue sounds like something i saw a few years back with this motor. OP, what type and weight oil are you useing.

I've run Castrol Syntec 5w-30 in it since the first change at 1500 miles. 23K on it now.

that'll be an expensive habit......for the car that is ;)

Well, ~9 gals of 93 octane and 5 gals of 110 leaded cured the knock.

One pull this morning saw 17* advance at the top of second and ZERO KR and ZERO Total KR.

Like I said... It's the EPA gas around the rust belt up here. Damn, and I work at the refinery. LOL.

93 octane my ass.

I'll flog it on the way home to be sure.



I've run Castrol Syntec 5w-30 in it since the first change at 1500 miles. 23K on it now.

what i've seen in the past was this.

as the "iruis" modulates its self to control oil pressure to the cam phasers Vs engine oil pressure. they have been known to "freak out" at >+3 deg over OE from time to time as viscosity changes.

this motor was going to be run on a "green" or energy friendly 0w oil at first, but as oil temp rises Vs worn oil that pressure has a vary non-linear, un-charitable pressure loss.

once it started happening, it would continue until it wanted to stop. sometimes it required replacing it.

HPT scans wont show it as it only looks for both CMD'd changes on the CAN and low-speed updates.

it might sound wild, but i've watched this happen on engine stands. you can physically see it go down with a poly-carb valve cover.

this is 2nd on my list of bad shit caused by tunes, only behind people whom don't ramp the cam down from peak advance on throttle lift. that's shattered more phase units, and taped more intake valves then i care to count.


also, watch the lead on this motor(Eco's in general) the pistons are not hot-spot friendly like a forged unit. when you start to get deposits, and you will over time, it'll glow the pistons in the low velocity areas and be a big tuning head ache(random hesitation, plug killing, ect.). and engine killer, the cyl temps are hot enough as-is.

what i've seen in the past was this.

as the "iruis" modulates its self to control oil pressure to the cam phasers Vs engine oil pressure. they have been known to "freak out" at >+3 deg over OE from time to time as viscosity changes.

this motor was going to be run on a "green" or energy friendly 0w oil at first, but as oil temp rises Vs worn oil that pressure has a vary non-linear, un-charitable pressure loss.

once it started happening, it would continue until it wanted to stop. sometimes it required replacing it.

HPT scans wont show it as it only looks for both CMD'd changes on the CAN and low-speed updates.

it might sound wild, but i've watched this happen on engine stands. you can physically see it go down with a poly-carb valve cover.

this is 2nd on my list of bad shit caused by tunes, only behind people whom don't ramp the cam down from peak advance on throttle lift. that's shattered more phase units, and taped more intake valves then i care to count.

You mean when someone adds -3 to the intake cam warm tables to only the high load areas and doesnt smooth the changes into the lover load areas. I noticed my car can run more timing with less KR on the 0W-30 Mobile1 I was running before.

You mean when someone adds -3 to the intake cam warm tables to only the high load areas and doesnt smooth the changes into the lover load areas. I noticed my car can run more timing with less KR on the 0W-30 Mobile1 I was running before.

as you add positive advance (positive in the hpt table) you increase the amount of time and distance the cam has to travel, the car wants to make these changes in a fairly exact time, that's not tied to advance. so the more you increase advance, the faster it travels.

the same goes for its return, however with this faster speed you gain no more "force" to stop the cam, so it back travels more before being caught and re-centered.

do this enough / at the wrong time. you eat the valves.

only way to avoid this is to bump the table at a fairly linear rate as your peak increases. not many people do this. its sad.

as for the oil, well, your catching on more then most people.

as you add positive advance (positive in the hpt table) you increase the amount of time and distance the cam has to travel, the car wants to make these changes in a fairly exact time, that's not tied to advance. so the more you increase advance, the faster it travels.

the same goes for its return, however with this faster speed you gain no more "force" to stop the cam, so it back travels more before being caught and re-centered.

do this enough / at the wrong time. you eat the valves.

only way to avoid this is to bump the table at a fairly linear rate as your peak increases. not many people do this. its sad.

as for the oil, well, your catching on more then most people.


That is the only way I cam tune. Small linear changes and I smooth those in so that as the loads decrease as you release the throttle sudden the phasers have to make that change very rapidly so if it is a drastic one appartently that is what is causing the crushed valves.

I noticed no flow improvements with the 'cam tune' from Term so I reverted back to stock cam tables. Valve damage scared me when I read about it a while back.

I don't follow why oil viscosity would let you run more advance though. Would a 10w30 be advantagous over 5w30 or not? Enlighten me.

P.S. Flogged it on the way home and saw only minor 1* tip in KR tonight. 0KR at WOT to redline in 2nd & 3rd a few times. Crawled around under the hood looking for any rubbing, found where they kissed the firewall putting in the engine. :facepalm: Heat wrapped lines were rubbing the firewall behind the turbo, so repositioned them a bit. Nothing major.

Always a great night when something is learned.

06 Black or Term... I'm not sure if i follow what you are saying about the cams. I run -3* compared to stock on my warm intake cam, and (not sure if this actually works) +3* on my warm exhaust cam tables. I run these from 2k rpm to redline, at 100% load and up. Is this fatal? I am kinda worried about it now...

If I am understanding you correctly, I should just smooth this out to the rest of the table, correct? I had it that way, but a comment from a fellow member (whom I have come to distrust their advice) brought me to change it back to the way I have it now.

I noticed no flow improvements with the 'cam tune' from Term so I reverted back to stock cam tables. Valve damage scared me when I read about it a while back.

I don't follow why oil viscosity would let you run more advance though. Would a 10w30 be advantagous over 5w30 or not? Enlighten me.

P.S. Flogged it on the way home and saw only minor 1* tip in KR tonight. 0KR at WOT to redline in 2nd & 3rd a few times. Crawled around under the hood looking for any rubbing, found where they kissed the firewall putting in the engine. :facepalm: Heat wrapped lines were rubbing the firewall behind the turbo, so repositioned them a bit. Nothing major.

It seems that because of the lower viscosity of 0W-30 over 5W-30 that the cam phasers can react faster to changes in cam angle that helps prevent KR. Also, the 0W-30 reduces internal friction a tad which helps as well.

06 Black or Term... I'm not sure if i follow what you are saying about the cams. I run -3* compared to stock on my warm intake cam, and (not sure if this actually works) +3* on my warm exhaust cam tables. I run these from 2k rpm to redline, at 100% load and up. Is this fatal? I am kinda worried about it now...

If I am understanding you correctly, I should just smooth this out to the rest of the table, correct? I had it that way, but a comment from a fellow member (whom I have come to distrust their advice) brought me to change it back to the way I have it now.

Make sure you ramp those changes back down especially the high load and rpm areas to the lower load high rpm areas so that when you lift all of a sudden to shift the phasers dont have to make such a drastic change to the cam angle.

Cool, thanks! Would I just step it down 1* at a time? Or should I make it even more gradual than that?

Cool, thanks! Would I just step it down 1* at a time? Or should I make it even more gradual than that?

I did mine at 0.5* increments I might even do 0.3* increments just to make sure.

I'm seeing flow improvment with cam timing experimentation. Not leaps and bounds but 1-1.5lb/min VE here and there. I've been mostly focused on the exhaust cam thus far. I have no dyno results to base what I'm doing in reality yet, but I do know whats worked for me on other vehicles. Never saw "massive" gains on the MR2 with cam tuning either, but every little bit counts. Think in the 5-10-15hp range.... also allows you to shift that powerband around too. My focus has been trying to improve top-end performance.

I do a lot of 60-100 and 70-100 comparisons and I feel like I'm making headway, but who knows.

I also happen to run 0W-30, but have been since before owning HPT so I have no basis of comparison for phase change. I'm a firm believer in M1 0W-30 (one of the best oils they have right now IMO) and run it in all of my vehicles.

Next change I'll go for the 0w-30 Mobil then, it'll be getting cold here by then anyway. I usually change it by 40% life left. I need all the KR help I can get.

My car smells like the past when I get on it now. Been a long time since I ran catless & leaded. :)

$5.56/gal is too steep a price to pay for the Renegade 110 but at least the experiment showed it CAN run 17* no KR on the right fuel. I'll work on the tune more after I get this tank ran out and keep looking for any vibration issues.

Where are the Knock sensor(s) located?

mobil oil, in general, is total shit here in the states.

the USDM Green/Blue label stuff is utter junk. Grade3 base-stock at best.

the only oil I run in my cars any more is the now Total, used to be ELF stuff. they call it energy 9000 by total here.

5w-40 viscosity and its cheaper then Mobil 1. Not as good as RedLine (best stuff, period. almost 100% caster oil) but its not $12qt eaither.

the only good Mobil here in the state is the euro-car, black label 0w-40. its hot protection and film strength are kinda shitty. but much better then there normal 5w-30, ect.

While I general agree with you on US M1 products, I've done a lot of UOA's on M1 0w-30 and it seems to be a step above their other stuff. Need to do one on this car, but I don't see how they'd come back much different than my Volvo I traded in. You're not going to get super long drain intervals on this oil, but oh well thats not my bag anyway.

Honestly I'm not keeping this car forever, so if its no the purest of pure synth stocks......... oh well. We are talking about a Cobalt here and I'm in BFE Iowa. Besides going into Wal-Mart and getting 5Q of this for $22.00 and shopping/shipping oil around its my best option. I'm doing a lot better than most goons out there who'll pour in Kendall 10w-30 in the car dead of winter. :lol:

If you're really bored with life, come on over to bobistheoilguy and check out some of the results of M1 0w-30.

Today is the last day of my test. I'll be on fumes by the time I hit home to fill up with 93 again. No KR on the ~100 octane blend during many pulls this week. No CEL's. O2 response & fuel trims ok.

Inside of the pipe is grey instead of black when I get home. :) Renegade 110 octane.

I wouldn't do it often, but 2 gals in a half tank for the track is a possibility in the future.

I can't wait to get HPT..... I want to get into all this stuff....