What are the opinoins on it? It doesnt have t-bolt clamps, but they claim you dont need them. Anyone bust the piping due to lack of the clamps?

What are the opinoins on it? It doesnt have t-bolt clamps, but they claim you dont need them. Anyone bust the piping due to lack of the clamps?

From experience in dealing with Turbos...its always best to just ahead on purchase the T-clamps on your own. Its better to have peace of mind then a boost leak

If you want them to hold get V-band clamps.... hold better and won't come off

I installed T-bolt clamps on mine when I got it for the intercooler and vertical coupler. I used the worm clamps at the turbo with no issues. The CP attaches to the manifold with a mount so the pipe is going to move with the engine/turbo. More stress from moving on the IC and vert section IMO. I would have used t-bolts for all but I got the wrong size. :(

No issues with it popping off the turbo and I have spiked 30 psi before.

I love mine except i had a little tiny pinhole in mine but i talked to injen and they're replacing it for free other then that mine has blown off twice when i first put it on cause i didn't have the pipe's in the coupler right but it's been just fine since i did it

anyone have the black one please post up some engine bay pics!

Heres a turbo trick from way back...

Silcone couplers... spray the pipes outside with hairspray and slide the couplers over them... as the hairspray dries makes a sticky bond keeping them in place!

Tbolts or Vbands to keep them on from there!

no pics?

No black here, sorry.

http://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=65448&catid=member&imageuser=31219

my injen CP should be here this week, im pretty exited. didnt know they didnt come with T-bolt clamps though :(

because at 3-5 bucks per clamp the price would be higher! Get on ebay and buy yourself some... you can generally find them pretty cheap there!

I got my vbands on there for 3.50 each shipped

vbands > tbolts

you can pick them up at autozone too. im selling my dejon for pretty cheap so i may just steal the T clamps off that

you can't get vbands at autozone... tbolts yes.

If you want them not to slip... get vbands

Injen CP is the sex, but the couplers for the CP are a bit shorter then I would like. There really isnt any room for error, they have to be perfect or i can see them popping off. Put T-bolt clamps on their to hold them snug, but seems like my car just hates me lately and just wants to have problem after problem. havent hit boost with these charge pipes on but im hoping it will hold well. just tryign not to blow my car up since its throwing a lean code after i put my stock DP on. took my O2 out today and cleaned it off and put it back in, seeing if all codes go away. am noticing a big of a random hesitation under light acceleration when i drive, happened bad yesterday, believe its misfiring that im feeling, dont really know, dont know why its happening or whats causing it, just hoping it goes away. went in and tightened all clamps and MAF screws and couples and made everythign as snug as i can get it. tightened my O2 sensor real tight. Gonna see what happens, do NOT wanna go to dealer. but i need to go there for other stupid problems anyways

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52/l2enagade007/Mobile%20Uploads/1105091202b.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52/l2enagade007/Mobile%20Uploads/1105091203.jpg

you guys having any problems with those CPs hitting the hood? It looks like they would. Just curious.

you guys having any problems with those CPs hitting the hood? It looks like they would. Just curious.

Nope. No problems with it at all. It's been on there for around 5 or 6k miles.

you guys having any problems with those CPs hitting the hood? It looks like they would. Just curious.

No problems here either. The bracket that attaches to the intake manifold seems to keep the CP in the proper position.



For those of you guys with the Injen CP's do you notice any signs of a boost/vacum leak I think I may nottice a tiny one:

Idle seems perfectly steady on the Tachometer however sometimes I can hear it fluctuate ever so slightly
Air/Fuel Guage (On the RPD) does however jump around a little bit at idle once the car is at operating temperature maybe +/- 0.3

Is this normal? Is there any way to test for a vacum/boost leak easily? I used T-Bolt clamps as opposed to the worm ones that came with the kit and they are all nice and tight, maybe I should take them all of and use the hairspray trick? :(

I have this piping and got the following for clamps (top ones):

http://turbohoses.com/Clamp.htm

I had it pop off once after my GM Stage 1 was installed because I didn't have them tightened down enough...these are some heavy duty clamps! Since I got them tightened down all the way, they have not budged!

I'd recommend this combination to anyone who wants more reliability from the CP and better looks under the hood...

No problems here either. The bracket that attaches to the intake manifold seems to keep the CP in the proper position.



For those of you guys with the Injen CP's do you notice any signs of a boost/vacum leak I think I may nottice a tiny one:

Idle seems perfectly steady on the Tachometer however sometimes I can hear it fluctuate ever so slightly
Air/Fuel Guage (On the RPD) does however jump around a little bit at idle once the car is at operating temperature maybe +/- 0.3

Is this normal? Is there any way to test for a vacum/boost leak easily? I used T-Bolt clamps as opposed to the worm ones that came with the kit and they are all nice and tight, maybe I should take them all of and use the hairspray trick? :(

The closed loop operation of the O2 ckt. keeps the STFT's bouncing around all the time about twice a second. It's normal. With HPT I can see the idle rpm vary around 15-20 rpm. No rpd, but can't see it on the tach. They may have it dampened on the rpd.

So your saying this is normal correct? And just to clarify closed loop operation is when the engine is at prooper operating temperature and running normally and the O2 sensor is constantly adjusting the Air/Fuel ratio correct?

I don't know if this was present before my CP and now that I got the CP it's all in my head as I am worried about a boost/vacum leak or if it got worse/more noticable when I got the CP.

It all looks normal to me.

Injen CP is the sex, but the couplers for the CP are a bit shorter then I would like. There really isnt any room for error, they have to be perfect or i can see them popping off. Put T-bolt clamps on their to hold them snug, but seems like my car just hates me lately and just wants to have problem after problem. havent hit boost with these charge pipes on but im hoping it will hold well. just tryign not to blow my car up since its throwing a lean code after i put my stock DP on. took my O2 out today and cleaned it off and put it back in, seeing if all codes go away. am noticing a big of a random hesitation under light acceleration when i drive, happened bad yesterday, believe its misfiring that im feeling, dont really know, dont know why its happening or whats causing it, just hoping it goes away. went in and tightened all clamps and MAF screws and couples and made everythign as snug as i can get it. tightened my O2 sensor real tight. Gonna see what happens, do NOT wanna go to dealer. but i need to go there for other stupid problems anyways



I know this is far fetched....but you think your car is TELLING YOU SOMETHING

Post up your codes...I'm sure the fix is something easy that has been done to the car. Check for boost leaks, check for intake leaks (especially w/ the dejon intake)

oh trust me i know its telling me something. The codes are: P2195 <- pops up 2x, P2096

I just got my injen cp a couple days ago and I def. agree that the couplers could be a little longer, it took me a little bit to get them just right. I still have the worm clamps on mine and I've boosted to 24psi a few times since with no problems. I'm getting the T clamps next week, hope the worms will hold up till then...

I too have the injen charge pipes, with supplied worm gears and have been pushing 25-27psi through them for the last 5,000 miles with no issues.