Alright I finally got the INTENSE Stage 4 w/2.5" pulley :cssNET: !! I bought a Fujita CAI filter to make my Air-Box Mod and I got a Scan Gauge. Well I definately noticed an increasae in power! My boost went from 10-psi to 16.2-psi. I had to take out my CAI (kept throwing P0171-lean code). Unfortunatly I never got a base run but I currently run 272-HP and ???-TQ but thats at the crank.....so with 13% drivetrain loss I'm seeing about 237. IS THIS ACCURATE? Doesn't seem right to me. What are you all getting with similar set-ups? Or have I forgotten something? I see Knock (0 - 4.0 and seen as high as 6) depending on RPM & Gear & Speed. Is this safe.....I know what knock is but, I don't know what's safe.

Todd's been a great help w/ everything but I want to see if I'm the only one and want to see where you all are at.

SO with:

S-4 w/2.5" & CAI = 238-HP @ 17.3-PSI
S-4 w/2.5" = 237 @ 16.2-PSI

INTENSE States:

S-4 = 265-HP @ 17-PSI

Alright I finally got the INTENSE Stage 4 w/2.5" pulley :cssNET: !! I bought a Fujita CAI filter to make my Air-Box Mod and I got a Scan Gauge. Well I definately noticed an increasae in power! My boost went from 10-psi to 16.2-psi. I had to take out my CAI (kept throwing P0171-lean code). Unfortunatly I never got a base run but I currently run 272-HP and ???-TQ but thats at the crank.....so with 13% drivetrain loss I'm seeing about 237. IS THIS ACCURATE? Doesn't seem right to me. What are you all getting with similar set-ups? Or have I forgotten something? I see Knock (0 - 4.0 and seen as high as 6) depending on RPM & Gear & Speed. Is this safe.....I know what knock is but, I don't know what's safe.

Todd's been a great help w/ everything but I want to see if I'm the only one and want to see where you all are at.

SO with:

S-4 w/2.5" & CAI = 238-HP @ 17.3-PSI
S-4 w/2.5" = 237 @ 16.2-PSI

INTENSE States:

S-4 = 265-HP @ 17-PSI

Those numbers are similar to what I saw a SS dyno with the Stage 5 tune, 2.5" pulley, and 60 lb injectors. He was also getting similar amounts of knock.

Similair numbers as 237-HP @ 16.2-PSI? What did he do? The only difference between Stage 4 and Stage 5 is the Ported s/c housing. PCM's are the same.

Similair numbers as 237-HP @ 16.2-PSI? What did he do? The only difference between Stage 4 and Stage 5 is the Ported s/c housing. PCM's are the same.
His hp numbers were ranged from 241-248 but I don't know what the psi was. Also, he didn't have the ported sc housing.

There has to ba a reason why mine isn't at 260-270 as there website states. Now I read GM rates there drivetrain loss at 17%...so that makes me around 225hp. These numbers don't make sense. Shouldn't my crank read around 320-ish to see 265 hp? Little help INTENSE. e-mail sent

Yeah your numbers seem low bro. I only have GM Stage 2 and a CAI and I put down 242whp. With a 17% drivetrain loss that would put me at 283 crank horsepower.
Stage 4 has to be more than that IMO!

how are you reading your numbers. what kind of dyno. I hope your not talking about your scan gauge.

Damn I put down more stock with just an airbox mod.

Let me make sure I get this out....I'm using the scan gauge and friends hand held thingy we are getting the same numbers 272 hp.....but that's at the crank.....right? I know someone is going to slam me about reading numbers off a scan gauge so....go ahead and let me have it....be informative though

dude I beleive Intense said that those are possible numbers. Not definite numbers , two of the same cars with the same upgrades can produce different numbers.

Let me make sure I get this out....I'm using the scan gauge and friends hand held thingy we are getting the same numbers 272 hp.....but that's at the crank.....right? I know someone is going to slam me about reading numbers off a scan gauge so....go ahead and let me have it....be informative though

Actually the scan gauge is not that far off from real numbers. At least not as far off as these numbers show.

You need to take it to an actual dyno and get it tuned. I wouldn't use the other numbers. INTENSE even states that their tunes are not calibrated for aftermarket intakes.

THANKS, I knew about the CAI but I though I'd give it a try. I asked INTENSE to adjust for CAI but they said they couldn't and to go get a dino-tune. Also the scan gauge reads CRANK HP right??

And w/ 2.5" Pulley shouldn't I see 17-19 PSI? Why do I only see 16 PSI?

could be the heat. Could also be atmospheric pressure.

THANKS, I knew about the CAI but I though I'd give it a try. I asked INTENSE to adjust for CAI but they said they couldn't and to go get a dino-tune. Also the scan gauge reads CRANK HP right??

And w/ 2.5" Pulley shouldn't I see 17-19 PSI? Why do I only see 16 PSI?

Yes, find someone with HP Tuners who can tune your car on a dyno, you'll maximize your setup that way. You'll be happy you did!

As for the boost, are you getting any belt slip?

THANKS, I knew about the CAI but I though I'd give it a try. I asked INTENSE to adjust for CAI but they said they couldn't and to go get a dino-tune. Also the scan gauge reads CRANK HP right??

And w/ 2.5" Pulley shouldn't I see 17-19 PSI? Why do I only see 16 PSI?

Yeah it reads crank horsepower.
And yes you should see around 17-19psi with a 2.5"

I don't know how to find out......and if I did what can I do about that. I have the oversized tensioner pulley.

I don't know how to find out......and if I did what can I do about that. I have the oversized tensioner pulley.

I don't know bro. Honestly your best bet is to get Intense on the phone and explain what's going on.

I don't know how to find out......and if I did what can I do about that. I have the oversized tensioner pulley.

Look for black dust by the supercharger. Two things will work, if you are getting slip. The supercharger spacer from INTENSE, or a smaller belt (the belt for GM's stage 2 kit). INTENSE has these also.

Nope...no black dust. I e-mailed INTENSE and I told them I'm not an expert at this stuff.....I should have said I'm a fricken moron so please break it down for me. Maybe you all can break it down for me.

INTENSE wrote:

The scangauge can only read MAP for boost which pegs at 2 times atmospheric pressure so it may not be reading the higher numbers. Horsepower appears to be higher than our dynos have shown but that could be due to the algorithm the scanguage uses to calculate it or you may just have a superior car.

Nope...no black dust. I e-mailed INTENSE and I told them I'm not an expert at this stuff.....I should have said I'm a fricken moron so please break it down for me. Maybe you all can break it down for me.

INTENSE wrote:

The scangauge can only read MAP for boost which pegs at 2 times atmospheric pressure so it may not be reading the higher numbers. Horsepower appears to be higher than our dynos have shown but that could be due to the algorithm the scanguage uses to calculate it or you may just have a superior car.

Superior car? WTF? Your numbers are lower than they should be. What are they talking about? The numbers are too low and the boost is too low. I don't get it bro.....sorry
Maybe they misunderstood what you were saying.

Nope...no black dust. I e-mailed INTENSE and I told them I'm not an expert at this stuff.....I should have said I'm a fricken moron so please break it down for me. Maybe you all can break it down for me.

INTENSE wrote:

The scangauge can only read MAP for boost which pegs at 2 times atmospheric pressure so it may not be reading the higher numbers. Horsepower appears to be higher than our dynos have shown but that could be due to the algorithm the scanguage uses to calculate it or you may just have a superior car.

To sum it up for you, it's basically the same thing I said. Don't use that gauge for your horsepower, it's not reliable enough. The best thing you can do at this point is to take your car to someone who knows how to tune these cars, and tune it on the dyno (and street). Rob is the best guy I can recommend, I don't know how far you are from him. Besides, dyno's are just for tuning. Use them to get your car dialed in and get the fueling right, but the track is what actually shows your cars true performance.

I think INTENSE thought I was talking about 272HP being WHP.

I think my only option is to get a dino/tune done. After that I'll see what happens.

what should my AFR be? with CAI!

From what I've seen, these cars like it close to 12.0.

Installed the GM Stage 2 belt but no luck! I saw (quickly) 16.7 then it dropped back to 16.0psi I shouldn't get that much belt slippage with this belt should I?

I removed my sc and checked, checked and re-checked the by-pass valve and ALL seals. Everything seems fine. I re-assembled the car and went for a drive: 272hp @ 16psi (SCAN-GAUGE). Looks like I'm stuck with these numbers Also trird the boost by-pass mod....didn't help.

Have you called Intense for help? Are they walking you through anything? I was seriously considering buying the same thing but now I'm not so sure.

I have a stock intake, 2.5" with everything else in the Stage 4...two weeks ago I went to a dyno and only put down 220whp!!! (this was before installing the LFP HE) I get 21.5psi. I emailed them yesterday and all I got back was that they could get me in for dyno time. Nothing else about finding what is wrong of why I'm at 220whp on a dynojet. When I did the testing with the 2.8" and 42.5s, I was at 249.5!

:cussing:

I have a stock intake, 2.5" with everything else in the Stage 4...two weeks ago I went to a dyno and only put down 220whp!!! (this was before installing the LFP HE) I get 21.5psi. I emailed them yesterday and all I got back was that they could get me in for dyno time. Nothing else about finding what is wrong of why I'm at 220whp on a dynojet. When I did the testing with the 2.8" and 42.5s, I was at 249.5!

:cussing:

You serious?!? At least you're in the same state as them.

intense is starting to look really shady if you dont live in ohio all there doing is sending out pcms its not gonna work EVERYCAR is completly different so for them to put these kits out there is gonna be big problems too many different parts to try and make it compatible with buy hp tuners and tune it yourself thats the only way your gonna see 270 whp especially if you cant get rob to tune it , these cars are supposed to be easy to get into the 12's everyone is having a bitch of a time its because everyone thinks they can go the same route as someone on the net CUSTOM TUNE IS THE WAY TO GO DO IT YOURSELF , Intense is great and all but are they gonna know how it is in TEXAS and how my shit needs to be tuned if you dont know anything about cars go with them if you know shit and you live far away get your ass on the research board and learn how to tune and DO IT RIGHT YOURSELF those are my 2 cents

You serious?!? At least you're in the same state as them.

Yeah but that means more $$$$. I know 3 other LSJs that I'm going in with to get HP Tuners...that will only cost me $160 and going up to INTENSE will cost me $175 to tune it. I'd rather have full access to it all the time than a one time hour thing. I paid for the Stage 5 tune though...I'm losing by lengths to a Cobalt SS with I/H/E and Stage 2...but with all the shit I have that shouldn't be happening!

hmmm... there are people who say it works awesome and then there are people who are not getting what they thought... was the crankshaft variation relearn done?

like i said by hp tuners and do it yourself if you dont live in oh TRUST ME spend 600 dollars its worth it

hmmm... there are people who say it works awesome and then there are people who are not getting what they thought... was the crankshaft variation relearn done?

I didn't have to do the CASE learn because I went up there to INTENSE's shop and they just flashed the PCM...I think the CASE learn is only when you swap PCMs.

I think it has to do with the model used for tuning and year. Stage 4 and 5 were Rob Archer's and his is a Cobalt but not sure of the year. There is a difference between the Cobalt and RL in the electronics and then the 04 RL is different than all other RLs.

i never bought anything from intense for my grand prix either but grand prix products werent the INFAMOUS "STAGED KITS" Intense has their grand prix shit down there running the fastest one in the country its just tough to tune a car that is 1200 miles away with different atmospheric pressure and temperature much less humidity cmon your gonna get maybe 75% of the full results AT BEST buy hp tuners and tune it yourself it gets you knowledge also makes you feel good about everything you acheive

its just tough to tune a car that is 1200 miles away with different atmospheric pressure and temperature much less humidity

I live 75 miles away from their shop...so pretty much all that isn't a good reason why I'm at 220whp...

then you my friend have a fucked up car go back to stock and start over

I live 75 miles away from their shop...so pretty much all that isn't a good reason why I'm at 220whp...

There has to be something going on. Maybe you should set up an appointment for us to look over it.

the low boost and whatnot can be changed due to environmental conditions.

Example: Temperature, Altitude, Humidity, etc.

or theres somethin wrong with yer car.

There has to be something going on. Maybe you should set up an appointment for us to look over it.

Well my main concern is did Rob have his 3.5" intake on when he did the testing? I was there that night but left before he got up on the dyno so I didn't know but that would make sense because the MAF tables are different slightly between the LT1 MAF and the stock MAF for the LSJ...

I'm wondering if the tune for a redline is different for a tune for a cobalt.. i wouldn't think there would be any difference because 1 is made out of plastic and the other is not. same car! I have a 2005 and ordered Stage 4 with a 2.5" pulley but i haven't gotten it yet :( I paid for the ups 2nd day air and it's still not here.. intense said it was sent out on the 15th..ups blows

I'm wondering if the tune for a redline is different for a tune for a cobalt.. i wouldn't think there would be any difference because 1 is made out of plastic and the other is not. same car! I have a 2005 and ordered Stage 4 with a 2.5" pulley but i haven't gotten it yet :( I paid for the ups 2nd day air and it's still not here.. intense said it was sent out on the 15th..ups blows

You would think they're not different they really are. The VSS is different between Saturns even.

You would think they're not different they really are. The VSS is different between Saturns even.


Maybe it was flashed with a different lsj?

I was thinking it was flashed with a lower stage pcm. Scott is starting to walk me through it. I think I will buy HP tuners if WE can't figure out the problem. I live in California so going to Ohio would be a little far for me.

So far he has checked the following:

"1. Loose supercharger belt - you've already ruled this out by installing the GM Stage 2 kit belt. Just to be sure, can you verify that you actually installed a GM Stage 2 kit belt, and not another stock belt? The correct GM Stage 2 kit belt part number is 12597993 or 6DPK1767. Both of these numbers are written on the side of the belt in white ink.

2. No oversized tensioner - are you sure that we shipped and that you installed the 3.0" oversized supercharger tensioner pulley? This increases belt tension and wrap - both of which serve to eliminate supercharger belt slippage.

3. Boost bypass adjustment - have you attempted to adjust this in any way? Does it appear to be closing fully? If this is incorrectly adjusted, it could be stuck partially open and this would result in limited boost, which would then result in limited horsepower."

Reply:
"

1. SC belt - I’ve installed GM S-2 belt (GM# 12597993) 6-rib 1767mm. The belt seems to be routed correctly; no squeaking nor black dust present.

Oversized tensioner - 76mm (3.0” # 38009) is noticeably bigger than stock 2.5”. The GM S-2 belt was a BITCH to get over this.

Boost by-pass - I’ve tried stock, the boost by-pass mod, and re-assembling the by-pass valve. All seemed to have no improvement. I’m currently stock in this area. I once seen my boost almost reach 17-psi but was quickly reduced to 16-psi flat. I think it was after I tried the by-pass mod. From there I then decided to rebuild the by-pass valve; thinking I was getting a leak somewhere. "

That's all the checks for now but we will continue on monday.

I think the tables might be different for a CSS compared to a IRL. I'm at 220whp!!! WTF?! I have the 60s and 2.5...the only thing that I have that the Stage 4 with 2.5 is a 2.75" Dezod exhaust!

Oh and I keep throwing the 0171 (system lean) code! If I'm in second and give it gas...I don't really go anywhere until I hit 4000rpm! Its as if I don't have enough fuel going into the system or something!

As far as any of those troubleshooting...I don't have any problem matching those. Belt is fine with larger idler pulley and no boost by pass.

all I have is the S-4w/2.5". I get 272 Crank HP( ~220WHP) w/16psi. I don't even know where to start looking for the problem.......maybe send my PCM back to INTENSE to have them RE-program it. IDK

I think the tables might be different for a CSS compared to a IRL. I'm at 220whp!!! WTF?! I have the 60s and 2.5...the only thing that I have that the Stage 4 with 2.5 is a 2.75" Dezod exhaust!

Oh and I keep throwing the 0171 (system lean) code! If I'm in second and give it gas...I don't really go anywhere until I hit 4000rpm! Its as if I don't have enough fuel going into the system or something!

As far as any of those troubleshooting...I don't have any problem matching those. Belt is fine with larger idler pulley and no boost by pass.


if your running a CAI they did not program the PCM to allow for that. That could possibly be why u are getting that code. They state on their website to use the stock intake

if your running a CAI they did not program the PCM to allow for that. That could possibly be why u are getting that code. They state on their website to use the stock intake

Dude...I know...several of my posts I reiderate that I HAVE A STOCK INTAKE. For christ sakes, I did the damn testing for them with the 2.8 and 42.5 and was the first they even tested HP Tuners on.

Hey vandy0419---->> You ging back to INTENSE for them to check your car?? We have the EXACT same numbers, mods, and problems.

Edit: I'm going to buy HP Tuners if INTENSE walks me through the tuning, and helps me fix the problem

Hey vandy0419---->> You ging back to INTENSE for them to check your car?? We have the EXACT same numbers, mods, and problems.

I don't know, I think I'll just use my money to go in on HP Tuners and get someone's tune flashed on it that no one has had problems with.

I have the original GM flash and thought of doing that. I decided that I should learn how to tune.

I'm going to ask around some people I know and see if they know of any differences between the RL and Cobalt flashes...

that sounds good.....I'm going to do the same for now

Well talked with a few guys on the RL forums and it ends up INTENSE doesn't do much with the VE table and that is what everyone else is changing almost immediately.

I was under the impression that the VE table only comes in to use if the maf fails....

I'm buying HPT tomorrow depending on scott or todd's response. WOW that crap is expensive. 650+shipping

I'm buying HPT tomorrow depending on scott or todd's response. WOW that crap is expensive. 650+shipping

I'm fortunately going in on it with 3 other people so its less than $170 each

is that for the Pro version?

is that for the Pro version?

Yeah...there you can hook up a wideband and it will read it out on HP Tuners...

Alright INTENSE though I might be over-reving the sc and recommended me to down grade to a 2.6" or 2.7". SO.........I bought a 2.6" pulley and ......even worse than I thought ..... 14 psi!! I removed ALL parts of the stage 4 checked them and re-installed them. I, once again, ripped apart and re-installed the sc and by-pass valve.

Before the downgrade I COMPLETELY bypassed the by-pass valve. I went for a quick ride and my car shit it-self. Said something like "torque managment power reduced" I had NO POWER and shitty idle. I shut it off waited a minute and turned it back on. I was able to make it home. The car felt like it had Hella power UNTIL I went WOT.

Try running a compleely stock air box for one
pull s/c and clean all gasket mating surfaces
ensure no belt slip...check idler and pulley for dust
Run a manual bypass on s/c

if its hitting limp mode im betting its something to do with ur airbox

Dan

Try running a compleely stock air box for one
pull s/c and clean all gasket mating surfaces
ensure no belt slip...check idler and pulley for dust
Run a manual bypass on s/c

if its hitting limp mode im betting its something to do with ur airbox

Dan

1. I have a completely stock airbox....I had to remove the air-box mod because I was getting the LEAN code when I first got the s-4.

2. I've removed, tore apart, cleaned, inspected, re-assembled, and installed the sc 3 times now.

3. No belt slip.....no squeaks or black dust (have GM S-2 belt)

4. Ran a manual boost by-pass ... little to no difference