300hp..best way to get there?
300hp..best way to get there?
Good Evening All,
I'd like to eventually get 300hp...or get fairly close at the very least. In your opinion what is the best way to do this quickly, safely and still maintain daily driveablity and reliability? I know Intense has stage 5 which will give you 275hp and I'm thinking of getting this upgrade (For those of you that have this mod...what kind of gas mileage are you getting?). I all ready have a AAM 3" cat-back and now I'm just trying to figure out what mods to do next. Any and all help is appreciated and being relatively new to the performance upgrade scene please keep the flaming to a minimum. Thanks all.
~Matt
I'd like to eventually get 300hp...or get fairly close at the very least. In your opinion what is the best way to do this quickly, safely and still maintain daily driveablity and reliability? I know Intense has stage 5 which will give you 275hp and I'm thinking of getting this upgrade (For those of you that have this mod...what kind of gas mileage are you getting?). I all ready have a AAM 3" cat-back and now I'm just trying to figure out what mods to do next. Any and all help is appreciated and being relatively new to the performance upgrade scene please keep the flaming to a minimum. Thanks all.
~Matt
flame #1) run a search, move to step 2
flame #2) run a search, move to step 3
flame #3) rinse and repeat starting at flame #1
lol but seriously if this new stage 3 actually comes out that is what you will want. Safely and reliably getting to 300whp should be had by getting that if/when it comes out
flame #2) run a search, move to step 3
flame #3) rinse and repeat starting at flame #1
lol but seriously if this new stage 3 actually comes out that is what you will want. Safely and reliably getting to 300whp should be had by getting that if/when it comes out
if your going over 300hp you will want some engine work done but most of the parts are siad to be rated to 600hp. maybe someon can chime in and remind us which were those few parts that needed to be upgraded i believe the valve springs were one of em
Originally Posted by articzap
pistons
now our crank and rods are forged but our pistons are not.
they use a fancy name for what there called...they are as hard if not harder then a forged unit but more brittle as well.
for 300whp no "engine work" is needed.
all tho doing a valve train up-grade is a good idea becasue of the higher revs needed to make such power it puts out stockers close to valve "float"
i recomend my/a few others set up
a 2.5 and 60lb injecers.
now that alone WILL NOT GIVE 300WHP but with some serious tuneing its can do it.
HTH
Originally Posted by articzap
nitrous, twin charge, turbo, whipple twin screw
Are you serious? I don't think you are recommending ALL of those at once. The Twincharge would be a guaranteed way to get there.
The Intense Stage 4 should get you close to it, unless you mean 300hp at the wheels.
Then you replace the Valve springs with the Bates, and bump the Rev limiter to 7500. That won't help your top end horsepower much, but will give you a faster car.
Originally Posted by articzap
pistons
Originally Posted by articzap
pistons
oh cams are good for 400HP. want more need to change cams.
valve springs are needed to raise redline to 7500rpm. stock is good for 7000 rpm.
No internals unless you really want to.
60s, 2.5" pulley, HP Tuner, lots of cooling stuff (LFP HE, ice box, etc [this will allow you to add timing]), you already have an exhaust, header and downpipe with cat delete or hi-flo cat, axles, lightweight flywheel and clutch. Lots of time on the dyno for tuning and you should be there. Oh and ported s/c.
60s, 2.5" pulley, HP Tuner, lots of cooling stuff (LFP HE, ice box, etc [this will allow you to add timing]), you already have an exhaust, header and downpipe with cat delete or hi-flo cat, axles, lightweight flywheel and clutch. Lots of time on the dyno for tuning and you should be there. Oh and ported s/c.
Originally Posted by 05REDROCKET
Valve springs and rockers need to be replaced if you are going to rev it at more then 7000RPM but apparntly everything else is good to go untill 600HP.
as its looking right now all bolt ons will not give you 300 hp
2.5 pulley, intake, exhaust, header, hi flow cat, Gm stage 2 your only hitting around 270 whp (i know the car would fry guys! just saying)
then you can port blower, port throttlebody, 60 pound injectors, and hp tuners you may be close but still no....
heat exchanger in the front plus water injection and more tuning with 100 octane mabe....
your gonna have to go internal to get 300+ reliable whp pistons new valves, springs, retainers port and polish then you can rev to 8000 rpms
twincharge, turbo or spray is all i can say
2.5 pulley, intake, exhaust, header, hi flow cat, Gm stage 2 your only hitting around 270 whp (i know the car would fry guys! just saying)
then you can port blower, port throttlebody, 60 pound injectors, and hp tuners you may be close but still no....
heat exchanger in the front plus water injection and more tuning with 100 octane mabe....
your gonna have to go internal to get 300+ reliable whp pistons new valves, springs, retainers port and polish then you can rev to 8000 rpms

twincharge, turbo or spray is all i can say
Originally Posted by cvenom2122
and no advice from this guy
he is nuts!
(im like him thoe)


and ill FINALLY get to the dyno this weekend...to make 290+whp with stock exhaust - cat...thats the goal atleast
Dan
Originally Posted by djt81185
bwahahaa
and ill FINALLY get to the dyno this weekend...to make 290+whp with stock exhaust - cat...thats the goal atleast
Dan
and ill FINALLY get to the dyno this weekend...to make 290+whp with stock exhaust - cat...thats the goal atleast
Dan
Originally Posted by patathSS
Now if you could only convince the car to shift!!!! hahahaah
buy a mustang GT gets my vote. and if your thinking of hypereutectic, those pistons are not stronger than forged, they are ****. never use them if you can help it. the small extra cost of forged pistons is well worth the peace of mind.


