Hello again guys. I know there are tons of threads on turbo's, but none that give me the info I need. I have always been anti-turbo, and have loved superchargers. I absolutely HATE lag, I prefer instant response. However, I have been sitting and thinking alot this "off season" about which direction I want to go. Believe it or not, I AM actually kicking around the idea of a turbo. The reason for this, is I'm wanting big power, and everyone knows that you can get there with a turbo alot faster than with a supercharger. Not to mention, we don't have any help from vendors on blower swaps. All of my current mods are listed in my "garage", but I can list them if need be. What I need to know, is what all will I need, to convert to a turbo setup- and make 400+whp? I need advice on what kind of turbo's to look at, and what all I need to make it work properly. Obviously I want as little lag as possible. I need you guys who really know alot about turbo setups to help me out. Thanks in advance. :)

I would keep the blower and run a twin charge your super will accomidate for the turbo lag.

If you want power gt35r's i have heard are great

your going to want a front mount intercooler and a manifold the saab 93 has a manifold that will bolt upto the LSJ 2k5SS SC knows of a guy that makes good aftermarket manifolds for the saab 93 so I would shoot him a pm about it.

You also going to want to beef up your internals some and also may I ask what is your target horsepower?

well problem is that, one way or another, the size of a turbo, your gonna get really lil lag and not much power out of it or more lag and more power. everyone know the bigger the turbo, the more lag dut to thesize and pressure needed to get it spinning fast enough, but once it is, BOOM, power. well with a alil turbo u might have quick power with lil lag but your gonna just be spinning it with out gettin any more power out of it at a certain point. buddy explained this to me about his evo. so. its a compramise in lil lag less power, more lag alot more power. ur choice. i want to go full turbo once the kit comes out. lol by the way, wasted a GST eclipse today that had full exhaust. HAHA

I would keep the blower and run a twin charge your super will accomidate for the turbo lag.

If you want power gt35r's i have heard are great

your going to want a front mount intercooler and a manifold the saab 93 has a manifold that will bolt upto the LSJ 2k5SS SC knows of a guy that makes good aftermarket manifolds for the saab 93 so I would shoot him a pm about it.

You also going to want to beef up your internals some and also may I ask what is your target horsepower?

Is power he said is like around 400+ its in his post, and is the saab manifold direct bolt for us SS/SC guys?? or is there modification needed? and if so, liek wut?

Im sure you know about the new TVS model coming out soon from Eaton,IM wating to see the numbers these things put out,If its well over 300. Ill be going that route otherwise, GTO for me.

Traitor... get a Pro Charger. Its a belt driven turbo.
http://www.procharger.com/images/P-1SC.blower.jpg

Sorry i sorta overlooked the 400 part
Your going to need a
Cometic Headgasket
Diamond Pistons or Mahl (I would say mahl due to lower compression)
Arp or golden eagle head studs

yes the manifold is a direct bolt up the saab 9-3 runs the exact same engine with a turbo,

Now to bad06ss your going to need to draw a diagram of your engine and plan where your going to route your intercooler tubing where your going to mount it, and if you can get it in there with your bigger heat exchanger, you might also look to a side or top mount intercooler. then oil lines and a few other misc things

You should email hahn and ask whats included in their kit it will give you exactly what you need parts wise and then purchase it on your own.

You could also for best results take your stock header to a local machineshop or metal shop and ask them to turn it into a turbo manifold

i went to Hardcore motorsports jsut a few days ago, and asked them how much a custom turbo set up would be from them and they said like around 7000$. so im jsut gonna wait for a kit, or untill i can buy the parts i need. i could do it, i just need an intake manifold strong enought to hold high boost. and then a tune or a custom ecm made. im not to informed on what i need as of now, but if any one wants to give me and more info, its very appreciated. lol

Just wait for the Hahn Kit! It will be sick.

Thanks for the help so far, and I figured I'd get a "traitor" comment,lol. As mentioned, I'm thinking around ~400whp, and I DO plan to upgrade the internals for it. As for the intercooler, I'm actually thinking about just using the stock intercooler system, with the 2cnd heat exchanger, and just sourcing an adaptor to mate to the stock intake manifold. The GTP's have a turbo kit that just leaves the blower on there, and uses a block off plate, and they're getting great numbers from it! I'll have to sell some stuff off of my car, and will go with just a custom 3.5" exhaust. I do understand that with the power I'm wanting, there will be lag, oh well. Yes, I know about the TVS blowers coming out, but I still think that 400whp will be much easier reached via turbo. Keep the advice coming, thanks again guys. :)

Traitor... get a Pro Charger. Its a belt driven turbo.
http://www.procharger.com/images/P-1SC.blower.jpg

Hmmm. That might be interesting...

Why is everybody sweating over this TVS from Eaton, it is still a roots type blower, it just pushes out alittle more CFM, but it still wouldnt be near as good as a turbo....

Traitor... get a Pro Charger. Its a belt driven turbo.
http://www.procharger.com/images/P-1SC.blower.jpg

how could we install the procharger, custom intake manifold right?? lol. everything customs these days, jeeze.

Centrifugal S/C dont make there full boost until the end of the RPM range, my buddy drives a mustang and he doesnt make his full boost until about 5k and they redline at 6k I think, same thing for when I saw a diff mustang on the dyno.........

what about a procharger and a super?

honestly i dont know jack about prochargers

how could we install the procharger, custom intake manifold right?? lol. everything customs these days, jeeze.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h178/73gmc/RLforumspicture.jpg This is a picture from the RL forums. A used an LSJ intake manifold and just put the throttle body right on the manifold. Then your turbo your car and not need a FMIC :twothumbs

Have any of the Redlines gone turbo yet, from the looks of that intake I would assume soo.....

Look at the Borg Warner Turbos... they have a certain turbo that is consturcted differently.. literally eliminated turbo lag and its on the level with BIG turbos

check out the www.evowned.com forums and look up borg warner... they'll tell you everything

Have any of the Redlines gone turbo yet, from the looks of that intake I would assume soo.....
No that manifold was actually for a turbo'd solstice.

Garrett GT2971R is perfect for minimal lag and 350-400whp. It can be bought at ATP turbo with various housings to support your needs. I contacted and confirmed that with ATP turbo. The SR20DET guys use this turbo as a stealth upgrade because it looks identical to the regular "Disco Potato."

Garrett GT2971R is perfect for minimal lag and 350-400whp. It can be bought at ATP turbo with various housings to support your needs. I contacted and confirmed that with ATP turbo. The SR20DET guys use this turbo as a stealth upgrade because it looks identical to the regular "Disco Potato."
\

Just to be honest guys.. Just my opinion.. I don;t understand why you guys are going to turbos.. you all baught the SS/SC right.. so stayed supercharged.. if you want turbo go by an srt 4 or a honda.. .. I can see for the 2.2 guys.. and the 2.4s.. Just my opinion.. not throwing neg comments out..

well problem is that, one way or another, the size of a turbo, your gonna get really lil lag and not much power out of it or more lag and more power. everyone know the bigger the turbo, the more lag dut to thesize and pressure needed to get it spinning fast enough, but once it is, BOOM, power. well with a alil turbo u might have quick power with lil lag but your gonna just be spinning it with out gettin any more power out of it at a certain point. buddy explained this to me about his evo. so. its a compramise in lil lag less power, more lag alot more power. ur choice. i want to go full turbo once the kit comes out. lol by the way, wasted a GST eclipse today that had full exhaust. HAHA

I'm sorry but what you're describing is either not realistic or the person who is having that happen to him does not have a properly setup turbocharged system.

First and foremost...can we stop using this damn word... LAG!

I've come to find out that peoples interpretation of lag is purely opinion. The fact is, what you described as "boom, power" isn't realistic in most situations. Fact is, on a "realistic" turbocharged setup, the turbocharger is always spinning, even at idle. The thing is, it has to spin at a certain RPM to create X PSI.

The purpose of a good turbocharged setup is to have the most useable CFM throughout most of your powerband and not a small part of it. A very popular choice is a T3/T4 50 Trim turbocharger. This turbo is "bigger" but it is not something that will be something that you will see a huge delay in max psi. You SHOULD be able to spool this turbocharger to a realistic PSI amount in a good amount of time and have it support most of your RPM band. If you can reach max boost at 3000 RPMs, that'd be perfect because your redline is at 6500 or 7000 RPMs...even 6500 RPMs, that's 3500 RPMs of a strong power on an efficient compressor.

I just want people understand that Turbo lag is almost fiction if you aren't a complete idiot with your setup. The delay is all relative the amount of exhaust energy your engine is producing vs the size of turbine. The larger the turbine, the longer it will take to spin the mass (mass being the turbine).

Now to the original poster, like I said before, the T3/T4 50 Trim Turbocharger would be a good selection. It will be able to support your 400 HP perfectly fine. I'm not 100% sure on what they are rated at but it should be in that HP margin. If you are personally worried about "delay" of the turbocharger, you can do a number of things to improve your spool time:

1. Purchase that size but ball bearing. Those turbochargers spool very quickly.
2. Improve your valvetrain system. This could be done by purchasing a new profile camshaft and/or porting the exhaust ports on your cylinder head. If you do decide to port, you can also see if you can get your turbo manifolds ports to match up with the new size to make it more of an efficient exhaust flow (better flow of exhaust energy).
3. Get your turbo manifold coated. This will exhaust energy from leaving the manifold and going where you want that energy to go torwards...your turbine.

There are probably other ways but it's 2:11 AM CST and I'm tired & working lol.

If you have any further questions, feel free to ask.

\

Just to be honest guys.. Just my opinion.. I don;t understand why you guys are going to turbos.. you all baught the SS/SC right.. so stayed supercharged.. if you want turbo go by an srt 4 or a honda.. .. I can see for the 2.2 guys.. and the 2.4s.. Just my opinion.. not throwing neg comments out..

The answer is quite easy. The supercharger is only efficient to a certain amount of airflow. The easiest way to achieve more power/faster 1/4 mile is to twin or turbocharge.

I'm sorry but what you're describing is either not realistic or the person who is having that happen to him does not have a properly setup turbocharged system.

First and foremost...can we stop using this damn word... LAG!

I've come to find out that peoples interpretation of lag is purely opinion. The fact is, what you described as "boom, power" isn't realistic in most situations. Fact is, on a "realistic" turbocharged setup, the turbocharger is always spinning, even at idle. The thing is, it has to spin at a certain RPM to create X PSI.

The purpose of a good turbocharged setup is to have the most useable CFM throughout most of your powerband and not a small part of it. A very popular choice is a T3/T4 50 Trim turbocharger. This turbo is "bigger" but it is not something that will be something that you will see a huge delay in max psi. You SHOULD be able to spool this turbocharger to a realistic PSI amount in a good amount of time and have it support most of your RPM band. If you can reach max boost at 3000 RPMs, that'd be perfect because your redline is at 6500 or 7000 RPMs...even 6500 RPMs, that's 3500 RPMs of a strong power on an efficient compressor.

I just want people understand that Turbo lag is almost fiction if you aren't a complete idiot with your setup. The delay is all relative the amount of exhaust energy your engine is producing vs the size of turbine. The larger the turbine, the longer it will take to spin the mass (mass being the turbine).

Now to the original poster, like I said before, the T3/T4 50 Trim Turbocharger would be a good selection. It will be able to support your 400 HP perfectly fine. I'm not 100% sure on what they are rated at but it should be in that HP margin. If you are personally worried about "delay" of the turbocharger, you can do a number of things to improve your spool time:

1. Purchase that size but ball bearing. Those turbochargers spool very quickly.
2. Improve your valvetrain system. This could be done by purchasing a new profile camshaft and/or porting the exhaust ports on your cylinder head. If you do decide to port, you can also see if you can get your turbo manifolds ports to match up with the new size to make it more of an efficient exhaust flow (better flow of exhaust energy).
3. Get your turbo manifold coated. This will exhaust energy from leaving the manifold and going where you want that energy to go torwards...your turbine.

There are probably other ways but it's 2:11 AM CST and I'm tired & working lol.

If you have any further questions, feel free to ask.
The guy that told me a bunch of stuff, i met him at the Drift comp at auto speed way a few months back, he had adjustable cams, intake full exhaust and 3"in DP and his turbo was spinning at its fullest to soon, it, was creating boost very close to idle, he told me he needed to get a bigger turbo because it spooled up to quickly.I thought it odd, but is that possible? But thats where i got my information.

The guy that told me a bunch of stuff, i met him at the Drift comp at auto speed way a few months back, he had adjustable cams, intake full exhaust and 3"in DP and his turbo was spinning at its fullest to soon, it, was creating boost very close to idle, he told me he needed to get a bigger turbo because it spooled up to quickly.I thought it odd, but is that possible? But thats where i got my information.

Yes, that is possible and what some people do. Some people want their power (max power) to hit higher in the RPM band for traction reasons or just for reasons that they need more high end power than low end power. Remember, the larger the turbine, the slower it will spin...the slower it spins, the later in the RPM band your powerband will be.

Hopefully this makes sense. I'm tired lol

The answer is quite easy. The supercharger is only efficient to a certain amount of airflow. The easiest way to achieve more power/faster 1/4 mile is to twin or turbocharge.

I don't know about twin but i agree with the comment and turbocharging.

Garrett GT2971R is perfect for minimal lag and 350-400whp. It can be bought at ATP turbo with various housings to support your needs. I contacted and confirmed that with ATP turbo. The SR20DET guys use this turbo as a stealth upgrade because it looks identical to the regular "Disco Potato."


Thank you, and thank you to NJHK as well and everyone else. I'm interested in a ball-bearing turbo. I actually was looking at ATP turbo's site, is there such a thing as a dual ball bearing? I thought I saw somthing like that on there, but I know very little about turbo's. I"ll check into this GT2971R, and a 50 trim. Is ATP a good place to buy from? Thanks!

I'm sorry but what you're describing is either not realistic or the person who is having that happen to him does not have a properly setup turbocharged system.

First and foremost...can we stop using this damn word... LAG!

I've come to find out that peoples interpretation of lag is purely opinion. The fact is, what you described as "boom, power" isn't realistic in most situations. Fact is, on a "realistic" turbocharged setup, the turbocharger is always spinning, even at idle. The thing is, it has to spin at a certain RPM to create X PSI.

The purpose of a good turbocharged setup is to have the most useable CFM throughout most of your powerband and not a small part of it. A very popular choice is a T3/T4 50 Trim turbocharger. This turbo is "bigger" but it is not something that will be something that you will see a huge delay in max psi. You SHOULD be able to spool this turbocharger to a realistic PSI amount in a good amount of time and have it support most of your RPM band. If you can reach max boost at 3000 RPMs, that'd be perfect because your redline is at 6500 or 7000 RPMs...even 6500 RPMs, that's 3500 RPMs of a strong power on an efficient compressor.

I just want people understand that Turbo lag is almost fiction if you aren't a complete idiot with your setup. The delay is all relative the amount of exhaust energy your engine is producing vs the size of turbine. The larger the turbine, the longer it will take to spin the mass (mass being the turbine).

Now to the original poster, like I said before, the T3/T4 50 Trim Turbocharger would be a good selection. It will be able to support your 400 HP perfectly fine. I'm not 100% sure on what they are rated at but it should be in that HP margin. If you are personally worried about "delay" of the turbocharger, you can do a number of things to improve your spool time:

1. Purchase that size but ball bearing. Those turbochargers spool very quickly.
2. Improve your valvetrain system. This could be done by purchasing a new profile camshaft and/or porting the exhaust ports on your cylinder head. If you do decide to port, you can also see if you can get your turbo manifolds ports to match up with the new size to make it more of an efficient exhaust flow (better flow of exhaust energy).
3. Get your turbo manifold coated. This will exhaust energy from leaving the manifold and going where you want that energy to go torwards...your turbine.

There are probably other ways but it's 2:11 AM CST and I'm tired & working lol.

If you have any further questions, feel free to ask.


I always find myself agreeing with you.

Complementing the above post...the 50 trim is a good turbo...but personally I would take a GT30R over just about anything else. Spool time is reasonably fast while power can be near 500hp. Something else I'll add about LAG...let's say you use a GT40R with 18psi and pump gas. It doesn't make 80% boost until about 6000RPM's (reasonably on a stock LSJ). Well, your making 14.5 psi at 6k and probably producing close to 500hp. Does that mean that until you hit substantial boost that your lagging so much that you feel little or no acceleration at all prior to the turbo's maximum effeciency RPM? OF course not. Fact is..even though at 4000RPM's you were only producing .5 bar..you were still making 300+hp and probably something similar in torque...which means your car was STILL accelerating faster than it ever did with the M62...even half way through the power band. (This is just an example, I don't expect these numbers to be dead on accurate)

GT28RS, T3/T04E 50 Trim, GT30R, SC60-1/SC61, GT35R

These are the best turbo's for the street in my opinion, all of which make 300+whp.
Starting from left to right the turbo's get a little bigger each time. The first 3 are very nice turbo's for a solid running Balt...expect low 12's and some 11's as well when using these turbo's in their efficiency range. They usually make anywhere from 250whp(low boost) to 400+whp using almost 20psi in Honda's...so compare the differences. If I were you I would look into 2.0L built Honda turbo motors to do research and comparison to get a good iead what turbo's do what as far as dyno numbers (perhaps look into the H22 as well as the B20 motors)...those engines only revv around 8K or so when turbo'ed on the street..which is somewhat similar to the LSJ. Most of the strokes are 89mm, with usually a alittle smaller bore than the LSJ. Anyhow...the last two turbo's will give you a bit of lag...but produce way beyond 500whp. Something close to 600whp. Those turbo's are for the most serious of street cars and are personally not recommended just because the power is honestly beyond usability in MOST cases. You don't need a car that burns every gear but 5th out while gunnin' it down the highway.

The key is really getting a turbo that gives substantial power at medium boost (10-12psi) while not allowing so much low RPM boost response issues. The GTR ball bearing turbo's are best at reducing this "LAG" or boost response. So personally I would use the GT30R because you'll get about the same response as the GT28RS (probably something around 3800RPM to 4000RPM) before you hit some pretty good boost and yet it will make power easily to 7K+ RPM's. Easily. You could achieve a 3500RPM power band of 300+whp @ medium boost on a completely stock motor I think, if you use the GT30R. Hope this helps...

Thank you, and thank you to NJHK as well and everyone else. I'm interested in a ball-bearing turbo. I actually was looking at ATP turbo's site, is there such a thing as a dual ball bearing? I thought I saw somthing like that on there, but I know very little about turbo's. I"ll check into this GT2971R, and a 50 trim. Is ATP a good place to buy from? Thanks!

It's no problem.

ATP is a good place to buy from. I only bought one item from them but things went smoothly.

If you ever have any questions, just send me PM and I'll see what I can do.

If you want more of a listing of the parts you would need, I did a write up on "How To: Build your own ECOTEC Turbo Kit": http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35

Also, there is the Turbo FAQ we did: http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1024

I think there is a such thing as dual ball-bearing. I need to read more up on ball bearing turbochargers.

I always find myself agreeing with you.

That's cause great minds think alike ;)

The ground work we laid for our twincharged application we spec'd a Holset HX35W Internal Wastegated unit for our application. I worked out the efficiency charts for a 3.8" blower pulley and it puts the Holset right in its happy efficiency range. Hoping to make it work on the 60lbers if not fabbing a resistor harness to support up to 90lbers from siemens deka. I can keep you all updated as we move on with it. BTW Witt's car is getting all the work first. He has the most money lol.

Dan

It's no problem.

ATP is a good place to buy from. I only bought one item from them but things went smoothly.

If you ever have any questions, just send me PM and I'll see what I can do.

If you want more of a listing of the parts you would need, I did a write up on "How To: Build your own ECOTEC Turbo Kit": http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35

Also, there is the Turbo FAQ we did: http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1024

I think there is a such thing as dual ball-bearing. I need to read more up on ball bearing turbochargers.


+1 from what I've read on Adam's (right name right?) site they have tons of useful info there.

+1 from what I've read on Adam's (right name right?) site they have tons of useful info there.

Yes, Adam is correct. Dan, right?

And yes, we are trying to build a nice information base...kind of like an "ECOTEC library" and have as many write ups as possible.

You're welcome to join ;)

Sorry for getting off topic! More turbo talk!

Great posts! Thanks! You guys have been very informative. You're right, I don't want somthing that's literally not streetable. I'll take the advice you guys have given and do some research. :)

The ground work we laid for our twincharged application we spec'd a Holset HX35W Internal Wastegated unit for our application. I worked out the efficiency charts for a 3.8" blower pulley and it puts the Holset right in its happy efficiency range. Hoping to make it work on the 60lbers if not fabbing a resistor harness to support up to 90lbers from siemens deka. I can keep you all updated as we move on with it. BTW Witt's car is getting all the work first. He has the most money lol.

Dan

I'd like to hear more about this project...

Great posts! Thanks! You guys have been very informative. You're right, I don't want somthing that's literally not streetable. I'll take the advice you guys have given and do some research. :)

That's the best thing you can do, research. You don't want to get in over your head.

Just PM me if you have any questions as far as the write ups I made.

Good luck.

I'd like to hear more about this project...

Well we figured out what psi approx the blower is going to be running with the 3.8"(The reason for this size is to keep blower rpm down where its most efficient and rely more on turbo boost since the Holset likes/needs to boost to be efficient). From this converted it to an effective displacement figuring 2.0+(2.0*(PSI/14.7Atmospheric pressure)) for its displacement then calculated its airflow requirements. Not to mention we also calculated the ratio of air compresion for the blower since at each pulley size it compresses air by a ratio.

Having this info we determined the turbo needs to provide roughly 11-12 psi to the s/c to make 22psi manifold pressure. At this PR and airflow the turbo just clears the stall area and hit the heart of the efficiency range on the compressor map.

Were using the ebay ecotec turbo manifold. We will use the stock ss/sc liquid to air intercooler tho prob converted to dual pass. Were working on trying to figure out where to place the MAF...I want to do it outside teh turbo where the air isnt turbulent and use a bypass valve. Some people want it after teh turbo and run an atmospheric BOV.

The bov vacuum source will be off the lsj intake manifold tap to the boost controller and the stock ss/sc electronic bypass actuator line will be rerouted to the turbo wastegate so the car will still be using the stock ecu to control the turbo's boost (al's is an 06 so its all tq based tho...my 05 is boost based.)

Other possible problem is exceeding the stock cars 2.5 bar map sensor and the SCIP sensor seeing boost and possibly throwing a voltage too high code and commanding p0068 (limp mode). Other than that I don't really think it'll be that hard.

Dan

Well we figured out what psi approx the blower is going to be running with the 3.8"(The reason for this size is to keep blower rpm down where its most efficient and rely more on turbo boost since the Holset likes/needs to boost to be efficient). From this converted it to an effective displacement figuring 2.0+(2.0*(PSI/14.7Atmospheric pressure)) for its displacement then calculated its airflow requirements. Not to mention we also calculated the ratio of air compresion for the blower since at each pulley size it compresses air by a ratio.

Having this info we determined the turbo needs to provide roughly 11-12 psi to the s/c to make 22psi manifold pressure. At this PR and airflow the turbo just clears the stall area and hit the heart of the efficiency range on the compressor map.

Were using the ebay ecotec turbo manifold.
It'll be here tomorrow. Oh and 3.6" for the win.
We will use the stock ss/sc liquid to air intercooler tho prob converted to dual pass. Were working on trying to figure out where to place the MAF...I want to do it outside teh turbo where the air isnt turbulent and use a bypass valve.
Some people want it after teh turbo and run an atmospheric BOV. I'm still undecided on this.

The bov vacuum source will be off the lsj intake manifold tap to the boost controller and the stock ss/sc electronic bypass actuator line will be rerouted to the turbo wastegate so the car will still be using the stock ecu to control the turbo's boost (al's is an 06 so its all tq based tho...my 05 is boost based.)
I think you have me talked into backdating my PCM assuming I could change it to any year if I wanted to.

Other possible problem is exceeding the stock cars 2.5 bar map sensor and the SCIP sensor seeing boost and possibly throwing a voltage too high code and commanding p0068 (limp mode). Other than that I don't really think it'll be that hard.

I think I can rescale the MAP to a 3 bar using a method the j-body guys do. I'll let you know more as I figure it out. SCIP I have faith in my car not going into limp mode. I found another DTC that states SCIP isn't used in fueling measurements, more on that later.

Interesting. Looks like you guys did your home work :)

Yes, that is possible and what some people do. Some people want their power (max power) to hit higher in the RPM band for traction reasons or just for reasons that they need more high end power than low end power. Remember, the larger the turbine, the slower it will spin...the slower it spins, the later in the RPM band your powerband will be.

Hopefully this makes sense. I'm tired lol

this is true, but you can also overspin the turbo if its not big enough.

Thank you, and thank you to NJHK as well and everyone else. I'm interested in a ball-bearing turbo. I actually was looking at ATP turbo's site, is there such a thing as a dual ball bearing? I thought I saw somthing like that on there, but I know very little about turbo's. I"ll check into this GT2971R, and a 50 trim. Is ATP a good place to buy from? Thanks!

Sorry, I made a typo, it's the Garrett GT2871R. You are also looking for the .63 A/R too for more info. The GT30R will take too long too spool since you're not a fan of lag. The GT2871R has the fastest spool times of the turbos in it's series, and it will pump 350-400whp. ATP Turbo supports the SRT-4 Forums big time, and they have some awesome pieces/adapters you can't find anywhere else from what I've seen. They have great customer serivce too from dealing with them via e-mail. :cssNET:

this is true, but you can also overspin the turbo if its not big enough.

Of course but this is why god invented wastegates and common sense ;)