Ok guys im trying to research the methonal kit from Snow and looking for some results from dual pass intercooler mods

I have heard mixed feelings on the meth kit, and also on the Dual pass intercooler

The meth kit will lower temps and possibly make more power

vs
the dual pass that will lower temps


My main concern is what is the most effective to cool the engine safely

Thanks

I think the dual pass while a pain in the ass would be the better way to go. Reasons?
1. Water/Meth = $400+
2. Dual Pass IC Mod = Some labor and about $30 in parts
3. You have to constantly refill the water/meth kit where once you do the IC mod you don't have to do anything with it.
4. Say you have water/meth injection you can run WAY more timing, BUT say in the middle of a run the pump fails or the line blows. Your IAT2 will sky rocket and you will get MASSIVE knock and possibly more than your car can compensate for and, POP goes your piston(s). The intercooler won't fail, so you don't have anything to worry about.

BUT you will make more power w/ the W/M injection b/c the methanol acts as a high octain fuel, why not go w/ both?

I think by popular suggestion im going to go dual pass, i just need a photo of a finished one so i can figure out howto do it :)

Never honestly though of both, I have alot on my plate now as it is. I think I will look into it a little more next week

Do both but do the dual pass now cause its easier to get the cover plate and tubes out while the intake is out of the car.

Thats my plan i just need some pictures to figure out what im doing
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if any1 has pics please email me at bdwarr6@gmail.com im going to do it tommorrow

also what parts do i need to pickyp

I havent seen pics here but look on red line and youll find them just do a search. You need a elbow is it but I syggest you have it welded in so you dont have to worry about it leaking cause the casting is pretty thin.

so drill a hle and add a fiting, what size did you use and what all parts were required?

also how big was your hole

and where did u run the hose to that comes off the extra port?

2k5 check my gallery im uploading them for you

ok since im tired and cant honestly think right now where is the intercooler pump?

isnt it under the manifold held in the circle bracket?

isnt it under the manifold held in the circle bracket?

Yes sir

cool even tired i got it right i think im learning this motor like i used to know my 420a

just hope i dont start talking about it in my sleep....

Good Thread!!

I was going to do all 3 (CA Heat Exchanger, Dual Pass, Meth inj.) But I was going to start with Meth.

Will the IC pump be enough for the dual pass?

I assume so ive seen it done 5 or 6 times no complaints

I will definatly make a howto for this, as its a cheap mod that produces good results

Besure to take the intake manifold off and switch the top 2 cores like in the image above. They are directional.


It should be but if not JBP has a higher flowing pump, not sure if they will sell it without the rest of their "4 pass" IC setup.

what do you mean switch the top 2 cores, also do you have a link to the jbp 4 pass?

Bdwarr06, thanks for the pictures. A how-to would be great, as I figured out how to assemble the deal, but I'm still a little confused.

I can't wait to get home to try this out. Man I love DIY mods! :twothumbs

i got it now, had to sit back and think for a minute, dam this is going to be easy since i have it all out already

Bdwarr06, thanks for the pictures. A how-to would be great, as I figured out how to assemble the deal, but I'm still a little confused.

I can't wait to get home to try this out. Man I love DIY mods! :twothumbs
Honestly it is a PITA. First you have to remove the Intake manifold. Even GM mechanics guide fails to mention the 2 bolts hidden under the Manifold that require you to remove the entire IC bracket to reach. I suggest removing the pump from the cradle to gain easier acess to the top 2 bolts on the IC bracket.

We slowly drilled the hole in small increments up to the recommended size for the 1/2" NPT tap. Unfortunatly the end plate is so thin that it doesn't give enough threads to properly seal. That is when Blown 4-banger took the end plate to a shop and had it TIG welded in the proper position. BTW the end plate cost $190 from the dealership, so don't get too rough with it.

mine is already out laying on the garage floor :)

i have a mig welder

i got it now, had to sit back and think for a minute, dam this is going to be easy since i have it all out already
Be careful because the AC lines are in the way of the 90 elbow aswell as the oil filter canister. I would recommend getting some soft jaw covers for your pliers or some smooth jaw pliers to prevent marring the ends of the cores when you pull them out. They are a little difficult, but they are only held in by O rings.

mine is already out laying on the garage floor :)

i have a mig welder
MIG won't weld aluminum. Sorry.

Honestly it is a PITA. First you have to remove the Intake manifold. Even GM mechanics guide fails to mention the 2 bolts hidden under the Manifold that require you to remove the entire IC bracket to reach. I suggest removing the pump from the cradle to gain easier acess to the top 2 bolts on the IC bracket.

We slowly drilled the hole in small increments up to the recommended size for the 1/2" NPT tap. Unfortunatly the end plate is so thin that it doesn't give enough threads to properly seal. That is when Blown 4-banger took the end plate to a shop and had it TIG welded in the proper position. BTW the end plate cost $190 from the dealership, so don't get too rough with it.

I'll take this project over the headgasket replacement I did any day! :lol: Plus, it'll benefit my car greatly being in Charleston 100+ degree weather in the summer time. Can someone make a flow diagram (with paint or something as it doesn't have to be too detailed) and post it? I think that would help us all out getting a idea of how it works.

damit

its not my welder and i dont know howto weld so dont hold it against me

would jb weld work?

damit

its not my welder and i dont know howto weld so dont hold it against me

would jb weld work?
Possibly, but it will not expand and contract like the aluminum and could spring a leak since it dries hard. Aluminum is hard to bond to since it is a "dirty" metal. Ask any welder. It only cost Blown 4-banger about $30 to have it welded by a pro.

what is a good place to get it welded and big name places onestly dont know of any welding shops here localy

what is a good place to get it welded and big name places onestly dont know of any welding shops here localy
I don't know if there are any big national names in welding companies. You can always look up welders in the phone book and ask if they do TIG. Typically the aviation welders are the best. You might also look at custom radiator shops. They do good work aswell, that is who did Blown 4-bangers.

i work at the airport so thats perfect!

Sweet deal, that flow path answers all my questions. 2 inlets and 1 outlet on the endpiece, and the "Y" fitting off the pump to meet up with the two inlets. Easy day.

Now where can I source the 3/4 90degree barb? Is it an Earl's fitting?

so correct me if im wrong you just adding in another lne from the pump to the intercooler correct?

just wanting to double check

Sweet deal, that flow path answers all my questions. 2 inlets and 1 outlet on the endpiece, and the "Y" fitting off the pump to meet up with the two inlets. Easy day.

Now where can I source the 3/4 90degree barb? Is it an Earl's fitting?
Yep, I got Earl's fittings. All though, you have to get a 90 1/2 NPT and a 3/4 hose barb and put them together, they don't have it in a single piece.

what part do i need to pickup to stick int he intercooler actually will this one work?

http://www.holley.com/993304ERL.asp

Stupid question, but here it goes. If the orginal setup runs through the first set of tubes then turns and runs through the second set of tubes and then leaves, how does splitting the liquid into two paths and only running them through one set of tubes make the coolant cooler? Am I missing something here?

EDIT: Nevermind, I answered my own question after doing a bunch of research.

Ok, I used a 90 degree NPT to AN fitting like this http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/ear-982208.jpg
Then used a female AN to hosebarb fitting.

Meth is amazing. I run 26-27 deg timing advance w/ a 2.5" and after multiple WOT 140mph runs the blower is sweating and cold to the touch. IAT2's hover at 160deg period

I have logs around here somewhere

i picked up the parts $80 for them all they had was a dam NOS brand Y fitting which was $53 i call it my flux capacitor

Thats why I did a T fitting, the (metal) Y fittings are impossible to find. A also like the idea of using a T because it creates a little back pressure to keep the pump from being pushed too hard.

Meth is amazing. I run 26-27 deg timing advance w/ a 2.5" and after multiple WOT 140mph runs the blower is sweating and cold to the touch. IAT2's hover at 160deg period

I have logs around here somewhere
160!?!? Thats pretty hot! So far people with the dual pass IC mod say their IAT2 rarly get above 130 even on hard runs. I wouldn't know mine because I don't have a scan gauge.

160!?!? Thats pretty hot! So far people with the dual pass IC mod say their IAT2 rarly get above 130 even on hard runs. I wouldn't know mine because I don't have a scan gauge.


That was on the fourth 0-140 run back to back... temperature rise per run is under 10 degrees

:D I officially retract my previous statement...

ok i checked another log...started at 11 mph in 2nd gear iat2 started at 124..dipped to 109 and at 125 mph the iat2 was 147 iat1 stayed inbetween 55 and 57 degrees the whole time.

That run was 25 deg timing advance at 125 mph for some reason my rpm didnt log that run and I had 1 hit of KR at the top of 4th (125 mph)

What other cooling mods do you have (HE, resevior tank etc.)?

What other cooling mods do you have (HE, resevior tank etc.)?

I have run a resivoir before but I had nothing at the time.

So my cooling mods where meth injection and like 80% water 20% dexcool

And you weren't worried about the water/meth system failing for some odd reason during one of those runs? That possiblity of failure is the reason I decided to go with a HE and the dual pass IC mod.

And you weren't worried about the water/meth system failing for some odd reason during one of those runs? That possiblity of failure is the reason I decided to go with a HE and the dual pass IC mod.

Nope this is my 20K+ a yr daily driver. I check the fluid everyday. The failure rate on the pumps they use is virtually nill and the progressive devilsown controller has a fault indicator built in. I'f your really worried u can get a flow indicator switch. Also the car only runs crazy timing under WOT and if I ran out it would revert to the stock low octane table. On the highway including palying with some cars I go thru less than 1 redline's windshield washer tank per tank of gas

Dan

Where do you get the methanol from?

Wal*Mart -20 Super Tech Windshield Washer Fluid

Hmmm. I guess someone thought all my pictures and comments didn't belong in here. So much for trying to help people out.

The main difference between the systems is with dual pass you will only increase the efficiency of the intercooler which is limited to its size and pump flow rate. With the meth/water kit not only do you remove heat from the charged air, but also from the cumbustion chamber.

"Once the charge enters the cylinder, water in the induction charge following the exit of the super heated exhaust gases (1500+ degrees) begins to immediately cool the surfaces within the cylinder including the cylinder walls, piston head, combustion chamber, valves and spark plug tip. This cooling will have its most dramatic effect on any possible hot spots the coolant system has not adequately addressed. Surface temperatures will be significantly reduced by the water even more so than the extra fuel that was previously being used to cool the cylinder surfaces."
Copyright © 2003 J. Edison Haney II

I would also recommend spraying the meth/water after compression as most heat is generated after the SC.

With the kit installed I have seen temperature drops of approx. 20*F from 160 to 140*F. Plus there is the added bonus of running 24-26* timing without knock.

The kit I purchased comes with a light which turns on when the pump is activated, so I know if somethings not working.